ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Grand Vitara, Vitara, Chevy Tracker (Gen. 2 Platform) 1999-2005 => Topic started by: olija on April 30, 2009, 10:33:11 PM
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I know, I know, it seems like the dumbest question ever. I've never removed a set of drums that were this stubborn before. I tried whacking em with the 5-pounder while rotating the drum, nothing. I even sprayed some WD-40 where the axleshaft comes through and centers the drum, still no success. I also noticed on each drum there are 2 threaded holes across from eachother. I tried threading some bolts into them to see if it would pop the drum off the axleshaft kind of like how you get rotors off, all it did was strip out the threads in the drum. So now I'm stumped...what the junk do I do? ???
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start chipping that rust around the rim also alot of patience will help......most likely you'll end up taking the shoes with it when you pull it off....Suzukis are well known for their badly rusting drums a friend of mine mentioned.......then again most vehicles suck when it comes to rear drums anyway. I am surprised the bolt thread hole did not work :S
on Safety Check my rear drums were a pain in the butt to get off........and I am driving a 2000 tracker
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reach from the back of the backing plate, and turn the adjuster and manually back them off.
can you move them a little bit, in and out like its stuck on the shoes?
or is it fused to the axle?
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Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on. Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer. If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.
Or...
install a Toy axle? ;)
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Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on. Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer. If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.
How will pulling on the studs work?
I also noticed on each drum there are 2 threaded holes across from eachother. I tried threading some bolts into them to see if it would pop the drum off the axleshaft kind of like how you get rotors off, all it did was strip out the threads in the drum. So now I'm stumped...what the junk do I do? ???
I've had a lot of success using a steering wheel puller with those threaded holes.
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Hmm I can't see that tire kicking trick working to get the drum off...
the problem is the drum is fused to the axleshaft.
I'll try some more things tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tips.
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Fused wow you never mentioned that.....got a torch???? ....also look into some drums lol I was able to find some for dirt cheap at my local store i am deciding wether or not to try out some things to hopefully stop this rust business #1 lol anti-seize on axle shaft now for me
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Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on. Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer. If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.
Or...
install a Toy axle? ;)
I"ll 2nd this. Sounds odd but works.
George
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Really stupid question, but, you didn't leave your parking brake on correct? You won't be able to get the drum off if the parking brake is engaged.
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Really stupid question, but, you didn't leave your parking brake on correct? You won't be able to get the drum off if the parking brake is engaged.
Heh. I've done that.
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Drum brakes on these things seem to last forwever... but they still wear a nice groove into the drum and if your adjusters won't crank your shoes back in enough to clear the groove then you'll be hooking the shoes on the lip of the groove.
If you haven't yet, you might try loosening your parking brake cable (at the rear of your console emergency brake handle). The parking cable may be holding your shoes out a bit.
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The first thing you do is get some PB blaster, and save the WD 40 for what it's best at, killin bugs. ;) When I have a drum like that at the shop, my final option is to beat the CRAP out of the drum with the good ol' BFH till the drum literally breaks it half. But at that point we've givin up actually trying to check the brakes and just get new drums, shoes, and hardware. Usually the wheel cylinders, adjuster hrdwr, and backing plate survives. By the way my BFH is a 5 pound sledge welded to a 1.5 foot section of Chevy 1500 torsion bar for a handle, so that helps. I wack them straight on the edge to use the leverage against the axle. If it absolutely has to come off i just beat 'em like I'm tryin to kill 'em. Just be ready to replace some stuff. The rust ridge can be a pain too, even after the drum pops from the axle flange.
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On the topic of Drums being a pain in the butt.......... what would it take to turn those rear drums into rotors????
My cousin has a 2001 tracker with rear discs......he rolled it bad back when I did actually go offroading with him....... so now its a compact.....what kind of work would I be lookin at to change it up...his has been sitting behind the garage for like a year now it seems
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Got them off! By applying a bit of tension on the bolts and then whacking them with the 5 pounder, they gradually came off but not without a fight.
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Got them off! By applying a bit of tension on the bolts and then whacking them with the 5 pounder, they gradually came off but not without a fight.
Good job, they can be some real stubborn beee-yotches, but nothing a serious beating can't take care of!
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Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on. Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer. If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.
How will pulling on the studs work?
I've had a lot of success using a steering wheel puller with those threaded holes.
Umm, the studs are attached to the drum. Using the tire as weight for an inertia-laden "slide hammer", you push-pull the tire and gradually, the drum comes off. Yes, jizzle (i.e. PB or similar) helps.
This isn't rocket science. I know several A and Master techs that do it this way, as by time you actually walk over and get the drum puller tool, the drum is off. Also, beating the back of the rim/wheel helps, but it a little more distructive.
I do the same thing to get the axle out of the housing, except using the drum loosely attached instead of the wheel.
And coming from NY, all drums more than 3 years old are rust-welded. But it's only that, rust.
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I havn't worked on many newer zuks, you say the studs are part of the drum, and thats bolted to the axle shaft? Reason I ask is my first gen 4-door has slide off drums with studs in the axle, but 2-doors had the bolt on drums with studs in drum I think.
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Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on. Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer. If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.
How will pulling on the studs work?
I've had a lot of success using a steering wheel puller with those threaded holes.
Umm, the studs are attached to the drum.
Umm, not in my world. But I might be thinking of the wrong vehicle. I guess.
'97 4-door, he said. My "Suzuki" experience here is '99+.
Got pix? 'Cause, you know, I do..
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/poky-dot/Frankentracker/PICT0374.jpg)
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/poky-dot/Frankentracker/PICT0375.jpg)
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t31/poky-dot/Frankentracker/PICT0378.jpg)
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Good pics Beercheck, that's what mine look like: studs are in axleshaft, with slide off drums.
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OMG! Has it really been that long since I fuct around with GV axles? Wow, I stand corrected. Looking at the pics, I remember. Jizzle and beat the crap outta them. Well, the wheel slide does work to get Sammy drums off! LOL Like my Sammy still has drums.
Honestly, I've probably forgetten more GV stuff than many even know about these grocery getters. And as time goes on, as I have absolutely NO respect for GV axles anymore. Thet are IMHO, absolutely worthless under the weight and power of the GV. I can't even begin to add up the money (thousands) I have in just the front and rear GV axles to make them semi-sound for trails, and for what, to ditch them and go solid.
Reality, if you want to wheel (and I mean Wheel) a GV with larger than a 31" tire, best bet is to save the money and start thinking SAS. Even with 31"s, expect axle snapping if you get jiggy wit it.
Ummm, do I smell microwave popcorn?
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So... I'm trying to replace my drums and this is as dreaded as I could imagine...
What was meant by putting tention on the bolts and wacking w/ a 5lber?
I assume the 5lber as a dead blow mallet? But what tention to the bolts?
We dont' have pb blaster up here in the north, but I did spray down the hub with some liquid wrench
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Had the same problem with the wife's 2000 Cherokee Sport. Beat the hell out of them with no luck. Used my multi-puller and slid them off nice and slow. They fought all of the way off of the shoes. I just kept turning that puller bolt 'til they were off. Wouldn't do it any other way now. When I finally do it on the Tracker I'll paint the new drums with zinc paint. Hopefully they won't turn to shale like rusty %&^|removethispart|@#*.
BoGiggers
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Ive always used the 2 10mm bolt holes in the drum like your supposed to and never had a problem?
also, you may need to back off the adjusting star and have the shoes retract back a bit, as drums wear in a lip can form at the back of the drum witch will cause the shoes to hang up.
so if you back them off first, that will help as well.
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Ive always used the 2 10mm bolt holes in the drum like your supposed to and never had a problem?
Same here! ::)
I can't figure out how all of those other posters totally missed the mark about using the drum's removal (jacking) bolt holes. ???
It had me thinking that they were working on a different model than mine.
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I think its maybe one of two things... like me, the hole thread stripped
or different drums w/o em were put on
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In the best of conditions, my 2001 GV brake drums need to be pulled by using the threaded holes and a couple appropriate bolts. E brake off and such to reduce tension. Never had to adjust out to remove. These rigs seem to need a bit more patience than some when doing mods or maintenance.
Pat
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we basically forced a larger diameter imperial bolt through the hole and managed to get it off...
after that, well... though they are drums, they're also a pain in the butt to re-assmeble compared to most... the springs were in good condition, so I resued them... but all my spring tools wouldn't find on these little springs :P
Needle nosed vice grips are your best friend...
My new drums have NO backout hole, so I'm pretty much screwed next time :)
The drump was really quite siezed to the axle.... I think only a gear puller would have otherwised worked
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The guys that have trouble using the threaded holes usually live in those parts of the country that rust is more than surface rust. The place where they seem to really get 'fused' is the center hole. If you wack that thing on the outer edges, but still on the face it usually breaks it free. Don't ever wack it on the flat surface that set perpendicular to the face, it will cause you to need to replace them.
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There are several way to get them off. But before you put them on use crocus cloth on the inner hole
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Ok, I'll bite. What the heck is "crocus cloth"?
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What the heck is "crocus cloth"?
That's an old term that I haven't heard in a while. ;D
It's a fine grit, typically cloth backed abrasive. Like sand paper or emery cloth and usually red in color.
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Go it, emery cloth. Why didn't you just say so :laugh:. I'll google it next time before asking a dumb question. Thanks
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Sorry next time I'll call it emery cloth. It was late and I needed to hurry up and get back to work last night before the boss caught me online
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Ok, I'll bite. What the heck is "crocus cloth"?
I think it was heavy duty sort of emery cloth, as in debride the parts before replacing.
Pat
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Crocus paper is very fine, and used to improve electrical contacts by removing muck, without damaging the metal.
I would guess crocus cloth would be similar.