ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Lindenmooch on February 14, 2009, 11:06:04 PM
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Seeing as I'm not a member of many boards...you guys will have to do. ;)
So I don't get hollered at...let's just pretend the motor I'm talking about IS in fact a suzuki. An old...mid 80's V8 Suzuki. :P
How terminal is what I described in the topic? Can the pushrod be replaced? What bearings are in a motor that can go bad and create noise and loss of pressure and power?? Is the entire bottom end a paper weight now?
I'm nearly a complete and utter noob as far as engines go...so I need help. THANKS GUYS!!!
;D
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Seeing as I'm not a member of many boards...you guys will have to do. ;)
So I don't get hollered at...let's just pretend the motor I'm talking about IS in fact a suzuki. An old...mid 80's V8 Suzuki. :P
How terminal is what I described in the topic? Can the pushrod be replaced? What bearings are in a motor that can go bad and create noise and loss of pressure and power?? Is the entire bottom end a paper weight now?
I'm nearly a complete and utter noob as far as engines go...so I need help. THANKS GUYS!!!
;D
more than likely the no oil pressure caused your knocking sound, not sure how that motor is setup but oil pump failure, along with MANY other factors could cause you to spin a bearing..... in most cases no your bottom end is not toast...... only way to find out is to open her up and check your cylinders..... although you will have to have your crank balanced and most likely ground, if you dont find huge gashes in your cylinder walls, your bottom end may be salvageable.
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ummm, methinks u posted in the wrong place dude
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So you're saying....the cylinder walls could be damaged, and crank. If I tear it apart, and discover a real mess...it would probably be cheaper to get a used engine from the junkyard.
I can get a chevy..errr I mean suzuki 350CI motor from a lot of different models of cars from the 80's.
Then bolt on all my fancy add-ons to the new block, and I'm back in action. No?
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ummm, methinks u posted in the wrong place dude
I thought I might have....but it doesn't exactly belong in the suzuki tech forum either.....just gathering some info and knowledgeable opinions. ;D Maybe watercooler then??
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A junkyard engine might be a cheap way to go but also a bit of a gamble IMO.
I'd tear into the engine and see whats damaged and go from there and if its not to bad do a rebuild on that atleast you'd know what you got for sure and it would run like new.
I guess it depends on how much you can do by yorurself on it.
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Your knocking noise could be caused by a sup bearing. Which in turn would cause lose of oil pressure. The only way to tell is to tear it apart.
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ummm, methinks u posted in the wrong place dude
I thought I might have....but it doesn't exactly belong in the suzuki tech forum either.....just gathering some info and knowledgeable opinions. ;D Maybe watercooler then??
watercooler would probably have worked
or you couldve posted it in the main and made it a general question (non-zuki)
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Yeah...but I'm a pretty honest guy(for the most part). I couldn't really just LIE about it.
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Yeah...but I'm a pretty honest guy(for the most part). I couldn't really just LIE about it.
then the water cooler would have been cool
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=18545.0
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your lucky that this suzuki 350 is a very popular engine and many parts are interchangeable and cheap also the aftermarket world has their hands into every part in this motor. junk yard motors are iffy or u can buy a aftermarket rebuild for alittle over 1k.
if you were engine savvy, you can rebuild one for about 600 bucks depending on the condition of the block and crank.
you can replace the motor with any gen2 "suzuki" 350 even a 305 or a ponitac 400. you might have to switch intake and tb from your old motor to the new even some sensors. also i might be corrected but i think its 96ish and up is when some v8s came with vortec heads. these heads will only work with vortec intakes.
if u buy a aftermarket motor they are mexican 4 bolts ( stronger bottom end ) so next time if the motor is taken care of this wont happen.
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just found this its a replacement crate engine starts at 479 bucks from jcwhitney
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2020465&productId=2020465&catalogId=10101 (http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2020465&productId=2020465&catalogId=10101)
if you google shop it youll find tons and tons of motors to buy
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Great info! Thanks a bunch guys.
Barring any last minute complications....this will be my new toy in about a week or two.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/hornetking/1985%20Trans%20Am/DSC01015.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/hornetking/1985%20Trans%20Am/DSC01013.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/hornetking/1985%20Trans%20Am/DSC01014.jpg)
Real pretty 85 Trans Am with a sick motor. It's bored to .060, and has a cam and top end on it. Ignition too. Posi rear. T-tops. Nice alarm system. The body is straight, and the paint is nice. The tires are bald...probably from doing burnouts or something.
This is the "suzuki" I was talkin about with no oil pressure. It runs....shakes a bit..and loses oil pressure once it warms up. I don't know what's wrong with it, but I'm getting a deal on it, so I don't really care. ;D
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so it warms up then it looses oil psi?
put a alum water pump, alum pulleys and elec fan and you'll pick up some ponys and get some better mpg.
did they put a carb on it? if so check to see if its a elec choke or manual or even if it has a choke. my old monte id have to stay on that gas till it was totally warm. i cheaped out and got a carb with no choke still regret it till this day made that car horrible to drive when it was cold
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It's worse than that. It knocks and shakes too....and the guy shut it off before it was warmed up so it wouldn't get any worse.
What would make it have oil pressure when first started cold....then drop to zero pressure when it's warmed up?
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did the guy build the motor himself, if he did does he know what he is doing. Also how long ago was the rebuild done to bring the cylinders to .060 over and the new cam. If it was not long ago did he brake the motor in correctly, did he use break in oil and change it after 300 miles. sounds like he could have done all that work and left a old oil pump in it that could not supply enough oil to the bigger motor.
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I don't know the answer to any of your questions. ???
But with the oil pump being a maybe....I'll start there and probably buy a new one and try it, before I rip the whole motor apart.
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I would say bearing are worn out to say the least. When they start to expand they lose there clearance and lose the oil pressure. But that shouldn't cause the shake. That is something else. Sound like it needs a rebuild.
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mabe a siezed oil pressure relief valve- stuck in the open position.
this would show pressure on cold start that would fade as the oil warms up.
of course this would do some bearing damage if run long.
also could affect valve operation due to loss of hydraulic lifter function- run bad.
mabe.
wrecker motors are usually guaranteed to have good compression and not smoke or leak, but you may have to put it in to find out. sometimes it pays to make them run in the yard before you buy. a good place would even help with that.
mabe again.
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Thanks for all your answers fellas. Appreciate the help. I've been asking around....and I heard spun crank bearing a few times...and/or broken connecting rod. Looks like I get to rebuild the motor. Yay! :-\
Never rebuilt a motor before. Never got past removing the heads. I don't have a garage either. However...I DO know a really skilled mechanic with lots of chevy 350's just lying around...and he's built many high hp engines before. I know he can do it for me...but he hasn't got a lot of free time.
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i built my vw motor and my roommate built his supra motor in our kitchen in our old apartment. it actually was nice cooking some dinner next to some wrenchs and such lol