ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: RazBarlow on January 21, 2009, 02:55:27 PM
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I am fixing up a 94' tracker and I am trying to get it on the road. Well for now, it needs new rear shocks and I am low on cash for the coil spring spacer lift kit. I was wondering if I bought the 95' ford mustang shocks and put them on the stock tracker if they would work good until I can afford the coil spring spacers ?
There is a guy on Ebay that sells the spacer kits at a decent starting bid that I could possibly afford but I have so far always been outbid, hopefully someday I can get one for the opening bid price.The person that usually outbids me by one bid has won many of this person's auctions which makes me wonder if something fishy is going on.
Raz
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Message Jeff1997, he's got the best price / quality spacer lift. I think he sells it for $150ish shipped including front strut spacer (which you'll need - unless you make your own). You'll need to buy those mustang shocks ($40ish), he'll supply you with part #'s for that. Don't bother swapping the shocks until you're installing the lift too. No need to tear the rear end apart twice - the Mustang shocks aren't going to give you any lift by themselves, and they could be damaged if they're used with the wrong sized springs (not sure on this).
Honestly - I'd get the tires before the suspension. Trust me - your rig will look funny with a lift & stock pizza cutters. Here's a pic of the stock 27" front tire and the rear with a 29" on OME lift (1.5-2") :
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Camping/2008/Winchester%20Bay/WinchesterBayMay08002.jpg)
You'll just look like this before the lift:
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Tracker/100_0005.jpg)
And this after the lift:
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Tracker/100_0033.jpg)
You'll probably rub a little bit at FULL turn until you get the lift, but that's okay. In the future, try to keep your suspension & tire related question in threads you've already started about tires & lifts (or better yet, find a thread that's already started to discuss mild lifts & tires) so there's not a bunch of your threads covering the same general topic.
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I just hate to buy a set of shocks right now and buy another set of shocks when I do the lift . I am not counting on any lift with the shocks themselves, right now the rear shocks are like a pogo stick and not really safe to drive.I just wanted to know if the mustang shocks could be installed on a stock suspension without damaging them.
Raz
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Check the compressed length of your shock, and compare that to what the book says the Mustang compressed is. Make sure the mustang shock won't "bottom out" on compression before the stocker would. If it doesn't compress enough (I suspect it won't), you'll risk damaging it. My rear shocks were 100% blown when I replaced them. I noticed a little bounce back there, but not enough to be dangerous. Then again - I drive pretty easy when I'm in the zook.
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You can put the stang shocks on but you will most likely bottom out a lot and need to replace them sooner. The guy selling them on ebay (that I've seen) is jeff1997. Send him a pm. I would recommend getting the 2" leveling combo lift with out the strut spacers, if your on a budget, then do the "strut mount flip". I've installed 3 of Jeffs spacers and they are great!
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Monroe matic shocks #32260 ;)
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You can do the crown victoria shocks for 1/4 the price :laugh: if your willing to cut the steel guide out of your original shock. It's not that hard take a propane torch and melt the rubber to get the guide out, clean the guide with a razor knife and press in into new shock in a vise-use a little silicone so it slides in easier.
Wala for $30.00 ;)you got yourself a set of shocks
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Bill S, the monroe shocks cost $22 each. I don't see that much savings.
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People have had good things to say about the Napa shock as well. I just got the cheapest one I could find (Auto Zone, $12 each). I immediately beat the piss out of them on the dunes, and they've held up - though, who knows for how long? Oh, and I went with the F-150 shock... it was a PITA to get the metal spacer gizzy out. I used a hole saw, knife, pliers etc all. I think it took me about an hour each to get them out.
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go into your parts store and ask for a set of crown vics and the rustang shocks, compare them compressed and extended by hand. compressed should be the same between both shocks but about an inch longer extened for the rustangs. the crown vics rode smoother with no load but that was the only perk i had with them... they were not as long extended, rustangs had more travel. otherwise look into f150 2wd shocks if you want even more travel... that is my experience with them......
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Do the f150 shocks have the right eyelet bushings or do you have to remove them like the crown vic ones and use the old bushings from the stock shocks ?
Thanks,
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jeff1997, Got mine at advance auto monroes for $15.00 a piece ;) I'd say that's a pretty good deal for cheapskates like me. Better than $40.00 a pop.
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I just paid $22 each for the ones i reccomended. I wasn't saying you are a cheapskate, just that there are shocks that work without replacing or modifying anything. I'd rather pay $7 more per shock and just bolt on.
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I just paid $22 each for the ones i reccomended. I wasn't saying you are a cheapskate, just that there are shocks that work without replacing or modifying anything. I'd rather pay $7 more per shock and just bolt on.
I paid $12 each for mine, and would have GLADLY paid $22 each if they were ready to bolt up. The 1 hour PER shock fighting & wrestling with it to get the darn bushing out.... UGH!
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Jer,
What year of F150 shocks did you go with ? Do they ride good ? Right now those are in my price range even if I do have to do some work.
Raz
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I found on the O' Reilly website that they have rear shocks that fit a 1995 ford mustang for $16.99 each, the part # is 20968 they are
O'REILLY/MONROE - Rear Gas Charged Heavy Duty
Raz
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I think '95? If you do some searching for F150 Shock, the part numbers are brought up all the time. I've heard you can burn it out with one of these:
(http://www.nakka-rocketry.net/ablative/ul100.jpg)
But, I used hole saw, knife, hack saw, screw drivers, pliers & a big vice. A few cuss words & blood blisters later, I liberated the metal tubes from the shocks. I used the vice (and I think a socket?) to press them into the new shocks. I hear the torch method is smelly (so's the hole saw), but much easier than my method.
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for the guys running rear shocks that don't have the proper bushing sleeve combo, such as on the crown vics i went to a hardward store and got some sleeves for plumbing that i put into the oversized bushing, cost about a buck and saved the headaches.
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I thought of that, but I was 100 miles from anything resembling a hardware store that would be open that time of night. The extra $4 a shock would be worth it to me to not have to source (and possibly create) the proper sized sleeve.