ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Bryce132 on May 12, 2009, 06:26:28 PM
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Hey Guys,
After running a new wire from the starter solenoid to the ignition, i must have twisted a wire the wrong way because she wont start.
It will turn over fine and sometimes catch and start for a split second but then dies. It is getting spark (checked) and the fuel pump is working and giving good pressure (checked)
It has come down to the injector. It is not spraying, so there is no injector pulse, correct?
I need to get a diode of somesort to check the computer, to make sure there is a pulse coming from it correct? I took the ECM out and looked it over, does not look or smell burnt or anything... so i'm hoping its the wiring.
Is ther anything else that would cause the truck to not start, if it is getting good spark, has fuel pressure?
Thanks guys
Bryce
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Check to see if your getting inj. pulse at the inj. One side should B+ with the key on and the other will be grounded by the ECU when it pulses the inj.
Kevin
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I have acquired a circuit test light, rated for 6-12 volts, it should show up correct?
Bryce
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Ok here is the scoop guys,
I have tested the coimputer for a pulse, or any voltage coming from the injector wires coming out of it, with no luck. Is there ANY OTHER reason for there to be no power coming from it? The computer looks like brand new on the inside. No smell or any signs of damage.
Is there a diagram of the guts of her, as o could potentially repair it if i knew what to repair...
Finally, does ANYONE know WHERE or WHO has a computer for a/to work/fit a 91-93 Sidekick JLX?
Bryce
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You need a noid light to check the injector, the duration will be too short for a normal circuit tester. Why did you run a new ignition wire from the starter solenoid? You may have messed up the Ignition Fail Safe Signal thats provided from the noise suppressor (brown wire). The ECU won't fire the injector unless the IFS signal is present.
The ECU has an electrolytic cap in the corner by the connector. The PCB underneath can sometimes be damaged by the cap venting without any obvious signs, too much conformal coating traps the vapours under there.
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Where is that brown wire running to and from?
A noid tester is like 60 dollars locally, cant find anyone with it.... 1 l lead from that wire on puter should have 12v on the on switch i thought?
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Instead of noid lights I plugged small light bulbs (the kind with two small wires out the bottom) into my injector connections and tested for pulse that way. Use 12 volt bulbs and not christmas lights.
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I still dont get anything from it...
How can i test the wiring for my Ignition Fail Safe Signal? What kinda voltage/ampeage/ resistance should i be reading?
Would an oil pressure sensor cause no spark? I still dont beleive its the computer, not a spec of dirt in it and all my grounds are SOLID.
Bryce
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If the computer is fryed, and i take it to a garage to get it read will it show anything?
Bryce
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Surly used to be the ECU guy, but he's passed the torch to someone else. I forget who that someone else is (will take a while to commit to memory. PM Surly and ask who the 'new' guy is - and please let us know... so I can work on remembering it ;D
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I'm not sure i understand what your getting at... i should PM someone that we dont know the name of yet about tech/information pertaining to an ECM, right?
Bryce
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Some of the ECUs do have an input from the oil pressure sensor. Try it with the the wire to the block and with it disconnected.
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I'll sound like a broken record here but:
http://www.kick-fix.com/ECU/ECU.html
I know it won't start, but does the CEL come on when you key on? If not, then ECU has a prob, if so, I'd do some more diagnostics before you throw parts at it. You could also have someone crank it while you spray some test fuel in the TB, see #1 if it starts & #2 if CEL stays on after it does. If so, pull the codes & see what it's telling you. Also, I was in Advanced Auto the other day & happened to notice a noid light set for ~$40. hth
Fuzz
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Hey
I get no injector pulse, and the TPS is good. She will start with gas down the TB. I ordered a new computer AFTER i found that webpage... not much activity on here for real technical questions, i will be fixing mine and selling it. Thanks for link
Bryce
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not much activity on here for real technical questions, Bryce
Its pretty difficult to advise with ECU issues, the FSM has over 100 pages dedicated to the EFI system. To take someone through the diagnosis could take weeks of posting. There are Suzuki diagnostic procedures and manuals on this site:
http://www.suzukiinfo.com
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Yeah that link was exactly what i was looking for in the first place.
I can NOT find my ECU ANYWHERE.
It does not seem to exist, i see many differnt numbers on ebay and rebuilt ones etc. but 33920-56B90 seems to be a RARE number, and I cant find one that will work? I tryed a 33920-56B30 from a 93 8V 5spd 2dr but no luck....
Bryce
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I think that the 56B90 is a Canadian market ECU. I would expect a US version to work, have you got a pic of the inside of the ECU? It may be that you just need to move one of the config resistors to get the correct set up.
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Mine is on the left. It looks exactly the same as the second picture taken from http://www.kick-fix.com/ECU/ECU.html
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/128/picture085h.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture085h.jpg)
The gutts looked exactly the same as the B30 that I tried, except it was a different CPU in it. Everything else was identical.
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/57/trackerecu91wa.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trackerecu91wa.jpg)
Looks just like mine...
Bryce
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If you have all the same components fitted/missing then the important factors are the numbers on the CPU which give the firmware revision and the four configuration resistors which are above the CPU. If neither ECU work then chances are that the problem is elsewhere.