ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: big_kountry21 on February 06, 2008, 09:36:10 AM
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ok i bought a new alternator and a new battery and now it's completely dead...... help?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
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Could be the moter?
(http://www.floundergigging.com/images/001-SuzukiSamurai1994/080202-SammyBch/080202sammy02.jpg)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Samurai-SPOA-Little-Bigfoot-Garage-kept-Monster-Truck_W0QQitemZ110220441390QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6468QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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its not getting electric
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If you can be more specific about your problem it might be easier for us to help. Lets say that you are not getting any lights to turn on at all. Have you checked the ground wires and all the connections at the underhood fuse box? Use a test light and check for power at the fuse box and at the back of the alternator. Start with the easy stuff and let us know.
Derek
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Check the main ground for corrosion or bad/ loose connection. But I agree. Start from the beginning and let know what happened!
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kk here's what i've done so far..... changed alternator, battery, top post terminals. cut and restripped + and - cleaned the terminals and posts with the wire cleaner. checked the conection to the starter and alternator. and thats as far as i've gotten.
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What's actually dead, the battery, the motor... what's the actual problem vs. what you've done to fix it.
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its the bat. draining to the point it wont light up the clock.
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Hook up a small bulb (taillight etc) between the negative battery post and the negative battery terminal. If you have a drain the bulb will light up. Next step is to start pulling fuses to isolate which circuit is causing the draw. Start with the underhood fuse box and then move on to the inside fuse box. The bulb will go out when you pull the fuse of the bad circuit. A wiring diagram will help so you can see what components are on the circuit once you find it.Obviously you want the battery to be charged up before doing this and the car turned off. Let us know.....
Derek
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kk i'll try that. i just got a brand new bat yesterday
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Hook up a small bulb (taillight etc) between the negative battery post and the negative battery terminal. If you have a drain the bulb will light up. Next step is to start pulling fuses to isolate which circuit is causing the draw. Start with the underhood fuse box and then move on to the inside fuse box. The bulb will go out when you pull the fuse of the bad circuit. A wiring diagram will help so you can see what components are on the circuit once you find it.Obviously you want the battery to be charged up before doing this and the car turned off. Let us know.....
Derek
It's responses like this that set this forum apart. Excellent.
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i know ..... i glad that there are guys with the experience enough to help
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yes a wiring diagram would be good cause after you find out what circuit is causing the draw. You then must find out every component on that circuit. Then the fun of disconnecting components the same way to find out which one it is. Electrical is so much fun!
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since you like electrical sooo much you can come do it..lol. i am about as bad at electrical as bush is being pres.
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its the bat. draining to the point it wont light up the clock.
How long does it take to kill the bat? Overnight?
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yeah about that long
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I'll take another approach. How do you know the new alternator is good or that the wiring to it is functioning? Charge the batt with a battery charge and check the voltage with a voltmeter. Then start vehicle and check battery voltage. Should be higher. Or just turn on your headlights with vehicle running and then shut vehicle off. If headlights dim then the alternator is working. If you shut the key off and the lights stay the same brightness then the problem is with the alternator or alternator wiring.
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I'll take another approach. How do you know the new alternator is good or that the wiring to it is functioning? Charge the batt with a battery charge and check the voltage with a voltmeter. Then start vehicle and check battery voltage. Should be higher. Or just turn on your headlights with vehicle running and then shut vehicle off. If headlights dim then the alternator is working. If you shut the key off and the lights stay the same brightness then the problem is with the alternator or alternator wiring.
Ok thats fine but it doesn't solve his battery dying overnight!
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i've replace the wiring to the starter and alternator and the grounds throughout the rig..... i've had the alternator tested twice.
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One way to tell if the alternator is running is with a volt meter. When your vehicle is running your battery should show around 14V, when it is stopped 12.
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i've taken it to 2 different parts stores and had it tested
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I would not worry about the alternator right now! The problem obviously is the fact that it is going dead. Just make sure that there is nothing left on fiirst. Then if you find nothing you have to start a process of elimination. Like derekj said earlier you need to disconnect the negative of the bat. Hook something between the bat post and cable end. He suggested a light bulb. I suggest a multimeter of some sorts so you can see exactly how much amperage draw you have. Then you need to start pulling fuses for different circuits and find out which circuit has the draw. This is where a wiring diagram comes into play. Once you figure out what circuit it is. You need to disconnect the different components on that circuit one by one to find out what is the culprit. It not as complicated as it sounds, as long as you have access to the proper resources. Let me know how you make out! If any probs or questions just ask. Myself and I'm sure anyone else will do our best to help out.
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thus far since the new batt yesterday its doing ok..... i've been disconnecting at nite til i can get a w diagram
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Yeah dude thats all you can really do. Good luck with it. Elecrtical can be a pain in the ass. Let me know how you make out!
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i'm inches away from rippong every wire out and starting over ....... i got the rock crawler gut as a guide..... thats what hes good at is electrical.... its just a bitch to get him to work on anyone elses shit.
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Be patient. Some times it can be the simplest thing.
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i had a guy the other day say" it'll be the last thing you check." i was like duh. why would i keep looking after i figure out whats wrong with it?
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I had a power leak in an after market 12v power plug. Put it on a relay, problem solved. :)
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i'm gettin the schmatic tomorrow
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it is possible to have a bad voltage regulator which will discharge the battery. I have had 2 GM alternators that did this. They both charged the battery normally and therefore will bench test "normal". The problem was that the diodes (that allow DC curent only) failed and they were causing a discharge.
My dad and I found this by doing the same test with an idiot light on the neg terminal. we then disconnected the alternator. kight went out. problem solved. even a "new" alternator could be bad... that's why they come with a warranty. ;)
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Instead of using a light bulb or meter, I like to use a buzzer. You can get one at Auto Zone. I think they have them that you can plug into your rear lights for a backup buzzer.
Anyway, disonect the battery and place the buzzer between the batt and cable. If there is a draw the buzzer will sound. Now you can crawl all over the truck disconnecting and pulling fuses without haveing to look at the light or meter every time.
When you find the right one the buzzer will stop sounding.
Eric
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i was told it has an external regulater
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The clock and ECU will both draw power when the engine is off, you will have to disconnect them for this test.
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The obvious problem is a draw. Judt how big and where? Thats why you need a meter.
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how muich is a meter?
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You can get just a cheap on for prob 20-30 bucks. You don't know anyone with one?
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no i dont know anyone with one