ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: Jeremiah on March 24, 2009, 02:18:18 AM
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Great job, Jeremiah!!
Only thing I think is misleading the way you state it:
This traction aid is like adding a tire size or two, so you can go more places with less tire, less lift . . . It's far more bang-for-the-buck than larger tires.
Larger tires & lifts are added to increase ground clearance. A locker does nothing to increase ground clearance. I'm guessing your thought was that the locker gives you more choices in lines to take vs the choices in lines a larger tire gives you?
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Real nice write up Jeremiah.
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great write
but wheres the pics?
:)
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but wheres the pics?
Add away - that's be beauty of forum discussions. I'm hoping people have all kinds of fun pics, links & how-to articles they'll share with us here.
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The spool you mentioned. 110 dollars??! I could swear I saw a "mini-spool" for like 50-60. Was I seeing things? Or was what you mentioned not a mini spool? And if not...what is the difference?
Oh...btw, I read a really nice tutorial with lots of pics on a mini spool install in a samurai....still looks nearly impossible for me to do. I don't have any of the tools for measuring backlash or anything. I was hoping I could just take the diff apart....toss it in...put the diff back together, lol. Guess it's not that simple.
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Got some pics and prices
Fozzy Locker: Price of having welding/welding rod or gas
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/Fozzylocked.jpg)
Lincoln Locker: Same as Fozzy Locker
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/Lincoln-Locker.jpg)
Mini Spool: $110+/-
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/spool.jpg)
Lockrite Auto Locker: $200 to $270+/- ($15.00 For extra springs)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/lockright2.jpg)
Front Trackick, Lockrite Auto Locker/3-pin Carrier: $310
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/ttkickfrontlocker.jpg)
Trackick Limited Slip Diff: Front - $490 Rear - $400 to $460
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/kicklsd.jpg)
ARB Air Locker: $860 to 890+++
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/arblock1.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/airLockerAnimation.gif)
Kam E-Locker: $1200+/-
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/KamLocker.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/KamLocker2.jpg)
Aussie Locker: $260 (Toyota Axle)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/rellim87/Lockers/Aussie-Locker-s.jpg)
I just skimmed over some of the major vendors and got some of their prices, if anyone has seen better deals or just all around different prices....post em up!
Amilla
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I think the most important consideration that was not even mentioned is safety. If your vehicle is going to be driven on roads by your wife or girlfriend then a selectable locker is the best choice. Even a limited slip differential can be dangerous on a wet road and even more dangerous with a short wheelbase vehicle. When both rear wheels spin you can loose control before you realize you are in danger. I know a couple of people that had accidents due to locked rear wheels. The worst was my friend's wife who was only pulling out of a T intersection on a wet road with a limited slip rear. Many say they can't afford a selectable locker but think what an accident might cost you in the long run.
Another situation that can be dangerous is crossing a muddy steep slope at an angle. A locked diff can be extremely dangerous causing your rear end to slide sideways down hill. An unlocked rear would be more stable giving an open diff or a selectable locker big advantages. It is important not only to look at different lockers but the benefits and dangers involved with them.
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As for pulling it apart and putting it together I've done 3 or 4 differentials like that. I figure they have about X amount of movement when I take them apart, and about X amount of movement when I put them back together. Done. :D
You can pick up some chalk pretty cheap though, to make sure you have good gear mesh. At the very least you should probably use that.
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I kinda doubt that there's a practical difference between "Lock-Right" from Richmond Gear and the Detroit, from Eaton, lockers. Lock-Rights are simply a bit cheaper. Petroworks sells Detroit, others sell the Lock-Right.
Limited Slip: Not a Calmini-only option! They're just hard-to-find right now, and Calmini had some stock. It was an original Suzuki option. Brent at TT told me that the supplier needs to make about 300 per batch, and no one wants to ante-up right now. I've seen them on eBay from "Just Differentials" and Hawk used to have them. TrailTough had a bunch last year and sold them until their supply was gone. LSDs often use a clutch mechanism, which will wear out over time. The Samurai LSD uses clutches. Hard-core rock crawling will likely wear out a clutch-type LSD.
Using a LSD in the front can have two advantages: no clutch wear with unlocked hubs and less impact on steering, compared to a locker. That's my choice for the front.
There's a great LSD article at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential)
Thanks for taking the time and putting in the effort on this popular subject. I wish I'd had something like this when I started researching the subject for myself.
Edit: I've been told that the supply of Samurai LSDs has dried up. The supplier needs an order for 300 (or so) to begin production again, and nobody wants to step up with the long green.
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Got a stock Tracker, plan on doing front and rear Powertrax Lock-Right lockers...but trying to dig up some info on Mini-Spools such as this one by Trail Tough: http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=170&category_id=18&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
Bad for DD, good for trail use? I'm looking for best of both worlds. Powertrax LR's will cost me close to $500 for both axles...Limited slips through Calmini run $400 rear, $500 front, and the front requires newer GV axleshafts...then ARB starts at $750+.
For the best of both worlds, and cost effective, are the LockRights best?
better to stay away from the "cheap trick" of a spool?
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Here is some info from a while back,
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24667.0
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My buddy has a 95 4dr kick, hes running a lockrite in the back. Its not his DD and with the lockrite there is quite a bit of hopping and jumping. He moslty does it on purpose, you can just ride the clutch or just let of the throttle to get somewhat of a smoother ride during turns.
As for the front i have no clue how will the IFS will hold up to a lockrite, for turning purposes i would say go with a limited slip. But its all going to come down to your pocket book and how much you are willing spend.
What kind of wheeling do you do?
Amilla
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no wheelin' yet, but basically want this thing to be a hunting rig in California, but also hold up to my demands if I want to do anything a little crazier than "road hunting" :)
but I'm converting my Auto front hubs to a manual hub...i guess you can't run a locker with auto hubs or else you will break an axle in 2Hi on pavement...so manual hubs are happening no matter what, still contemplating a locker in the front and rear. mini-spools are good for off-road use but I will probably drive more on the street than off the street.
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Driving on the road I actually like lock rights better than my spool. It does take some getting use to, but once you learn how to drive an auto locker you can control (and almost eliminate) the hopping and jumping of it engaging and disengaging in turns on pavement. I would say do the lockrites and manual hubs and go enjoy gong twice the places you can now.
Zig
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http://zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24758.0 (http://zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24758.0)
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but I'm converting my Auto front hubs to a manual hub...i guess you can't run a locker with auto hubs or else you will break an axle in 2Hi on pavement...
What? Where did you hear that?
I'd run lock rights front and rear.
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Driving on the road I actually like lock rights better than my spool. It does take some getting use to, but once you learn how to drive an auto locker you can control (and almost eliminate) the hopping and jumping of it engaging and disengaging in turns on pavement. I would say do the lockrites and manual hubs and go enjoy gong twice the places you can now.
Zig
Public opinion seems to be to install my hubs and go with a lock right and TT's front lock right. ARB is expensive, but worth it. I'm trying to figure all this out now as i wish to have it done soon. Of course, i could wait another month and pick up more hours at both my jobs to make enough to get arb's front and rear and the air system.
but I'm converting my Auto front hubs to a manual hub...i guess you can't run a locker with auto hubs or else you will break an axle in 2Hi on pavement...
What? Where did you hear that?
I'd run lock rights front and rear.
4WP (Fresno) told me that
The lock rights should hold up for a long time without breaking? I'm not doing anything extreme with this thing. More street driving than trail driving...
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Public opinion seems to be to install my hubs and go with a lock right and TT's front lock right. ARB is expensive, but worth it. I'm trying to figure all this out now as i wish to have it done soon. Of course, i could wait another month and pick up more hours at both my jobs to make enough to get arb's front and rear and the air system.
but I'm converting my Auto front hubs to a manual hub...i guess you can't run a locker with auto hubs or else you will break an axle in 2Hi on pavement...
What? Where did you hear that?
I'd run lock rights front and rear.
4WP (Fresno) told me that
The lock rights should hold up for a long time without breaking? I'm not doing anything extreme with this thing. More street driving than trail driving...
While I do agree that manual hubs are better off road (once you lock them, they will stay locked and not unlock and relock when switching directions, like auto hubs will), I don't agree with needing to run manual hubs with a locker to keep from breaking axles in 2wd on pavement. Auto hubs should not lock with the tcase in 2wd. And even if they did (and you were running a lockright) the locker would unlock while turning, since there is no power applied to it from the tcase.
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Hmmm that makes sense. I was wondering why 4WP told me that, I've been stumped since they said that. So I don't know why they even said that.
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I have manual hubs even on my DD 95 4-door Kick. Well, the auto-hubs crapped out after 200,000 miles, and I had manuals laying around in the garage.
I've already PM'ed you the story about the ARB's (I wouldn't trade mine for ANYTHING). When I press those switches, the Gnewt goes into "point and shoot" mode. It just goes where you want tit to go.
I was a tail-gunner on a trail run in Kane Creek Canyon in Moab, with about 15 Toyotas, during Cruise Moab 2007. Those Toyota people were betting that I couldn't make it through the first obstacle, and were worrying that I'd need a spotter through the obstacle. Well, Robby - a member of our 4WD club, and a driver for the FJ Cruiser Trail Team knew I wouldn't need a spot, and knew what the Gnewt can do. He just said "he's fine". The next obstacle, when I breezed through it without so much as chirping a tire, their comments were down to "yeah, but he can't SLEEP in it".
By the end of the run, they were asking if I could just chirp the tires a LITTLE...so I went up the waterfall with the lockers off. *sigh*
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[url]http://zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24758.0[/url] ([url]http://zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24758.0[/url])
I was looking for that but ran out of time and had to get back to work :P
Good Stuff,
Zig
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ARB is awesome.
But, for the price, you can get Toyota axles & Aussie lockers (they're lunchbox style, but without any of the click / bang / boom problems & bulletproof). And - you'll have Toyota axles (stronger, wider), and access to all the Toyota accessories (Like GEARS).
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But, for the price, you can get Toyota axles & Aussie lockers
But they still aren't as awesome as a par of ARBs. :D
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ARB is awesome.
But, for the price, you can get Toyota axles & Aussie lockers (they're lunchbox style, but without any of the click / bang / boom problems & bulletproof). And - you'll have Toyota axles (stronger, wider), and access to all the Toyota accessories (Like GEARS).
The key word is "FOR THE PRICE" heh if I won the lottery tomorrow I would still keep this Tracker...it just would get the best of everything...including those yota axles. TT's "trailslayer" Yota axle kit is awesome! But definitely not something I need. Hell I don't even need this thing lifted, but I just want to, just so I've got plenty of room for improvement rather than a bone stock rig. plus it keeps me busy and outta trouble...somethin to keep me home and work on
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I forgot to comment on the auto lockers... my GF has some in her Nissan, and they're AWESOME for 80-90% of the wheeling we do. I believe they're basically the same as the ones in the Suzukis. I can shift on-the-fly between 4 hi and 2 hi. Quite handy in inclimate weather or when I feel like I may not make it through a mud pit (then can go back to 2wd on-the-fly, so I can push the back end out again and have fun).
But they still aren't as awesome as a par of ARBs. :D
As awesome as selectable? No - certainly not. But, Toyota axles have more locker options (including e-lockers), much stronger axles, much better (both stronger and more) diff gear options (super-handy for us tracker guys), and a wider more stable stance. So, value wise, I think it's head and shoulders above the ARB. My Aussie lockers don't have any of the problems normally associated with lunchbox lockers. They're quiet, no windy-bang crap in turns, work when they're supposed to and unlock when they're supposed to. Do I still wish I had ARB? Sure. But I don't have the kind of money laying around that would cause me to ignore the value & options Toyota axles give.
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You can't beat the ARB lockers for ease of use, relalibility, and the shear ability it gives your ride to tackle the craziest obstacle. Yeah, I know the initial cost is pretty steep, but even a mildly modded Trackick, IE, little lift and slightly bigger tires, can be a real trail conquering ride. Lockers are IMO, the best investment in trail gear you'll make. ( Besides good tires!) That and some armour for your front diff, motor and trans. Take a look at what some guys have done to strengthen the front diff mounts to prevent the dreaded exploding aluminum front diff syndrome. BTW, I've been running the stock aluminum front diff, braced, with an ARB locker in it for 3 years without any breakage issues. Being able to select locked/unlocked puts less stress on the diff and housing as a whole, therby saving $ in the long run. Unless your going into serious rock crawling, Toy axles and the Conversion are kind of overkill. Just my opinion.
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Unless your going into serious rock crawling, Toy axles and the Conversion are kind of overkill. Just my opinion.
Same here. I was going to today, but most likely tomorrow (Wednesday) order the lift. Got the Calmini 3" suspension down to $849.95. Got a few dollars off all their skidplates (front, t-case, trans, rear truss) with the steering stabilizer and idler arm brace. And Warn premium front hubs.
Got a line on (5) Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs 30x9.50r15 for about $140 each...a distributor in town has 6 left of old inventory they need to clearance-price to get rid of them. And one more black rim to match the four i gots already. I think I can get all 5 mounted and balanced and alighnemt and one rim for under $800.
I plan on running open differentials until I think I need to lock it up. Most likely wait until after this hunting season to see what kind of extreme stuff I do with the rig before I get into the axles. I have a feeling the open diffs will get the job done when lifted with a better tire.
On an unrelated note: Ordered a front receiver for my fullsize truck last night. Going to put that on when I change my oil with my usual 3k mile service, and hopefully install my headers too!
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Just my opinion here:
I have run a lockrite, a TT mini spool, and welded gears in the back of 1 sami that I owned. Of those 3 choices, I liked the mini spool the best. It was the most predictable on the street and the most bulletproof. I actually just ordered another mini spool for a new sami that I bought last week. With that being said, the lockrite never broke. I just found that, when turning a corner, I would occasionally accelerate enough to engage it which would cause a loud bang and require a quick steering correction. After 2 years with the lockrite and 2 years with the mini spool, I didn't notice any difference in tire wear, either. I am a proficient welder and tried welding up my spiders; after several hard trail rides some pieces of the spider teeth broke off and ran through my gears...I've heard of this happening to other people as well; the welding heat treats the gears deeper than they were designed to be treated and makes them more brittle. I even took the time to pre and post heat my gears to minimize this but it didn't seem to help.
I have also run a lock rite in the front of my sami; I loved it up there. No complaints at all.
I have run 3 friction clutch-type limited slips in 2 different vehicles I have owned; in less than a year they had loosened up enough to be practically useless. I would stay away from them.
I have also had 1 ARB air locker in a toyota; that thing was awesome but big $$ compared to just about everything else. On a couple of occasions I did develop air leaks that needed to be addressed. It seems like the air lines running to the diff are the ARB's Achilles heel.
Last of all, I am currently running an Auburn Ected (don't think that's available for a zuk axle, but not sure) in a ford 8.8 in the back of my wife's XJ. The ected is a friction type limited slip that can be electrically locked. It actually doesn't "lock", but preloads the clutches so much that it acts like a locker. I was a little concerned about this when I discovered it, but with 33's and 4.56's I have never been able to make it slip. It has over 50k miles on it and 3 years...just like the other limited slips I have owned, the clutches are worn enough that it acts like an open diff normally. But it still locks up with no problem when I hit the button. I only paid about $350 for it...I will buy another one if I have the option in the future.
Hope this info helps...most people are wary of spending $$ on a locker...you can't see it and nobody notices it. But if you've never owned a rig that you installed on in, the before and after is amazing. I think a locker is probably the biggest bang for the buck as far as trail performance. It makes a world of difference.
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I know you can get the KAM Electric Locker for the rear, it is expensive though. But I think it comes with heavy duty axles.
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I have a locker in the rear, and an ARB up front. With the bucking I get (on pavement) in sharp turns from the locker, I wouldn't want one in front (but then I wouldn't be running locked on pavement). I don't have any problems off road with the locker, just pushes me where I want to be. When the locker isn't enough the ARB is just amazing, but you can feel it want to pull in a straight line when engaged. If you run lockers up front, you will appreciate power steering.
If you can afford an ARB, put it up front. If you can't afford it, run what you can afford and you will enjoy it. I ran with just the rear locker and had a great time. Now I try harder, and get bigger dents.
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Sounds like what most people have said. Question for someone: if i do run a locker in the front (i'm looking at trail tough's front lock-right setup), it will drive the same (normal) in 2HI on pavement, right? It will only engage when in 4wheel drive when the wheel starts to slip? But on-road 2Hi driving will be affected or no?
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Sounds like what most people have said. Question for someone: if i do run a locker in the front (i'm looking at trail tough's front lock-right setup), it will drive the same (normal) in 2HI on pavement, right? It will only engage when in 4wheel drive when the wheel starts to slip? But on-road 2Hi driving will be affected or no?
That is correct. You won't notice it in 2wd.
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It will only engage when in 4wheel drive when the wheel starts to slip?
It is a part time 4 wheel drive system, so the 4 wheel will not engage when the tires start to slip. You need to manually engage it on your shifter.
The locker will be locked in by default, and should unlock when your going around a corner. If you keep it under the throttle it will stay in the locked position and act like a spool. Limited slip, aka gear packs, will lock up both wheels when it detects that one is spinning. There is a pretty thorough discussion over at http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=24758.0 on the different types of lockers. :)
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Yeah that's a very helpful post I've seen before, thanks to Jeremiah
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Just how heavy duty are those mini spools? And street friendly?
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They are a single piece of metal, so pretty heavy duty. :D They are street friendly for a off road only vehicle. I wouldn't put it in a Daily Driver, go with a locker instead.
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Does a spool buck and scuff too much for daily driving on pavement?
The trickest thing I have seen yet is an article on Ack's FAQ about a KAM E-locker. I couldnt find it on their website, though. Who sells these and how much are they?
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Does a spool buck and scuff too much for daily driving on pavement?
Some people say yes, some people say no. ANYTHING less than a selectable (ARB or KAM) locker is going to be subjective - because everything else is functionally a compromise.
The trickest thing I have seen yet is an article on Ack's FAQ about a KAM E-locker. I couldnt find it on their website, though. Who sells these and how much are they?
Don't know who imports them anymore, but they're $1,200 + S&H. KAM's quite popular in Europe, they just never got the brand recognition here.
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Yeah $1,200? And that's just the rear! Shoot...ARBs look good for that price. Oh well. Open diffs are gonna worko well for me, I'm sure, as soon as I get the bigger tires and lift on. June 5th for the lift, btw...so I got another week to install the CB and lights
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The spool isn't that bad, and it doesn't buck at all driving around. But you will put more stress on your drive train and that will probably cause issues down the road. It's safer just to go with a selectable or a locker.
Low Range used to have the KAM locker, I don't see it anymore though.
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Does a spool buck and scuff too much for daily driving on pavement?
I have run both the mini spool and lock-rite in the back of my sami, and in my experience, the mini-spool bucks LESS than an automatic locker on pavement.
With the minispool, the light weight of the Samurai and sidekick/tracker allows the inside tire to spin easier on the pavement than it would on a heavier vehicle and because it is always engaged it is 100% predictable.
The lock-rite isn't foolproof...it does lock and unlock when you don't want it to on the street; MOST of the time it works fine, but those times always came up when I needed to accelerate a bit around a corner, the locker locked up with a bang and a big jerk and then I had to fight the wheel to keep the Samurai straight. You do get used to this...I don't mean to make it sound like the lock-rite is a terrible thing. But I noticed it everywhere...in parking lots, in town, and even occasionally on the highway.
Also, I broke 2 rear axleshafts in my Samurai both with the lockrite. Both times, I was in the rocks, one tire spun a partial turn before the locker engaged. When it did engage, the shock load broke the axleshaft. I NEVER broke a rear axle after installing the mini-spool, and the terrain I was in was FAR more difficult with the mini-spool. Because it doesn't shock load the axleshafts, the stresses they see are lower than with the lock-rite.
My vote is this: For those that can afford it, selectable lockers are king.
For those that want a locker in the rear of their sami/sidekick, go with the mini-spool. It's cheaper, super strong, easy to install, and predictable on the street.
For those that want a cheap locker in front, go with the lock-rite. It does allow for easier steering when in 4wd. And, since you're never in 4wd on dry pavement, there are no poor street manners to deal with.
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In the interest of convincing more people to install mini-spools/lock-rites in the back of their rigs, I wrote step by step instructions with pictures here:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=25590.new;boardseen (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=25590.new;boardseen)
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what do you think about this, just an idea, I have a stock sammi btw, put a lockright up front(doesnt really exist when in 2wd) daily driving isnt affected.(mines DD) Run that for a while, while saving up for an arb to put in the rear. This way you could retain your daily driveability until you get your arb, then also after.
Would a lockright upfront be THAT MUCH worse than an arb upfront? as far as off road traction goes.
seems like a good idea to me, what you guys think??
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I'd still KAM it in the rear - the KAM comes with strengthened axles, and I don't like the air problems that persist on-trail with ARB. At least 1/2 the guys I've run with had an air leak somewhere - one guy burnt out his on board air 'cause of it....
That said - lockrite up front, and ARB out back has been done. Any combo will "work" - it just depends on what you want, and how much $$$ you have. If it were me, I'd toss in a spool and be done with it. Unless using Toyota axles - then run the Aussie lockers of awesomeness.
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I guess I wouldnt know till I had driven daily, with lockright, or spool in the rear. I second the ARB problems, one of my buddies had a wrangler with arb lockers, he had leaks, sometimes there wouldnt be a leak at all, but still wouldn't lock.
I will most likely get lockrights in front and rear, before any other mod. IMO based on most places I go and will go, i could benefit from that more that tires or lift, after lockers will be spoa and tires. nothing crazy, till I get a new car. mine was totaled by an uninsured motorist. Sammi is my DD for awhile.
LISTEN PEOPLE make sure no matter what insurance you have, in the list of coverage, you have uninsured and UNDERinsured motorist coverage. nothing like loosing a $7000 car, and having nothing but the money you have in the bank to get a replacement. I am 28 years old and for the first time in my life, had to ask my dad for money. But it got me a sammi. lol
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Keep in mind, if you're not sure if you want a spool or lockrite... do the lead trick. It's a virtually-free $$$ version of the spool that'll last at least 6 months. That should be more than enough time to decide if you love or hate it. If love = buy the $110 spool. If hate = buy the $250 lockrite.
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Keep in mind, if you're not sure if you want a spool or lockrite... do the lead trick. It's a virtually-free $$$ version of the spool that'll last at least 6 months. That should be more than enough time to decide if you love or hate it. If love = buy the $110 spool. If hate = buy the $250 lockrite.
Agreed the welded (or leaded) spiders is a good cheap way to "test" the spool. But...it can destroy the side gears (even if you only fill the teeth on the spiders, it tends to chip the side gear teeth). This may not matter because they are replaced with the spool; but you will need to buy new side gears then if you go with the lock-rite. AND good rear side gears are useful to keep in your parts bin because most of the Samurai front axle upgrades require that the stock 22 spline front side gears be swapped out with a set of 26 spline rear axle side gears. If you have the good set you pulled from your rear axle when you installed the mini-spool, then the front axle/lock-rite upgrade is cheaper and easier.
Another option to consider; you can buy the lock-rite now and install it in the rear axle. A few months down the road, you can buy a set of new front axleshafts and a mini-spool. Take the rear 3rd member with the lock-rite already installed and put it in your front axle with the new axleshafts. Install the new mini-spool in the front 3rd member and install that in your rear axle. Ta-da! Front and rear lockers and upgraded front axles...you only need to set up each 3rd member one time this way.
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I have a 1998 4 door 2wd Tracker and I am thinking of getting a Lockright for the rear for light off-roading is a 90% daily driver.. I mainly want it for getting to fishing/ kayaking spots. The worst that I would probably deal with is mud or loose sand. I have 235 AT tires and have done very well, so far but I am scared of going out on a fishing trip and getting stuck alone.
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For a 90% daily driver you might want to look at spending a bit extra and getting the Limited Slip rear end instead of going with a lock right.
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Man, all this talk about leaking ARB air lines makes me wonder how good a mechanic the installer was. I've had mine going on 3 years now, and my Tracker has been in all kinds of situations, rocks, mud, deep sand, loamy dirt, freezing ice block filled water holes, and lots of Jersey swamp water. NEVER once had a leak in any airline or fitting. Careful, proper installation, coupled with good common sense routing of the airlines, as well as using some kind of protection on the exposed airlines , I just use that plastic wiring harness wrap over the majority of the airline, and a heat sheild covering where it's close to anything hot, will keep your airlines working properly without leaks. ARB also has an accessory trail side airline repair kit for those times when damage has occured to the lines or fittings. It comes with all the line and fittings needed to reline a diff ir two. $25. I've had mine in my trail spares since I've had my lockers in. I take it out and look at it once in awhile, brush off the dust.
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what about these lockers Trail Tough is selling on a special right now?
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=240&category_id=46&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
I didn't know Detroit made Suzuki lockers. What are they and how do they compare to a LockRight and such?
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They are pretty much identical to a lock rites.
Same operation and function just a different name.
Amilla
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Anyone feel like offering up an opinion? How do you feel about a spool for a 2 wheel drive F-150? Mostly driven on street, and will likely never see any slow speed off roading or rock crawling. It will be used to tow the Tracker, and for high speed wheeling.
I can't afford a selectable locker. I want something strong and predictable. Tire wear isn't a concern. I can always upgrade axles and other weak points in the drivetrain that are subject to failure under the stress of having both wheels locked together.
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If it is a street vehicle I wouldn't bother with a locker at all. If you get stuck pulling the Tracker just get out and use the Suzuki to pull it out. :D
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What you say is true, but I have to get rid of the rubbish open diff in my 2wd pickup truck. I have a couple options....I'm just deciding what to do next. The Tracker is starting to fall apart, but if I focus my attention on it instead of worrying about the truck...I think I can get the Tracker back to it's former glory in no time at all. Anyway.....I will end up putting some sort of locker or posi in the truck. Probably a posi or some other form of limited slip, as it will see a lot of street. The Tracker will end up getting lockers for extreme wheeling. ;D
BTW, props on an awesomely informative, much needed thread. /thumbs up