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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Carnage on June 04, 2009, 10:11:59 AM
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P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
Just double checking if thats the one on the headers?
would this do it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-OXYGEN-SENSOR-SMC-4W-SG412-CHEVY-TRACKER-00-94_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem5187038932QQitemZ350157506866QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
The Bad:
I think its going to be stuck and I dont want to break it during removal
(its 130k and im doubtful if it was ever replaced)
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Hey, I'll take a stab at it, B1S1 or bank 1 sensor 1 is before the cat, the first on in the exhaust. The sensor you're looking at on Ebay is the universal kind, you'll have to wire it into your plug. As far as it bein stuck, they usually come out without too much trouble. Just get a socket or box end wrench on it and pull like hell. The threads are sealed a little bit from the outside, so they usually will crack loose, but the threads on the inside are sometimes crudded up and can screw up the threads up comin out, so go slow. If it won't crack loose you can use heat, but that will sometimes screw up the threads too.
Hope this helps! Matt
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I had major problems breaking the O2 sensor loose on a sidekick once. Tried everything from an impact wrench to liquid wrench to heating it with a torch and nothing "standard" worked. What I eventually decided to do was to create a temp difference between the O2 sensor and the manifold. I put my O2 sensor socket in the freezer overnight, then the next day before taking the socket out of the freezer I drove the car and got the exhaust manifold good and hot. Took the socket out of the freezer set it on the O2 sensor for a few seconds and then put the breaker bar on the socket and it popped loose on the second or third pull. Guess it took it that long for the cold to penetrate down to the threads.
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so thats the one on the header right?
im wary about breaking that sucker
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Alldata says it's in the exhaust pipe below the manifold. What year? I looked it up for a '96 16V.
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If I'm not mistaken sensor #1 is on the manifold itself - sensor #1 is pre-cat (before the catalytic converter), sensor #2 is post-cat (after) - what I have not yet been able to determine is which is bank #1.
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what I have not yet been able to determine is which is bank #1.
There's only 1 bank on an inline 4. V-type engines have a bank 1 and 2.
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There's only 1 bank on an inline 4. V-type engines have a bank 1 and 2.
Ummm - I don't see anywhere he says he's got an I4 - and if you're going by the pictures, Suzuki did put the H20A in that body style in the mid '90s
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I broke mine trying to get it off, even after buying an o2 sensor socket. The socket slipped and broke the sensor in half. After a few whacks with a mallet, it broke loose.
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for those that were wondering about which side bank one an bank two is on whichever side cylinder number 1 is on is bank 1 cylinder number 2 is bank two obviously this is only on v motors
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the government is the cause of the heated o2 sensors on a one wire o2 sensors it had to reach 600 degrees before it would start swinging high an low for the ecm to reconize it government that was to long to many nox an hydrocarbons on a cold start up so all the heater does is make it heat up quicker so the ecm wouldnt be guessing how much fuel was needed to run a cold engine it goes on an on lol
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the government is the cause of the heated o2 sensors on a one wire o2 sensors it had to reach 600 degrees before it would start swinging high an low for the ecm to reconize it government that was to long to many nox an hydrocarbons on a cold start up so all the heater does is make it heat up quicker so the ecm wouldnt be guessing how much fuel was needed to run a cold engine it goes on an on lol
can anyone clean this up? ??? (Im not able to understand)
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the government is the cause of the heated o2 sensors on a one wire o2 sensors it had to reach 600 degrees before it would start swinging high an low for the ecm to reconize it government that was to long to many nox an hydrocarbons on a cold start up so all the heater does is make it heat up quicker so the ecm wouldnt be guessing how much fuel was needed to run a cold engine it goes on an on lol
= O2 sensor heater circuit pre heats the sensor on cold starts, so it can give the ecm accurate readings.
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O2 sensor heater circuit pre heats the sensor on cold starts, so it can give the ecm accurate readings.
*scratches head*
and this answers my first post how?
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It doesn't answer the question, but did I clarify?
can anyone clean this up? Huh (Im not able to understand)
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It doesn't answer the question, but did I clarify?
can anyone clean this up? Huh (Im not able to understand)
yeah, that was good
you speak fluent run on sentence?
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you speak fluent run on sentence?
:laugh:
Nah, I speak fluent "customer-ese" After a few years of reading customer complaints and mechanic write-up sheets, I've learned to decode the run-on pretty well. ;)
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The answer to your question:
If your O2 sensor is a 4-wire sensor then yes it will do the job. Note that the the error code does not mean that the heater is faulty, it means that there is a fault in the heater circuit. Its worth checking the connections and wiring before buying a new sensor.
Correction/clarification of the previous statement:
The purpose of the heater is to control the temperature of the sensor. The early non-heated sensors were positioned close to the head so they heated up quickly. Then they got too hot under load so they weren't used under load. Heated sensors are usually mounted further down the downpipe and the heater is used to bring them up to temperature, this way they are functional under a wider range of engine temperatures and loads.
The O2 sensor itself does not switch, it just measures the air fuel ratio, under closed loop the ECU cycles the fuelling rich/lean, that causes the O2 output to go up and down.