ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: TN_Tracker on August 06, 2004, 03:28:27 PM
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It was shipped exactly when they said and was very good quality but the instructions leave a lot to be desired. I used Heather's Budget Lift write up for most of the install. Thanks Heather. (http://www.anchoredbygrace.com/smileys/icon_super.gif)
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I shouldn't even have to say this, but PICS!!! :P
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I shouldn't even have to say this, but PICS!!! :P
;D
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So...
How long to install?
What do you think of the results?
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Yeah, I know, without pics it never happened. ;D I'll try to get some today. It took us about 4 hours to do the majority of the work but we were going kind of slow and it could be done faster. The biggest issue is getting the bolts lined up to install the extended nut. I have a few things to finish today.
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I see a body lift coming my way fairly soon as well...looking forward to the pics dude!
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Well, I've got most everything done. My ancient digital camera is taking terrible pictures so I've only got a few. If anyone is interested in some close-up pics let me know and I'll borrow my brothers new camera when he gets back from vacation.
Don't think I'll be cutting my rear tires on the body anymore. :P
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/RockSolid4X4/Tracker/bodylift4.jpg)
Nice side view :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/RockSolid4X4/Tracker/bodylift2.jpg)
RRO decal ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/RockSolid4X4/Tracker/bodylift3.jpg)
My thoughts:
Installation was easy enough but their instructions leave a lot to be desired. Their "for show vehicle only" statement on the instruction sheet is laughable. Do yourself a favor and lengthen the TC Shifter, I straightened mine and it hits the Automatic Tranny Shifter when in 4Lo so that needs some attention. Although the instructions are pretty much none existent I think that it's a pretty good deal for $120.00 and I'd spend my money at RRO again. ;D
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Is this http://home.att.net/~jerryp58/tracker/lift_kit.jpg pretty much the RRO kit?
Does the body sit right on those spacers?
I'm curious, why do they say "for show" only? Has anyone had a problem with body lifts off road?
I would like to see some "dead on" pics of the front & rear "skinless" bumpers.
BTW, Looks Good.
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I'm curious, why do they say "for show" only? Has anyone had a problem with body lifts off road?
Probably a liability thing. :-/
Lookin' good, TN!
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Is this [url]http://home.att.net/~jerryp58/tracker/lift_kit.jpg[/url] pretty much the RRO kit?
Does the body sit right on those spacers?
I'm curious, why do they say "for show" only?  Has anyone had a problem with body lifts off road?
I would like to see some "dead on" pics of the front & rear "skinless" bumpers.
BTW, Looks Good.
The picture is very close to what I got. The spacer blocks are slightly different and I got 10 blocks, there's only 9 in your pic. I left the factory rubber mount on top of the blocks next to the body and the factory rubber mounts below the brackets on the frame.
The "for show vehicles only" is just legal mumbo-jumbo meant to release them from any harm if you crash and the body separates from the frame. It's really not that unusual, I just thought it was funny because of the way their lift is represented on their site. ;D
Here's a couple pre-lift pics of the front bumper but you can't see much because of my Hi-Lift. I don't have a pic of the back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/RockSolid4X4/Tracker/hilift2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/RockSolid4X4/Tracker/hilift4.jpg)
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Probably a liability thing. :-/
Lookin' good, TN!
Thanks ;D
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Does anyone know the dimesions on the blocks? outside diameter? hole diameter?
I pour polyurethane for a living, and could knock out the block portions in about an hour. Just would be greenish color instead of black.
Just curious for future reference.
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Wish you'd ask 2 days ago, I could easily get an outside diameter now but the inside hole would be tough to get. The blocks don't really look like anything special and could be off the shelf lift blocks, it's the fasteners that are unique and I'm sure they make up most of the kit's cost.
TN_T :)
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Does anyone know the dimesions on the blocks? outside diameter? hole diameter?
I pour polyurethane for a living, and could knock out the block portions in about an hour. Just would be greenish color instead of black.
Just curious for future reference.
Snakeman, is the polyurethane you pour become solid? Or is the density more like a hard rubber? Is it possible to cut the poly spacer in 2 pieces, then secure the pieces together with a set of bolts/nuts?
The 3rd generation models (Vitara) have 3" long center body studs. Since these are so long, if there is a 3" body lift spacer, the body stud would have to be raised nearly 3" above the frame mount to get enough space to place the lift block underneath. Taking out the rubber mount within the frame mount helps. So, 3" long stud lifted 3" above the frame mount is some 6"!!!
But if the body lift is 3", and the body lift came as 2 pieces, the body would only need to be lifted enough to get the pieces over the stud and secured via the bolts. Another thought of securing the 2 pieces, is a hose clamp, however, during an accident, there is great potential of the stud shearing the 2 pieces. Thus the bolts would work rather easily.
Got any ideas also?
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The body lift directions do suck badly.
The majority of tim eis spent aligning the bolts like he said above.
I did mine in about 8 hours, figuring out how to get everything together. (Pics or cad drawing in the pics would of been useful)
I also went all out and raised my bumpers 2 inches because I want to keep it as clean and as stock as possible.
Here's a pic of it with the bumper brackets done correctly. (threaded new holes so bolts hook as best as possible) I have no pictures of the new bumper brackets although I can get some if you guys have a big interest in seeing them.
(http://www.21studios.com/photos/Tracker/trackeraug8.jpg)
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The mold I have, that I have used in the past, will make parts w/ 2.5" o.d. with a .75" i.d. hole in the middle. The overall length of the mold (heigth) is 5 - 15/16" so just shy of 6". In the past, I only needed 2", so I cut 2" "pucks" out of them.
As far as hardness, we pour anything from 65a shore hardness(you can make a fingernail imprint in this) to a 65d shore hardness(you can throw this as high as you can, have it land on pavement, and barely scratch it). I pour 80a on a regulsr basis, and my co-workers pour 85a normally. Both are suitable for said lift blocks.
Tn-Tracker -  what hardware do they send? I'm new to trackers, and thinking about getting one as a DD. I have access to some pretty unusual items as my work has a full-on robotics fabrication center.
--edit-- Just looked at the pic again, and see the "fastners" your talking about. I'd like to see a more detailed pic if anyone has one.
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Ohh a picture of the metal back bumper for the person who asked.
(http://www.21studios.com/photos/Tracker/trackermetbump.jpg)
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The mold I have, that I have used in the past, will make parts w/ 2.5" o.d. with a .75" i.d. hole in the middle. The overall length of the mold (heigth) is 5 - 15/16" so just shy of 6". In the past, I only needed 2", so I cut 2" "pucks" out of them.
I'll measure out the OD of the mounts as well as the bolt hole. I'm thinking the .75" ID hole is a little big. May have to add a steel sleeve which would work out best. Only other concerns would be the threaded tube nut (which comes from Sky Manu. and pics in my webshots) and steering extension. The 3rd generations have rack and pinion steering. There are at least 3 points capable for extension. The extension could be in one or all 3 points.
As far as hardness, we pour anything from 65a shore hardness(you can make a fingernail imprint in this) to a 65d shore hardness(you can throw this as high as you can, have it land on pavement, and barely scratch it). I pour 80a on a regulsr basis, and my co-workers pour 85a normally. Both are suitable for said lift blocks.
Cool. Could you explain the differences in the hardness and compare to say metal? Want to make a few for test purposes? With the hardness, think that I could cut them longitudunally, then drill into the them, placing a recess for the bolt and nut head?
Tn-Tracker -  what hardware do they send? I'm new to trackers, and thinking about getting one as a DD. I have access to some pretty unusual items as my work has a full-on robotics fabrication center.
--edit-- Just looked at the pic again, and see the "fastners" your talking about. I'd like to see a more detailed pic if anyone has one.
In my webshots, I have these for a 1" Sami body lift. http://community.webshots.com/photo/125723301/125727393aVgSwP. Basically, the threads M10-1.25 are inside. The nut is integral to the tube. Think of it like a long nut.[\color]
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In my webshots, I have these for a 1" Sami body lift. [url]http://community.webshots.com/photo/125723301/125727393aVgSwP.[/url] Basically, the threads M10-1.25 are inside. The nut is integral to the tube. Think of it like a long nut.[\color]
Sky's is a few miles away, so I will take a peak next time I'm there.
As for cutting them and bolting them back together, I doubt that would work, not and be safe.
I will think on this a while, and am very leary about making any for others as the liability problems myself and my work could get into if something bad happened. (not saying you would do anything, but too many possibilities exist). I'll check next time I'm at skys, and try and get his opinion, although I don't know him all that well, a buddy does all his CAD work and maybe together we could get the necessary info. (if that makes any sense ???)
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Ohh a picture of the metal back bumper for the person who asked.
[/img]
Might have been me. Thanks.
I like the idea, but I'm still undecided. If I do it, it'd be nice to be able to fab a couple of small trim panels for the corners, but I'm probably not that talented.
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I would just use your stock bumper plastic with the frame.
Everyone has tube bumpers, and since I am poor I used that as an excuse to keep my stock look.
The bumper brackets are basically 5X3 Piece of metel with 4 bumper bracket holes. Easy as pie.