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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: spyder0069 on January 15, 2008, 04:55:48 PM
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I have been fixing up my sidekick I just bought and I just installed a new cat (didn't have one), resonator, and muffler. Spent the time to weld it together and put in hangers to find a leak between the manifold and the Y pipe that goes to the cat. The previous owner had drilled out and put in helicoils and some bolts were loose. I pulled it apart and there were two gaskets that were inbetween the flanges. One was a paper style with metal rings and one was a metal gasket. I used copper RTV between all surfaces and mounted everything together with new hardened bolts and gave the rtv a day to dry. Well it was nice and quiet for a days worth of driving but now the leak is back. Its between the two rear bolts on the flange. I know things are cranked down tight so I assume something isn't flush and it blew the RTV out. Is that all that is supposed to be between these two parts is the two flat gaskets? Before I started this project I went to autozone and asked if they had a replacement gasket but they brought out a circular metal flange gasket. Any ideas?
It really sucks to have spent the time and then be stuck on this last part.
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Lucky you!
I just posted the engine section of the '96 Tracker FSM at Ack's FAQ. While it may not be exactly the same as your Sidekick (it deals with a 16-valve engine), you should find the information useful.
http://www.acksfaq.com/trackerfsm.php (http://www.acksfaq.com/trackerfsm.php)
Look for Section 6A1.
By the way, check your exhaust manifold (I assume that it is OEM) for cracks or warpage. This might be contributing to your problems
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It sound like you have a warped flange and the previous owner has already tried to fix it. There should only be one gasket between the two flanges.
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Thanks for the link. I may try to pull it apart and remove the metal gasket and see what happens. I have a feeling that it may be warped. So my next question is if I pull the manifold off and remove my downtube before the cat and try to weld the downtube to the manifold will that work? I guess the question is if the manifold is made of metal that will take a weld? Or do you think that the vibration will just brake it loose after a while? I am trying to low budget it as I already have more invested in aftermarket parts than the $1000 I paid for the 1992 vehicle. :^) I have seen new manifolds on ebay for $70 and downtubes for $30 so if I had to I could go that route. Is it safe to say that rtv does nothing in this situation as even their copper series rated at 700F doesn't seem to handle the heat?
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RTV on any part of an exhaust system is an exercise in futility. It is possible to weld a cast iron manifold, needs to be done by a pro, with a high nickle content wire. By the time you get done repairing everything, you could probably throw a header on in it's place for about the same cost and be done with it.
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I delt with this problem twice, the first time I spent $130 having the surfaces machined flat and new threads for the O2 sensor, after it was done there was still a crack forming on the inside webbing, the second time I bought a Doug Thoreghly Header. Buy a header, save yourself the headaches. and more power ;) besides I was tired of carrying a wrench around to keep tightening it, and bloody civics kept trying to race me at every stop light.
as a note, a tracer with open headers sounds like a P-51 around town, well more like a Piper Cub.
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I looked real hard tonight deciding if I was going to rig it or not. THen found a crack on the original manifold that is on the front cylinder tube. No exhaust was coming out of it but I figure if I am going to go through the hassle of pulling the manifold I am not going to put a cracked one back on. So I ordered a header through RRO. My TSL 31/10.5/15's and rims are scheduled to arrive tomorow so maybe the header will make the change from 235's less noticable power wise. I guess there is a point where you can't explain/reason where the money went anymore. :laugh: I am there.