ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: jdpuhalla on June 26, 2009, 05:35:05 PM
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So I'm trying to replace my brake pads on my 2000 4-door tracker, but the top mounting bolt on the caliper will not budge no matter what i do. I have it soaking in WD-40 and have been using a breaker bar but i'm all out of ideas.
I do not have access to a compressor or impact wrench so that is out of the question. I need to get this done ASAP so anything can help.
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if you don't have a torch and you got a welder you can weld a big nut on the end. The heat might help break it loose.
If the last person that put the bolt in used loctite or some chemical lock product you need to release that. Heat is the only way to get that loose.Even a small torch can get enough heat to release the loctite.
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ummm - do you really need to remove the top bolt?
Most of the calipers I've worked on you can remove one bolt and pivot the caliper on the other pin - we are discussing the bolts that hold the calipers to the slide pins, right?
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yeah, and i've been trying to pivot the caliper up but the damn thing won't budge, who ever did the brakes last must have torqued it on to tight.
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Sounds like the pin is seized in the mounting bracket.
On a GV and I believe on a Tracker the calipers are single piston floating calipers - the caliper itself is supposed to slide on the two pins which means the pin should rotate in it's holes in the mounting bracket, depending on the construction of the particular caliper, it will not rotate on the bolt either because the bolt screws to the caliper or because the pin has flats that lock it to the caliper.
It may be possible to heat the bracket and free the pin, but the heat is going to destroy the rubber components so it's beginning to sound like you'd be better off replacing the entire caliper including the bracket with a rebuilt unit - the bracket should be attached to the spindle with two large bolts, I think 17mm across the flats.
BTW - brakes being what they are, if you're replacing one caliper, I'd replace both.
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I don't mean this like it might sound, but....you are doing the lefty-loosey bit right, right?
I only mention it because I had a bit of a brain fart myself this spring.. Boy did I crank that sucker down tight.
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That's a good point BC - especially when working on a brake caliper, because the pin bolts are usually facing away from us.
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if you have a floor jack, take the handle off and slide it over your breaker bar and pull, works every time for me, all you need to do is crank your wheel all the way to one side or the other to get enough room......
i did brakes on a 4wd gmc 1 ton pickup, factory spec is 250 foot pounds on the caliper bolts :o
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That's a good point BC - especially when working on a brake caliper, because the pin bolts are usually facing away from us.
That's exactly what did me in.
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Be sure to use a 6 point socket, that way you lessen the chance you will round the bolt head off.
Also what I usually do is use a hammer and smack the breaker bar to help bust the bolt loose. The "jarring" seems to loosen it up easier than using a cheater bar.
Are you trying to take the slide pin bolts out, or the caliper mounting bracket bolts out (12mm vs. 17mm socket, IIRC)? If you are trying to take the slide pin bolts out, I'm surprised you having twisted them off yet, they are small bolts and are only supposed to be torqued to somewhere around 20 ft. lbs. Now if you are trying to take the caliper mounting bracket bolts out, then I could see where you are having a problem....they are bigger bolts, usually rusted, and are torqued somewhere around 60 ft. lbs, IIRC.
BTW, I always take the caliper mounting bracket bolts out, instead of the slide pin bolts, when doing brake work. Just my preference.
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I just replaced my pads yesterday and had the same issue with the passenger side. It would move a little but it was tight and couldn't slide the caliper out. To free the pin from the caliper bracket, I pulled back the pin boot and sprayed in some penetration fluid, then got the caliper up enough to use a large set of channel locks on the caliper to work it up and down while adding spray till it would slide out. I then cleaned up the pins with brake clean spray and greased.