ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: derekj on March 25, 2008, 10:40:51 PM
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Well here we are, it is spring and time to start thinking about getting the truck ready for some wheelin'. I had read somewhere that a sami Lockrite will work in a kick (rear). Just wondering if anyone has done this and if any mods are needed etc.
Derek
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I found that when I used the Sami locker in the Kick diff I had to use stock kick cross pin's. The Kick cross pins are held in with drive pins while the Sami cross pins are not. The aftermarket cross pins would work them selves out and end up running against the inside of the ring gear teeth.
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Thanks for the info.
Derek
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I am running a sammy rear in the front of my tracker. however they need to be modifyed call hawks they have all the parts to do it right. or you can call tt they sell the bolt in locker for just 299.00
(best deal)
As for the rear just weld it. or buy a 100.000 spool.
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Hi guys,
I have always just welded both front and rear diffs but this is the first small truck I have owned. Why do you feel that the front should not be welded too?
TIA,
Aaron
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it can but it makes it real hard to stear.
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it can but it makes it real hard to stear.
REAL HARD, like "Oh crap, I am the suck in parking lots."
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Well, I had a mazda b2200 once ... on a 70s blazer frame with a d44 front, 14 bolt rear, 4.3 v6, np235 tranny (I think that's what the 4 spd bull lows are), and an np205 transfer case with about 17" of lift and 37" tires. It passed safety inspection with very big mud guards and toyota head light buckets mounted on the bush bumper ;).
I could drive it with one hub locked or both and never either in a parking lot that I can remember. In fact, with that much clearance, power, and traction I didn't need 4wd without finding something specific to need it for.
My Suburban on 44s was also welded in the front d60 (I rebuilt the posi in the d70 rear) and I fabbed crossover steering for the front and was all prepared to drill the box for hydro assist but found it really wasn't necessary. I did however mod the Saginaw steering pump for more flow and after that it was one handed steering again.
I must be missing something obvious here as I don't understand how a spool or locker does the same thing but the locker lets you steer while the others don't. Can somebody enlighten me?
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When I was locked (Detroit) in the front with manual steering on 33's, the locker would allow you, in tight turning situations, to rock on and off the power, locking and unlocking the front end and turn the vehicle much tighter then a comparable welded front end vehicle. Plus no getting in and out to unlock hubs. Most welded front ends I have seen work really well was in conjunction with a twin stick allowing you to run low 2wd and just pull it back into 4wd when needed.
Zig
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okay, fair enough.
I think I will probably just weld my front diff then. If I lock one hub, it is the same as everyone else has in 4wd and as long as things are pretty loose, I will lock them both (I have an affinity for mud holes :laugh:.) Who knows, I may even make it as far as a twin stick in this truck (I had all the parts but ran out of interest on the Subby.) Until then I will just get in and out.
Thanks for taking the time.
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I must be missing something obvious here as I don't understand how a spool or locker does the same thing but the locker lets you steer while the others don't. Can somebody enlighten me?
A locker will, when the conditions are right, allow one tire to pop loose and free spin. That is why on some vehicles the rear end will "pop" when changing lanes. Or make loud ratcheting noises when driving on the road. This is the locker binding up like a spool, as the locker is locked by default, then popping free when it decides you are going around a corner and want the one side to spin.
If you are under power or in a straight line, the amount of torque on the gears is enough to stop it from freeing up the one side, leaving the system locked like a spool.
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aaron74, have fun.
(http://www.zukikrawlers.com/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
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Haha, yeah.
I just looked up the twin stick in this and only now realized that the stock t-case is twin-stick ready. I'm gonna get on that right away. I used to work in (and ran for a while) a custom metal fabrication shop in East Van, so none of the stuff I have seen for fabbed twin-sticks looks very daunting. It looks like more of a pain (not to mention less interesting) to remove the detent ball.
On another note, I also found pictures of a guy who tapped a kick box for hydro assist with a stock ram assembly from a corvette and a good ol' Saginaw pump. I bet with all that extra flow volume it won't even feel like the slow-motion steering I had with the Mazda ram!!
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I had welded front and rear zuk axles and 31" s with side kick power steer and couldn't even tell, now I have the same power steer welded front and rear toyota axles and 35" tires and still can't tell no twin sticks no one hub stuff :(
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Well, that sounds a lot more like what I have experienced 8). I do have to admit that on dry rock, with both hubs locked that the Sub was hard to turn before I modded the steering pump but with good traction like that I have never really found that I needed all four wheels turning :-\.
I don't have any plans for anything bigger than 31's for now anyway (and would probably have to change axles if I did.)
Thanks again!