ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Grand Vitara, Vitara, Chevy Tracker (Gen. 2 Platform) 1999-2005 => Topic started by: BackWoodsTracker on November 21, 2008, 08:51:41 PM
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First off, how long does it take the average Joe, or Dan in this case, to pull a motor from a 2001 Tracker? I have the manual, and I've spent over two hours just finding all the wires to unplug. Then when I finally find em, I can't get the things to separate >:(. That's not my problem though, I think I have all the wires taken care of, and no I didn't just cut em, thought about it, but didn't. My problem is getting the right axle shaft to let go of the diff housing. The book says:
8) Using 2 large screwdrivers as levers, pull out right side drive
shaft joint from differential and dismount housing assembly from
vehicle.
Well, I'm not having any luck with that. Is there a trick to this, or am I being punished for not tightening my stuff after a weekend of fun? Anything else I should think about whilst the motor is out? I'm hoping it'll just need a new crank kit, if not it may need a 4.3!
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I'm confused. Why are you pulling the axles?
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"I'm confused. Why are you pulling the axles?"
I'm following the book, and glad I downloaded it! I questioned this part also, but it looks as if it has to come out to be able to move the motor far enough forward to get it out. I'm now looking for a steel one to put back in, maybe some of those 5.12's at the same time. I'm also going to do the timing chain while the motor is out. Any thoughts on other stuff I should replace on a 155,000 mile motor? Would it be worth a bore & stroke, port & polish?
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I don't recall if I had to remove the diff to get the V6 out, but maybe. Definitely didn't when removing the L4, although I possibly may have unbolted it and dropped it a bit.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/poky-dot/Frankentracker/PICT0008.jpg)
Still, even if you do need to remove it, just drop it all in one piece. Easy.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/poky-dot/Frankentracker/PICT0307.jpg)
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I miss working on my 75 Blazer!
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Easy, Take a screw driver put it at the 3 oclock position. wedge it in there and get someone to hold it if possible. Take another screw driver at the 6-8 oclock pos and pry. if it does not come out use a chisel. Watch out when you pull it out make sure the C clip is still on the cv axle, and it does not fall out in the diff.
Why are you pulling the front diff to pull the motor. Pull the two side mounts off lock wire the diff to hang to allow oil pan to pull out.
Motor should take 3-6 horus to pull out.
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Does that 3-6 hours include beer breaks? It took me that long to get the wires all found and disconnected. I took the diff out like beercheck shows in his pics. The motor is locked pretty solid, can it come out with the torq converter attached? I can turn the motor, but it's extremely hard. Gettin at the bolts to the converter will be hard! I think that other than the converter bolts, it's ready to come out. I'm going to try to pull the oil pan off and get the main & crank bearings out and see if I can turn it over to remove those bolts. I'll be back in a while, after I give up again.
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I found the very back-top of the engine wanted to get hung up on the cowl in front of the firewall. Raising the rear of the truck as high as possible (with the motor hanging from the cherry picker) helped a whole lot in getting everything to clear. You may not have the same difficulty as you're not bringing it out with the transmission still attached.
can it come out with the torq converter attached?
Don't see why not...
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/poky-dot/Frankentracker/PICT0304.jpg)
Don't forget the fuel lines.
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OK, it's out. I ended up taking the oil pan off and that gave me the room to pry the motor over better. Big slivers in the pan :'(. I think it might be more than a crank. I'm going to tear it all down, way too much metal in there. I'll get some pics in the morning, it's my daughters birthday and I'm not allowed in the garage today!
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Congrats, and happy birthday.
Bummer about the metal. That's some bad luck.
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Yes, the metal is a bit upsetting, I'll be tearing it apart after work, scratch that , after the Packer game tonight. I may just buy a 2.7 from Jasper if this motor is shot. By the way, it took me a bit over 8 hours to get the motor out, but that includes a beer runs and a lot of breaks to rest the back. Having four disks taken out has slowed me down a bit, I can't stay bent over for too long or I can't get upright for a while.
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I think that a Jasper is going to run you around $3K.
How about good / used from a local wrecking yard or even e-bay? I see a lot of them being offered for less than $1K.You can search locally here using your Zip.
http://car-part.com/
I'm with you though. Replacing rather than fixing is proly the way to go.
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Yes, the metal is a bit upsetting, I'll be tearing it apart after work, scratch that , after the Packer game tonight. I may just buy a 2.7 from Jasper if this motor is shot. By the way, it took me a bit over 8 hours to get the motor out, but that includes a beer runs and a lot of breaks to rest the back. Having four disks taken out has slowed me down a bit, I can't stay bent over for too long or I can't get upright for a while.
Just to let you know. The 2.5 and 2.7 have different wiring harness eh, totaly different pin out for one, And if you put a 2.7 on the 2.5 ecu it will lean out very lean A/F. Its also has a different IAC and Different MAF. You can run the 2.7 on the 2.5 but with no no mods and on 89-91. I just even noticed with the mods on my 2.5 when i run 87 oct i drop to 13.9 A/F which is a bit lean. 12.9-13.1 is where you want to be at WOT.
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That's good info!
Couldn't one swap out (from the 2.5 donor) the corresponding components (MAF, etc) to marry the 2.7 to the existing ECU / connectors?
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Just to let you know. The 2.5 and 2.7 have different wiring harness eh, totaly different pin out for one, And if you put a 2.7 on the 2.5 ecu it will lean out very lean A/F. Its also has a different IAC and Different MAF. You can run the 2.7 on the 2.5 but with no no mods and on 89-91. I just even noticed with the mods on my 2.5 when i run 87 oct i drop to 13.9 A/F which is a bit lean. 12.9-13.1 is where you want to be at WOT.
I seem to recall you mentioning that swapping the intake and injectors from the 2.5 onto the 2.7 did a lot of good. If that's still the case, let me know what parts I'd be after.
Backwoods: Depending on a) what JDMCRX says and b) what path you take, I'm strongly interested in some of your potentially leftover bits.
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Here is what you could do.
Get a 2.7 motor slap it in, make the maf wire longer, Get a 2.7ecu with male wiring pig tale and then cut your oem wiring harness and solder all 108 wires and your set, or you could simply get a 2.7 wiring harness.
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Im going to be swapping my H27 soon, but mine has ported heads,bigger tb,extrude hone intake manifold and Intake,long tube headers, exhaust,elec fan and alot more. Ill see what happens.
Just make sure what ever motor you get get the ecu and wiring.Its like doing a KLZE into a MX3 the 1.8 to the 2.5.
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what ever motor you get get the ecu and wiring
But the ECU's are different depending on transmission type (auto / standard), which narrows the ECU search, no?
That, and wouldn't the ECU donor be sensitive to specific year (years?) applicability?
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Just reading this has made my decision to either rebuild or get a Jasper rebuilt. I was plenty happy with the 2.5's power, I'll save the time and money to put towards some gears. I still want to find a steel diff for the front. I've gotta make some time to walk a few scrap yards in the area. I'm not a fan of used motors, you never know how the owner treated it. I know of a few people that brag about just adding oil, never changing it. It'd be my luck to get that motor.
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either rebuild or get a Jasper rebuilt
I hear ya'! ;)
On the rebuild avenue...do a really good forensic exam on what you've got first, is my suggestion. You can quickly meet or maybe even EXCEED the cost of a re-man engine if you have crank and head issues, on top of the usual cylinder rebore, valve job, pistons, bearings, gaskets and alike costs.
At least w/the reman you'll have a tested and warrantied engine replacement! :) (That assumes that you have a rebuildable core to exchange that you may have to ship back ($'s ?), if that is how Jasper is running things these days.
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Yes the ECU has to be 2.7 5 speed and 2.7 auto. the trans controller is in the ecu. Good luck finding 5 speed xl7 they were rare.
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Well, I can get a reman through a local shop for $3,399($600 core) or a crank kit for around $600(no core). I haven't tore it down all the way yet, but if it's too bad, $3,400 isn't too bad for a 3 year unlimited mile warranty. Hell, it might be worth it anyway!
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The price sounds like alot but remeber this motor has 5 timing chains alone 24 lifters and the parts are not cheap for this motor at all.
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A re-man "short block" may be another option too (a bottom end w/ crank & pistons, minus cyl heads). ;)
Man, you've got a hard decision to make. Pump in nearly $4K into a 2002' model ride. :-\
Is the REST of the vehicle in prime condition (trans, diff's, body, frame, A/C & upholstery)?
Ya' know...you could proly buy THREE used auto wrecker engines for that. Maybe even hear the donor engine run prior to buying. I see low mileage & running GV's for sale on e-bay a lot that have been totaled from accident / structural damage only, with all running gear operable.
I personally picked up a 60K 2.5 from a 2000' that was front end wrecked off e-bay. I WANTED just the leather seats (which I got) and he was parting the whole car out. It was in Fla. and my son lived an hour away. He went and inspected the seats prior to my bidding, and I got them. The engine was still installed and my son heard it run. Long story short...I got IT as well for $850 SHIPPED. It sits in the shop as my "spare", trans and all.
(http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/40640/2952003270050818847S500x500Q85.jpg)
Just some thoughts on options....
Where are you located? There ARE some deals out there.
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I'm located between Milwaukee and Chicago. The rest of the 2001 Tracker is in great shape so putting $4,000 into it isn't out of the question for me. I have explained my reservations about buying a used motor, I know it doesn't make sense to some, but I have had bad luck in the past with low milage used stuff. I bought a 2002 Malibu for my wife. It had 27,000 when we got it and it was nothing but problems. I also bought a motor for a K5 Blazer from a low milage vehicle, it lasted me not even a month. With that being said, I'll either rebuild the one I have or buy one with a 3 year warranty. Besides, while looking for a steel diff in the scrap yards, all I saw was motors totally taken apart. I was also told $200 for the steel diff, didn't I see on here that I could get a brand spankin new one for like $280?
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Just get a used motor, thats all i would do. Used motor change the front crank seal and rear main and if timing cover is leaking change that, new plugs, and run synthetic init and ur set.
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Well, now my wife saw this thread, and I have to look into the junk yard motor. But, she did say what ever I save from the Jasper difference, I can spend on lifting it ;D!!!
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Well, now my wife saw this thread
GREAT! Now we're in trouble. ::)
Below is a PARTIAL list of 2.5's for a 2001' Tracker, distanced out from Rockland, Ill Zip code. When you run your own search it won't display all jumbled up like this
Play with the search engine to fine tune parameters. Make lots on inquires, ask to hear run if you can, get return / warranty info in writing, take your time and SHOP.
Also check your local paper and Auto Trader for the parting out of wrecks. I'll watch e-bay for you. ;)
Year
Part
Model Description Miles Part
Grade Stock# US
Price Dealer Info Dist
mile
2002
Engine
Geo Tracker DNT START 080189 $Call B and H Auto Parts Salvage and Recycling, Inc. USA-IL(Rockford) E-mail 1-815-226-1616 4
2002
Engine
Geo Tracker -2.5,AOD,2/02,4WD,VI N 4 OR L,UTR J81482 $1400.09 LKQ - Star Auto Parts USA-WI(Janesville) E-mail 1-800-362-9451 28
2004
Engine
Geo Tracker -2.5L,VIN 4,RIV,4X2(CRFS) G80472 $1400.09 LKQ - Star Auto Parts USA-WI(Janesville) E-mail 1-800-362-9451 28
2002
Engine
Geo Tracker 281888 $1350 Midwestern Auto Parts USA-IL(Elgin) E-mail 1-847-695-5600 45
2001
Engine
Geo Tracker 2.5L,AOD,9/00,4X4 107,001 B 080266 $1250 Bruno's Auto Salvage, LLC - RP+ USA-WI(Franksville) Request_Quote 877-227-8934 / 414-858-9123 Request_Insurance_Quote
66
2003
Engine
Geo Tracker 2.5L (VIN 4, 8th digit)- (AFS) 69,000 W82536 $1400.09 LKQ - Smart Parts USA-WI(Hustisford) E-mail 1-800-349-5850 79
2003
Engine
Geo Tracker -2.5L (VIN 4 OR L)-(CCOF) 91, W81657 $1150.09 LKQ - Smart Parts USA-WI(Hustisford) E-mail 1-800-349-5850 79
2003
Engine
Geo Tracker 2.5L (VIN 4, 8TH DIGIT)- (CCOF) 81,000 W81781 $1150.09 LKQ - Smart Parts USA-WI(Hustisford) E-mail 1-800-349-5850 79
2001
Engine
Geo Tracker 118,000 P45119 $1150 I-80 Auto Parts Co., Inc. USA-IN(Gary) Request_Quote 1-866-480-7278 Request_Insurance_Quote
97
2003
Engine
Geo Tracker 2.5 AT RAN 92,000 08288B $1220 Diamond Auto Parts - QRP Partner USA-WI(Fond-duLac) E-mail 1-888-236-7731 110
2001
Engine
2.5,ABS,AC,AT,3SPD,4 X4,4 88,8-00 75,728 A 080111 $1092.5 Cleveland Auto Sales & Salvage RP+ Member USA-WI(Cleveland) Request_Quote 1-800-278-2178 Request_Insurance_Quote 132
2004
Engine
Geo Tracker RAN GOOD 93 K 93,619 B H327 $1000 Veldman's Auto Parts USA-IN(South-Bend) E-mail 1-800-888-3821 146
2004
Engine
Geo Tracker CHECK OUT FRT 59,000 A 080248 $Call Auto Parts City USA-IN(South-Bend) E-mail 1-888-827-2713 146
2002
Engine
Geo Tracker 2.5L,AOD,2/02,MFI,4X 4,TESTED 74,000 00002036 $1320 Badger Motors - QRP Partner, ARAPro USA-WI(Wisconsin-Rapids) Request_Quote 1-800-236-4395 Request_Insurance_Quote
148
2003
Engine
Geo Tracker 2-03,4X4,ZR-2,-337 V5021 $1000 Norb's Auto Salvage RP+ Member USA-WI(Denmark) Request_Quote 1-800-236-2524 Request_Insurance_Quote
From:
http://car-part.com/ (http://car-part.com/)
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Nice site, the one listed in Franksville is only about 5 miles from me, and I'll be driving through Janesville over the weekend. I have time to look. I am now the not so proud owner of a mini-van.
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Cool!
You can expand that search to just Zuki 2.5's as well. ;)
Have fun shopping!
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Well, I have my new used motor on it's way. I found a 35,000 mile motor for $1,200 so I jumped on it. Here's a pic of what made me decide to do it. I don't think the bottom of the oil pan should look like this!
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo280/BackWoodsTracker/PB240088.jpg)
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Holy guacamole! :o
Ya' got some scrap metal there. Too bad recycling prices are down. ;D
I was hoping you'd up-date! Congtrats on the new / used engine. Keep us posted. ;)
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Still interested in your old intake and injectors.
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Still interested in your old intake and injectors.
It sure doesn't look like I'll be needing them. Always happy to help out a guy who'll put them to use. Of course the second I ship them out, I'll end up needing them, but make me an offer.
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Still interested in your old intake and injectors.
It sure doesn't look like I'll be needing them. Always happy to help out a guy who'll put them to use. Of course the second I ship them out, I'll end up needing them, but make me an offer.
Brother, isn't that always how it goes.
Gimme a little bit to verify the exact parts list and I'll send you a PM.
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Don't worry, I have a price in mind, and if you go too high, I'll knock it down to what I'm thinking for you.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo280/BackWoodsTracker/PC100094.jpg)
Do you want the whole thing as it sits, or do I need to pull more stuff off it?
EDIT: I have to keep the wiring, they cut every wire on the new motor for me.
Edit#2: They only cut the wires that stay with the vehicle, so I can send it out as it sits in the pic. The thing is, they broke all the electrical shit that gets pluged into so I have to swap out most of my old crap. The injectors are still intact, wires and all, just not much else electrical. Do you want the throttle body and stuff with it, or should I take that off?
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Don't worry, I have a price in mind, and if you go too high, I'll knock it down to what I'm thinking for you.
Do you want the whole thing as it sits, or do I need to pull more stuff off it?
EDIT: I have to keep the wiring, they cut every wire on the new motor for me.
Edit#2: They only cut the wires that stay with the vehicle, so I can send it out as it sits in the pic. The thing is, they broke all the electrical shit that gets pluged into so I have to swap out most of my old crap. The injectors are still intact, wires and all, just not much else electrical. Do you want the throttle body and stuff with it, or should I take that off?
Lack of wiring shouldn't be a problem for me. Hopefully. Never looked at the 2.5 and 2.7 side-by-side before, though, so I'm sure some sort of surprise or another will pop up.
Definitely want the throttle body, as -- as I understand it -- that's the major thing (other than injectors) that's bigger than what I've got.
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Hey BeerCheck, I have your intake all boxed up and ready to ship. I'll toss in the cut harness so you have the ends you need. I'll take the box down after work and see how much shipping will be. I only swapped one electrical part, the one you see broke in the first pic.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo280/BackWoodsTracker/PC150094.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo280/BackWoodsTracker/PC150095.jpg)
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Sounds good. Fwiw, I find USPS is usually cheapest, followed by FedEx Ground. Whatever works best for you, though. Paypal cool?
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Sure, paypal will work. I'll have you send it to our work account, that way I can send it off to Jeff for that spacer lift. I kinda spent my lift money on a motor :(. I'll PM ya after I get to the post office and see what it costs.
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I got to drive it home tonight. Wow, that old motor must have been tired. It feels like I put new gears in it too! It seems I have a bad oxy sensor in bank 2, sensor 1, other than that, runs great.
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Super!
Glad it all worked out well for you.
Merry Christmas! (nice present) ;)