ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: TrakJD on February 22, 2008, 08:49:04 AM
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Ive searched and tried many different methods.....
Pulled fuses until the light dims.... Nothing worked. Unless Im doing it wrong.
Checked the Fusible link wire, it blew a long time ago, replaced it with heavy duty wire. And the alternator cords looks fine. Checked for the corroded wires.
Could any open end wires contribute to this "draining"?
Ive recharged my battery so many times to find the problem. Alternator is fine. Had it tested twice at different places to make sure its definitely working. Its a rebuilt unit. I even borrowed my friend's alternator. Still the same result. So I know the alternator is ok. I also tested the battery cord to alternator, on the battery charger, it says that the alternator is no good, so Im assuming its the wire somewhere between the battery to alternator? Could a loose pulley be a factor? Old belt?
When the battery is fully charged, its at 14.2V As the track is being run. Its at 12.53V with no accessories being on. With the head light on it goes down to 12.20 then slowly goes down to 11.9 that's when the tracker starts to act like its wanting to die. and the Tachometer acts weird.
Am I overlooking something?
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dude i've got a 96 trak and i'm dealing with the same crap....... i've been un hooking my battery.
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Yeah, my battery is unhooked right now. It drains faster when its being warmed up and all. By the time im done warming up, its dies.
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Maybe the belt is too slack, and slipping on the alt? Check the slack, maybe tighten it up?
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To check to make sure the battery is not the problem(causing an excessive load), Start and run the truck and unhook the positive lead from the battery, and place it in a safe spot so it won't touch anything. Your truck will stay running so long as the alternator is good. Try your lights, and other acc's, then report back what happens.
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yeah thats a good idea.
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To check to make sure the battery is not the problem(causing an excessive load), Start and run the truck and unhook the positive lead from the battery, and place it in a safe spot so it won't touch anything. Your truck will stay running so long as the alternator is good. Try your lights, and other acc's, then report back what happens.
I just tried that method. It dies everytime I pull the positive off. Would that pinpoint the problem? I also noticed that the seatbelt fastener light came on once in awhile when I turned the headlight on. sound like a wire is touching a wire somewhere.... when I moved the seatbelt holster, it went away. Ill be checking that later when I get home from work.
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your alternator may be testing ok but what about your regulator.
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To check to make sure the battery is not the problem(causing an excessive load), Start and run the truck and unhook the positive lead from the battery, and place it in a safe spot so it won't touch anything. Your truck will stay running so long as the alternator is good. Try your lights, and other acc's, then report back what happens.
I just tried that method. It dies everytime I pull the positive off. Would that pinpoint the problem? I also noticed that the seatbelt fastener light came on once in awhile when I turned the headlight on. sound like a wire is touching a wire somewhere.... when I moved the seatbelt holster, it went away. Ill be checking that later when I get home from work.
If the truck dies, that means there is something wrong with your alternator wiring, or maybe a bad ground from the block to the chassis(or just another wiring problem). The regulator sugestion is good too, but you said you tried another alternator right? That points to whatever is between the alternator and the battery.
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To check to make sure the battery is not the problem(causing an excessive load), Start and run the truck and unhook the positive lead from the battery,
Never do that, that causes an effect known as load dump. The regulator takes a while to adjust to the battery being disconnected. In that time you can get 80V+ out of the alternator which can take out the EFI, stereos and other electrical equipment. In theory all automotive electrics should be designed to handle this but in practice there is a lot of stuff that isn't.
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"So I know the alternator is ok. I also tested the battery cord to alternator, on the battery charger, it says that the alternator is no good, so Im assuming its the wire somewhere between the battery to alternator? "
OK Have you fixed this cord yet? This problem as described, since you eliminated the alternator and battery, is no connection between the battery and the alternator so fix the wire! Then check all your ground connections. Anywhere there is a wire screwed to the body that is a ground also check for grounds to the motor.
Note not all vehicles will run with the battery disconnected. Due to possible damage to electronics I would not do it.
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Unhooking the battery is a bad idea, for the reasons the earlier poster posted and also if the several of the diodes are blown in the alternator, you could send AC voltage thru the ECM frying it. Yes alternators put out AC voltage, but is changed to pulsating DC voltage thu six rectifiers. As each one of these goes bad the output is reduced significantly. Replace the heavy wire with the proper size fusible link, unless you want to be on the traffic reports as a CarBQ! It blew for a reason. If you have a short that kills the battery that fast when running, your going to smell smoke! Check all grounds for a bad connection. If your lights and guages are acting weird that is usually a sign of a bad ground somewhere.
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Allright guys. I didn't realize that unhooking the positive cord was a bad idea.
Ill replace the cord from battery to alternator. And update you guys. Thanks for the advices and all. :)
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If you have the alternator tested and it is ok. And the truck isn't charging when it is running. I would definitly chech the power wire to the back of the alternator. I must have battery voltage and it is what energizes the alternator to make it work.
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i would try taking a dmm put one lead on the alternator and one end on that battery and set it to voltage that will give u the voltage drop there should be no more that .1volt per connection
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dude i've got a 96 trak and i'm dealing with the same crap....... i've been un hooking my battery.
You have a different problem. Yours dies while it's off. His dies while running. His alternator is not working obviously for some reason. He said it was tested good so that means it's not getting power to energize the alternator. Only thing I can come up with!
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I concour with Amour, also check the idiot light on the dash, if it is burned out some GM alternators will not charge, I had that problem on a old Ford tractor that I changed to 12 volt with a GM alternator.
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I concour with Amour, also check the idiot light on the dash, if it is burned out some GM alternators will not charge, I had that problem on a old Ford tractor that I changed to 12 volt with a GM alternator.
First i've heard of that but completly believeable! :o
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I agree its probably in the energizing wire. This wire is typically a switched source and according to the haynes book it first goes from the switch through the IG-COIL METER fuse which is supposed to be 15 amp. It then splits off in a Y and one side goes straight to the #3 terminal on the alternator. The other goes through the idiot light and into the #2 terminal on the alternator. Haynes says these wires will be black and white (black with white stripe? or white with black stripe?) and the one that goes from the idiot light to the alternator is labeled as white and red.
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I tried posting a pic of the diagram but the forum doesn't like me tonight and is giving an error. So I have uploaded it to my site and you can see the diagram here:
http://www.spyderrobotics.com/images/wiring.jpg
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I tried posting a pic of the diagram but the forum doesn't like me tonight and is giving an error. So I have uploaded it to my site and you can see the diagram here:
[url]http://www.spyderrobotics.com/images/wiring.jpg[/url]
thanks sir.