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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: daddyizzle on September 18, 2008, 03:47:24 PM
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I stumbled across this method and wanted to dunk some parts in a tank and give it a shot. Basically, you use a battery charger, and baking soda?, some kind of electrode, water, and a big bucket or in my case, I have a big tub to use for some big parts. The battery charger I have is one of those napa types with the big jumper cables and rolls around with two wheels and a handle that will do 6 volt or 12 volt low, medium or high settings and has a 90 minute timer on it but if I turn the timer knob just right, it will stay on indefinitely. The tub is about 40 inches wide and 2 feet deep abs. (I have some big parts?)
I don't want to electrocute myself or blow up anything. :o :o :police: >:D Will this charger do the trick? Baking soda? How much? Any tips?
-Adam ;D
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Check THIS (http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm) link out.
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http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm (http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm)
Pretty stock description - similar to the one on SpikeTY's Muscle Cars website.
Oh and here is a working version of Rileysowner's link:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm (http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm)
;)
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(http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/images/Electrolysis001.jpg)
This picture shows the process pretty well. I'm confused though. Why two battery chargers, why multiple electrodes, and why is the part suspended by copper wire?
So for a big part, I don't understand. Why does the part need to be suspended? I think the clamps on my charger are copper- is that bad? I'm also afraid my charger might put out too many amps as it is not a trickle charger like the ones pictured seem to be.
I was thinking of maybe setting the part in a wood jig in the water or something that doesn't float would be better with part of it sticking out of the water to connect the negative clamp too. Maybe just sit it in the water resting on the bottom with one end propped up above the water for the clamp. Since my charger is a bigger charger, maybe it puts out high amps and would work better than the two little ones. It doesn't say what kind of amps being used.
Would that work for a big part?
Alot of guys reading this might try this so we sure don't want to blow up anybody's home or electrocute them or their pet (granted that's a worse case scenario) with incomplete info or understanding.
-Adam ;D
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This picture shows the process pretty well. I'm confused though. Why two battery chargers, why multiple electrodes, and why is the part suspended by copper wire?
So for a big part, I don't understand. Why does the part need to be suspended? I think the clamps on my charger are copper- is that bad? I'm also afraid my charger might put out too many amps as it is not a trickle charger like the ones pictured seem to be.
I was thinking of maybe setting the part in a wood jig in the water or something that doesn't float would be better with part of it sticking out of the water to connect the negative clamp too. Maybe just sit it in the water resting on the bottom with one end propped up above the water for the clamp. Since my charger is a bigger charger, maybe it puts out high amps and would work better than the two little ones. It doesn't say what kind of amps being used.
Would that work for a big part?
Alot of guys reading this might try this so we sure don't want to blow up anybody's home or electrocute them or their pet (granted that's a worse case scenario) with incomplete info or understanding.
OK, here is my guess as to what is going on in the pic submitted by daddyizzle
I think the whole deal with two battery chargers and multiple electrodes is one of speeding up the process. I think they were going for even current flow. I don't think this is necessary, but I don't see a problem with it so long as you plug both chargers into the same outlet to insure they are on the same phase.
I'd stick to one charger. Amps don't really matter as the process stops when the rust is gone. Just let it work until it's done!
As for suspending by copper wire; I'm going to give the benefit of the doubt and say that what we are seeing is rusty wire, not copper. Copper in the solution is bad. Copper clamped to the electrodes/workpiece is OK.
Suspending the workpiece may allow better contact with solution, or if the item is large, you could do one half at a time, etc.
As far as safety goes, I would add this:
- Make sure to have real good ventilation. Outdoors in a sheltered area would be best (porch, etc.)
- Remember, this produces hydrogen gas, so unplug the charger before touching the clamps to avoid arcing :o
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my wife found out what I'm planning on doing and already said that I have to do it outside and that the basement is out of the question Haha! My tub is big enough to do a few parts so I wonder if there is a way to do multiple parts overnight??
-Adam
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...I wonder if there is a way to do multiple parts overnight??
Just hook jumpers to your negative cable and connect to each part. Like in the pic, except only with the negative. The process may be slowed a bit, but it will still work.
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Suspending the part in the air is probably done in order to avoid having a piece of the part sitting on the ground, thus giving you better coverage/immersion. Not sure what adjective to use...
It probably isn't to important. In the video's I've seen of this being done at the Smithsonian they didn't have anything suspended.
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Now if I could only find a tub big enough for my whole sunrunner body ;D
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Now if I could only find a tub big enough for my whole sunrunner body ;D
Any swimming pools nearby? :D
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i thought about that, then thought about how sad I would be when there was nothing left in the pool. rust is all that holds my trackick together haha
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I got it all hooked up and it's cool as shit!!! :o :o :o I'll post some pictures if I can get them in. I've got it at 12 volt 10 amp dc with 4 parts in the water leaning up against the tub wall and a few small concrete blocks so nothing touches or falls in. It's bubbling quite a bit and not only is all the rust dissolving but the paint (which I tried to grind and sand off but it was taking forever) is coming off in sheets.
I may have a new hobby on my hands :laugh: :laugh:
I have about $20 - $30 in misc stuff + I already had an abs doggie wash tub.
3 besse clamps
2 concrete paver blocks
4 10 amp (or 30?amp) test alligator clips
about 8 feet of 12 guage wire
3 18 inch pieces of 1/2 inch rebar (I had it laying around so I used it)
at least 20 gallons of water
4 lbs of baking soda
1 suitable charger
1 doggie tub
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I got it all hooked up and it's cool as shit!!! [snip]
... I may have a new hobby on my hands :laugh: :laugh: [snip]
I'm gonna be rummaging around looking for rusty stuff! ;D
Normally I'll have all kinds of rusty stuff, but now I'll be putting steel outside to rust on purpose just to play! :laugh:
So I see you used three positive electrodes. Did you try it both ways (with just one and with three) or did you just set this up and call it good when it started working? ;D
Just wondering because I really don't think three are necessary. ???
But I ain't be no scientist. :P
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I got it all hooked up and it's cool as shit!!! [snip]
... I may have a new hobby on my hands :laugh: :laugh: [snip]
So I see you used three positive electrodes. Did you try it both ways (with just one and with three) or did you just set this up and call it good when it started working? ;D
Just wondering because I really don't think three are necessary. ???
But I ain't be no scientist. :P
I only hooked it up like that because I saw something like that in a picture. As far as that goes, I don't think three are necessary but thought a good idea since I'm using a fair amount of water and the rebar corrodes. I read something to the effect that the rebar draws the rust from the parts. I don't know if that's true either. My big question is what the baking soda does, what would happen without any baking soda, and if there is a better substance to put in the water?
-Adam ;D
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ive been reading the articles that you guys linked and this is fascinating :o something so simple and i never heard of it. i have a old fiberglass full size long bed cap i picked up yesterday for FREE and i was going to use that and try to put a whole lot of parts in it. but i don't know if it be ok in fiberglass? im thinking worst come to worst the circuit breaker will go and no harm done. also i have stainless steel pipe i got out of the scrap pile at the metal shop near by. do u think pipe would work for a electrode or does it have to be a solid rod? thanks
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The baking soda is a catalyst to aid the reaction. You can use Arm and Hammer washing soda, and it is actually recommended. As to what is happening is not that the rust is being removed, but rather than the metal is actually being un-oxidized, that is, it is turning back to iron. The more re-bar electrodes the better because the reaction is more or less line of sight, that is, if a straight line from the rebar would not be hitting a face of the rusty metal, it won't react very well if at all. In other words, the more electrodes the better. I personally would suggest sticking with re-bar as it will degrade over time and it is cheap. Also the one article mentions that using stainless will render the water/washing soda mix toxic and is supposedly illegal.
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alright sweet thanks very much