ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: BRD HNTR on July 27, 2008, 09:16:23 PM
-
I found a good set of instructions for building/replacing the rock panels on my Tracker here in the DIY, wrote by Jimiweld. Instructions very close and very helpful when cutting into still straight body panels. Good tips to, I hadn't used 1/16 cutting wheels on angle grinder before, I have used lots of them since.
I have added my photos to the various steps in Jimiweld's instructions and my remarks are in bold italics. (Hope this doesn't cause any problems)
Re: Replacing Sidekick rockers question
« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2007, 04:32:49 AM »
Reply with quote
Making the Tube Rockers
Step 1
Measure the length of the rocker to replace, at this point make them a bit longer to allow for cutting and fitting later on.
Step 2
Either weld two pieces of 2"x 2" square tube with a 1/8" wall thickness together as shown or purchase 2" x 4" tubing with a at least a 1/8" wall thickness. I think the two pieces welded together is a bit stronger as it has the center web in it but realistically either will be strong enough. (I went with 2X4X1/8)
I used 2X4X1/8"
Step 3
At this point if you are thinking about running big tires and are going to need to do any trimming to the fenders or front floor area to clear the tires I would suggest getting that done and have the tires fitting how you like them before putting the rockers in.
From the bottom of the door measure down about ½" to 5/8" and scribe a line approximately parallel to the bottom of the door on the existing rocker and across onto the front fender and rear fender area of the body. Have a friend hold a long aluminum drywall ruler for you and you can stand back and adjust it as needed until your happy. It"s flexible enough to match the body as well to keep a straight line.
I cut at the bend line below the door. take the front fenders of first and cut separately.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI1Du1KmEQI/AAAAAAAAB90/_TtKQ3Ixucg/CIMG1951.JPG?imgmax=512)
Step 4
I used a 1/16 cutting disc on an angle grinder to cut out the old rocker. I just followed the line and cut it off. I cut the front fender and rear fender portion out at the same time. On the backside or under the truck I came down a good 1" or so and cut across the rocker. Just be sure not to let the grinder go in too deep on the drivers side, there"s a bunch of wires that run through that rocker.
Cut just inside pinch seam on bottom of rock panel, for 2X4 rails. On my first one, I cut to far inboard and had to add some metal to make it fit.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI1D8mDDx8I/AAAAAAAAB98/imGXh_LimD0/stuff%20054.JPG?imgmax=512)
Step 5
Fitting the new rocker isn"t too hard. Push the new rocker into the area that was just cut out, let it come to rest on the inside rocker that was left 1" long (the underside of the truck) as shown, this will give you a pretty good lap joint to weld to. Fit it in there and hold it in place with a couple jack stands or something. Mark the overall length once you have it positioned how you like it, take it out and cut it to size then refit. Now you can take the front fender off to allow for welding since the rocker is already fit. I flattened out the bottoms of my front fender a bit and let the rear portion sit out a bit more and tapered it in to the front, I kind of like how it looks like that.
I tack welded it front, back and middle on the outside and then the same on the underside or backside so that it wouldn"t twist while welding. You can weld it like this or you can put in the additional 1/8" thick material that I used. I have a vertical band saw so it was easy to cut the material to fit. I like the 1/8 material as the rocker area to weld to is thin and mine was still slightly rotted that makes it easy to blow holes while welding to the raw edge. I found that the 1/8" flat bar made it strong and easy to weld. Now you are performing an edge joint (no raw edge) where it is welded to the existing rocker material and the visible area is easy to weld since it is 1/8" material to 1/8" thick material and if done nicely no grinding is required where visible. Where I tig welded it you could easily mig weld it as well, I just tig welded as I could fuse the material together and not have to grind later.
Make sure you put lots of tack welds all over before welding, also clean all rust and paint away from the areas to be welded, it will weld much nicer. It"s always a good idea to stagger your welding (weld 2 – 4" long beads and then move to another area). This will help to reduce overall distortion. Allow the welds to cool between beads on the drivers side, don"t forget those wires are in there and you don"t want to melt them by overheating the material
I had wires on both sides, used duct tape to hold them up out of the way. Still be cautious with the heat.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI1EYj2msGI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/6vKAoPxpKQc/stuff%20049.JPG?imgmax=512)
Step 6
Make end caps for the tubes and weld them on.
I think that"s about it.
* Rocker Sketch.JPG (23.47 KB, 958x612 - viewed 31 times.)
* Tube Sketch.JPG (17.11 KB, 958x612 - viewed 18 times.)
I tapered the front of the rails to match the wheel opening, same with the back. Then I cut off bottom of fender an added a tab bending inward so I could bolt the front fender on for easy removal. I welded a bolt up from inside the rails, but drilling an using a self tapping bolt would work.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI1E5i3E-xI/AAAAAAAAB-Y/L8ogwDnEaG8/stuff%20041.JPG?imgmax=512)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI1GRqio5cI/AAAAAAAAB-g/6NpbPkzdyic/Random%20stuff%20010.JPG?imgmax=512)
These work!!! First time out I was sliding over roots & rocks. Had a couple drops onto rocks, and just scraped paint off the bottom. Satisfaction every time I drop onto something.
It took a couple of days, but it was just the start of modifications.
Almost finished product
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI1HTVkRafI/AAAAAAAAB-o/qRHTU3qiVUU/CIMG2837.JPG?imgmax=512)
-
I like the front bumper - looks like it can take and dish out a good beating ;)
Derek
-
He hasn't had a chance to beat up the front bumper yet. It was just put together on Saturday. :)
-
When building the tube rockers I knew that I needed to have a winch, so started the process by welding a piece of 7" X 1/4" channel iron in place.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI5PVhxufYI/AAAAAAAAB_Q/Md2Sy2rI6jM/s144/stuff%20062.JPG)
After the tube rockers, painting, and building the rear bumper (posted earlier), it was time to make the front bumper.
My nephew works for a metal shop, and agreed to (help) build it for me. Taking it to the shop with a winch in place, we got started.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI5ehYkc26I/AAAAAAAACDA/1i_yEZ2NxMc/s144/CIMG2821.JPG)
We made a drawing of what we wanted it to look and fit like on cardboard.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI5Ubtoa65I/AAAAAAAAB_w/rNvzONdPHIY/s144/CIMG2775.JPG)
Then checked the cardboard creation for fit.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SH7epyUVsKI/AAAAAAAABzQ/huujbeDbYyw/s144/CIMG2776.JPG)
After transferring the cardboard to metal, cutting it, and a few bends, the bumper starts taking shape.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI5YuUbJ3MI/AAAAAAAACAQ/kn66kH8nAuQ/s144/CIMG2777.JPG)
With numerous adjustments,fitting and welding, the shell was done. I wanted it strong, so we boxed the wings.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI5ZCEcEgWI/AAAAAAAACAw/ltnlFqlp1aI/s144/CIMG2829.JPG)
Thanks to my nephew's HELP!!! With hangers installed my tracker was ready to leave the shop,
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SI5Z5EOGdNI/AAAAAAAACCA/EZFFTZCeK4Q/s144/CIMG2834-1.JPG)
-
Full size pics can be found online at http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/Misc :)
-
Finally got motor for my winch, and installed. I think it really adds to the bumper.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SMvQTNeek4I/AAAAAAAACJM/RlH8MzqkshY/s512/CIMG2938.JPG)
With both bumper and winch up front looks like I lost some lift up front. Since I just acquired a 92 parts 4 door, I thought I would try the heavier front springs to see the change.
4 door front spring on the left, 2 door spring on the right.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SNjKz_5bdxI/AAAAAAAACLU/YdM2eV4Rug8/s512/glory%20004.JPG)
This brought ride height up about 1" - 1 1/2". (Of course I didn't measure before the change.) Now have 2" spacers, 4 door springs, and 2" strut spacers up front. I do not have much down travel left, so not sure of effect on cv's. Hope to try it out at Walker Valley this weekend.
Will post photos of how it sets tomorrow. Ride is good right now, not too stiff. I need to install a camber bolt also, and will get alignment after the trail run.
-
Nice work. You got a nice lookin' tracker/kick. I don't think I've came across the original post b4, and I have been exploring rocker options, so another idea to add to my list......
I'm also curious on trail response of the 4door springs with coil spacers. I've debated doing it, and just don't know about the down travel...
-
I believe the 92 4 door had the 5.38 R&P in them. Worth looking!!!
-
I believe the 92 4 door had the 5.38 R&P in them. Worth looking!!!
I wish it did. They were 5.12 same as my tracker, 41 teeth. Already installed the front diff. in mine.
-
Nice work. You got a nice lookin' tracker/kick. I don't think I've came across the original post b4, and I have been exploring rocker options, so another idea to add to my list......
I'm also curious on trail response of the 4door springs with coil spacers. I've debated doing it, and just don't know about the down travel...
As I feared, lost a CV after about an hour. I do not have much down travel, meaning CV's close to maxed out. (2" coil spacers with 4 door springs on 2 door.) I like the ride, and do not want to loose the lift, so I am now considering dropping the A arm mounts & diff to reduce CV angle. Will have to lower steering linkage also. If going that far, I will see if I can get the mod. in to run drivers side CV on both sides done also. I was lucky that the ds broke, and did not take that long to replace.
It just goes on.
-
After blowing a CV during the first hour at Walker Valley I decided to lower my front diff., to reduce the CV angles.
Here is my CV at rest (before).
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOw-mDzbtqI/AAAAAAAACR8/igW9Eb1Ufn8/s512/CIMG3027.JPG)
And here it is fully extended (before).
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOw-msl4jfI/AAAAAAAACSE/sm_bCnBtC10/s512/CIMG3028.JPG)
I cut the diff. hangers and added 2" spacers (which was to much, so they are now are at 1 1/2"), and replaced the cross member to get clearance for back of diff.
Here is the rebuilt diff. hangers, with a stock drivers side for reference.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOw-pO7KatI/AAAAAAAACSc/iLxs3sNbRko/s512/CIMG3036.JPG)
And here is what the cross member now looks like.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOw-ne733AI/AAAAAAAACSM/jZa90WhiQys/s512/HPIM0372.JPG)(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOw-oEJfweI/AAAAAAAACSU/UG0XerIWOis/s512/HPIM0373.JPG)
I have about 1/4 clearance on bottom of diff. snout. I welded a heavy washers on to the bottom both sides of back diff. mount.
I achieved much better CV angles as show at full extension.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOxD_D3dPxI/AAAAAAAACS8/2buimO5EGuI/s512/HPIM0377.JPG)
I tested for clearance/binding of the CV's due to having moved the diff. lower. No problem with the CV shafts straight, they still have clearance at the flanges.
If you notice the springs are bowed outward, and were pressing on the brake calipers at times when working it off road (brakes seem to disappear at times). I have modified the A arm spring pads, so the spring sits straight without bowing. I will post photos as soon as I get them installed.
-
Looks good. We'll have to plan another Walker run to try them out. :)
-
Thanks for the feedback on the springs, and nice article/pics BRD HNTR. You seem to be going through the stages I currently am. Luckily I "Finally" found a sami axle locally and now I'm going to put the steel third in the frt. I was thinking about fabbing drop brackets and your little writeup helps out a lot, thanks.
I noticed you dropped the crossmember, any reason in particular for doing this? It seems easy enough since you are "dropping" the diff. But I notice most "bolt-on" lift just change the snout mount somehow, I'm assuming to angle it more.
I have thought about dropping the crossmember, and if I do so I thought why not drop the Aarms like the old procomp kits use to do. I guess this may reduce the frt clearance some, but improve/reduce spring "buldge."
Also as a side, do you still run your swaybar in the front? That was one of the first things I scrapped and didnt even notice it change any "on" road characteristics.
-
I like the rockers and bumper. Nicely done
-
Thanks for the feedback on the springs, and nice article/pics BRD HNTR. You seem to be going through the stages I currently am. Luckily I "Finally" found a sami axle locally and now I'm going to put the steel third in the frt. I was thinking about fabbing drop brackets and your little writeup helps out a lot, thanks.
I noticed you dropped the crossmember, any reason in particular for doing this? It seems easy enough since you are "dropping" the diff. But I notice most "bolt-on" lift just change the snout mount somehow, I'm assuming to angle it more.
I have thought about dropping the crossmember, and if I do so I thought why not drop the Aarms like the old procomp kits use to do. I guess this may reduce the frt clearance some, but improve/reduce spring "buldge."
Also as a side, do you still run your swaybar in the front? That was one of the first things I scrapped and didnt even notice it change any "on" road characteristics.
Reading through lots of posts, it seems that Calmini just drops the front brackets and allows the back to rotate up, changing angles on U-joints. I wanted to keep it square, and lowering it allows the skid pan to still protect the Diff. I tried cutting the original down, but after putting a stiffener across the top, I didn't gain much. (I also ran out of gas for the wire feed, it looked like s--t middle of night work, this works/looks much better.) I tried 2" of drop on the front brackets, but would have to drop the back cross member more, so went back to 1 1/2". It really made a difference in CV angles.
I am also considering dropping the a arms (which would make the diff./CV shafts back in alignment). I have modified the spring pads and squared up the springs. I have one side in now, and going back to garage to get other side in now. I will post on it this evening.
With the increased height the steering linkages need to be addressed. So I am looking at making drops for both control arm and idler. If you have done this, or have ideas, let me know. Seems like we are both going same direction.
-
I like the rockers and bumper. Nicely done
Thanks, they are functional too. I built the rear bumper also, in another write up.
-
With 4 door springs and 2" coil spacers my springs have a lot of bow in them, and when 4 wheeling my brakes have started to disappear at times. So I decided to raise one side of the spring pads to square up the springs.
Springs before modification
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SOxD_D3dPxI/AAAAAAAACT0/RgzjiuHv98Q/s512/HPIM0377.JPG)
After removing the A arms I set a spring in the pad and used it as a guide to torch cut 90 percent around the outside. Then turn over and cut around the tube coming out the bottom of spring pad. Driving the tube up into the bottom of A arm, turn over again and pry the cut up 30 degrees or so, and clean up the torch cuts.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SO1w40VbQMI/AAAAAAAACT4/jgX6tbLGG0k/s512/CIMG3063.JPG)
I took a heavy duty washer and welded it over the hole from the post inside the spring pad.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SO1yLrVD1tI/AAAAAAAACUY/6laogVhea7k/s128/CIMG3066.JPG) (I tacked the top, and did a full weld on the bottom.) Then drive the spring pad back down until the post is seated on the washer. I rolled a piece of 1" X 1/8" flat bar around a 4" pipe and cut to make about 3/4 of a circle. Using a C clamp to hold the spring plate in place I drove the flat bar (semi circle) around the raised spring pad like this.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SO1yWfVTpXI/AAAAAAAACUg/n6omMLkiovA/s512/CIMG3067.JPG)
The upper edge was raised 1" doing this. I then welded everything up.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SO1yarlbtzI/AAAAAAAACUo/koqdvxEtt5E/s512/CIMG3069.JPG)
Reinstall everything and end up with about 1" of lift. This is how my coil springs set now.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SO11gJzrugI/AAAAAAAACUw/hH44lLY-VnU/s512/CIMG3073.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/CrawlersNW/SO11g-Dl4DI/AAAAAAAACU4/KzZNRn9JHM0/s512/CIMG3074.JPG)
Not needing more lift, I removed the 2" spacer before reinstalling everything. I lost 1" of lift total, so cut the spacer down to 3/4" and reinstalled. Presently I set 1/2 inch taller than before the modifications. I have much better clearance for the brake calipers.
-
Wanting a steel front housing to put a locker in, and having a empty Sammi rear housing just setting there, my brain just said you can do that. So I have started to convert a sammi rear end to a front end for my tracker. The short side even has the same size bearing housing as the seal, so just shorten it up a little.
I took the angle grinder with 1/16" cutting wheel and got started.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SQYyWwGD4hI/AAAAAAAACYM/oLQBFLeIa-w/s512/CIMG3085.JPG)
Then I cut the flange off the end of the tube (cutting back far enough that there was just room for the seal). Next I cut the rest of the tube off, leaving 3/16 of the inner tube (as the stop for the seal), welded these two together.
I installed a diff. into the housing, put an old seal in the new end and put it on a short side cv. Sliding the cv and new end into the housing, I tacked the new end into place.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SRJvaBkdqUI/AAAAAAAACYU/vZxXEDX8P-E/s512/CIMG3112.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SRJva_iIDpI/AAAAAAAACYc/KseA1a_0DIA/s512/CIMG3113.JPG)
I cut a hole in a piece of 3/16" plate, slipped it over the new end, tacked it up and trimmed the edges back to conform with the housing and welded it up. I Installed the seal again and test fit appears good.
This is what the short end looks like.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SRJvb_2k15I/AAAAAAAACYk/esGItW2Wsmo/s512/CIMG3114.JPG)
I hope to get started on the other end tomorrow.
-
Got a good start today, until I ran out of wire.
First thing I did today, was cut off the bearing housing at the weld. Then I tapped out the short section of axle housing, and cleaned up bearing housing. The tracker bearing fits into the housing very snug, just like it should. I will need to get a special seal, because the bearing housing steps up larger after the bearing (at least one seal, and the bearing will be stock).
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SROFfHyeyTI/AAAAAAAACZM/bHCxVsR6iOY/s512/CIMG3116.JPG)
After removing all the brackets on housing, and cleaning up the weld area, I cut the long side to appropriate length. I then installed the bearing into bearing housing, and put bearing housing back on diff housing, and installed the axle. Fit on this looking good.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SROFfhYjY2I/AAAAAAAACZU/QEdqFL8LFh0/s512/CIMG3117.JPG)
After tacking bearing housing in place I removed the axle. Bearing comes out with the axle, as I did not try to make a snap ring notch to hold it in. As I stated before, I will have to get a seal sized to fit hole. Just finished welding the bearing housing up, and ran out of wire. So here is where it sits.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SROFgcNxdZI/AAAAAAAACZc/NRkRG_poxvg/s512/CIMG3119.JPG)
It looks bigger, and longer than the aluminum case. But, the axles go all the way into the diff., so couldn't make any shorter. I will measure the length from axle to axle on my running tracker (when it stops raining).
Tomorrow make and install mounting brackets.
-
Nice fabbing! everything looks good, very creative on the front diff action.
-
looks great. Thanks for all the good ideas.
-
Decided that instead of putting taller shocks on we would just raise the lower shock mount several inches. This allows us to keep the lighter duty shock for a softer ride and gets the mount out of the way of rocks and other obstructions.
Since the original shock mounts are 1.5" across we hunted through the spare metal bin and found some 2x4 steel, just the right inside diameter. First step was to cut the steel into the proper shape for replacement lower shock mounts.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_SYdt6tfI/AAAAAAAACaY/R8-Ub-FbRT4/s512/CIMG3124.JPG)
Next step was to cut out the shorter end to create an open back for the shock mount.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_SZ5c3BXI/AAAAAAAACao/YpoEKG6qXjg/s288/CIMG3127.JPG)(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_Sa_ErosI/AAAAAAAACaw/-XdDNv4H9JA/s288/CIMG3128.JPG)
Once that was done center punch and drill the holes for the shocks.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_ScHTFCmI/AAAAAAAACa4/LYFUtaUOIlg/s288/CIMG3129.JPG)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_ScwMwagI/AAAAAAAACbA/z3yqttu9X7s/s288/CIMG3130.JPG)
Clean up the edges with the grinder and set it on the axle to get an idea what it will look like when mounted.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_Sd24A_kI/AAAAAAAACbI/cuIh7ap1OnQ/s288/CIMG3131.JPG)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_Se8ostbI/AAAAAAAACbQ/Ah-9fWZ2ayc/s288/CIMG3133.JPG)
The next step was to cut off the existing mounts. Then measure the distance to the shocks at the top of their travel and the distance to the bump stops. You want the shock mount to leave you at least 1/2" of travel from the top of the bump stop to shock bottoming out. Once you know your measurement move the shock down, slide the bolt through the shock mounts and use a clamp to hold everything in place so you can tack the mount. Then remove the shock and weld it in place.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_Sf7ywFvI/AAAAAAAACbc/bU1DJvQw7bQ/s288/CIMG3134.JPG)(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_ShIJbAcI/AAAAAAAACbs/h2-CFUXKWqw/s288/CIMG3137.JPG)
We then added an additional brace on top of the new shock mount just as added insurance.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_Sh3iWf3I/AAAAAAAACb0/hoe8Id5qbq0/s288/CIMG3138.JPG)
Paint some primer, make sure everything still bolts up properly and you are done.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SR_SijPL0hI/AAAAAAAACb8/tSV5H1oHRgc/s512/CIMG3139.JPG)
-
;) I really like the DIY attitude!
-
I had the same thought for the front end. Still have the sami rear end in the back yard.
I had a Anvil on order for so long I decied to make my own, and then it finally showed up. So I never did it.
Good job on you mods
-
To get the sammi diff. to work for Tracker axles there is some machining on one side of the diff. that needs to be done. I am having the lid side turned to the same depth/size as the tracker (so the stub axle goes all the way in). Other than that I have all the parts for install.
With the temps in the teens, it may be after Xmas before I get it done.
-
nice work on those rear shock mounts.
stock location is begging to get smacked.
-
nice work on those rear shock mounts.
stock location is begging to get smacked.
That was our thinking too. It also gives a little more droop. Of course now I have to look into the top mount for the three link. I hear it doesn't like much drop.
-
Installed an ARB into my modified steel front diff today. There was an indent in the back of the steel housing that I had to bend back (making it round same as the rest of the back housing). I thought that it belonged there, but the gears objected.
After getting everything up in place, it appears that I now have to take the diff apart and cut the oil return off the bottom of the pinion housing. As the trackers do not have this return track, it should not be a problem. I thought that I had clearance because I have lowered the cross member, but would have to raise the diff back to original height (causing CV problems).
Another problem I encountered was extending the vent to get it away from the diff mount causes it to run into/up under the motor mount. (Not noticeable when the motor is out.) I would recommend moving the vent, or using much smaller line.
I'll take some photos or the oil passage modification as I do it.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SXlaPCS0rgI/AAAAAAAAC8I/c4F5UvfAUO0/s640/CIMG3232.JPG)
-
on the rocker repair . i have not done this yet . but just some info .on the back side you can buy a glue that is used to install qtr. panels. this stuff is as strong!!! its made by fusor. the only draw back is you cant paint over it. roll on bed liner paint will stick.
-
on the rocker repair . i have not done this yet . but just some info .on the back side you can buy a glue that is used to install qtr. panels. this stuff is as strong!!! its made by fusor. the only draw back is you cant paint over it. roll on bed liner paint will stick.
I don't think glue will work. The metal does not overlap, so you would only have the thickness of the body metal to hold to the tubing. Also you would want to have a flush fit for both runs, and my cutting isn't that good. I recommend welding. If you do it let me know how it works.
-
Finished the oil passage modification. I use a write-up by ZuesZuki http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=21156.0 (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=21156.0) and added my photos to his good thread.
Finished modified third member w/o lower oil passage.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SXvmnm8Oj3I/AAAAAAAAC-E/dLsHSdctE3Q/s640/CIMG3253.JPG)
The samurai housing has a much larger banjo then the aluminum, causing it to hang below the (already lowered) cross member. So I removed the lower portion of the housing and welded in a patch even with the gear mount (very similar to the aluminum).
Cutting out the bulge
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SYthC_U-ciI/AAAAAAAADA8/ONuIqpCj7Ag/s144/CIMG3260.JPG)
Patch replaced and oil drain moved
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SYthE5s8JzI/AAAAAAAADBE/7fjr-a0kUwY/s640/CIMG3262.JPG)
I then changed the mount to use third member bolts and original cushioned mount bracket.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SYthIWJ2mbI/AAAAAAAADBU/EZ1oKcGMcnM/s640/CIMG3264.JPG)
And now have it installed
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SYthGVJo48I/AAAAAAAADBM/V_kNdSVFTu4/s640/CIMG3263.JPG)
It is setting a little low, the shield on drive flange hits cross member on bumps, so will have to raise mounts 1/2" or so. I have made some road trips with it, and drove around the field climbing over logs, and testing the ARB. I am test running w/o the front sway bar hooked up to see how much effect it has on normal road driving. I know that I am getting a lot more flexing and use of the ifs w/o it.
I did not get a stub shaft made to use ds CV on both sides. The ARB that I scored on has 26 spline shafts, and I could not find used ones for less than a new one. So I had to buy a ps CV to get it on the road. I am now trying to find a broken 26 spline ps CV, so I can get it modified. With my present lifts I had to lower everything to get the new CV in place. I seem to remember that Mike H. had modified his A arm to allow easier CV replacement. I guess the modifications never stop.
Right now I just want to get some trail time in.
-
looks good
-
Just installed a set of OME 956 springs on front. They increased my ride height by 1 1/2 inches over stock 4 door springs with 7/8" spacer. Tall springs
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Sd_sJEAhO-I/AAAAAAAADZ8/MINjMLoHVhI/s640/CIMG3365.JPG)
I am going to do the Hagen widening mod. to allow it to drop a little. Not going to have much drop left. May have to either increase the strut spacer or get a set of OME struts. If I had the gears, there is plenty of room for larger tires. Oh, I'd need larger tires too. (How close is Christmas?)
-
sami dif looks great in there. Good job. The hagan widening mod is pretty sweet, I just finished it (minus a few tweaks to do).
-
Springs were just too tall, only 1/4" of droop left. I cut 1 coil off with a 1/16" cut off blade, and ended up with the same ride height. We put the 4 door springs in my son's DD, which improved his ride.
With the lift I have, I have been concerned about the upper mount on rear end, so I made a new mount for it.
First I cut off the ball joint, then used the eye off an old spring and welded a 3/4" stud bolt to it. I put two nuts on the stud bolt and positioned it on top of the upper arm and welded the nuts in place. (I spread the nuts apart to make it stronger, as I welded one side of the nut to the upper mount.) I used a piece of 2" square tubing to raise two side mounts for the spring ends and welded them to the upper diff mounting bracket. Then I put new poly bushings into the spring and bolted it in place.
This is a comparison of the two mounts.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SfKWNoMX6zI/AAAAAAAADa0/GMD2dz5ik0g/s640/CIMG3373.JPG)
Side view
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SfKWPXHgWNI/AAAAAAAADa8/G9byYhzvm-I/s640/CIMG3374.JPG)
And this is with it hanging.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SfKWSc-FpQI/AAAAAAAADbM/5r-fu0rtZao/s640/CIMG3378.JPG)
(I ground off some of the front of square tubing for clearance, and put the missing nuts and washers back on.)
I do not have to worry about this breaking, and should have a little better flex.
-
I got this 2.7L V6 early summer to install in my 93 Tracker, but kept on using the Tracker. Since NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION, I sold the Tracker 1.6L 8v and will deliver it tomorrow. So if I want to 4X I have to get to work on the conversion.
1st step: Remove old motor. (done)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Sv448Re3UPI/AAAAAAAAF0M/OMXEBFeEMjY/s640/CIMG0162.JPG)
Now it looks empty enough.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Sv44-caq4EI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/t94dchXreiA/s640/CIMG0166.JPG)
2nd step: Size up installation.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Sv44_mysu1I/AAAAAAAAF0U/H6Va856CohQ/s640/CIMG0167.JPG)
It looks a little bigger in the air, then it did settling on the floor.
And YES, it is a little bigger going in too
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Sv45BcxCcYI/AAAAAAAAF0Y/JHwcRHEfyO4/s640/CIMG0168.JPG)
This exhaust can has to squeeze in there?
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/Sv45CoinRxI/AAAAAAAAF0c/kQUavUpR_GA/s640/CIMG0169.JPG)
I may have to move a few things to get it in, but it should fit. I know Eric has squeezed at least one in, so it can be done. I have to get some more parts for this new motor (it was not just rear ended, appears to have had front damage too). Water pump is shot (now that appears to be a major tear down to replace). I have some other modifications I want to pursue while the Tracker is OOS, so this build will take some time. BUT, it is started.
I am going to beef up my diff mounts so they do not break with a little more hp. (Broke one earlier this summer.)
-
Just started removing parts that seem to be in the way of my installation. Removed ps exhaust manifold, so it would drop past the brake pressure splitter. (That gave me a lot more room, and will figure out how to get it in place once other issues are resolved.) Now it seems that my IFS diff and mounts are preventing it from dropping in place. Researching past threads I found a link that says that removing the diff makes pulling the motor out a XL7 simple. So that is the next move. Diff comes out and motor drops in place to see if I can reinstall the diff, mounts can be modified (again). I still want to keep the IFS (if possible).
-
I was wandering what is actually different about the diff mounting. I noticed once at the local salvage yard that the mounting brackets themselves look different, so I wander if they moved (or possibly widened) the mounting location...Maybe they just modified the bracket itself to come off the diff a little lower, to clear the engine. But as you can see from the pictures below the frame mounting holes are relatively different.
For example:
Sidekick mounts
(http://outdoorauto4x4.com/pictures/4911/8/1919628-1.jpg)
vs. Grand vitara/XL7
(http://outdoorauto4x4.com/pictures/4911/5/1489205-1.jpg)
I dont know if that changes anything in your case, considering you already had your brackets modified for a drop.....Keep us posted what you figure out.
-
I was wandering what is actually different about the diff mounting. I noticed once at the local salvage yard that the mounting brackets themselves look different, so I wander if they moved (or possibly widened) the mounting location...Maybe they just modified the bracket itself to come off the diff a little lower, to clear the engine. But as you can see from the pictures below the frame mounting holes are relatively different.
For example:
Sidekick mounts
([url]http://outdoorauto4x4.com/pictures/4911/8/1919628-1.jpg[/url])
vs. Grand vitara/XL7
([url]http://outdoorauto4x4.com/pictures/4911/5/1489205-1.jpg[/url])
I dont know if that changes anything in your case, considering you already had your brackets modified for a drop.....Keep us posted what you figure out.
Grand Vit frame is wider. Both sets mount about the same, just a different offset. My 93 brackets are a little different casting than the top one you show. If you are lengthing them, be sure to plate your weld area. A lot of force is on those brackets and if they break, so does a CV.
-
hey you do some good work. still trying to get your 1.6 in my car. turns out my engine has two more sensors that yours. keep up the good work.
-
I believe that you can switch the ecm, and included engine wiring to plug and it will work. Or, just switch the intake setup. You must have the California model with increased environmental equipment.
I can check the wiring diagrams, but that would not be until end of next week.
I am running into some snags on my swap also. TIME being the biggest one.
-
that v6 in mine barley fits they even had to use different exhaust setup on each side.
-
I have pre-cats on this new motor, and will have about 1/2 clearance, when I get it squeezed in. Last attempt at setting it in with 1 exhaust manifold off, it looks like I may have a crossmember issue. Next try is with transmission on so I know where it has to fit.
Have you figured out what motor is in yours?
-
I think it is a gm v6 out of an 85 to 87 s-10 or astro van
-
Finally found some time to work on the Tracker
I removed the motor mounts from the frame, and then moved the brake junction connection from the frame up to the fender well. I modified the Pitman arm and idler so that I had 1.5 inches of drop (with the motor setting in it steering linkages are almost straight across). I built a brace to go on the bottom of the idler and welded it to the A arm support.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S1qQAKoOlOI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/HWAYoB8Nloc/s800/CIMG0355.JPG)
Then I tucked the motor and transmission back in it. I put a piece of 1" square tubing between the pan and tie rod and set the motor on it. Still have to center and change exhaust manifolds.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S1qP9gA0pQI/AAAAAAAAGEI/YzQTTquh2iM/s800/CIMG0353.JPG)
I now have the transfer case mount bolted in place, and I can check and see where the new motor mounts are going to be.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S1qP-9MZRjI/AAAAAAAAGEM/r9YwG0e90Vc/s800/CIMG0354.JPG)
Correction, when I moved the motor to center it, pan was hitting back crossmember. Tried changing to one of my other Transfer Case mounts, they would not fit. Tried changing out different TC mount which moved it the wrong way. Then double checking the XL7 TC mount it is offset about 1/2 inch, and I had it setting with the offset to the back. Turned it around and pan is now clearing by 1/4" - 1/2". I may ding that corner in a little (as I slip it back in) to ensure no possible rubbing.
I switched exhaust manifolds to 2003 as my 2005 were bent so they would be hitting crossmember, also pre-cats are a little smaller. Exhaust on the passenger side is tight, so will probably install a small heat shield (pre-cat already has one on it) just to keep brake and fuel lines protected.
I will be working on motor mounts today.
-
Lookin' good! Do you have the alternator mounted in place? If so, how close is it to the front diff mount? I tried to get mine as low as possible, but still ended up higher than stock. Hence my reason for the body lift...
Keep the pics coming! Love to see it when people DW (do work).
-
I haven't installed the alternator, or ps yet. I noticed that your alternator was close, so i removed the diff mount for now. I will replace later. Also following your lead for motor mounts, was planing on using the 05 mounts, but my engine mounts set in middle of frame, so 05 's will be too low.
Didn't get much accomplished today, always something else needing work.
-
I worked on the Tracker all day, but gains were slow. I raised the motor and put the front diff back in, without the two mounts (using jack for now). Lowered the motor back in place, at least as low as it would go. Welded the bottom side of motor mounts in place. I will weld the top side when I pull the motor (hopefully) one last time. Not much clearance between pan, crossmember, and diff. I will definitely have to do some hood work. If body was off, I would have done a body lift, or frame chop & drop, body is not off so hood work it will be. Have my old alternator ready for adaption to its new spot, will be able to use the 2.7 mounts, and drill out my alternator holes, or sleeve the 2.7's holes. I tried to use 2.7 mounts for my PS pump, but could not make it fit, so will be modifying my old mount some more. There is room for my pump where the AC pump would sit.
I did not have a camera today, but doesn't look much different than it has for the last week.
The front drive line fits just fine.
-
When all is said and done I wanna see a video of it in action! and of course pics...
-
I had to install a new water pump, and modify the tc, so everything is back out. Motor mounts are welded in place, moved the ps diff mount, installed new mount points on my steel diff, and I am almost ready for my final install (I hope).
I have converted the electric shift transfer case to a manual shift. I ended up using the center of the 93 tc (dropped the 2005 electric shift tc and cracked the forward drive housing), and installing the heavier gears in it, then using the larger tail shaft, and heavier input.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S4TH0qv2aTI/AAAAAAAAGQk/wiv3btDovxg/s800/CIMG0458.JPG)
I had to change out the two shift rods, so the manual shift had proper contacts for shift lever.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S4TIiLIB6dI/AAAAAAAAGRI/Eu79cqxlVTQ/s800/CIMG0459.JPG)
Now it looks like this.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S4TH2M_VeRI/AAAAAAAAGQs/BJtySSH2Nc0/s800/CIMG0465.JPG)
Still have to do wiring conversion to do once motor is back in place.
I moved the right frame diff mount back about 1 1/2 inches for clearance by the alternator, also modified the mounts on my diff so I can use stock hangers on both sides. I may build steel hangers later, but thought the stock ones were stronger than my modified ones.
New motor mount, and moved brake line.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S4TKTs_i-6I/AAAAAAAAGRo/Rkvrcl0gyAQ/s800/CIMG0456.JPG)
(http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/TrackerEngineSwap#5441696689614420898)
-
WOW you've been hard at it! Good stuff! I now have clearance issues with the steering shaft and the exhaust manifold... :( I knew it was gonna be close, just not that close. So I think I've got to change the upper universal joint. oh well.
-
Two steps forward, one step back.
I have been doing lots of work, but gaining little ground.
I have alternator mounts, and alternator in place. Took two trips to NAPA to get correct size belt. Power steering is in place, two trips for ps belt were not enough. As I am going to start using my old radiator to see if it will work, I had to modify the outlet lines to put hoses in right place. I added a 1/4" spacer between the outlet line and block to create clearance for bolt holding inlet line in place. I was then able to turn the outlet over so it would exit to passenger side, where radiator inlet line is. I cut off the wrap around line, so I could use old radiator outlet hose. Then I ran a brace from radiator outlet line (that I cut off) to a hole on alternator bracked.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S5iZRxFIJzI/AAAAAAAAGXU/vEqOs5rX5IA/s800/CIMG0480.JPG)
There is more clearance for alternator than it looks, bad angle.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S5iZTt_P49I/AAAAAAAAGXc/w_UO9ZySpEk/s800/CIMG0481.JPG)
Power Steering is close, may have to bend outlet line a little more for clearance.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S5iZV3IEDKI/AAAAAAAAGXk/AESDE3Xjncw/s800/CIMG0482.JPG)
My plan is to route engine wiring behind intake and into same hole the 93 uses for engine wiring.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S5iZXzQYtUI/AAAAAAAAGXs/Bu89FkPk2aA/s800/CIMG0483.JPG)
After filling motor with oil, the pan develops a leak. There was not a pan gasket on motor, so I tried using silicone. After retightening it tonight, I will see if I need to pull it and install the lower pan gasket (*lots of * words).
Have to install a 90 degree fitting on my air line to diff. Very little clearance.
Been studying wiring, but have not started anything.
-
Looks great! And coming along well too! I know how it feels though...work, work, work and the list is still a mile long. But it all comes together one item at a time. So you're gonna have to cut up the hood? Are you gonna go with a cowl induction style? or just lift it in the middle and have a bulge there? It's really neat to see the different issues with the project as we each take a little different approach.
-
Looks great! And coming along well too! I know how it feels though...work, work, work and the list is still a mile long. But it all comes together one item at a time. So you're gonna have to cut up the hood? Are you gonna go with a cowl induction style? or just lift it in the middle and have a bulge there? It's really neat to see the different issues with the project as we each take a little different approach.
My plan is to get a 16v hood (they have a slight raise) and cut that back almost all the way, then raise it what ever it takes and fair it in. Hopefully it will be similar in appearance to my 06 Silverado Duramax. I have a beat up hood to practice on.
Of course as you know, that is way down the line. This 2-3 weeks project has not even got close to seeing an end, after months. Body lift, or SAS would have been much faster, as clearance has been my biggest issue.
-
Looks great! And coming along well too! I know how it feels though...work, work, work and the list is still a mile long. But it all comes together one item at a time. So you're gonna have to cut up the hood? Are you gonna go with a cowl induction style? or just lift it in the middle and have a bulge there? It's really neat to see the different issues with the project as we each take a little different approach.
My plan is to get a 16v hood (they have a slight raise) and cut that back almost all the way, then raise it what ever it takes and fair it in. Hopefully it will be similar in appearance to my 06 Silverado Duramax. I have a beat up hood to practice on.
Of course as you know, that is way down the line. This 2-3 weeks project has not even got close to seeing an end, after months. Body lift, or SAS would have been much faster, as clearance has been my biggest issue.
Yeah, it's pretty tight everywhere, even with the body lift!
-
I made a cork gasket for lower oil pan (Napa gasket $27), lowered the oil pan 1/8", decreased the clearance with the tapered pan WHICH I DID NOT NEED. Removed the front diff again, and made new outlet for the ARB line lower. Now need to get a 1/4" block plug w/ allen wrench fitting to plug old hole.
Having drive line shortened and XL7 universal end put on. New drive line will be 1" longer than needed, so rear axle will shift back 1". Will probably 4 link it at same time.
Had the radiator mounted (wrong one), not much to change out, but another step back.
Drone 637 got me much better seats to install when I get that far.
-
Niceeee. I wheel at Walker Valley occasionally. I just sold my samurai and got a Geo Tracker. Just wanted a different direction in project.
Ive been thinking about using the sami axle for my front. You mentioned Machine the part to get the STUB to go all the way in?? Do you mean the lips inside the sami carrier?
-
You have to machine the inside of carrier main body (where bearing slips on) so the stub axle will go all the way in (larger diameter). Or, buy one, already machined (Calmini , Hawk, or Trail tough was carrying them). I live out in BOW, Wa. just north of Walker Valley, so if you are in the area, we could discuss what I did. And what not to do.
-
I have been working on wiring, and trying to find wiring connectors for the Transmission Control Module. The !|removethispart|@$|removethispart|@!$~~$ digital FSM for 2001 to 2006 XL7 is not giving me consistent information. So I found a 2005 FSM for the XL7 which matches the motor year. It should be here end of the week.
Just finished installing one of the newer seats for the Tracker. Finally something went smooth all the way through. http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/install-new-seats-93-tracker/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/install-new-seats-93-tracker/)
Also I tried putting the hood on. It will take some modifications (which I tried on an old hood) and I think will look impressive. Now I need to find a good 16 valve hood to modify.
-
You have to machine the inside of carrier main body (where bearing slips on) so the stub axle will go all the way in (larger diameter). Or, buy one, already machined (Calmini , Hawk, or Trail tough was carrying them). I live out in BOW, Wa. just north of Walker Valley, so if you are in the area, we could discuss what I did. And what not to do.
I just checked the stub and see what you meant. Now I understand. I have a few front sidekick carrier, I was thinking about doing some drill pressing so that I can be allowed to use 4 pins sami locker inside the carrier. Because the maching the carrier would probably take longer than drilling couple more holes.......... We ll see how that goes. Ill be at walker valley area sometime next month. Got other Rig to wheel?
-
My SJ is out there, so that can be taken up without to much prodding. :)
-
You have to machine the inside of carrier main body (where bearing slips on) so the stub axle will go all the way in (larger diameter). Or, buy one, already machined (Calmini , Hawk, or Trail tough was carrying them). I live out in BOW, Wa. just north of Walker Valley, so if you are in the area, we could discuss what I did. And what not to do.
I just checked the stub and see what you meant. Now I understand. I have a few front sidekick carrier, I was thinking about doing some drill pressing so that I can be allowed to use 4 pins sami locker inside the carrier. Because the maching the carrier would probably take longer than drilling couple more holes.......... We ll see how that goes. Ill be at walker valley area sometime next month. Got other Rig to wheel?
Apparently I can use Drone637's Sj410, or if he decides to go I can use the Race Car. I already put a big dent in the roof. I haven't been off-road since last year, so only need an excuse.
-
I finally got an extra set of E51-1, 2, 3 connectors for the 2.7 ECM. The E51-1 was a direct fit for the E228 TCM connector, and I was able to cut down one of the other E51 connectors to make it fit for the other TCM connector E229. Wiring colors are almost correct (now) to the FSM. Now I can get back to wiring.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TCErezDkpZI/AAAAAAAAHY4/PostolqTqlM/s800/CIMG0807.JPG)
-
I have been working on wiring on/off between projects, racing, and some WORK, but concentrated on just Tracker wiring all week, at least 8 hour days. Yesterday it would start only, then shut down when starter let off. But it was the best sound, as all this work and planning was on a motor/tranny I had bought, and wiring I had hacked together. I changed the power pickup for ECM, and then - Main Power Relay picked up and held, fuel pump came on for 30 sec, there is a clicking sound up on intake (relay?) 3-4 then quits, hit starter - WRAAAP, wraap, feather throttle and it runs. IT RUNS!!! Really rich, but have to go over power pickups and rest of wiring. I am morphing old Tracker wiring into the 2.7 wiring and only using half of some connectors for wiring connections. I have a bird nest of wiring in the corner of Tracker, but now that the critical part of wiring works, it is time to clean up, organize, mount computers, finish wiring details, and seal up connections. A slow process.
A link to First 2 seconds of music to my ears. Oh yeah, no exhaust beyond the pre-cats yet. When I get the drive line back, and wiring completed, I'll take it to exhaust shop.
http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/TrackerEngineSwap#5495273182673007586 (http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/TrackerEngineSwap#5495273182673007586)
-
Hey man, I am half way with the front steel housing. Will weld on the drop brackets to the housing, kind of like anvil. That's only the difference from yours.
I noticed that you said you ll be getting a special seal for the drivers side inner axle. Have you found one? if so, you can pm me the part number. If not. Its cool.
Couple friends of mine and myself will be at Walker valley on a sunday this month. I will text Kris and see if he ll be able to come up. I know he has a race at end of this month. If you're interested. You could meet us there at WV.
-
...I noticed that you said you ll be getting a special seal for the drivers side inner axle. Have you found one? if so, you can pm me the part number. If not. Its cool...
I've been waiting do to this project of the steel axle myself for quite sometime....I finally got started after my second axle braking....
I am still fitting and checking alignment and still have yet to get things finalized, hopefully I can gather the information and post it with ZuesZuki or BRD thread or a new one possibly...but anyways here is the seal "I" plan to use with the samurai original "flange", I'm sure BRD might chime in with his seal. Maybe this is the seal you are asking about...
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff317/heiney5/Ditch%20Witch/IMAG0543.jpg)
-
Hey man, I am half way with the front steel housing. Will weld on the drop brackets to the housing, kind of like anvil. That's only the difference from yours.
I noticed that you said you ll be getting a special seal for the drivers side inner axle. Have you found one? if so, you can pm me the part number. If not. Its cool.
Couple friends of mine and myself will be at Walker valley on a sunday this month. I will text Kris and see if he ll be able to come up. I know he has a race at end of this month. If you're interested. You could meet us there at WV.
When working on moving right side mount for V6 install I put drop brackets on the diff so I could use stock brackets. Solid brackets would work, but with clearance I now have would be a pain to install.
Let me know when you are going to WV, the race is 28-29th Aug.
-
...I noticed that you said you ll be getting a special seal for the drivers side inner axle. Have you found one? if so, you can pm me the part number. If not. Its cool...
I've been waiting do to this project of the steel axle myself for quite sometime....I finally got started after my second axle braking....
I am still fitting and checking alignment and still have yet to get things finalized, hopefully I can gather the information and post it with ZuesZuki or BRD thread or a new one possibly...but anyways here is the seal "I" plan to use with the samurai original "flange", I'm sure BRD might chime in with his seal. Maybe this is the seal you are asking about...
([url]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff317/heiney5/Ditch%20Witch/IMAG0543.jpg[/url])
I thought this conversion was so simple to do, but you two are the first that I have heard of doing it. That seal looks similar to one I used. I ground the flanges on end of housing round. Have you machined the right side of diff, or did you get one already machined. If not done the teeth almost engage so you you could think it will work without doing it, but by putting axle in the diff outside housing you will see what needs to be done (just do the correct side, or both). I am using an ARB and it already was larger so the rs axle fits (works awesome).
I would like to see some photos, Or do a build thread.
-
Still working on wiring issues. I have mounted the ECM & TCM (coupled together together) up out of the way, and routing wiring to diminish the size of birds nest. Had motor running awesome on Saturday. Computer is relearning set up and seems to run better each time. Have to get and mount an electric fan (Drone637 is using old fan in his race car).
When redoing multiple ground, and moving wires, I have lost either a power or ground so it does not run now. I do not get the clicking up on manifold, and main power relay is not picking up. Worked half day on it yesterday and have not figured it out YET.
Checking my shortened drive shaft out, the length says it should fit but seems to be way to long. When I get the 4-link installed, which will move axle back 1 inch, I will know if it works.
Going to wrecking yard today to see if I can get a transmission shift cable connection and fan.
-
...I noticed that you said you ll be getting a special seal for the drivers side inner axle. Have you found one? if so, you can pm me the part number. If not. Its cool...
I've been waiting do to this project of the steel axle myself for quite sometime....I finally got started after my second axle braking....
I am still fitting and checking alignment and still have yet to get things finalized, hopefully I can gather the information and post it with ZuesZuki or BRD thread or a new one possibly...but anyways here is the seal "I" plan to use with the samurai original "flange", I'm sure BRD might chime in with his seal. Maybe this is the seal you are asking about...
([url]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff317/heiney5/Ditch%20Witch/IMAG0543.jpg[/url])
I thought this conversion was so simple to do, but you two are the first that I have heard of doing it. That seal looks similar to one I used. I ground the flanges on end of housing round. Have you machined the right side of diff, or did you get one already machined. If not done the teeth almost engage so you you could think it will work without doing it, but by putting axle in the diff outside housing you will see what needs to be done (just do the correct side, or both). I am using an ARB and it already was larger so the rs axle fits (works awesome).
I would like to see some photos, Or do a build thread.
A friend of mine has an access to the equipments so he will be drilling couple holes into the tracker carrier. So I wont be needing to use retainier cup. I just thought it ll be simiplier that way. And Ill be using 26 splines axles with lockright. But, Im trying to find a Passenger side CV so I can cut the stub off.
Ill get you couple pics hopefully by end of the day.
-
I removed my upper linkage on rear end to use on Trouble race car, so have to replace it now.
As it was jacked up we had to see how it would look with 33X11.5's (suspension fully stuffed.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TF4wGNgsnzI/AAAAAAAAHkI/0ohyPxSueM4/s480/SSPX0592.jpg)
My 30X9.5's(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TF4wGUNcVoI/AAAAAAAAHkM/ipk_R8qBT3o/s480/SSPX0593.jpg)
Start with lower linkage (forget it was still in place).
I am using stock rear mounts and linkage ends. Just a little grinding and it will slide into 1 1/2" DOM tubing.(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TF4wHBMkltI/AAAAAAAAHkU/Uz5J55t_qXQ/s800/SSPX0595.jpg)
Then use welded bungs with Johnny Joints for front end of linkage.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TF4wGnGaJzI/AAAAAAAAHkQ/4MiU8PnkOfM/s800/SSPX0594.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TF4wk3VotKI/AAAAAAAAHkc/FbVibd4CYLE/s800/SSPX0599.jpg)
When suspension is completed I will get the drive line cut to fit.
Wiring is almost ready, as it is never really done.
-
Excellent project. Real quality work :) Interesting and informative posts.
Kind regards from
Hannes
-
SWEET! Love the new links. ;D
-
SWEET! Love the new links. ;D
Almost finished with them. They do look nice. I was hoping to leave the bottom axle mounts, but will have to move them up to get good numbers. I tacked all the mounts and measured to make sure of height on all mounts, and must have missed something. The upper frame mounts are 1/4 inch lower than planned, which really throws the numbers off. Easiest way to correct it now is new lower axle mounts. I didn't like them sticking down there anyway!!!!
My new pup chewed up the camera, so will get some photo's later.
-
Sorry for not getting the pic out fast like I said i would. Right now, Im working on the passenger side. My tracker's clutch went out. At least I think so. Was planning on going to WV this sunday....
BRD Hunter, Now you can see where I am at. Have not welded the drop brackets yet.
-
BRD HNTR is going to be taking a boat up to Canada to do some fishing this weekend, but I should be at WV with the SJ. We can probably swing by the homestead and check out BRD HNTR's Tracker if you want to see how he did his brackets. :)
-
BRD HNTR is going to be taking a boat up to Canada to do some fishing this weekend, but I should be at WV with the SJ. We can probably swing by the homestead and check out BRD HNTR's Tracker if you want to see how he did his brackets. :)
I dont know if you have gotten my text. The clutch on my tracker crapped out. If I get the clutch by tomorrow, I could probably get it installed in time but with my work schedule, it will be very tight.
-
Ok, fire me off a message and let me know. I didn't see anything on my phone, but I have been in Minnesota up until today so who knows what the cell network did to it.
-
Sorry for not getting the pic out fast like I said i would. Right now, Im working on the passenger side. My tracker's clutch went out. At least I think so. Was planning on going to WV this sunday....
BRD Hunter, Now you can see where I am at. Have not welded the drop brackets yet.
Yes, that is a familiar sight Good job, and it doesn't break as easy as the aluminum ones. I have been using the bolts for the third member to mount my back diff bracket. I do not have a camera right now, or I would send photo's.
It is almost as easy to pull the motor to change the clutch, as to pull the tranny and transfer case and try to get them lined up with a new clutch. With the motor out you can work on your front diff mounts.
-
([url]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff317/heiney5/Ditch%20Witch/IMAG0543.jpg[/url])
Where did you purchase this seal?
-
Nevermind, found it at Napa.
-
Nevermind, found it at Napa.
How is your project going? Any photos, and what are you putting it in?
-
Im still waiting for the clutch.
As right now, I m grinding down the flange. Will cut off the perches, because that's about where the seal will be at. Will do some fitments when I get some time.
I have a few driverside 26 spline inner axles. But I just need one more passenger side 26 spline cv shaft. Im doing Hagen's widening mod to it, so that I can use the driverside cv shaft on either side. I also modified the sami 3rd member. Basically cut off the oil gallery, welded the holes shut.
My plan is to run lockright, 26 splines inner axles. Toyota cv shafts. So I can run larger tires. Need to do these all first before I start extending the front frame. Im doing it a little bit at a time.
-
Here are some shots of the 4 link on my Tracker.
Upper links
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THS9lDzUAYI/AAAAAAAAIAU/f9AXoPfYkr4/s800/DSCF0004.JPG)
Lower links
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THS9mseRAdI/AAAAAAAAIAc/RTUvPQVI0qw/s800/DSCF0005.JPG)
Should get drive line back tomorrow afternoon.
I moved floor hole for the transfer case shift linkage back so it was cenetered, then I moved the transmission hole back same distance (would have been much easier to move whole consul section at once). Now the shift cable won't be so jammed up and shift linkage will have space before the dash. This took all after noon.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THS9oARmBRI/AAAAAAAAIAk/d12dPSx-rVA/s800/DSCF0006.JPG)
-
Nice. I was looking into maybe do something like that upper links you did. Like the fact that you can adjust the links up and down. Keep the pics coming.
-
Nice. I was looking into maybe do something like that upper links you did. Like the fact that you can adjust the links up and down. Keep the pics coming.
It is best to have multiple points on the linkage, it does not take much to loose antisquat or go into over/under steer (on paper). That being said when Drone637 did his Sj410, we haven't tried any other adjustments since installing it. On my upper frame points, they set 1/2 inch lower than I wanted (when setting on wheels), so I had to raise the upper linkages to highest points to get the numbers back in place.
Still a ways out before it hits the road. Drive line shop having trouble finding U joints for the XL7 end, and I haven't even started on the exhaust system yet.
Sorry to have missed going to WV with your group, but had fun on the fishing trip anyways. Did you get the clutch working?
-
Yes, its installed. The tracker is running flawlessly..... I posted on NW crawlers.com Seeing if anyone wanted to go to walker again on labor day weekend. Ill probably be going there on the Sunday of that weekend. Im keeping it local since I have to work.
I was wondeirng if you had any XL7 or 4 doors Coil springs lying around? If you do, want to sell them?
-
We might have a set of rear GV springs around somewhere, but we found them to be a bit to stiff to be used. I think all the 4 door springs have been taken.
You need to convince BRD HNTR to go taller, then you could snag his rear 4 door springs and cut down front XL7 lift springs. :D
-
Im currently running XJ coils in the rear. Rides soft and the axle drops really well. I am just looking for 4 doors or XL7 front coils.
But with the XJ coils, they sits approx 2"to 3" higher than the front. Im trying to kind of level it out a little bit. I have 1.5" aluminum coil spacers in the front.
-
Im currently running XJ coils in the rear. Rides soft and the axle drops really well. I am just looking for 4 doors or XL7 front coils.
But with the XJ coils, they sits approx 2"to 3" higher than the front. Im trying to kind of level it out a little bit. I have 1.5" aluminum coil spacers in the front.
Have you got the new front diff in yet? With a 3" raise, you will need the diff lowered, or you will probably start blowing CV's when flexing. Also need to install strut spacers.
Kris found a place for springs that was reasonable, not as reasonable as used springs. Metal recycling place (Binford Metals) south of Kent had three GV's (XL7's), try them. I got some of my wiring from them.
WV is out for me, off elk hunting.
New drive line is installed. Cut shorter than I would like, but plenty of room left for flexing. Working on exhaust now, one side is blowing on the fuel lines, so don't want to run too long that way. Still have some wiring to finish up. Tried my silicone connector idea last night, have to go see how solid it is now.
-
I have not installed the steel housing yet. Im working on the bracket for the pass side. when that's finished. I will start welding everything up. Right now its tacked. Need to make sure it fits first. So far its looking good. Ill try and get a picture tomorrow.
-
A good day in the garage.
There appears to be little room for a crossover pipe for the exhaust.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THhEUq9VNWI/AAAAAAAAIBI/M6BOo1j31so/s800/DSCF0007.JPG)
And the back frame crossmember had a hump in for the exhaust system on the drivers side, so I cut it in the middle of the hump and on the passenger side. I turned it around and over, so now I have one large hump.
Big enough for duel exhaust.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THhEVtnsCuI/AAAAAAAAIBQ/YsYGrcQBHUg/s800/DSCF0008.JPG)
I used cut down 90 degree bends and welded them to the old crossover pipe stubs, leaving the 02 ports.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THhEWXjpFII/AAAAAAAAIBY/JxVV5XU7AMQ/s800/DSCF0009.JPG)
As the fuel lines and brake lines would be running right next to the exhaust pipe, I took a section of 3" exhaust pipe, cut some rings off of it, cut it in half and slipped on the 2 1/4" exhaust I am using. I welded the rings up against one side of the exhaust pipe to create about 1/2 - 3/4 gap for the heat shield.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THhEXV4NoxI/AAAAAAAAIBg/vsI2TKa2ydg/s800/DSCF0010.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THhEY9uVIII/AAAAAAAAIBw/r8f8DdtuvLc/s800/DSCF0013.JPG)
I put two mufflers on it and.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/THhEYEieXRI/AAAAAAAAIBo/j8E5nHPWqEs/s800/DSCF0011.JPG)
Little louder than I expected, does have a rasp to it when cranked up.
It is a good thing the drive line does not move sideways. Could have used smaller mufflers, but could not find any.
-
That looks really impressive. Nice work Dad!
-
Nice. I look forward seeing your rig......
-
Drone637 came up and we got a lot of small stuff done on my Tracker. It is hard not to work on it now because most of what is done shows how much closer it is to getting on the road.
We installed the bottom two 02 sensors, and it has a much better/quieter sound. Still need to make up the tail pipes, but standing behind it you can hear that it has dual exhaust.
I backed it out of garage under its own power. I did not wait for idle to drop and chirped the tires. Going to take a while before I get used to not having a clutch (just seems strange). Did not test drive, no seat, wires still hanging, exhaust not fully supported, etc., but it can move by itself.
Kris reworked the dash wiring, and speedo now works. I had to use a different take off and motor temp now works. I need to find where the oil pressure wire is. The FSM shows it going straight to dash, and I am trying to find the connector it uses. My silicone coated connector looks to be doing what I expected, so wires will be firmly held in place.
Idled it for about an hour, and with radiator elec. fan and a hood setting on it, it will get up to 201. W/o hood it gets around 190. I still have room for a bigger fan if it tends to go higher on slow trail work.
It will creep in high range, so low range should be really good. And the desire for a slower low speed w/o always slipping the clutch is what got the mtr/trans change started. I know gears would have been faster, easier, CHEAPER, but I wanted back road gears more than trail gears, and the mtr. seemed a good deal at the time.
We cleaned up half the Garage also. Now I can find stuff that falls to the floor.
Elk hunting starts next week, and I have to get all my gears ready, so no work on Tracker for a few weeks.
-
Got back from two week vacation. Elk were not in the mood, until last morning, so was more of a vacation. I was able to catch some nice trout at the lake, and spent more time in the rain than in the sun. Great Vacation
Work is progressing on the Tracker. Just before I left the starter started to give me problems, but when jumping the solenoid it would start just fine. So I was considering installing a relay to get more juice to the starter, then I found a couple of "fix for starter" threads that said same thing. Well first few starts when I got back, went fine, then starter would not fully engage, so having a few relays laying around, I installed a relay to bring juice from fuse block by battery to starter solenoid instead of from starter switch. Works great, maybe this solenoid requires a little more juice than my old switch can provide. It was easier and cheaper than either a new switch, or new solenoid.
Still have a wire mess from the crossover wiring, but it is getting smaller and have most systems I will be using now working. I am using same cooling fan control as before (using A/C switch to turn cooling fan on/off). When wiring is out of way, seats will be installed and then it is ride test time.
I will take camera to garage with me today.
-
Front diff was setting to close to oil pan, so made new mounts to relocate with more clearance. NAPA provided wrong seal so will have to wait for morning to install.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TKFykoRkGSI/AAAAAAAAIDE/9y1LQzXa47w/s800/DSCF0039.JPG)
Wiring under dash is now tucked up out of way. Relay's and Fuses will go into original position (still room).
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TKFymqH4OMI/AAAAAAAAIDU/kcQ_BMBYmHc/s800/DSCF0042.JPG)
Motor compartment is getting full, most everything is in there.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TKFylZAgvOI/AAAAAAAAIDM/cgeLBA22Udc/s800/DSCF0041.JPG)
It is getting much closer. Lots of stuff yet to do, and when I start thinking THIS WEEK something comes up and WELL MAYBE NEXT WEEK. At least motor is running much better and starts easily.
-
Front diff installed. Drivers seat installed. (You know where this is going.)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TKJ8IR7svYI/AAAAAAAAID4/q-C77jre5oA/s800/DSCF0043.JPG)
Awesome. It is not a rocket on take off, but has no problem rising to 75 mph. Speedo is off + 5 mph at 60. This is so much fun NOW. Now for the catch items, but it does run on the road. Forgot to hook up the air line to front diff, so field tests on another day. Not going to give it a roll test like the Trouble Race car.
Oh yeah, still needs hood work. I am looking for a 16V hood in Wa.
Now to clean the garage.
-
you never stop working on that rig. :laugh: pretty soon there wont be anymore modifying to do to it. It still looks good too.
-
Have to do something about the pink door though. :D
-
Yah, what happened? It is all dirty and I think I see some rust on that bumper. :laugh:
-
Yes, the Pink door, rust on bumper, and all the dirt are on catch items.
The low range TC gears were not engaging. Seems that the TC adaption that I had made only seemed to work, teeth almost engaged and would not hold with power on them. So I got another XL7 TC (2002), and the input/output shafts were smaller diameter. Changing the input shaft (and case) was not much of an item, but getting both output shafts w/ connecting chain (which was also wider) took a couple of tries to get them started (and installed) straight. Then installing the back case, and shift mechanism, it is ALMOST done. The seals looked really beat, so I removed them so I could replace them. Try finding output shaft seals for a 2005 XL7, most auto parts stores books only go to 2004 on the XL7. I know the middle case (forward shaft) seal is the same for tracker's/GV's/XL7's, but the back case output shaft seal is larger. I now have Suzuki part numbers, and will check with local Suzuki dealer Monday (online part stores do not recognize the numbers).
-
In Portland we have McGuire Bearing and some other places that have seals, bearings, chain, gears, pulley, different styles of Joints. I would say call a local place and see if you can just get one by the dimesions you need and not by numbers.
-
Front diff installed. Drivers seat installed. (You know where this is going.)
([url]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TKJ8IR7svYI/AAAAAAAAID4/q-C77jre5oA/s800/DSCF0043.JPG[/url])
Awesome. It is not a rocket on take off, but has no problem rising to 75 mph. Speedo is off + 5 mph at 60. This is so much fun NOW. Now for the catch items, but it does run on the road. Forgot to hook up the air line to front diff, so field tests on another day. Not going to give it a roll test like the Trouble Race car.
Oh yeah, still needs hood work. I am looking for a 16V hood in Wa.
Now to clean the garage.
Great to see you've got it running! Was yours a 5 speed? I've got gobs of neck snapping power (5:12 gears). Will spin both tires (spooled) uncontrollably and launch like crazy. I got it over 110 mph and decided that was plenty for me, but there was plenty more. Either you have very high expectations of what a rocket is, or something is different...
-
Great to see you've got it running! Was yours a 5 speed? I've got gobs of neck snapping power (5:12 gears). Will spin both tires (spooled) uncontrollably and launch like crazy. I got it over 110 mph and decided that was plenty for me, but there was plenty more. Either you have very high expectations of what a rocket is, or something is different...
Just running is it. It appears that I have Fail Safe issues. Torque converter will not lock, no 4th or 5th gear now, which means no OD or PWR selection. I have the 2227, 962, and 977 codes.
I had a busted Shaft Input Speed Sensor, only place I could find that could even find it was Suzuki Garage and theirs was Gold Plated ($186). Same transmission as all the other AW550's, except input shaft splines and output splines. So I found a Toyota speed sensor only $82 at NAPA, and would be here next morning, I went with it.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TNYzDrqy-yI/AAAAAAAAINk/EjExE6vUtIQ/s800/DSCF0078.JPG)
Tomorrow I open up the wiring again, and start checking voltages to find a ground or missing 12 volt input. Two weeks ago I had 4th and 5th gear, w/o torque converter lockup, so should be able to find the changes. Only moved the 4 L wires, and 4 L will prevent 5th and Torque Converter lockup. Now that I have the input shaft speed sensor, when I get the gears back, I should have lockup also.
Yes, mine is the auto 5, and it did like to cruise, even w/o lockup. 5:12's on 30X9.50"s.
I have both new seats in it, and center console. Lighting in the dash is dim, and do not have a temp. indicator yet. Temp indication coming from computer is time based, and just swings the temp gauge. I have been using the OBDII with computer to monitor engine temp while working on it.
I WOULD NOT DO ANOTHER SWAP!!!! (Without a donor vehicle to strip.)
How is yours running? Have you got the new dash in yet?
-
How is yours running? Have you got the new dash in yet?
It's running great. Every time I push the pedal I smile. I have other issues to work out. (I put the XL-7 coil springs in it for lift but they hit the calipers - no brakes! - so I opened up the back stops and now have poor turning radius. Plus I realized that I do mainly city pavement driving :-[ and the spool in the rear is making the rearend worse for wear. It's making rumbling noises when turning short in a parking lot.) I haven't finished the dash yet :( . I think I might go carbon fiber hood. I guess I have only minor experience with fiberglass so it is a bit daunting. I tried to make an aluminum one, but that ended in ugliness. I'll post pics as soon as I get it done.
Best of luck sorting out those gremlins. It sure takes mega-patience to do this kind of swap plus have issues in the end...I don't want to even think of what I'd have done...
P.S. Have you figured out how many hours you've got into it?
-
P.S. Have you figured out how many hours you've got into it?
Hours? Do not mention hours to my wife... I have more hours on the manual, than on the build, and almost as many hours trying to find parts as on the build. Setting motor, transmission, & transfer case was the easy part. I scored on another engine w/small knock in bottom that had emissions electronics on it to replace my broken ones. It was a BIG score, because my motor came out of a rear-ended vehicle (that had been sandwiched) and cooling manifold under intake was broken, the front cover on mine cracked when tightening after replacing water pump, catalytic converters were smaller, ETC.
Making wiring and connections really ate up time, and presented biggest gremlins.
I have came to the conclusion that the 1601 DTC communications failure from not having a BCM is putting the ECM in FAIL SAFE MODE, causing the TCM to do same thing resulting in only having 3rd and 4th gears and no lockup. As I said, it is not a rocket on take-off, but no slower than the old tracker was, so I can imagine what yours must be like with a first and second range working.
Now to find a BCM, with connectors/plugs. I ended up making one of the connectors for TCM, and the BCM has more connectors.
I am using Tracker radiator with electric fan, engine temp likes to run at 205 (when idling), but book says thermostat is full open then, so not worrying yet. What is your temps running at?
-
What is your temps running at?
I'm actually not sure. I've got the e-fans to kick on at 185, but they hardly ever run. Unless its hot out and I'm idling in traffic. Or if I've been using the skinny pedal a bunch, they might kick on for a few seconds at a stop. I've only got the stock XL-7 gauge (so no numbers) that doesn't go above the middle of the gauge. Sorry I can't help more. I suppose if I picked up an OBDII reader it might tell me...
-
The Tracker is now running without any codes!!! Just finished rewiring it with connectors for most of the wiring. I had two crossed wires (GRN/RED & GRN/ORN) and a couple of the power wires coming from wrong source. Once power was right I lost the 1601 communications failure Code, then I followed the FSM to diagnose the open wire (except it went to another pin) and fix it. It rolls right out, and may be hard to not enjoy the power and sound too much.
Still have to clean up wiring job, fasten everything down, fix hood, then paint and trim it out.
But it is now running.
Thanks Muskegtracker for the information you have provided.
-
I know you guys have been neck deep in other projects up there, but just curious as to the status of your build? Rteally been enjoying following this.
-
I know you guys have been neck deep in other projects up there, but just curious as to the status of your build? Rteally been enjoying following this.
It now runs and transmission is shifting. Still has a few issues and one code 2227 that I had used a resistor to fool computer. It is for barometric pressure, and weather keeps changing throwing my resistor out of calibration. With last set of parts that I got, I got the vapor vacuum canister (a huge contraption that goes under car) that has the barometric pressure sender, but because of the size I am still trying to get around it. Just realized that a MAP sending unit (which it compares for difference in throwing the Code) may work better than the resistor, and I have an extra one.
The tracker does not launch quite like my Grand Prix with the 3.8 V6, and I have not just floored it on take off, not the intended use. It had started Washington rain (just under a drizzle) and I was in town with the Tracker and I poked the throttle a little heavier than usual acceleration and Tracker wrapped up, both Tach and exhaust sounds, while just sitting at stop sign. It started to move when I let off. So when I was driving at 30 mph in Power mode (shifts more agressively) I snapped the throttle and watched the tach and speedo move rapidly, transmission shifted a gear and I was still going about 30. It will take a very light throttle in the snow I am thinking.
I have mocked up my hood changes on a beater hood, and will look great when done on the good hood. Whole thing needs new paint, as pink door from last trail run (last year) just is not right.
-
Thanks for the update! ;D
-
I will post up some photo's when I get the hood done. Going to have cracked wind shield removed, then paint it and have new w s installed with outlet pipes for the exhaust. Can't wait to make it my DD again.
-
where ya located at?..id love to take a look at your project...im in portland oregon,..just got done with a 1.8l motor swap in my 94 tracker,..been working on re-doing the 3-link in the rear on mine
-
I am in Bow, Wa. about 60 miles north of Seattle.
Always ready to show and tell, except in the garage (it REALLY needs a clean-up). And would enjoy a reason to make a run, but don't think my wife would enjoy a run clear to Portland. We really need a Big Run up in this area. There are quite a few regulars close to us.
I had modified my 3-link before I did the motor switch, and then did a 4-link during the swap. I have enjoyed the ability to just goooo when I wanted to, but have not realized how much go I have. This weekend I drove a 4 door 16v, and quickly got used to 4,000 + shifting and watching for a large space to pull out into.
How is yours with the new power?
-
im loving the new power...gets up and goes great..i raced a bone stock 4.0 jeep wrangler and he was quite amazed when a GEO beat him on 33's...lol
i had hood clearance issues as well,..i used the sport radiator and it was too big...had to cut the round crossmember off the front and put a piece of angle a bit lower..i totally didnt want a body lift!!!...i ended up using hood pins
heres a recent pic
-
You engine compartment is a little fuller now.
I have been ignoring the hood for now. Got to get back in the shop, but it was sooo nice when I got the Tracker on the road.
What are your axles? Yota's?
-
i used a samurai axle up front,..the only reason i did a sas swap was i broke a c/v axle and decided i wanted to lift it...sas was the cheapest way to get a lift and replace the broken c/v all in one...for now the sami axle will be strong enough for 33's and light wheeling...if i find a smoking deal on yotas and actually have the money at that time,..ill switch to yotas,..thing is, it cost too much to build up a set of yotas...
i also like that this is still all suzuki
-
Have you gone to moly axles, or are the stock ones holding up with the 33's?
I just looked through your build, nice work. Didn't see anything on the 1.8 though.
Are you going down to Zukfari?
-
ive got a buildup that includes the 1.8l over at zk...i need to work on the thread over here...lazy i guess...still running stock inners for now...im just carefull...this summer ill upgrade to cromo's..as far as zukfari,..i havnt made any plans yet....
-
ive got a buildup that includes the 1.8l over at zk...i need to work on the thread over here...lazy i guess...still running stock inners for now...im just carefull...this summer ill upgrade to cromo's..as far as zukfari,..i havnt made any plans yet....
Dude! You should come on out. because the Zukfari is pretty damn fun... Invite some of your ZK friends and come out for a grand ol' time. :)
-Eric
-
ive got a buildup that includes the 1.8l over at zk...i need to work on the thread over here...lazy i guess...still running stock inners for now...im just carefull...this summer ill upgrade to cromo's..as far as zukfari,..i havnt made any plans yet....
Dude! You should come on out. because the Zukfari is pretty damn fun... Invite some of your ZK friends and come out for a grand ol' time. :)
-Eric
It has been my plan since last year (when my rig wasn't running) to go this year. I do not know whether I am going to be able to get off for that WEEK, it's up to whether the project is completed if they build it. So I will be there if I can get off or am laid off, by then I will probably have to camp just outside of Salt Lake.
-
Since my skid pan went to the race car (it was too light anyway) I started acquiring a better skid pan. My nephew rolled his tracker, and he said I could have the skid pan under it for going up the mountain and hauling his rig back home. His skid pans looked like this.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXbrwoX5O9I/AAAAAAAAIX4/YUcEvvMasYY/s128/DSCF0295.JPG)
So I had generic copies made out of 3/16 plate. (The greasy ones go on the Drone's DD.)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXbrxUraNxI/AAAAAAAAIYA/wkKESlPccr4/s128/DSCF0296.JPG)
My transfer case output section hangs a little lower than the rest, so I welded the pieces together and create the lower protection for output shaft. You can see the back mount I made to fasten to the crossbrace I had raised.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXbrxyOXxsI/AAAAAAAAIYI/MzkFkxM95A4/s800/DSCF0297.JPG)
I primered it, made mounts for the front, drilled holes in lowered section to hide the bolt head and bolted it in place.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXbrySW018I/AAAAAAAAIYQ/YVmzr_SzgKg/s800/DSCF0299.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXbrzGiWgXI/AAAAAAAAIYY/-NUndNuqd50/s800/DSCF0300.JPG)
Still have to make the front section, but this is a good start.
-
Man, I like your work Birdhunter. Someday I've got to make another trip west to meet you guys.
-
Man, I like your work Birdhunter. Someday I've got to make another trip west to meet you guys.
That's how I feel about you guys too. I am hoping to meet a few at Moab this year. When you do head this way, let me know.
-
Yea' come on out bent! Would like to run some trails with ya'
-
At the rate things are going here I have the time, just not the money! :( work has been so slow I've only been averaging 25 to 30 hrs a week when I was used to 50. You know how it goes, the rich get richer, the poor end up payin for it. Some day I'm hoping to meet up with you all at Moab anyway. I may be living in my camper by then!
-
Tracker is running good, time to fix a decent hood for it. The one I scrapped together does work, so now will start to make the good one.
I had some 16 gauge metal (a little heavy) bent to 75 degrees to create the raised section. (Doesn't show well)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXowiR1KK8I/AAAAAAAAIZk/XvEEnLQjY8U/s800/DSCF0303.JPG)
Then I cut slices in them with hacksaw, so they would bend slightly. First I cut the slices at 4" intervals, but had to make the cuts every 2" to get the bend of hood lines right.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXowhxFwNYI/AAAAAAAAIZc/Ff6OoYXxqbw/s800/DSCF0302.JPG)
Next was time to clean up the area of hood to be improved.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXowjOJjRFI/AAAAAAAAIZs/uahW36z9BZs/s800/DSCF0306.JPG)
Supper time and home items to do. Will have more this afternoon.
-
Back to the skid pan. I went down to metal shop and bought a 16x32x3/16" remnant, figured out where a how much I wanted the bends to be, and had a friend bend it. Then I cut out where the lowered diff would go through the skid pan,
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXwNoizHwvI/AAAAAAAAIag/YlAl9yILRUc/s800/DSCF0307.JPG)
I used the bottom of an old cylinder I was going to throw out to cover the hole. After welding on wings as stiffeners it is getting closer to what I envisioned.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXwNmmqeTII/AAAAAAAAIaI/bVG4GtBe8po/s800/DSCF0308.JPG)
I had to cut off the section I was going to attach to the bumper, and use tabs instead. Now mounted under the Tracker.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TXwNn2fMGfI/AAAAAAAAIaY/5QmLx_8ucDw/s800/DSCF0312.JPG)
That is my new Skid Pan. Last section was $25 and IOU.
-
Installed strut stiffeners like on Trouble Race Car. Only took a couple hours. I used 1/4X2" flat bar stock, and cut them to fit.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TZvPI1HKT6I/AAAAAAAAIcM/f359uVlKFZA/s520/DSCF0318.JPG)
I had to bang a slight bend into them to make a better fit. Fitting them in place.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TZvPJkr-j3I/AAAAAAAAIcU/oGLmwM9pc6o/s520/DSCF0319.JPG)
Welding completed. They are welded on both sides of the flat stock.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TZvPKpzrD6I/AAAAAAAAIcc/h5s0sUZtsxo/s520/DSCF0321.JPG)
As the Race Car struts seemed to stay in place, These should keep my struts from flexing.
-
Is that going to stop the base where the towers are welded to the frame from bending?
I think you still need to brace at the top of the towers
Wild
-
Is that going to stop the base where the towers are welded to the frame from bending?
I think you still need to brace at the top of the towers
Wild
Bracing along the inside like this ties the upper half of the strut tower to the bottom half where it is attached directly to the frame. In order for the top half of the tower to bend it would need to pull the welds off of the frame. You could add more to the end if you wanted, but we didn't have any issues with the strut towers bending on Project Trouble.
-
What I really wanted to do was cut 2" out of the middle of the strut tower. If you reduce the height, you reduce the leverage. I am running 1 1/2" spacers that could be removed, and reduce the leverage. I just didn't have time to do it before MOAB, so probably won't get done.
Drone's Race Car was thrashed pretty hard without signs of the strut towers moving, and I know that my Tracker won't be driven that hard. If this doesn't work, then back to plan A.
-
Interesting... that must be where mine bent at. hit a jump a little too hard and now the front end sags. I just added a brace to tie the tops of the towers together and adjust it out to raise the front ride height. I looked everything over but wasn't able to see and kinks in the frame or anything. can you see the damage to the strut towers when this happens or does it just fatigue the metal to where its not rigid?
-
I have broken welds and frame right where the strut towers
are attached to the frame, that bracing is going to help, I
would like to see how that mod works out after some hard
wheeling
Wild
-
We will see how it fares in the next couple weeks. Trailering it down so there won't be any problems getting it home, once I get it to a road. And l don't intend to Hammer it. This will not stop ripping it off the frame, that takes some serious forces. Was that from jumping, or long hard stuffing it?
-
That was from high speed sand washes and some 10 years of hard wheeling,
I never did anything to the strut towers, by the time I noticed they were bending
it was too late to do anything about it.
I would do a cross tower brace or something if I had a good frame to keep it
in good shape, not I need to do some fixing and some new mods to make it
perform better with some taller tires
Wild
-
I was having problems with my locker and getting ready for Moab, so KRIS delivered Fathers Day Present early.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/TaFFwWUVZGI/AAAAAAAAIdI/mz0mJi2358s/s1152/2011-04-09_19-01-40_979.jpg)
It should be in and hooked up tomorrow.
-
ARB is installed, a new Radiator was put on the rig. And BRD HNTR took off this morning for Moab. So we'll see how everything works ever the next few weeks.
-
Your Shop Bench looks like mine......Just enough room to work on the immediate problem!!
ARE THOSE HORSE SHOES??? Are you going to throw a couple in there for GOOD LUCK??
CAPT
-
Your Shop Bench looks like mine......Just enough room to work on the immediate problem!!
ARE THOSE HORSE SHOES??? Are you going to throw a couple in there for GOOD LUCK??
CAPT
I should have. Nothing worked on my second day, thanks to the help of MH and ZW
-
Your Shop Bench looks like mine......Just enough room to work on the immediate problem!!
ARE THOSE HORSE SHOES??? Are you going to throw a couple in there for GOOD LUCK??
CAPT
I should have. Nothing worked on my second day, thanks to the help of MH and ZW
That DID NOT come out right. What I meant was Nothing worked on my second day,"Thanks for the help of MH and ZW" I was able to get to top of Moab Rim.
I had installed a new Radiator with trans cooler, one of the rubber hoses kinked causing transmission to over heat, melting my rear ARB air line. So when I engaged the rear locker (usually first) it would dump the air pressure and then no lockers. Somehow my left front axle came out just far enough to disengage from diff., so when front was not locked the left side turned, but not the axle, leaving me with one wheel drive.
I spent next day correcting issues. Axle shoved back in, air line rerouted away from any heat source, new air compressor. New bolt in back TC mount. Shortened Trans cooler rubber lines.
Had a good time rest of the trip. If I could get past my front bumper, I could climb over everything I tried, but after that second day fiasco I did not try the more extreme trails. We did get to do Poison Spider, Golden Spike, & Gold Rim with a local group, Hells Revenge, Top of the world, (fiasco on ) Moab Rim, some trails in Arches N.P., and a few trails I don't know name of.
I think I was running the smallest tires in all the groups we ran with.
Now getting ready to fix that issue. Not wanting to cut out wheel wells, I found a set of TJ springs on the scrap trailer. I tried the longer lighter looking springs on back of my Tracker. On first look they were really tall and not fitting, so I cut 1/2 of large end coil off. Then I put it in 6" vise and squeezed it smaller so it would fit in upper spring mount w/rubber insulator. I used the torch to heat the smaller end of spring and open up the coil so it would fit over the spring mount.
It may be setting a little tall, but will wait for front end work and (hopefully) larger tires before changing these springs any more. The ride is nice. I had already raise my shock mounts, so now I am sitting about the middle of the shocks. (I had been bottoming out on large bumps and drops, not now.)
(http://I cut 1/2 a coil off on the large end, then put it in vise and bent the first (large end) coil smaller, so it would fit inside upper spring mount. I used a torch to heat small end coil, so I could open the coil to fit on lower spring mount. I had already raised my shock mounts so they were not hanging below the axle mounts, or probably would have just about maxed them out.
This is what it looks like.
[img width=533 height=400]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4K0qhBwqx8Q/Tf1x4bGwgUI/AAAAAAAAI80/VIU22usASAo/s912/2011-06-18_20-39-54_8.jpg)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4K0qhBwqx8Q/Tf1x4bGwgUI/AAAAAAAAI80/VIU22usASAo/s912/2011-06-18_20-39-54_8.jpg)
I like the ride, spring rate must be close. Now there is room for some bigger tires, at least in back.
As soon as I have time, I will start front end modifications. (Race car is in garage.)
-
I have had a good time running the Tracker for this summer. Now it is time to start getting ready for next year.
I just got a good deal on a set of Pro Comp X-Terrains, which will now go on Drone 637's SJ410 so I can use his Pro Comp Xtreme's. His tires have a little more tread, but the SJ will not notice the difference, and the X-Terrains are a little meaty for road useage.
I have been running 30X9.50X15R (tire on right) and will be converting to 33X12.50X15's (tire on Left).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I5Iqq7BtnMk/Tt29AyVC3mI/AAAAAAAAJ3k/P4MYl1OX9HM/s1152/2011-12-04_09-02-39_78.jpg)
Quite a difference in physical size, and weight. I should get the tires and rims changed over tomorrow, then put my new tires and rims on and see how much it is going to take to them work. (I tried a set of 31X10.5X15's for a few weeks to get me through the snow during Hunting season. The rims had more off set than mine, so I had rubbing on some corners and bumps.)
-
The 33's are much larger than the 30"s. So here are the issue's that I am running up against.
- I had planned on doing a frame chop & drop similar to M. Hagen's, only dropping it 2" and extending it 3". (I need to drop my motor 1 1/2" so I can close the hood.)
- I am already at 14.4" to bottom of frame, and don't need to raise it any more. (It is also my DD.)
- If I move the frame forward, I have to alter the oil pan, because the crossmember will then move into same place.
- If I move the frame forward 3", when stuffing a tire it will be hitting back side of headlight basket.
- Just doing a 1" drop and 1" extension seems like a lot of work for so little gain, and I still have the oil pan issue.
As it sits now Tires can just barley clear wheel well before stuffing it in off road conditions.
Next plan is to make a plate out of 1/2" material and slide the ball joint 1" forward. I hope to gain:- 1" Tire clearance
- 1/2 lift (making it almost level)
- more caster to increase tracking ability]
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dF9Ol81mNGU/TuldyQVDSWI/AAAAAAAAJ38/KU5e6WZqtck/s1152/2011-12-14_18-30-06_488.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Azbz9bAYJaE/Tuld2aaUqgI/AAAAAAAAJ4A/W2MyRUB9jlc/s1152/2011-12-14_18-31-03_641.jpg)
But I will still have to squeeze the motor lower. (and put all the lug nuts on before road testing.)
-
I have been running 30X9.50X15R (tire on right) and will be converting to 33X12.50X15's (tire on Left).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I5Iqq7BtnMk/Tt29AyVC3mI/AAAAAAAAJ3k/P4MYl1OX9HM/s1152/2011-12-04_09-02-39_78.jpg)
Dyslexic?
LOL,,,
With the AE kit the 1.5" of forwards placement of the front axle centerline really helps, the upper strut mount also needs to be pushed forwards because it doesnt take much increase in castor to create the shopping cart wheel condition. The AE kit also moves the front strut outwards slightly to reduce camber change during front suspension travel.
-
I thought most of those who have slid the front axles forward have not noticed any negative aspect. My understanding was that it would make it track better, maybe an increase in steering pressure to turn.
Now that I see how yours was corrected, if I have problems it won't be hard to fab up something similar. Thanks for the good job on posting up your build.
-
This is what the A arm looked like before moving ball joint holes 1 1/2" forward.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M2_hka9enrY/Tu_Z6RDnkyI/AAAAAAAAJ4M/fP8azQjz_j4/s1152/2011-12-17_08-46-13_229.jpg)
And what it looks like after painting
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-axvzIN_s6JA/TvAI54IY5PI/AAAAAAAAJ4k/N5fjAo-pVI8/s1152/2011-12-19_09-38-21_43.jpg)
Just finished welding up the second A arm. After welding in the plate and drilling the holes, I plug welded the old holes.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nDfrhKjByBU/TvAHbypAyZI/AAAAAAAAJ4Y/DbOHbC3Rh-4/s1152/2011-12-19_19-51-14_143.jpg)
It does give me quite a bit more room
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B2bPy0NbovA/TvAHfHXrTLI/AAAAAAAAJ4c/HlpMsrzbofs/s1152/2011-12-19_19-52-33_792.jpg)
than before(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dF9Ol81mNGU/TuldyQVDSWI/AAAAAAAAJ38/KU5e6WZqtck/s1152/2011-12-14_18-30-06_488.jpg)
Still have to get motor to set lower, clean up some wiring issues, and modify bumper. This is not the time of year to be working on MY Project, but at least it has warmed up into the 50's.
-
Looking nice!
Moving the axle centerline forwards really opens up the tire options.
I did find that I encountered some contact between the stock 2dr brake caliper and the coil spring, when I upgraded to the vented rotors and calipers of the 4dr(they are a more compact design) I no longer had any contact issues.
-
I had that problem when I first started raising my tracker, so I cut around my spring pad and raised the outside edge 1". That made the spring sit straight w/o a bow in it, and gave me more lift. I am now running 4 dr. brakes also.
Thanks for the information anyway.
-
Looking good, aside from having to run a stock passenger side CV I like this method of ball joint movement more than the Hagen Mod I'm working on. After cutting out the stock control arms with a sawzall and replacing the hardware and bushings my wallet had taken an unexpected hit.
After further thought, I guess you could move the joint out an inch to solve that issue; and you can always modify the spring seats after too....
-
I have just received my modified right side stub axle shaft. As this goes back together it will go in. Does anyone know where to get the larger axle shaft springs? Same size as rear and 95 & up front axles. I ordered some from Suzuki and got the smaller size (pre 95). My Garage said that is all they have listed.
Talonxracer said that if you used the 4 door brakes the springs will not rub on calipers. Unless you want to straighten the spring and get a little more lift. I only went 1", but looks like you could go an easy 1 1/2".
-
did you move the knuckle/hubs forward like AE, if yes, pictures are welcome
Your topic give lot of ideas. awesome build !!!
-
did you move the knuckle/hubs forward like AE, if yes, pictures are welcome
Your topic give lot of ideas. awesome build !!!
Similar. I have seen a couple of different builds that have moved the ball joint forward. The Mr T Build by Muskegtracker is closest to what I did. Moving the ball joint forward moves the bottom of the hub forward. The photo's of before and after are about all I have. When I am fabing something like this, its Thinking, make a move, Thinking, make a move, Thinking, Thinking, weld, GRIND, weld, drill, oh yeah take a photo (to dirty take it later), done take that photo. Second time less of everything (even the photo's). Right now with engine out it appears that I will have lots of room. Should start to refit the motor sometime tomorrow, also have to fit the front diff in ( I made a new front (on input housing) mount similar to stock aluminum one, so I can use stock mount.
-
Looking great. I like the idea of moving the mount for the ball joint forward.
I believe the larger front axles weren't until 96, try looking at a 96-97 for the larger shafts.
-
Are you talking about the CV Spline count ? I have a 1995 and it is 22 spline, my 1996 is 26 splines and the intermediate shaft and the passenger side CV shaft are both noticeably larger.
BRD HNTR - I am in the same boat as you with the tires, I'm not going to be happy with the 31's any more but I am worried about excess CV breakage, did you think about 33 X 10.5's ? The BFG KM2's come in this size and its looking rather interesting given the weight savings over a 12.5" wide tire.
-
Are you talking about the CV Spline count ? I have a 1995 and it is 22 spline, my 1996 is 26 splines and the intermediate shaft and the passenger side CV shaft are both noticeably larger.
BRD HNTR - I am in the same boat as you with the tires, I'm not going to be happy with the 31's any more but I am worried about excess CV breakage, did you think about 33 X 10.5's ? The BFG KM2's come in this size and its looking rather interesting given the weight savings over a 12.5" wide tire.
How about the 235/85r/16 KM2 ?
-
Looking great. I like the idea of moving the mount for the ball joint forward.
I believe the larger front axles weren't until 96, try looking at a 96-97 for the larger shafts.
I was talking about the increased spline count (sometimes words fail me).
Ok, my mistake. I thought that it changed in 95. I will try again with 98, if it is a different number I will order some of them.
I got a good deal on a set of 33X12.5x15 Pro Comp XTerrains (a little to meaty for road useage), and swapped them on Drone637's (mostly trail) SJ410 for his 33X12.5X15 Pro Comp Xteremes. So I am going to run with those, unless Kris is not happy with the performance of the XTerrains.
I will see how the CV's hold up. That is one reason I had the right side axle modification, it will be easier to change out on the trail now and only have to carry one style of CV.
-
One thing to be aware of when going from 22 -> 26 spline is the length of the drivers side stub shaft.
When I did mine, the 26 spline shaft was about 1/4" longer than the 22 spline one (I don't recall tho where the 26 spline shaft came from, and possibly could have been from a "sport"?)
-
I am already running 26 spline, I needed the wire spring for the axles. I found them in Chevy parts, and they are expensive for their size. Chevy part #91174735. The 22 spline ones were almost half the price.
Well I lowered the motor mounts 1" and hood will now fit. Now I have to modify crossmember/A arm mount or the oil pan. Also lots of camber (top of wheel leaning out). I am going to slot these struts and see how much to get it in shape with level (I need new struts, so can hack on these).
Time to start spending money (again).
-
With the larger tires I had to reset my rear bump stops. I have been running bump stop off my 2006 Silverado mounted on the axle and bumping the frame.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A9b3OCnRSrE/Tvv4p6rhjhI/AAAAAAAAJ4w/9xdrCXVD_Tg/s1152/2011-12-28_17-02-30_689.jpg)
I used a 2"X1/4"X7" angle iron to mount across the bottom of the upper spring mount.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BOvG9Js2MLc/Tvv4nphCMpI/AAAAAAAAJ4s/8OJNVn3vfzA/s1152/2011-12-28_17-02-11_721.jpg)
Now the Tracker setting on bump stop, with no spring, gives me just over 1 1/2" of clearance in wheel opening.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eSzxCyvUhxE/Tvv4sA9JiVI/AAAAAAAAJ40/9wx8g126sMo/s1152/2011-12-28_17-03-24_553.jpg)
How it looks with spring installed. I have 3 1/2" to bump stop.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xYEP3hQvaJQ/Tvv4usGW1QI/AAAAAAAAJ44/46tCJucx79A/s640/2011-12-28_17-13-46_818.jpg)
With the motor lowered there was no room for the last beefy mount I had made for the back of the front diff. So I created a new one similar to the the factory one. I had planned on using factory one, but there weren't any available at local yards. This one should not bend.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o6zV4AAlN6Y/Tvv4yYcMnnI/AAAAAAAAJ48/vmV1hB6fTqU/s1152/2011-12-28_17-57-36_625.jpg)
Now things should start going back together.
-
Motor back in for tests, have clearance for pan, diff. mount, and hood fits. Lots of toe out on wheels, and more camber than before. So I moved ball joints out 3/4" both sides. Now I can fit drivers side CV's on both sides, toe on wheels is almost straight, camber looks close also.
Rear shock were shot, so I made new shock mounts and turned them 90 degrees so the bolt is running with the wheels. This should prevent side stress from flexing the rear end. As I increased the length of my lower links to 30 + inches there won't be as sharp of arch for side stress that way.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HP1QzeTgX9I/Twe4m5PeJHI/AAAAAAAAJ58/hqPeI9pzDfo/s1152/2012-01-06_15-47-43_460.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mjYNt9WD4Jg/Twe4pZBy-UI/AAAAAAAAJ6A/HI7n2LpA-dA/s1152/2012-01-06_15-48-55_566.jpg)
With rear shocks replaced there is actually resistance when I bounce in back of Tracker.
Now I have to replace the Struts, as they are almost as bad as the shocks were. When compressed they do not raise on their own. Probably going with KYB, and their lifetime warranty. I'll see how good they are.
-
Removed the front spring, and stuffed it with tires on. I am clear on straight ahead, but make contact with back of front wheel well when turning out on either side. I am working on raising bottom of headlight housing to allow running on bump stop without tire contact. I should not be able to hit bump stop, but don't want to bounce and have tires hit.
-
This is what headlight frame looked like
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lZ3BgIJuZM4/Tw3vYwZwZ-I/AAAAAAAAJ6U/bmoCXtYlirI/s1152/2012-01-11_09-41-37_89.jpg)
And this is the modified headlight frame.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gNlh4IQqp40/Tw3vW3dn_II/AAAAAAAAJ6Q/Osk97mcvU6U/s1152/2012-01-11_09-41-15_418.jpg)
Stuffed & sitting on bump stop
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y72i9ToJ0C0/Tw3vSY978PI/AAAAAAAAJ6I/-L385Vh-7Ow/s1152/2012-01-11_09-36-32_773.jpg)
It comes this close to frame body mount
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-79-w7202Zrg/Tw3vU6t-t1I/AAAAAAAAJ6M/z-rdjBAeiwU/s1152/2012-01-11_09-37-31_656.jpg)
It looks like 33's is the largest I could go w/o more modifications.
-
Looks good!
-
Right On BRD HNTR! Excellent choice of front end mod. ;) I have been gone for a while and this morning I caught myself up on your build. I did not add any sort of camber correction when I did the mod and did notice an improvement in driving. My brother (TheZuke) purchased and installed the Alter Ego lift. He contacted Zukination and asked why they felt they needed to add the knuckle relocation bracket. They didn't have a straight answer, but mumbled something about vibration issues. I never had any vibration issues though...(I drove it up to 60 mph or so in 4x4 with no problem.) Anyway, the build is coming along well. I look forward to seeing how you stuff that engine in lower.
P.S. I'm seriously considering Easter in Moab this year. I've put almost 20,000 kms on since the engine install and I haven't hit slick rock yet...Man!
-
Right On BRD HNTR! Excellent choice of front end mod. ;) I have been gone for a while and this morning I caught myself up on your build. I did not add any sort of camber correction when I did the mod and did notice an improvement in driving. My brother (TheZuke) purchased and installed the Alter Ego lift. He contacted Zukination and asked why they felt they needed to add the knuckle relocation bracket. They didn't have a straight answer, but mumbled something about vibration issues. I never had any vibration issues though...(I drove it up to 60 mph or so in 4x4 with no problem.) Anyway, the build is coming along well. I look forward to seeing how you stuff that engine in lower.
P.S. I'm seriously considering Easter in Moab this year. I've put almost 20,000 kms on since the engine install and I haven't hit slick rock yet...Man!
I was going to stretch the frame, then went back and reread your modification. So far it is much easier than what I had planned.
I massaged it just another inch deeper, then modified the back outside corner of oil pan. It appears that I now have as much room as before (which wasn't much). I have started bolting motor/tranny back in today, trying to catch the things that I didn't like, and am going to do a better job of organizing the wiring jumble under dash. I trimmed the overlapping instrument pieces (so dash lights will show through), and glued them together so it looks flat.
Since I am riding taller I have been told that I need a roll cage before MOAB.
Three of us are heading down with our rigs for the week. I would really like to see you & your rig, so hope you can make it. Last year we stayed in Pack Creek Campground, have not made reservations yet but were going to try for there again.
-
Tracker is finally started back together. Dash is out so I can install the required Sport Cage. Here is how I am doing the back section.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OyLNa_a7xhY/Tyin2u4NxeI/AAAAAAAAJ7k/fFMcL57cjyw/s128/DSCF0642.JPG)
And after a day of work.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xQLRb3XN2Vs/TyinzuqdbsI/AAAAAAAAJ7c/R83D7iyxR5w/s800/DSCF0643.JPG)
I am hoping to incorporate the Sport Cage as the support for my rag top. Trying to get height, width, and length to be same as back soft top support is not an easy task. I have it close, but still some tweaking to do do, then take it out and finish welding and painting, only to install it and find it has moved more than I thought it would.
-
Great build and write up. Where do you get the time? Must be retired! ;D
-
Great build and write up. Where do you get the time? Must be retired! ;D
I thought I was retired, but these modifications seem to take more time than I thought, almost like work. Could be starting them during Holiday season not a good time for devoting to projects, could be poor weather for working in garage, could be birds flying requiring a hunting trip, COULD BE an old man doesn't work as fast as he thought he could.
Right now trying to get back bar on cage to replace soft top back support is being technical. May not be quite the same using 1 1/2" DOM instead of the 1/2" tube.
Thanks for the comment. It seemed to me that I wasn't getting much accomplished.
-
Will you be welding the cage to the body or the frame ? It is hard to tell from the pictures if it is connected to the frame. If it is connected to the body do you plan to plate it ?
-
I am going to run supports from the frame with 5/8" rubber (from stall mats) pads for isolation. For the front support I will also run a brace off the body mount that I had already plated. The right rear support is going to require an offset support because the Fuel fill is in the way. I will use heavier material to compensate for the offset, photo's when I get that part done. Right now I am just bolting it to floor because it will have to come out for welding some areas and painting. While my Tracker has very little rust, the floors are Very thin, and would require large pads to be effective.
I am calling this a Sports Cage because I will not have all the cross braces like we put on Project Trouble Race Car. I will have gussets on most corner joints.
-
Made progress on Sport Cage today. The top fits much better after more tweeking of tube placement.
The back half is mostly welded. I will be working on windshield cross tubes tomorrow, have the upper one ready to install.
This is what the back looks like now, I will be adding some gussets tomorrow.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2UbrdJCMNjQ/TynwQa8iosI/AAAAAAAAJ8A/HdA6c0jgeLw/s640/DSCF0644.JPG)
Another angle.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jkGMJT4ETj0/TynwSsuoMKI/AAAAAAAAJ8I/R17Cl_UMsdw/s640/DSCF0649.JPG)
-
i very like the idea of "sport Cage" not to much tube.
-
i very like the idea of "sport Cage" not to much tube.
So far I have used most of 3 19' X 1 1/2 DOM tubing.
The Big difference between my Sport Cage and a Full Roll Cage is that I am not running full diagonal braces across the top & back, also not having side bars across the doors. I am gusseting all sides of windshield cross tubes and side tubes to roll bar. Tonight I have all of it out to finish welding gussets & painting and will take photos of the cage by itself.
This is kind of like your frame, it seems the more you do the more you find you need to do. And it is still not done, maybe tomorrow.
-
Just throwing paint on Sport Cage. It looks better with paint on it, still a couple of windows that I will catch with next coat.
Front section
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mZOa2Pg0uyY/Tyxk2EEdnVI/AAAAAAAAJ80/BoGEeiL6Ijw/s640/DSCF0655.JPG)
Back section
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KpZCQEUkzOw/TyxkqJICznI/AAAAAAAAJ8o/-dfELisag74/s640/DSCF0654.JPG)
-
well i think it all looks great. lookin forward to wheelin soon.need to break breakables before moab :)
-
well i think it all looks great. lookin forward to wheelin soon.need to break breakables before moab :)
It is going back together now. I am looking forward to wheelin also. I have to bend some of the frame mounts, and then I will not need the bender for a while. I was hoping to have mine at least running by this weekend, but do not think that is going to happen. I have at least one day of other obligations to do, which makes this a short week for me.
Waiting to hear what you are going to do to the Sammy?
-
Sport cage is in Tracker and welded together.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1hjzgX-yyBo/TzXxo_1FWQI/AAAAAAAAJ9k/DhHkS7oUp6Y/s400/DSCF0685.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E1SUbDYN0QM/TzXxiTbCISI/AAAAAAAAJ9U/PhUqBsU6830/s400/DSCF0683.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kyGZWpjjkw0/TzXxsuUcXVI/AAAAAAAAJ9s/RrjJG3PkdpI/s400/DSCF0686.JPG)
I have one side of the frame to Sport cage braces done, still need to do the three on other side.
Front frame brace to sport cage mount, tied to body mount to strengthen the long horizontal mount.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8H1Bmmw8-2E/TzXxlmZP-TI/AAAAAAAAJ9c/MN9Gl8RdNT8/s328/DSCF0684.JPG)
Roll bar frame brace
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YIiSIvi9-AE/TzXzyjgb2aI/AAAAAAAAJ94/wuAea4jhT4k/s328/DSCF0681.JPG)
Back hoop frame brace
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xnHanvl6V8I/TzXz2rrmI8I/AAAAAAAAJ-A/FeE-ADAjA9I/s328/DSCF0682.JPG)
I have radiator in and electric fan in place. Notice the aluminum tubing to cool powering steering.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oi0mmmVWUXA/TzHnhDk816I/AAAAAAAAJ9A/3l1diogEt7M/s800/DSCF0679.JPG) I will see if it does any good.
New mount for power steering reservoir. I need to find a shorter radiator overflow reservoir.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K06B06f03lA/TzHnlhyRVNI/AAAAAAAAJ9I/zPtKjRMH6BA/s328/DSCF0680.JPG)
Lots more to do.
-
Just set the dash in, and couldn't have been much better fit. There is room in front of brace across top of dash for defrost to work and to clean whole windshield.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-25dLzy2UrVY/T0FdxSjxHRI/AAAAAAAAETI/myK8h1hq5bM/s256/IMGP2222.JPG) (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cp7Ve3aENJY/T0FdoRZgDGI/AAAAAAAAETA/3E_bV4_MwGk/s256/IMGP2220.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2SyeRXs_5kM/T0FdtaLFXHI/AAAAAAAAETE/F9Msjca0Glo/s800/IMGP2221.JPG)
Now to hook everything up.
-
Great job Brd Hntr!
-
Great jog Brd Hntr!
Bentparts, thanks for the compliment. Sometimes it comes out as good as imagined. Other than some over spray the Sport Cage could not have finished much better.
I now have the dash and supports for it bolted in and most wiring connected. Initial test and motor still starts great and sounds awesome w/o mufflers.
We trimmed almost 2" off the back side of one wheel well and folded that back 3/4". That will make the wheel well 2 1/2" larger, not much but will prevent any fender damage if turning when wheel is on bump stops. I can now cap the ends of rock sliders and cut other fender to match.
I may be able to test drive it this weekend???
-
To many projects going.
I have been working non stop on Tracker last two weeks. I have one fender trimmed and back on Tracker. I can go full stuff and turn w/o rubbing on the 33X12.5X15's.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-23UEVrDIUiI/T1DAWiTD0hI/AAAAAAAAEUk/T9BnSoxU9Nk/s1152/2012-02-29_10-45-00_413.JPG)
At start of project I caught Herculiner on floor on fire when welding on outside wheel well, that cought my wiring on fire. I only burned one computer connector (fortunately I had removed computers) and fused some wires together. After replacing burned wires and connector, I have had shift solenoid codes on every startup. Worked for a day and half trying to find 12v from wrong place (hot, on=start, accessories), or missing ground. Finally removed all wiring mess and proceeded to rewire all computers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aDlBw_CoNy8/T1C_-S_xniI/AAAAAAAAEUc/N_Gcr26IVEQ/s800/DSCF0700.JPG)
Almost done. Three computers should plug into Tracker wiring system today. I should have done it this way to begin with, but the birds nest worked until the fire. That Herculiner sure torches of easily, besides not wearing for crap and catching a lot of mud and dirt.
-
I just see is lot of wire and I have a headache the electric is really not my thing.
-
This is what can happen when you transplant a motor with out wiring. I had some loose connections that plagued me with random communication issues, finally solved that. Now working on shift solenoid high voltage (that was not a problem before these modifications).
-
You get your CAN bus issue fixed?
-
That sure is a stroke of bad luck on the fire, but hey, at least this way you get to tidy up all the wiring and get it right.
This thread must be getting close to some kind of record for longevity and posted responses, closing in on 200!
-
That sure is a stroke of bad luck on the fire, but hey, at least this way you get to tidy up all the wiring and get it right.
This thread must be getting close to some kind of record for longevity and posted responses, closing in on 200!
The worst part is I appeared to have fried my B shift solenoid. I was just thinking how lucky I have been in not having burned one of the computers in all the testing I have done. I have a complete set of computers, but not another shift solenoid. (And two months ago I passed up a complete 2.7 w/auto and tc, because it didn't have any wiring/computers. Knew better!!) I am just getting this one where I want it, don't want to start another project for a while.
I now have wiring tucked up somewhat neat. Should have had it in place when dash was out. It is hard working on your knees, looking up under the dash.
Dash and all its wiring appear to be working. I need to install seats, trim and install passenger fender, bumper, and winch. Will try a road test tomorrow to see how it works w/o B shift solenoid. Then have to find one an install it.
Yes Derek, the CAN Bus issues were due to poor contacts on the power input wires to the three computers. When one of the three would blink, it would throw the code. It appears all three were blinking at some point. When I soldered them together, those codes went away.
-
Makes sense. Low voltage will through a lot of funny codes sometimes. will your reader do OBD 1 ? Not that I have any problem but was a pain when my computer went out and then the replacement was bad also I was pulling my hair out for awhile to.
-
Makes sense. Low voltage will through a lot of funny codes sometimes. will your reader do OBD 1 ? Not that I have any problem but was a pain when my computer went out and then the replacement was bad also I was pulling my hair out for awhile to.
No, only OBD 2.
I could not have done it w/o a reader. I know they have the OBD 2 readers that you can read with your phone starting at $24, maybe they have the OBD 1 also.
You were a big help in checking for those codes. It was wearing me down, and your description and methods let me know I was approaching the problem correctly, and where the problem wasn't.
-
Still working to get this series done. I can not find an outlet that has the B shift solenoid for sale, other than Suzuki dealer. I thought I had one at Pick n Pull, but someone beat me to transmission.
Transmission Outlet in Burlington will install the solenoid P&L (they do not sell parts) for $200. Suzuki wants $195 for the solenoid. Should have scheduled it when they gave me a price. Now can't get it in until Monday.
It does move, and there are still lots of stuff to do, before any trail work.
I posted up how I did the Wheel wells in separate project, but here is how it sets now with 33's. It does need a paint job before MOAB. I am going to make it there this year (I was starting to get concerned).
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Of7Ha8gbhHc/T2JQzQu0TSI/AAAAAAAAEWk/X4kUaMImTso/s1152/2012-03-15_13-24-03_516.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0kFAi5252Zc/T2JQsrhrrrI/AAAAAAAAEWc/bxH9QNTfjdQ/s1152/2012-03-15_13-23-43_633.jpg)
-
realy nice work ;)
-
Thanks.
I am finally at the point were the days that I can see a difference in what I have done are more than what seems to be going backward.
You did beat me to a coat of paint. It is still too cold to paint here. Going to have to really stoke up the stove for a while before throwing it on applying it.
I have shortened the side pieces on the front bumper so it will now fit w/o hitting tires. Also put reinforcement on the clevice mounts, so they can only swing forward/backward.
Will work on wiring winch this weekend. Then I can mount both it and the bumper. I have ordered the Daystar rollers for the fairlead, and the new rope that will be the winch.
-
So whats still original dad? looks great get some test in before the trip.
-
So whats still original dad? looks great get some test in before the trip.
The main body (mostly) and drivers door. Not bad for a ride that I can drive the backroads and go hunting/fishing in.
I hoped to be running trails this weekend, but can't get into transmission shop until Monday morning. Doesn't leave much time for testing.
Kind of like a fishing boat.
-
Kris found a Shift solenoid should be here on Monday. So now I am prepping for a prime coat on Tracker. I had some rust starting in spots on body, so I am going to prime with Epoxy Primer. That should seal it so moisture does not get down to base metal again.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CaQDzTQreLs/T23YBNh6_VI/AAAAAAAAEYI/2LkV9f1oM_I/s1152/2012-03-23_14-37-26_622.jpg)
Just getting started, on the second day of sunshine in the Northwest.
-
It's got a great stance! Good look. Well done. Too bad about the wire fire...
-
We threw a coat of epoxy primer on the bottom half Saturday. It does look sharp all white. Probably photo's tomorrow.
Finally got it running without codes. Still no problem lighting up 33's. Transmission connection was just loose enough to cause problems along with a broken (wires not insulation) power wire, and a ground with two strands. Now for some testing. I will get an air fitting for my back ARB tomorrow, then some climbing test, some highway miles, and start packing for MOAB.
muskegtracker, are you going to make it to Moab this year? It was in the 70's all last week, it will be nice to get above 50 degrees.
-
Sorry if I missed this, are you leaving it white ?
-
Sorry if I missed this, are you leaving it white ?
No, I will paint it Green again. I was getting some rust where I had gone down to metal for repairs, and the lacquer primer was not sealing the moisture out. I have a few gallons of Epoxy primer, so for now it is primed, all but the top of windshield and roof line. Still needs some sanding and gouge repairs, but that can be done with the Lacquer primer when I paint it. It was looking pretty cobbled up with the different body parts and primer colors. This isn't a bad Ten Foot Paint Job, or bad base coat.
-
There are earlier photos of color and changes in body parts so not recapping them.
My brother came over and helped with the Epoxy primer coat we (he) put on my Tracker.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kolUO-9I7nw/T3MnWzziqoI/AAAAAAAAADQ/q8VxekaSkhc/s1152/2012-03-24_16-40-20_600.jpg)
After getting it running I stopped by a friends shop to show him how it has turned out so far. Had to take the fork lift and see how high before lifting second tire.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--xzOQfyc6Kw/T3Mna1QmCpI/AAAAAAAAADY/4yUs2CIlsV0/s1152/2012-03-27_09-58-38_468.jpg)
It can do 17" in front, and 15" in back.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XG0WGWFrNZk/T3MndfgYdMI/AAAAAAAAADg/LYTZuJKZna4/s1152/2012-03-27_09-59-00_765.jpg)
-
Now that it is all together, it looks sharp!
-
Getting that primer on the rig really makes it look sharp!
-
Yes it looks much better one color. We used one quart of primer to cover this, and could use maybe another 1/2 cup to finish up the roof and touch ups. When I painted it the Silverado Green, I used 1 gallon and could have used another quart, the metallic paints take a lot more.
It looks clean, will see what it looks like with the red dust on it.
-
We threw a coat of epoxy primer on the bottom half Saturday. It does look sharp all white. Probably photo's tomorrow.
Finally got it running without codes. Still no problem lighting up 33's. Transmission connection was just loose enough to cause problems along with a broken (wires not insulation) power wire, and a ground with two strands. Now for some testing. I will get an air fitting for my back ARB tomorrow, then some climbing test, some highway miles, and start packing for MOAB.
muskegtracker, are you going to make it to Moab this year? It was in the 70's all last week, it will be nice to get above 50 degrees.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I really wanted to go this year, but I'm moving and have too much to do. Hope you're having a great time and all the mods are working well for you!
-
Mods have been a success. Tracker has run good while in Moab, Drone637's Tracker project has worked just as good. he ha posted some photo's on Adventure forum.
-
where did you mount your upper links for your rear 4 link
thanks
-
Hey, I really haven't done much the last two years, so I haven't lost much of my overly long build. I tried a set of 37's under it, and wasn't much room to turn them, but was food for thought.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VD83UlN1ZZSNoqdxuPemfmNStcWKzr2P405LsaYsApo=w338-h190-p-no) I repainted it again, and it is now Grey.
Trip to Moab April 015
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KgSTnKF6MBT8dl3inQCVq1i_DSvqGrGhgfW_APJnjc8=w402-h227-p-no)
I also added some off road lights to the front bumper
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JC5WydFghSE/U9kupgbSOyI/AAAAAAAABHY/c0FBtA1IhYk/w1515-h853-no/IMG_20140730_103610077.jpg)
-
Really glad to see the zuki being used and driven, still looking good.
-
It is my DD. Averaging right at 20 mpg.
I just installed a trailer electrical harness that was Plug & Play. Got it off Amazon for $23, and was listed for 89-95 Sidekick, 96-99 Tracker and Sidekick, also newer models. The electrical connector was located behind left tail light, and back about 14" from tail light, taped to the wiring. I removed tape and plugged it in, and wiped an area clean (with paint thinner), removed double side tape sticker and stuck the electrical controller up against the wheel well. Then there is a 2" square grommet where wires went out of body that I slit so I could force the Four Pin Flat Connector out through. Spot tied the wiring to the cross tube, and now I have trailer lights.
-
I have a trailer harness that connected the same way. I have used it often, but even towing at or below the gross vehicle limit, the mileage plummets.
-
Throw a pontoon boat on the roof, and try to do 60 mph. (good thing for the motor swap)
I am building a trailer for it 4' x 6', running on 5 x 5.5 wheels, with a tongue that I can jack knife w/o damage. It is heavier than intended, but should be good for some off road camping/fishing trips.
-
Are you building it to M416 dimensions? I bought an axle from one for the same purpose. The PO pulled it to mount an axle that matched his Land Cruiser bolt pattern.
I have 3x3x0.125 for the frame, but still need springs and hangers. I will most likely use CJ-3 springs, like the M416.
If it is heavier than expected, go with trailer brakes. I go through brakes much faster when I use the trailer a lot.
-
M416 which I had not thought of should be even heavier than mine. I got a donated CostCo trailer 5?x8' and cut it down to 4X6 so I could carry a full sheet of plywood with the tailgate up or down. Replaced the cheap light weight axle with an axle I built, that had 5X5.5 bolt pattern with same tread width as my tracker. I had picked up a set of weld wheels (look very close to what I am running on my Tracker) for spares, so they became the wheels. I need to fill about 11" gap on floor on both sides, and repaint whole trailer.
I am just in the middle of TOO MANY PROJECTS, and the trailer has lost priorities since it looks like I will not make the Divide Ride.
-
I may be going with the fiberglass M416 or Jeep tubs to save weight. The other option is using 18mm Baltic birch for a removable expedition style box. I have several 5x5 sheets of 18mm and some slightly smaller 18mm.
I also have too many projects and struggle with which one to spend the time / money on.
I just accepted another position and won't be able to make the Divide Drive.
-
The trailer looks great. The pics were not visible last night.
-
The trailer looks great. The pics were not visible last night.
You must have viewed it before I made the change. I am trying to use the ZW photo loader, which may be simpler in the long run. I had been loading my photos to Google+ and then putting the photo address in the image loader.
-
and the trailer has lost priorities since it looks like I will not make the Divide Ride.
Hopefully those trails along the Divide aren't going anywhere, guys. There are higher priorities in life. Doesn't mean you guys can't try to shoot the Divide drive next year.
I like that trailer too. I think the old military 1/4 ton "jeep" trailers would be the bomb for a trailer for our trucks. Nice and light, durable as hell with a pintle hitch for angles.
-
I have been chasing wiring issues since I burnt up some wiring while welding a LONG time ago. The main issue has been O2 sensors no output, or low voltage. But when I check O2 sensors with OBD2 computer it shows good signal, and cleared alarms stay cleared for one time or two weeks.
Hopefully the issue has been solved.
I stopped at a local fishing hole and my Tracker quit. Tried to start and low battery, just barely turned over, so got a jump and did make it home with motor running like crap. Only alarms on computer were my familiar 02 sensors, but battery voltage was 9.5 volts running.
Replaced the alternator and has been running a week, no Codes, shifts consistent, motor running great. And looking back there were indications of low voltage that should have caused me to check Alternator output, but battery had always started Tracker, so why check battery voltage.
Long story, but what appears to be gremlins could be low voltage indications. (just a thought)
-
Chasing electrical issues is always a chore. My alternator is slowly producing less voltage and will need to be replaced soon.
It is good to see you back on the board.
I looked at the Kizashi alternators for a used swap, but they have a different mounting configuration. I am not sure we have the same bolt holes in the 1.8.
I have found a replacement alternator that is good for 140 amps and will most likely go with it.
-
My 2.7 stock is 90 amp, way more than the 93 alternator was at 55 amp. I have LED off road lights, and do not winch very often, so trying to fit an even bigger alternator in my very limited space was not worth the effort.
I have been here all along, just do not have much to report on yet. Of course hunting season is coming up soon, so that will slow down any project work.
-
uhmmm hunting season .... sept 10 opens here project tracker should be done just need to get alignment, paint rims and done for the yr gl this season
-
My Tracker tires were getting low on tread, so, so I have replaced them with Toyo 33X12.5X15 MT'S. Alignment shop said most steering joints were bad, so I am now replacing everything after the steering box.
As my passenger side diff seal has started leaking again, I am going to modify the housing so that I can put a poly bushing in it behind the seal. I have tried to put one in before, but there was not enough room, so I will replace the socket with a modified one with more room.
As my outer CV boot was rubbing on the bolt heads for the ball joint, I am changing the position of the ball joints to above the mounting from below the plate. This will effectively lower the ball joint 1 1/4", I will soon know if that is too much.
-
My Tracker tires were getting low on tread, so, so I have replaced them with Toyo 33X12.5X15 MT'S. Alignment shop said most steering joints were bad, so I am now replacing everything after the steering box.
As my passenger side diff seal has started leaking again, I am going to modify the housing so that I can put a poly bushing in it behind the seal. I have tried to put one in before, but there was not enough room, so I will replace the socket with a modified one with more room.
As my outer CV boot was rubbing on the bolt heads for the ball joint, I am changing the position of the ball joints to above the mounting from below the plate. This will effectively lower the ball joint 1 1/4", I will soon know if that is too much.
BRD HNT wish you were closer, wouldn't mind sharing some shop space with you. It would be interesting kicking around ideas on how to solve some of those nagging issues that need to be taken care of after an extensive mod.
Could probably even give a little crash coarse on the machines.
Terry
-
My Tracker tires were getting low on tread, so, so I have replaced them with Toyo 33X12.5X15 MT'S. Alignment shop said most steering joints were bad, so I am now replacing everything after the steering box.
As my passenger side diff seal has started leaking again, I am going to modify the housing so that I can put a poly bushing in it behind the seal. I have tried to put one in before, but there was not enough room, so I will replace the socket with a modified one with more room.
As my outer CV boot was rubbing on the bolt heads for the ball joint, I am changing the position of the ball joints to above the mounting from below the plate. This will effectively lower the ball joint 1 1/4", I will soon know if that is too much.
BRD HNT wish you were closer, wouldn't mind sharing some shop space with you. It would be interesting kicking around ideas on how to solve some of those nagging issues that need to be taken care of after an extensive mod.
Could probably even give a little crash coarse on the machines.
Terry
Terry, Yes it could be interesting having someone with more knowledge and abilities to kick around ideas and issues to what I like to do. I am open to suggestion, or instructions, on what I may be missing or don't know (I offer my ideas to others often enough), and you can pm me to discuss what could be sensitive or controversial.
Most of my building is born of a necessity to have my rig do something better than it does stock, and knowledge that I can't solve that necessity without trying something. I often add "Every modification begets another modification" to my posts because learning either encourages more changes or requires changes to what has been done.
-
I have had issues with the Front Diff passenger side seal leaking, and as my diff is fabbed out of a Sami rear diff I had a really had a hard time finding the correct seal last time I was in Moab. So I decided to remedy the situation by installing a poly bushing inside of the seal area so axle stub had more to ride on than the seal. I figured that I would make the seal same as stock Tracker this time, which would be a bore of 2.441". Turns out that schedule 40 pipe 2 1/2" is 2.47 inside diameter and outside diameter of a plug cut by a 2 1/2" hole saw is very close to the same. after cleaning up the diff housing I cut the bearing housing out of the diff with torch, then clean it up with a cone grinder. I measured the distance from outside housing to differential gears (when installed), and cut my pipe to fit. I had acquired a piece of high density polyurethane to cut a bushing out of, so first cut it to 3/4" thickness, then cut it with 2 1/2" hole saw, and cut the plug with a 1 3/8" hole saw, and have a bushing to install inside of my seal. After sliding the cleaned up new polyurethane bushing inside my housing bore and slid stub axle into that, (and having third member inside diff housing) I put bearing housing and stub axle into place. As the schedule 40 pipe section was larger than the old bearing housing the gap was close, and it was tacked at several points to hold in place. Remove everything and weld in place. As the polyurethane bushing was just a snug fit, I put several small tack welds towards the back of the new housing bore to keep the bushing from sliding back into differential. Clean up housing and finally drive the bushing into place install gears, check clearances again, install seal and stub axle, and put it back on Tracker.
Running good, and no leaks. Must have some oil on lense of camera.
-
good work BRD .... and can I be invited on this guru chat..... :laugh:
-
I have been getting O2 Bank 1 & 2 Sensor 1 alarms frequently, so figured it was wiring issues coming back to haunt me. So instead of stripping wiring harness apart I ran new wires all the way to all four sensors (no common wires now), so the issue will be easier to identify. Seemed to work for about a week, then alarms started again, so back to the O2 relay, and found the power input to relay coil was broke down to last few strands. This was also main power to ignition, so clean it up and solder back in place on fuse block. Runs much better now, but intermittent O2 alarms are still active, so grabbed another O2 sensor off the bench that used the same wiring plug as my pre cat sensors. Even an ignorant mechanic can find something once in a while. That O2 sensor gave O2 readings on startup, where "old" sensors started giving signals around two miles out. As both O2 sensors were doing same thing, and were not always alarming at same time, and were both only around two years old, I had been thinking it had to be wiring; WRONG.
Good news Amazon has upstream Sensors for $25 that fit, not universal. Ordered two.
-
Glad that you were able to identify the problem. I keep thinking of doing an engine swap, but mine is still going strong and it will be so much easier to stick with a J model.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
-
It is best to really identify the problem first. The wiring I had installed for O2 sensors did eliminate what I thought the problem was, and repairing the breaking wire really improved the performance, as should the new O2 sensors. We drive cars for years without replacing the sensors, so the ones that I bought a couple years ago should have lasted (and not been the problem).
I can agree with you, if it is not broke why modify it.?? I was going to do lower gears in the TC, but this drive train tempted me with close to same price (I thought). Guess I keep thinking the next swap will be easier and better. When it is running right it is awesome, and even with the mostly broken wires when I got over 70mph it was in the power and just cruised with lots of throttle left (not that I would drive that fast routinely).
-
I had big plans for my Sport this week and last, while I had time at home. Unfortunately, the weather and the house have kept me from it.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
-
I had big plans for my Sport this week and last, while I have time at home. Unfortunately, the weather and the house have kept me from it.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Isn't that the truth? Kind of like Time & Money, never together.
Sports could be a tempting rig, with the little extra space in the engine bay. Don't stop by my place, it only took about 20 minutes for Beagle..t to get infected with "it can fit, Im going for it".
-
The tempting part for me is knowing there are factory V6 engines in the same frame and body. Too bad they were all overseas.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
-
hahaha :laugh: and ya that's why I haven't been back
-
hahaha :laugh: and ya that's why I haven't been back
Guess that means I will have to go up there, after archery season. You will have most of the bugs out by then.
I received my new O2 sensors, and one only reads half the )2 of the other one. Installed another bench sensor and got good readings. Contacted Amazon and the supplier, another 02 sensor will be on the way soon. Still running much smoother and idles down much faster on cold startups. And it doesn't drop out of 5th gear as often either.
-
brd your always welcome up here :). you sure your cats are still good? I should have all bugs out by sept 10... that's when my hunting season starts
-
brd your always welcome up here :). you sure your cats are still good? I should have all bugs out by sept 10... that's when my hunting season starts
My number one Cat is new last year, they other one is obviously suspect. but that shouldn't have caused the O2 to have dropped. Both bench O2's have indicated approximately same O2 sensors,but newer one thinks the the O2 is half, the others If it wasn't so tight, I would switch O2 positions and verify. ,
-
ya tight in there for sure.... I got a lot more room than I expected
-
It has been a while since I have made any real modifications, not to say they haven't been needed. My Tracker has had a response on lag on freeway ruts that seems to hve increased with the heavier tires. Also when I slid my axle back for the 33's clearance I never changed the spring seat and have had noisy spring popping and groaning. So it is time for minor changes.
First and easiest is to correct the spring seats. But it is setting on the trailing arm connection. and I am thinking the reason for my lag on freeway ruts is triangulation or very little of it on my bottom links. So I can get both of these in the same not so minor work.
In able to improve the lower link triangulation is to move the front frame connection from outside the frame to inside the frame.
Using my present trailing arms requires that the front frame mount would be about 8 inches inside the frame, and it needs to not flex allowing axle movement. So I made a crossmember to mount the linkage tie points. And running dual exhaust which is running alongside the frame both sides is starting to complicate a minor modification. Tan Zuk just said
"Really have to think 100 moves ahead when planning where parts need to live and play nice with their neighbors.
OR
You will find yourself scratching your head a whole lot more coming up with a solution.
Crossmember is 2"x4" tubing and exhaust is 2 1/4" so a 3" sleeved hole in each side will be needed also.
It all took longer than I thought, and the exhaust is not done. Mock up should have been more thorough. But highway performance is good, no exhaust from the crossmembe back (including mufflers) is not. Better photo's and ideas tomorrow.
-
I think you will notice that if the links are connected in the middle points, and they are, there isn't much room for the exhaust pipe if the linkages run outward. I was thinking that as the exhaust was turning up at that point there might be enough room to squeeze it in. Probably not. I will see tomorrow.
But handling was improved enough to continue with this.
-
So BRD, how have the new mounting points worked on the rear arms? Any pics of the completed setup?
-
I am looking forward to hearing more, as well. I am ready to push my rear axle back and inch or so. I will can prefab everything, using the axle from my wrecked Sport and some new parts.
Did you make your lower trailing arms?
-
It has been a winter of issues for me. The new crossmember did help with the response to tire ruts on the freeway. But it appears that other factors may have been more influential. It appears that my steering box was ever so slightly loose. Too long of bolts were bottoming out when tightening. Also back DS control arm bushing was shot. Also cracks on frame crumple zone that have been repaired and plated. So hopefully those will take care of steering issues.
I was changing out timing chain, tensioners, and spokets, and ran motor with broken oil pump sproket. Then timing chain skipped a couple teeth and stopped turning over.
As I have years of wiring issues I decided to follow my advise and get a donor vehicle and start over. Piece of cake as I already know where everything fits.
So I went through hunting season without my Tracker. Tore motor tranny TC and all wiring out., and bought an 06 XL7 with 120K miles and one dent in it.
Right now I have almost all the wiring in my Tracker, new motor mounts, motor, transmission, TC with electric shift, all in place. As motor sets a little different, I have clearance issues with front driveline. It does start and run, but radiator and other items still need fitting.
To top off this drawn out project I dropped my guard and allowed a flu bug to catch up with me. Been wasted for a week now and just trying to get back to the garage.
-
Get well soon. I am glad to see you back on the forum.
-
wow that sounds like a very rough winter for you hope you get better soon and get the tracker up and running again ....I know you it wont be long and you will be there
-
Good to hear that you are making progress! The timing chain system on those motors is a little bit out there isn’t it?
-
Good to hear that you are making progress! The timing chain system on those motors is a little bit out there isn’t it?
The timing chains setup seems pretty complex in with colored links and dot alignments. The colored links are only an initial alignment, and after one revolution you may not see that correct alignment again. (Obviously those marks will after many revolutions would eventually have to be correct again, but seeing them in alignment may not happen.) The dot marks do alignment every four revolutions. And there are two half moon keys on the crankshaft pulley and the back one rotated out twice on me, pushing into and breaking the oil pump sprocket.
-
The PO of my ‘Kick bought his daughter a Tracker with a 2.5. He pulled the motor out to reseal the oil pan and replaced the timing chain components and resealed the timing cover. There are like 4 chains, correct?
-
The PO of my ‘Kick bought his daughter a Tracker with a 2.5. He pulled the motor out to reseal the oil pan and replaced the timing chain components and resealed the timing cover. There are like 4 chains, correct?
Yes.
-
Working on Tracker was productive. There is a broken wire between the BCM and junction of BCM, ECM, TCM, After finding the open wire, I ran a jumper wire from TCM to BCM to proved it fixed the communication issues. After a permanent jumper is installed, I can finish putting it back together. Motor sounds good.
-
good to hear. is it going to be a wiring nightmare like you last motor or did you use the full harness?
-
I took the advise I have been giving everyone, that it is easier to do a complete swap. It is easier, but not that much. I had to find a broken wire on the C-Buss, and just jumpered across from the TCM to effect a fix. As I Do Not have ABS, Air Bags, TPMS, I am working out issues that create alarms on the dash. I don't know whether I can create a decent looking Dash pod, or whether I will just run the inputs into my modified dash. Of course it fell on the floor and cracked the clear plastic front.
I put the XL7 shift linkage in, and it is too tall, so now I have to change it out with my older linkage. I shifted into reverse and chirped the tires, same thing going to drive. Of course my garage floor is pretty smooth so not that big of a deal, but it does engage.
The wiring does look much better than my coupled mess, everywhere. I am tying up the dash wiring, and have most of motor compartment in place. Not much room left there. I have been saying two more weeks for at least a month and half.
At least now it is running without an alarm.
I want to have it ready before your Whipsay Run. (I wanted to get up there and do a snow run, but I have been slower than I thought I would be. Old man syndrome.)
-
still no idea when that is going to happen, seeing if Eric wants to come up with the Oregon guys but they are traveling through Montana as its a shorter distance but will definitely try and figure something out for the summer months. if you don't rush it then you will get all the bugs out instead of finding them out when its the worst time
-
BRD HNTR - How did you setup the air to your lockers? Are you running the ARB compressor or another one? Did you add a manifold and connections for airing up, airing down, etc?
-
BRD HNTR - How did you setup the air to your lockers? Are you running the ARB compressor or another one? Did you add a manifold and connections for airing up, airing down, etc?
When I installed my first ARB and even the second ARB I ran an air compressor from a Lincoln for seats, and a cheap emergency air compressor for airing up my tires. It worked fine and I still have it on the bench. On my first trip to Moab, I was having trouble with non functioning ARB's, so I figured it was the insufficient air compressor that I had, and I purchased a better compressor from ARB. The ARB compressor I got is capable of running continously for long periods time at pressures under (I think it was) 30 psi. So now it is the only compressor I have on board. Also it was not the air compressor I had that was at issue, I had over heated the poly airline and when I put 100 psi on it, it blew a hole in line that would almost close at times making ARB's work sometimes. I have my ARB compressor mounted under drivers seat, with lines going out the shift lever hole for front locker and emergency brake hole for rear locker. Also have an air line fitting on compressor before valves to lockers that I can plug a coiled air line into for airing up tires. Compressor is a little noisy when running, but I am outside when airing up tires. It takes a couple seconds to pressureize the compressor to 105 psi, and I can get both lockers locked without compressor cycling back on. When running locked or turning lockers back on, compressor will cycle, repressurizing system to 105 psi, which usually takes about two seconds. So you can hear it go brrup occasionally when I am locked. The lockers have seals so they should not use much air, but each time they are activated it takes a small amount of air.
ARB lir line is 5mm, and very sensitive to heat, so a hot line with 105 psi will rupture quickly. ARB also has extreme air lines for higher tempeatjure extreme use which are priced accordingly. Now I run my front air line, which goes over my automatic transmission through a rubber fuel hose to insulate it from the potential heat, and have not had any further blowouts. My rear air line has not had any issues. 5 mm poly hose is hard to find on the road, so I carry a splice kit, and I put a coil in the line at compressor incase I have to make a trail repair.
The ARB compressor came with a wiring harness that was wired for Air compressor power, then rear ARB, then front ARB. Compressor has to be on for power to rear switch, and rear ARB has to be on for power to front switch. I modified my harness so when compressor is on, front or rear can be activated as I choose.
-
Thanks BRD HNTR. I am preparing to lock both ends of my Sport.
I have two compressors and I'm trying to decide where they will go. I can fit both compressors under the seat or one compressor under the hood near the brake booster. I would prefer to run both compressors.
I found a kit that has BSPT male thread to AN-3 adapters and braided stainless lines to replace the fragile blue hose. I have thought about running a hard line down the frame with AN /JIC fittings on each end. That would allow me to use short sections of soft line on each end.
The switches will most likely go where my ashtray is. It's the perfect width for 5 ARB / Carling style switches.
-
Ridjobradi, I ran 1/8 nylon tubing for a while, and found no difference in the function of the ARB's compared to the larger 5mm. The smaller nylon has a better tolerance to heat, and fittings are almost the same. The through the wall differentia fitting was a concern to me so I went back to the 5mm tubing.
I made all arms. (I have made almost everything on my Tracker.) My lower arms were 29" and I made robust outside frame mounts with 4 holes for adjustments. (I could not detect differences in using the various holes, but the 4 link calculator shows differences.) I recently made a new crossmember to attach my lower links more towards the center and am currently running that. (During recent motor swap I discovered that my ds back control arm bushing was shot, which probably was the cause of wandering that was the reason for changing lower link points.) I do like the 4 link suspension,
-
Not sure if you check this thread still. but any advice on how you tied the HVAC into the new XL7 harness?
-
I grabbed a hot wire and used it for the original heater controls, and I have removed the AC, not room for heat exchanger. I do have an electrical drain that is hard to find. I found two relays that were stuck closed in XL7 relay box.
-
Tried to PM this but the Capatcha thing doesnt work.
I really appreciate your advice. I am getting really close to starting my swap- I have my harness out of the XL7 (Entire harness), engine and trans are out, and about every component from the XL7 in my garage waiting haha...
The HVAC is my main concern. Did you leave a piece of the original harness for this? You said you grabbed a hot wire, so I am guessing that is the way you did it.
Another question is the speedo-did you use the XL7 speedo? If so how did you mount it (Looks like its going to need some custom work!)