ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Jookycola on May 02, 2008, 02:49:57 PM
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So it was beautiful out and was ready to do a tune up on the Trackkick. Everything went flawlessly, New pcv valve, plugs & wires, Cap & Rotor, Fuel filter, cleaned the K&N...But it all went down hill fast from there.
I went to replace the blown out EGR valve next. Before I started doing that i thought i'd clean some of the gook out of the throttle body and get some of the carbon out of the connecting tubes to the EGR.
In all the years i've been working on cars I can't believe i was so stupid. I doused the TB in Gumout and went to town scrubing it with an old childrens Tooth brush. and I'l be damned if the head of that toothbrush didn't snap off inside the throttle body and down in to the 16V intake manifold. So now i'm worried.
How the hell can I get it? or am I screwed and have to take off the whole intake manifold to get it?
It gets worse. I also snapped the head off of one of the heavily rusted EGR valves bolts. Now the bolt is stuck in the block. I'm guessing my 10 minutes of murphy's law is now going to cost me huge amounts of cash. Am I looking at painful repair bills for all this?
I can't believe all the bad luck i'm all the sudden getting with this truck so far this year.
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you must have the 1.6l 16 valve engine right? Looking at my 8v I don't see how that could happen. I snapped a bolt off when changing my thermostat. If it looks like the bolt hole doesn't go into the airway or water blocks you can just use penetrating fluid and drill the bolts center. Then lightly heat it with a $25 propane torch and use a easy out tool. Good chance it will come. If you think the bolt hole goes into a engine passage you can do the same but look at your other bolt to see how long it is and measure on your drill bit so that you won't drill all the way through the stuck bolt. Use a couple of wraps of electrical tape on the bit to stop yourself from going too far. Drill, heat, and try the easy out. If all that scares you then you better take it in. :^)
Only advice I could tell you on the toothbrush would be to try a small extendable mechanics mirror and see if you can see it. Then maybe use right angled needle nose pliers or forceps or something to try and grab it.
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I've never had any luck with easy outs... I say drill it out and put in the proper size heli-coil.
http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp
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I have had easy outs work 50% of time. 45% of the time they dont grab. 5% of the time I have snapped the easy out in the hole and then cursed for 30 minutes. :^) Helicoils also work well and don't care what thread screw you put in so they are very "parts drawer friendly". But be carefull not to overtighten the new bolt down with a helicoil as they do not as strong as a properly taped hole.
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Yep, It's the 16v motor. and it has a long intake manifold...The tooth brush head is about 6 or 7 inches down a hole. Honestly, I'm more concerned with this damn tooth brush then the EGR bolt.
The bolt is a long one where about an inch and a half of the bolt is smooth. so the plan is to thread that 1 1/2 inch part and just screw in a shorter bolt. The tooth brush part though? That's going to be a real b*tch. It would seem the only way that's going to get resolved is by removing the manifold...and that looks like a weekend of work to me. And that sucks because untill i get it out i can't drive. It seems like such a stupid reason to not be able to drive my car.
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What about one of those snake type tools with the claws that come out when you push the little plunger like top?
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Thanks alot for that detailed story Jookycola. that little story keeps playing in my head and sounds like something that would happen to me. I wish I could help but best of luck
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Try not to beat yourself up too much. Years ago I was setting the valves on my new Yamaha tt 6oo, ( that oughta tell ya how long ago!) and used a pencil in the spark plug hole to measure TDC. Well it got to TDC and snapped that pencil like a, well, pencil ! The bottom half fell down into the cylinder, and required a teardown alll the way to the bare cylinder to get it out. We've all been there. Good Luck!
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You could pull the spark plugs out and use some compressed air where the plug was and turn the engine untill the intake valve is open that shoots the tooth brush out.
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But be carefull not to overtighten the new bolt down with a helicoil as they do not as strong as a properly taped hole.
A properly fitted helicoil should be stronger than the original ally thread. In the defence industry threads in ally below a certain size must be heli-coiled.
I dropped a dowel once when removing a bike's cylinder head. Ended up having to split the crankcases to retrieve it from the gearbox. These things happen.
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You could pull the spark plugs out and use some compressed air where the plug was and turn the engine untill the intake valve is open that shoots the tooth brush out.
Or, instead of compressed air, try a shop-vac... or both.
Next time use an adult toothbrush. ;D
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You could pull the spark plugs out and use some compressed air where the plug was and turn the engine until the intake valve is open that shoots the tooth brush out.
Or, instead of compressed air, try a shop-vac... or both.
Next time use an adult toothbrush. ;D
may be instead of pushing with the shop vac try vacuuming at the tb, might work
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Go get a piece if rubber hose long enough to reach down in the hole and small enough to maneuver, then duct tape the smaller hose to the shop vac (or any vac) hose. That will give you a very strong suction in a concentrated area and should pick it up with no problem.
(Also can be done in the woods with the deflater end of an Air mattress pump :P )
If you cant find a good size hose to use, go by your local fish aquarium store, they will have all different sizes for plumbing tanks.
HTH,
Zig
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What about one of those snake type tools with the claws that come out when you push the little plunger like top?
I've used one of these tools in many situations and always had good luck. You should be able to get one at any auto parts store for cheap money. Good luck, lets us know what happens.
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How the hell can I get it? or am I screwed and have to take off the whole intake manifold to get it?
It gets worse. I also snapped the head off of one of the heavily rusted EGR valves bolts. Now the bolt is stuck in the block. I'm guessing my 10 minutes of murphy's law is now going to cost me huge amounts of cash. Am I looking at painful repair bills for all this?
I can't believe all the bad luck i'm all the sudden getting with this truck so far this year.
Drill the block and retap the whole for a new bolt. Very simple!
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set fire to it! the tooth brush piece will come right out. the intake assembly is really easy leave all the hoses and just remove the bolts/nuts about 12 i think and pull it just an inch poke your finger in each tube till you find it, i could take my injection assembly off in 15 min course ive done it 5 or 6 times
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Now I'm wondering if they make metal tooth brushes...
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Now I'm wondering if they make metal tooth brushes...
...or a plastic magnet... ;D
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Plastic magnet...jeez don't i wish.
Well i decided to try the smaller tube duct taped to my shop vac idea. I'll do it this weekend and let everyone know if i had success. As for the EGR bolt. Because of where it's located at i can't drill it and/or tap it. It's at the back of the motor by the firewall in a spot to tight to fit a drill. but I think the saving grace is that this bolt was long.
and the first 1 1/2 inches of it were smooth. The only part still stuck is the threaded part so that leaves me 1 /12 inces to either use a self tapper of some kind or a helicoil. Thanks for all the ideas guys i'll let you all know how it all turns out.
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But be carefull not to overtighten the new bolt down with a helicoil as they do not as strong as a properly taped hole.
A properly fitted helicoil should be stronger than the original ally thread. In the defence industry threads in ally below a certain size must be heli-coiled.
I dropped a dowel once when removing a bike's cylinder head. Ended up having to split the crankcases to retrieve it from the gearbox. These things happen.
You gotta get the helicoil just right and not over tighten the bolt. I overtightened one and it pulled loose from the back of my head. Thread serts are better for aluminum applications but harder to find the right size, more expensive than helicoils, and the hole has to be much bigger then the actual bolt you plan on using because the thread sert has more meat to it. In my application, I ended up tapping out the aluminum hole, putting in a fresh helicoil and using thread lock red to lock a stud in and used a nut to lock my extension housing to the back of the head, not sure if something like that would work in your case though. Good luck.
-Adam :sleepy:
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idid the same shit with some wooden q-tips cleqaning out the intake took a while and a few beers but i got it out just lucky no real cure i can pass on to you