ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: daddyizzle on February 17, 2008, 08:41:10 AM
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The body on my Samurai is almost rust free. Just some rust dripping from the hinges and a small spot at the lower back corner below the body seam. I'm debating on taking it to Maaco for all work, doing the prep work first and taking it, or doing it all. I have some oilbased paint (ppg, tractor supply implement and others + some xim primer) I could brush it on to cut down on the over spray since I'm an expert with a brush or do it with my compressor and Gravity gun (tractor supply). My wife got pissed when I rattle canned my rims because the paint fumes were around for a day and gave her a headache.
:( :( Man I was High ??? :-\ :police:
I'm trying to stretch some dollars so I can afford some lift leaf springs and h.d. bumpers maybe. 8) 8)
O.k. now the questions.
If I oilbase it and want to do a professional job later, will the oil base pose an adhesion problem?
Will I have problems with fading, peeling, etc. with implement or ppg paint?
I don't have a paint booth so spraying would pose a problem anyways or would it?
What has worked for people on this forum?
-Adam ;D
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I had a Mustang I brought to Maaco and the paint came out great. I then smacked the front end and had it repainted at the same shop and it was all orange peeled(looked like the peel of an orange). Iguess it depends on the guy spraying. I really can't complain it was only $200. each time.
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rattle can is my friend.... lol
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depends on the paint you buy, i get the paint from parts plus.... took a compressor, and my pops spray gun, turned out pretty nice i might add....... even with the black that is heard to be so hard to paint!
i did it in my garage, and before it was done outside in front of my pops storage unit....
the orange peel is know as 'fisheye' and it is from wax, oil, grease, or other materials not allowing it to adhere....
i'm gonna be repainting it this summer... u want a day with warm sun, and no breeze... other than that, make sure you get a good primer, and lay it on thin, but multiple coats, and sand with a very fine paper between coats... should take about 3 hrs for a really nice paint job! good luck,
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I've heard of people using a roller method with acrillic (SP?)
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IF YOU WANT TO GET A PROFESIONAL JOB LATTER DONT USE THE OILBASE unlessyou are talking much latter you can have fish eye problems which are different than orange peel (also stay away from rustolem type rattle cans they also cause fish eyes )& if you think the spray can smell lingered ...
farm inplement paint fads pretty fast by itself you can get a hardner additive that makes the shine hold out longer
paint work is only as good as the prep work you gotta make sure all grease & wax is gone and its sanded good with (final sanding b-4 paint )at least 220 grit or finer
a good thing to remember is if you can feel it with your hand youl see it latter (dents & feathered edges)
Ive had decent paint from maacobut that was a long time ago (when I worked for them)
I do this for a living so take it for what its worth
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Spitfire,
Do you know what the military is using now a days for painting battle equipment? I heard they are using water based flat paints.
Thanks
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I had a guy paint my Scout using Rustoleum thined with mineral spirits. He rolled on 4 coats and wet sanded between. He did it in his driveway with his friend. Turned out way better than I thaught. Looked like a million bucks from a few feet away.
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i'm a u.s. army mechanic and believe it or not we use krylon ultraflat camo rattle can.
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I had a guy paint my Scout using Rustoleum thined with mineral spirits. He rolled on 4 coats and wet sanded between. He did it in his driveway with his friend. Turned out way better than I thaught. Looked like a million bucks from a few feet away.
I did that with a scout once. I used rustoleum hammertone, and i loved it, considering the truck wasn't perfect to start with.
I've considered doing something similar with my sidekick, as the paint is getting so worn out from pinstripes, gouges, and dented panels.
I've gone the Maaco route on my first car (RX7), and it turned out very nice for $300-400, whatever it was back then. I painted it to sell it for more money and it worked. Some maaco's have weird pricing now. They want $500 to repaint front and rear bumpers on my wife's Infiniti QX4, but if i told them to do the whole car, it would probably be $500.
I'd say do the rattle can thing if you want to be able to touch it up easier later, or if you want to keep it cheap. This is great for the camo paint job.
I recommend rolling on rustoleum, but i used the textured hammertone finish which really concealed a lot of problems in the metal work. I used less than a gallon on a full size Scout. I primed it all properly first though so that the thing wouldn't rust. I don't know what a straight non-textured color would look like if rolled on.
Geez, I feel like i've just talked myself into going to home depot and looking at hammertone colors again...
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I just want it to look like a good shop job shiny and glossy but for under $30.00. If I was going the camo route, I would definitely go rattle can. I could go rattle can for the look I want but it would be pricey and I don't think the finish is very hard. At least with ppg oil base, the paint is pretty darn hard. Harder than tractor supply. Barox is good but pricey.
I think I'll go by Maaco and snoop around to see what their work looks like. I don't mind coughing up a grand and getting a nice long lasting job but I don't want to do it if it's going to look like crap. Time is a consideration too. If I can pay a grand and get it done right and quick, I guess it would beat spending a few weekends or more fighting it. I would have to wait a month or two till I have an extra grand. At some point I want to sell it and get a 4 door early sidekick since they look so awesome.
Then again. I was looking for an economy paint job.:-\ I'm just sick of the ugly yellow job.
-Adam ;D
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I did my Tracker last year with Rustoleum rattle cans. It turned out pretty well. As someone else said, its all in the prep. Take as much stuff off the truck as you can, marker lights tail lights, mirrors, bumper covers, top... everything that will come off. Roll the side windows down and pull the weatherstrip out of the channel so you only have to tape the last inch or so. Thoroughly wet sand the whole body with 400 grit "wet-or-dry" and wash it down thououghly with plain water. Dry with a clean lint free cloth, tape it up, and spray it.
The trick is to use the spray can just like you would use a gun, and not go too heavy (runs) or too light (rough surface). The Tracker took 4 cans, the trailer took 3. We sprayed it out on the driveway in the cool of the evening. Don't spray hot metal.
Rustoleum is not good if you intend to get a "good" paintjob sometime in the near future. I just wanted something that would look good from 8 feet away and could be easily touched up after running the trails. (Keep a few extra cans on hand...)
Total cost was under $30 (paint, sandpaper, tape)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24/jzap/P7040808.jpg)
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hey jzap
got close ups?
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my camo trak is krylon rattle can and it is great i can scrape down the side of tree limbs go home and rattle can the scratches away. lol
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([url]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24/jzap/P7040808.jpg[/url])
That looks good. But if I rattle can it, I want to get either something that dries hard and possible is compatible with automotive finishes. I think...
The paint that's on mine is rattle can and it scratches so easy. And when it does scratch, it goes all the way through to the primer. Maybe I could rattle can it and then put some uv polyurethane or something.
You got me thinking though. Maybe you can post the close ups???
-Adam
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i'm gonna go with rattle can bed liner on mine.
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Is there a rattle can clear-coat that could protect the paint?
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Is there a rattle can clear-coat that could protect the paint?
I grew up in the 60's, before anyone ever heard of clearcoat. If you go with a high gloss enamel, you really don't need a clearcoat, and it will eventually harden up pretty well. But, yes, there are rattle can clear coats.
I don't have any really close up pics, but here's another angle.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24/jzap/P7040809.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24/jzap/P7040807.jpg)
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can you take a new shot?
(how long ago did you take those pics?)
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can you take a new shot?
(how long ago did you take those pics?)
Unfortunately, my Canon has suffered the infamous and fatal "E18 Error", and its not working. Those pictures were taken last June. I finished painting the trailer and the Tracker a couple weeks before Zukimelt.
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can you take a new shot?
(how long ago did you take those pics?)
Unfortunately, my Canon has suffered the infamous and fatal "E18 Error", and its not working. Those pictures were taken last June. I finished painting the trailer and the Tracker a couple weeks before Zukimelt.
ah... no worries then
paint looks pretty shiny in the pic