ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: trevorsride on February 07, 2009, 03:46:50 PM
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Hi, I'm new to the forum, and new to these vehicles. I bought a 96 2 door Tracker today. It is stock with a automatic, and a 1.6 16 valve motor, and has 75,000 miles on it. How do they hold up? I would like to lift it, and get some 31's under it. I will be driving it as a every day driver, and will probably have it in the sand once in a while, and in the woods, but no serious off roading. What is the least expensive way of getting some air under it, and still have a good riding, and driving rig?
Thanks
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Hi, I'm new to the forum, and new to these vehicles. I bought a 96 2 door Tracker today. It is stock with a automatic, and a 1.6 16 valve motor, and has 75,000 miles on it. How do they hold up? I would like to lift it, and get some 31's under it. I will be driving it as a every day driver, and will probably have it in the sand once in a while, and in the woods, but no serious off roading. What is the least expensive way of getting some air under it, and still have a good riding, and driving rig?
Thanks
You can pick up a set of spacer from jeff1997 on here, he makes quality parts at great prices, ride quality will still be great, and you will be able to stuff 31's uner it with some minor fender trimming.
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do the body lifts mess these things up? I was looking at this kit.
http://www.masterkit1.com/Sid2_combo5_89-98AN_09.htm (http://www.masterkit1.com/Sid2_combo5_89-98AN_09.htm)
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I wouldn't spend what they're askin for that combo lift, Here's jeff's prices. With his recommended shocks you'll get 2" of suspension lift. With 31's that'll give 4 more inches of ground clearance. You'll probably still have to do a minor body lift and some trimming/bending to eliminate any rubbing. That looks like a good kit, but I think you could do the same thing cheaper.
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ooops ;) here's the prices
[url]http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24203.0[/url]
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i just ordered the masterkit1 and thought it was a very good price, remember the kit comes with shifter ext. steering shaft ext.shock ext. strut spacers and coil spacers and all metal body blocks and bumper mounts, will be recieving it this week and will let you know ow it works, still the best deal i have seen (my 2 cents)
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i just ordered the masterkit1 and thought it was a very good price, remember the kit comes with shifter ext. steering shaft ext.shock ext. strut spacers and coil spacers and all metal body blocks and bumper mounts, will be recieving it this week and will let you know ow it works, still the best deal i have seen (my 2 cents)
boondox BL kit comes with pre welded shifter extensions ect. also, and it is $180 + jeffs kit = $330 new springs? 500 ish total. all proven well working parts.
$5xx as opposed to $629.99 big difference IMO
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i guess i liked the idea of all in one order and the fact that its canadian with our dollar sucking its hard to shop usa, not sure were your stuff mentioned is from but seems like a good deal as well, looking forward to seeing how my new kit works, hope im as impressed as the say i will be.
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i guess i liked the idea of all in one order and the fact that its canadian with our dollar sucking its hard to shop usa, not sure were your stuff mentioned is from but seems like a good deal as well, looking forward to seeing how my new kit works, hope im as impressed as the say i will be.
Please keep me informed on your kit. It will probably be a couple weeks until I order parts, so I will read, and study info for the time being. I agree it seems to be a complete pkg all from one place. But you never know for sure until you have it in your hand. Is the 3 inch body lift ok to do? It seems like a lot? At least this one is all steel i guess.
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Trev, I got a 96 Tracker with manual tranny. I bought it 5 years ago with 64K on her. I've got 119K on her now and she is still running strong. I've had the usual stuff go wrong though the years,......water pump and cracked exhaust manifold were the "big" things (if you call that big!). Good toy and I treat her like hell.
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will keep you updated when i get the kit installed,just found a smokin deal on a set of 31x9.50x15 super swamper radials to tuck under the kick,should look sweet!
i guess i liked the idea of all in one order and the fact that its canadian with our dollar sucking its hard to shop usa, not sure were your stuff mentioned is from but seems like a good deal as well, looking forward to seeing how my new kit works, hope im as impressed as the say i will be.
Please keep me informed on your kit. It will probably be a couple weeks until I order parts, so I will read, and study info for the time being. I agree it seems to be a complete pkg all from one place. But you never know for sure until you have it in your hand. Is the 3 inch body lift ok to do? It seems like a lot? At least this one is all steel i guess.
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Thanks for the info so far. Anything to watch out for on this rig, or things I should check? It hasnt been used offroad at all, and has been towed behind a motorhome. The check engine light came on last night on the way home. I stood on the gas, and let it rund through second gear, and when I let off, the light came on, and has stayed on. Anymore lift ideas are appreciated.
Thanks, Grant
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Trevorsride, I sell the complete 2" lift minus rear shocks for $130 to the US or $140 to Canada. I'm sure if you want a body lift you could get one for under $200. Let me know if you are interested in my lifts.
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Is that price shipped? and what do I need in the way of shocks? Cam bolts for alignment?
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Yes that is with shipping. You will need longer rear shocks, Moroe-Matic #32260. They are about $25 each. I did not need camber bolts but you may. Lift it and see how bad it is then go from there.
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I was reading on another forum that the 2" coil spacers was to much, and will hurt the CV's. Is this true? I think I would trust the info on this forum more than the one I was reading.
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I was reading on another forum that the 2" coil spacers was to much, and will hurt the CV's. Is this true? I think I would trust the info on this forum more than the one I was reading.
2" is ok, i wouldnt go over 2" though without dropping the front diff. or you will run into problems. I have run 2" spacers on stock springs with no problems.
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That is the exact reason my kit uses 1.5" spacers in front and 2" in the rear. The 1.5" spacer gives you 2" of lift due to suspension geometry. Trust me on this one guys, I've ran this exact kit for 4+ years now. No problems, 95% of my customers run this kit with no complaints.
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95% of my customers run this kit with no complaints.
My inner grammarian says you phrased that poorly..
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+ 100000 for Jeff's spacers.
I bought em...installed em...and been running over all sorts of crap since. No problems so far. Stock CV's are totally fine.
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Ok, sounds like it must be ok. Thanks for the input!!
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That is the exact reason my kit uses 1.5" spacers in front and 2" in the rear. The 1.5" spacer gives you 2" of lift due to suspension geometry. Trust me on this one guys, I've ran this exact kit for 4+ years now. No problems, 95% of my customers run this kit with no complaints.
Does your kit come with instructions? And do I need to do the strut flip thing in the front with your kit or does it come with a spacer for the strut?
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Jeff's kit is the way to fly. For $200 all said and done (his kit + shocks you need to buy on your own), it's hands-down the unbeatably best value for fitting 31" tires. Body lifts are the debil. And, don't be afraid to cut your fenders to get some room too (cheap & keeps the center of gravity LOW).
Screw that Masterkit - it's a rip off. For a couple hundred $$$ more you can get THE BEST LIFT out there: OME. OME is the premium kit, gives 1.5-2" of lift, and is SOFT. It's like driving a completely different rig. I can jump in the sand dunes all day long, and it's no problem... and on-street it drives MUCH better than stock.
Get yourself some 5.125 gears to put in your diffs (to make up for larger tires), and you'll be set.
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That is the exact reason my kit uses 1.5" spacers in front and 2" in the rear. The 1.5" spacer gives you 2" of lift due to suspension geometry. Trust me on this one guys, I've ran this exact kit for 4+ years now. No problems, 95% of my customers run this kit with no complaints.
Does your kit come with instructions? And do I need to do the strut flip thing in the front with your kit or does it come with a spacer for the strut?
Yes it comes with instructions, strut spacers and coil spacers. All you need to add is longer rear shocks. I can even get the shocks if you want.
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No, thats ok, I can get them here in town, and save the shipping. How do I buy from you?
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Jeff's kit is the way to fly. For $200 all said and done (his kit + shocks you need to buy on your own), it's hands-down the unbeatably best value for fitting 31" tires. Body lifts are the debil. And, don't be afraid to cut your fenders to get some room too (cheap & keeps the center of gravity LOW).
Screw that Masterkit - it's a rip off. For a couple hundred $$$ more you can get THE BEST LIFT out there: OME. OME is the premium kit, gives 1.5-2" of lift, and is SOFT. It's like driving a completely different rig. I can jump in the sand dunes all day long, and it's no problem... and on-street it drives MUCH better than stock.
Get yourself some 5.125 gears to put in your diffs (to make up for larger tires), and you'll be set.
tell me the negative about the masterkit1, seemed like a very good deal for a full 5 inch lift but it seems like you dont like it, you have me double thinking my choice, whats your thoughts?
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well, I sent Jeff the money for his 2" kit. I figured everyone was happy, and it is cheaper, even with new shocks. I think I might just leave it at that for now, untill I get some more money for a good body lift. I know everyone says you can run 31's with just the 2" spacers, but most say some cutting will be required. Think I can get away with a 30x9.50-15 on a 7" alloy without cutting anything?
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trevorsride,
It's hard to say, because tire manufacturers sell tires at different sizes (usually smaller) than advertised. It's shockingly common for a 31" tire to measure 29-30" inflated. WHY this has been allowed to continue (legally) I have no idea - it's false advertising at it's finest. Basically that translates to: what fits for me, my brand of tires, AND how "fresh" my springs are (some sag more than others) means 31" might fit under mine - but a little rubbing on yours. This can easily and cheaply be fixed by any combination of BFH, properly back-spaced wheels or fender trimming.
I think the BFH & fender trimming methods are under-utilized because people are afraid of it. It's actually quite easy to do in a few hours with simple hand tools. It doesn't take much effort to make a stock / clean looking job. It's cheap, and keeps the center of gravity low. It may not seem like it, but 1-2" in COG can make huge differences in stability in off-camber situations.
tell me the negative about the masterkit1, seemed like a very good deal for a full 5 inch lift but it seems like you dont like it, you have me double thinking my choice, whats your thoughts?
Not a good deal at all. He's selling you Jeff's 2" spacer lift ($200 total w/ tax & shipping), which means the rest of the kit (3" body lift) is $300. RIP OFF - considering you can get it for $100 - $200 anywhere else, or *gasp* make it yourself for chump change. But - body lifts are THE SUCK. They raise the center of gravity, and don't directly offer any additional frame clearance. And, running anything larger than 31" is the suck - unless you're going to take a massive leap in cost & complexity and go to a Solid Axle Swap (search "SAS"). Stock driveline can't handle anything larger than 31" (really, 31" is the max, I usually recommend 29-30" tires, and lockers). Jeff will have a better idea of what brand of tires should fit under your rig with coil spacers. If they do seem to rub you can live with it (it's usually no big deal), fender cut, BFH - or do a 1" body lift if you have to. MUCH MUCH better than 3" body lift. Remember, each 1" of lift gives you 2" of tire size clearance (since radius of a tire is 1/2 of the diameter of a tire).
You'll hear about people surviving with 33" tires... but... they seem to be the exception, and not the rule.
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I'm running Jeff's 2" kit with 30X9.5 BFG m/ts, on 15x8", 3.75" bs wheels on my 4-door with stock gears. I had to do some inner fender trimming and a little BFH work on the pinch weld that sticks out from the firewall. They only rub a little with the wheel turned to lock and stuffed all the way up. A little more BFH work should take care of that. I'd say go for the 30 inchers. With a 2" lift and 30" tires you'll gain about 3.5-4" more ground crearance, and they're wayyy lighter than the 31's too.
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what do you do with the plastic ineer fender well, just cut it out?
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I actually cut my metal inner fender in such a way that it made a tab, then I folded the tab over and screwed the plastic inner fender to that. The new tab is in pretty much in the same place as the original one, only pushed back about 1.5-2". In fact the original tab is still on there, just extra metal on the end of the new mounting point. Your tires may be slightly different so I'd mount'm up and see what you got to work with.
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I actually cut my metal inner fender in such a way that it made a tab, then I folded the tab over and screwed the plastic inner fender to that. The new tab is in pretty much in the same place as the original one, only pushed back about 1.5-2". In fact the original tab is still on there, just extra metal on the end of the new mounting point. Your tires may be slightly different so I'd mount'm up and see what you got to work with.
Some close up pics of all you have done to the fenders would be really helpfull.
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I'll get some pics and post'm up tomorrow.
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That would be great, thanks alot!
Grant
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Here's the pics of my inner fender, sorry they're crappy cell phone pics. :-\ The green lines are the original edges, the red lines are the cuts, the new screw hole for the plastic inner is circled in red. First I removed the plastic trim on the rocker panel and the plastic inner fender. Inside the fender you will see a tab sticking out that the inner fender was screwed to. I cut around this tab and folded it over to make the new mounting point. The first pic is from the inside of the fender looking out of the wheel well. The second pic is from the bottom front of the rocker panel. The third is from the outside of the wheel well. The fourth is from the outside looking up at the rocker panel. After I trimmed the metal inner I screwed the plastic inner back down and put the rocker panel trim back on. I then cut the rocker trim using my cuts on the metal inner as a template. I only had to cut and adjust a little bit, you should really wait and see how much your tires hit, as you might not have to adjust anything. P.S. I hope my pics and instructions aren't too confusing, I suck at directions.
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I think I understand. I had no idea there was that much room in there behind that plastic piece. Wow, you could cut alot if u wanted to. Thanks alot. Did u cut the outside fender too, or not? I dont want to have to do that, because the paint is nice on this rig.
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Didn't have to cut the outside skin where its visible, just right between the two screws that hold the outer skin to the inner. I also wanted to keep the factory shape of the wheel well.
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That is good news. Is the plastic inner fender needed? Or is it just for looks?
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The plastic inner helps keep mud, snow, rocks, and other stuff from building up in the fender/door hinge area. You could probably leave it out for more room, but you'll want to hose it out under there to keep the crud from building up to much.(to prevent rust)