ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: wezzlegod on April 15, 2008, 09:39:31 PM
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im puting toyota axles undre my sidekick and i have a qestion about the perportion valves in the break system. can thay be removed and the breaks tubed straight to the master silender. maybe someone that have done this modification or experemented wit the break system. what did you do to solve this problem. please help.
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I'm putting toyota axles under my sidekick and I have a question about the proportion valves in the brake system. Can they be removed and the brakes tubed straight to the master cylinder? Maybe someone that has done this modification or experimented with the brake system? What did you do to solve this problem? Please help.
Translated it for ya! ;)
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I'm putting toyota axles under my sidekick and I have a question about the proportion valves in the brake system. Can they be removed and the brakes tubed straight to the master cylinder? Maybe someone that has done this modification or experimented with the brake system? What did you do to solve this problem? Please help.
Translated it for ya! ;)
Thanks Dig!
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I'm putting toyota axles under my sidekick and I have a question about the proportion valves in the brake system. Can they be removed and the brakes tubed straight to the master cylinder? Maybe someone that has done this modification or experimented with the brake system? What did you do to solve this problem? Please help.
Translated it for ya! ;)
Thanks Dig!
Yea, I want to thank you too Digger! I don't know if I could drink enough beer to figure that one out. ;D
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I'm putting toyota axles under my sidekick and I have a question about the proportion valves in the brake system. Can they be removed and the brakes tubed straight to the master cylinder? Maybe someone that has done this modification or experimented with the brake system? What did you do to solve this problem? Please help.
Translated it for ya! ;)
Thanks Dig!
Yea, I want to thank you too Digger! I don't know if I could drink enough beer to figure that one out. ;D
Yep, brakes sometimes break but breaks don't have brakes. ;)
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You guys are harsh.
I like it. :laugh:
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You guys are harsh.
I like it. :laugh:
well, DUH!!!
ROTFLMAO
and wezzle...... keep us posted on your findings and results please cuz i'm gooing to have to do that modification one of these days too.
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well i was hopping the guy that built rockstar would have somthing to say. or mike rpm if thats not the same person. i hate to go blind with no good feadback in to this mod. ??? ???
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To be honest, I would like to know if there is an alternative to the valve myself. I have sprung a leak on mine, nothing serious, and I really don't want to spend the $400+ price tag for a new one.
Sorry wesslegod, we just could not resist "jacking" with you a little! ;)
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If I remember right, Heather came accross a similar issue with her 4door SAS Kick. Might be some topics about it around here...
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Different applications, but I just eliminated all the stock proportioning valves on mix and match trucks and if the brakes were locking up too easy in the rear (tested on a gravel road with speed) then I added an aftermarket proportioning valve to dial it down. You can't really predict these things that well when you are mixing different master cylinders with variable slave cylinders (especially after you have swapped out drums for rear discs.) Remember that tire size can make a big difference too ... I found my Subby rear brakes locked up 38s a little too easy on the gravel (they were Ford dual piston 1 ton calipers) but were no problem with 44s.
The worst case scenario is that you can have a master that just does not move enough volume for large pistoned (or dual pistoned) calipers ... this has not really been my experience though. And I am not sure that you will find big volume enough differences in the hardware between Zuks and Toys.
The factory proportioning valves (designed for a certain model master/slave combination and tire size) is unlikely to be the right thing for your new slaves and wheels. I would recommend removing them and being prepared to buy a variable proportioning valve. That said, you could always leave them in there and try it out as is (you haven't much to lose but a little time and the cost of blank fittings.) You probably won't get a more detailed explanation than that because it really depends on your build (unless you are copying someone else's build.)
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ok thanks thats more of the reply i was looking for the thing i was most concered with was the frunt breaks because thay go into the frunt p valve and was woundering if it would mess with them if i eleminated the frunt one i was planing on getting a ajustable p valve for the rear if thay locked up to much on hard breaking. thanks for your info it helps.
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ok thanks. thats more of the reply i was looking for. the thing i was most concerned with was the front brakes because they go into the front p valve. i was wondering if it would mess with them if i eliminated the front one. i was planing on getting an adjustable p valve for the rear if they locked up too much on hard braking. thanks for your info. it helps.
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That's too much.
Must not laugh. Have to resist. Ahhhggg! :laugh:
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Thing is, you need a proportioning valve. If you are running equal pressure to the front and rear brakes the rear will lock or the front won't be as effective as it should be. My bet is to buy an adjustable aftermarket unit. Every body running different from stock tires and ride height should. I'm being a little hypocritical as I am running a lift, larger rubber and bigger front calipers. But if you are running a significantly modified brake set up and use it for a much road use you should consider it.
~PS~ Firefox web browser will underline in red your spelling mistakes, and IE has a button.
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wow i think im going to pay you guys to build my tracker..... i cant even manage the IFS what was i thinking i supply the green you guys just build me a truck haha all problems solved