ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: whitfield on April 05, 2004, 02:32:59 PM
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(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/kickframejig.jpg)
1.  Frame Jig to design and mock up the suspension bracketry
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Jignospacer.jpg)
2.  A pic of the coil buckets with no spacers
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/xjcoilspacer.jpg)
3. A pic of the XJ 2" coil spacer, Piece I cut (2.5" hole saw), Stock side kick spring insulator.
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/jigwithspacer.jpg)
4. XJ spacers on the coil bucket with the extra coil insulator...
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Strutspacer.jpg)
5. 4.5" strut spacer.  I've got to finish the upper spacer flange. The spacer is just resting in place on a piece of plate. I've got look into the strut travel before I decide on the exact legnth. ÂÂ
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Aarmdropbrackets.jpg)
6.  A pic of the drop brackets in the making.  1/4" plate, overbuilt and very ugly.  Front drop brackets just tacked,  will be aligned, welded,  boxed, and braced.
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/kickdoor.jpg)
7.  A nice Sidekick door
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/kickhalfdoor.jpg)
8. A nice Side kick door gone bad.  ;D
Half doors new lines match the bulge lines on the fenders and also leave the stock mirror and door main horizontal brace in tact. Door opener will be a small push down knob thru the top Samurai style.
Lots more work to go, I'll soon begin pulling apart my kick and chopping the rear A-arm crossmember for the 4" housing drop. ;)
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We'll let it go for now. ;D
I like the half doors. I have a parts car and thats what I'm thinking of doing.
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pics look great
also i want to see pics of the rest of the rig ::) looks like u went a little sawzal happy lol
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Haven't gotten to sawz-all happy yet. Just used it to cut the braces and window frame, otherwise it was the sheetmetal shears. I need to do the fnders and then I can get happy :D
Cool part is that if the rig were on the road I could still be driving it back and forth.  Having the Frame Jig to work off of.  I haven't taken the kick apart yet.  I'm trying to get everything made up before disassemboly.  hope to only have it down a day or two. ÂÂ
Currently it just has a 2" body lift.
Here's a poser pic (Posted earlier in another topic) with the body lift wheels and tires. ÂÂ
  (http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/kick_on_34s.jpg)
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if your putting a body lift in then lift the center of the frame. i did it still waiting to test it.
stu
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Nice idea for a jig.
Have you thought of doubling up the front frame? You could use a front doner and weld it to the curent frame. It could give you the lift your looking for without all the fabing and geometry hassels your going through.
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Yes I considered it, But the second frame isn't going to be a clean / exact fit, + I'd still have to deal with dropping the axle housing and cut out the frame at the diff. Originally I was going to weld the A-arm brackets together using thing wall square tube just to hold all the measurement as i cut them off of the truck then place the brackets under my truck and fab to them. But the factory stuff is very thin and there was no good way to cut and reweld it. I like the design I have now although my a-arm drop plate pic looks butch in the picture above. The idea of posting that pic was to show how I got the referance surface (front A-arm drop bracket dimensions). I have finished the Front A-arm drops except for the piece of 2" DOM tube I want to use to weld the right to the left. I'll try to get more pics today.
Michael
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If you can, take a look at the latest Off-Road mag (GM 6" HD install), and others for the new F150 lift, as they have devised ways of 'relocating' the suspension mounts points and ways of structurally adding to the subframe. Take a look.
Most todays' suspension IFS lifts have learned from the early IFS lift problems and have successfully designed better suspensions.
For your Trackick steering, take a look at Superlift's steering drag link design. It's actually a 'bridge' design keepng the stock pitman arm and the idler arm in stock location, but lowering the tie rods.
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Interesting...  I've got to find that article or take a look at some of the Big local Chevy's. I've got some extra legnths of heavy wall 1" x 1" square tube from making up Z-links this bridge design sounds like a fesable solution...
Superlifts write up below. ÂÂ
The front differential assembly is also lowered, via plate steel bracketry, to keep CV axle angles in check. Superlift’s new control arm brackets tie into crossmembers that span the distance between each frame rail along with optional "kicker" braces to form an exceptionally strong assembly.
The vehicle steers through a centerlink. Bracketry lowers the factory centerlink to keep the tie rods in phase with the lower control arms. A greasable stabilizing link regulates centerlink movement and reduces the load and stress transmitted to the pitman and idler arms.
(http://www.superlift.com/images/catalog/optimized/113P14-2.jpg)
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Many hrs. Tonight out in the rain laying on my back in the dark. Tired...
Should assemble the front tomorrow.
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Aarm_mounts.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/closeupA.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/CloseupB.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Strut.jpg)
GV front coils raised about 2" But rears do not... Sourced some TJ's i'll try those in the rear once the front is back together.
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looks great, i'd put some bigger tires on if i were you.
stu
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But WOW WTF happened to your tow point??????
stu
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ITS LOOKING GOOD ARE YOU GONNA FINISH IT IN TIME ???
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http://www.izook.com/tech/tracker/lift/tracker9inch.htm
;D
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looks great,  i'd put some bigger tires on if i were you.
stu
Yea ;D Bigger tires ;)... Ive got 35" boggers and 38" TSL's just incase I can't break a stock CV with the 34's...
Factory tow point up front was abused by the prevous owner.
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Any more progress on this? Looking good, but haven't had a picture update in a couple days :)
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Sorry guys I've been spending every waking moment in the garage or at work.  It goes on the trailer tomorrow.  Suspension is done except for tightening the nuts on the Booty Fab-d (Bridge) steering center link.  I am also changing out the water pump and removing and replacing the oil pump gasket (Oil leak / Cant afford a new pump this week).  I have lots of pictures but no time to down load them.  The Sidekick should make Zuwharrie late Friday night, The half doors will probally not get finished by then.
My end results I'll try to get pictures up before I go. ÂÂ
2" body lift  (soon to be 3")
Front suspension: 4.5"
Dropped the front A-arms, steering and axle 4"
.5" Teflon / Nylon spacer,  + 2" xj spacer + (2001 GV v-6 2wd) coils, + factory insulator.  The GV coils have one extra wrap making them a bout 1.5" taller free standing same dia. coil wire.  ÂÂ
Rear: ???"
.5" Teflon / Nylon spacer, + Unknown TJ coils (They were on a shelf in a Samurai friends garage / Spares for his rear)  The GV 2wd V-6 rear coils were the same wire dia. and # of wraps as the stock 94 4dr & gave no lift.
I do not have the TJ coils in the rear yet, GV rear coils are still in place.
 TJ coils in the rear, welded rear 3rd install, water pump, oil pump, and steering will happen tonight.
Dropping and re-aligning the rear (beneath the engine) A-arm crossmember was by far the hardest part of the lift.
               Michael
PS.  I have bought 2x 5' of 1/8th wall 3" x 6"  to french into the factory rockers.  but that will have to wait too not quite enough hrs in the day....
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my thoughts on the rear 3rd link crossmember was to cut it and rotate(sp) it down from where it is now. thats what i will be doing. is this you DD? cuz you you move the floors back and cut the fenders you can clear all kinds of tire.
stu
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No Not a DD.  It is one of many projects.  Got it running last night at 1:30am.  I still have to cut the front fenders, Might cut the floor if I need to. Cutting the floor / rocker made room for 38's on my sammy. I'm leaving tomorrow at 4pm.  Pics may wait until after the trip.  I still have to pack & prep the tow vehicle.
No rock rails and rear is still open  :(  .  But it is lifted and it runs with no coolant leaks or oil leaks  :)  I did not do any modifications to the rear 3 link yet none necessary to clear the 34's,  yes doing the mod you described would help  and I will look into it.  I concentrated all my time on the front and I still will need to redesign my steering once I return. ÂÂ
This is one of the rigs I'll be wheeling with (http://filebox.vt.edu/users/cbradfor/zuk%20buildup%2004/4%2013%2004%20006.jpg)  Corey Bradfords  Sammy (hard top). ÂÂ
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DAMN WHITFIELD , YOUR GOOD ;) I WAS BEGINNING TO THINK YOU WEREN'T GONNA MAKE IT ;D ..... MATTY D 8)
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DAMN WHITFIELD , YOUR GOOD  ;) I WAS BEGINNING TO THINK YOU WEREN'T GONNA MAKE IT  ;D .....  MATTY D  8)
[size=15]UPDATE[/size]
I've had about 8hrs sleep in 3 days, it's loaded i'm done.   BUT  It's not on 34's
The 4-dr will get the 34's and become a capable trail truck but not this weekend, it's gonna take some more time & money....
The long story:
:( :( :( ...  Yesterday  18hrs  before headding out.  I cut the front fenders and moved the front edge of the rocker back about 4" I installed and tested the 34's  They looked great and seemed to have good clearance.  My A-arms are almost level and the CV ange is near stright.  The truck now feels more like stepping into my 78 F-150  4-wd,  it has some height.   I pulled around in front of the house and flexed it up in the ditch.  The 34's rubbed the front floor,  but I had cut to the rounded part where your feet are and then masaged it and all the edges and corners with a hammer.  I cut all I could with out getting into the carpet / interrior  the front could live. ÂÂ
On the floor jack the rear tucked the 34 into the fender well ok and looked like the shocks would hold the tire from getting cut up,  not ideial but Ok for the weekend.  But when twisted up the tire was getting into the edge of the fender much further than I wanted.  SO I thought I'd let the front rub and stuff TJ coils in the rear (2" lift right?).  The TJ coils I tried to install in the rear were L O N G But I was hoping that they were also super soft as TJ's are.  I got one side in OK but prying the axle down with a 6 ft pipe to slip the other side in I managed to pop the upper 3 link ball joint :\\\'(  10pm dark everything is closed,  Panic  :o  ,  I just about cried.  I pried / popped the joint back back into place but I'm still not sure it will hold.  I made a few quick phone calls and am having a friend bring a spare upper link.  I also niticed that the SHocks were topped out with the truck on the TJ coils.  These are Long front shocks for my Sammy with 6" of lift.  So I swapped back in the GV rear coils with 2 stock spring insulators and a .5" spacer.  I was thinking  maybe I could run the 34's and let them rub, but these are new tires so save the 34's and be able to WHeel it like I stole it (I did sign up for the hard stuff)  I threw on a set of 32' Pro Comp MT's off of one of my Sammys.  The 4dr doesn't look near as nice with beater Chrome 5-stars & 32's But it does clear them well. ÂÂ
    Disappointed that it won't be on 34's but still excited I'm going wheeling....  I hope to get lots O pictures up next week and when I get home I'll throw the 34's back on.
EDIT: 8-7-04  Some how I forgot to slip in the Even pics...  Here are a few of my favorites
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/loadedup1.jpg)
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/spring_2004/2004_springDSC01097.jpg)
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/spring_2004/2004_springP4170116.jpg)
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/spring_2004/2004_spring100_0579.jpg)
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HAVE FUN! MAN YOU BE DEDICATED :o WILL BE WATCHING FOR THE PICTURES . MATTY D. 8)
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Hey man how goes the project more pics?
Also i did 1" coil spacers and .25 spacer in the rear but i think im gonna need a .25 more
what springs will give me like .5 to 1" more lift?
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Hey man how goes the project more pics?
Also i did 1" coil spacers and .25 spacer in the rear but i think im gonna need a .25 more
what springs will give me like .5 to 1" more lift?
Grand Vitara coils should give you about that much. ÂÂ
My next chapter:
Since Zuwharie I have been collecting coil springs to replace the GV coils on the front of my Kick.  I custom fabbed the IFS suspension to drop 4" and then Installed a pair of GV V-6 front coils with a Jeep Cherokee Coil spacer and a .5" thick ring (Piece of hard plactic / cutting board).  I now have 3 sets of Jeep Coil springs (unknown applications TJ & XJ and  a set of Like new Sammy Coils.  Well chatting on the BBS about Tracker Lifts and having to go cut grass around my dead Kick.  Got me itchin to check out the coils I've been collecting.  The GV coils and coil spacer did not give me the lift I expected so Installing longer coils seem like the next best answer.  If only it were that EASY... ÂÂ
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/804043.jpg)
GV Front coils (2wd V-6) compared to stock 4-door Front Coils (Rears are the same size).
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/804044.jpg)
Fronts standing upright  to give a better ideia of height differance.  GV coils have one more wrap.
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/804041.jpg)
Jeep Tj Coils compared to GV 4-door coils  4.25" longer (But smaller Dia wire with similar # of wraps...  Hmmm ???  :-\\\\ )
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/804042.jpg)
TJ coils inplace of the GV ones...
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/804045.jpg)
Desired 4-dr ride hight / stance.  Ok maybe not quite that high (tires are off of the ground), But close...  [naughty]
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/804046.jpg)
But once down off of the Jack stands ...  THe coils compress to the bump stops.  [crying] [crying] [crying]  THe A-Arms act as a leaver requiring a much greater spring rate. ÂÂ
I need a list of coil spring rates for OEM vehicles springs... ÂÂ
Growing Up is Hard to do!!!!!
Next step is to dig up those old stock 4wd Ford Ranger coils I've had laying around for 14 plus years, then maybe look to the local spring shop for some advice / information.
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Looks nice!!! Quick questions tho, What does it weigh on the trailer? I saw your tow rig and was wondering how it does pulling that much weight. That does NOT look like a light trailer! lol
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Well actually towing with a 200k miles S-10 blazer Sux. But it does out weigh the trailer and Kick (I think).
I am not sure of the combined weight. I usually tow with Granddads 32' Diesel pusher Motor home, But he was on Vacation.
The S-10 blazer did manage 70 mph From Richmond VA - Darn Near Charlotte NC. Just Leave a 1/2 mile or so for stopping. 70 mph I only passed 2 cars for the whole 5 hr trip. I was at least 10 - 15mph under the average speed
I averaged 12MPG with the 4.3 Vortec 4L60e, But NOT in OD. It was 90 deg in APRIL and I had to run the heat to keep the temp guage steady. The engine was screamin running 70 but it's a 200k mile truck it serves me well and just will not die.
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Yeah, thats what I drive too, 88 s10 blazer. My wheeling rig too untill I get a Sami!!! Just thinking that it's a LOT more weight then I would want to pull. :o Of course the 32's and the lift have a bit to do with that too! lol ;D
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As I understand the 1 ton 1993 Chevy PU's standard package was the 4.3L with the 4L60e, Though very few of these were made.  I was told that was the standard 1-ton package to help Chevy squeeze buy the C.A.F.E. fuel standards.  Just wish the S-Blazer had bigger brakes.  I need to add the box for the electric trailer brakes.
I put a $750 trans in it back at 164k. Using it is the only way I get the $$$ back out of it.
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u coould also do a break buddy setup..all the people in my grandpas RV group use them...it is just a compressor with a ram that pushs on the break when u apply ur breaks harder then normal..it is also meant to push the pedal w.o any power assist so u dont have to leave the car on or something..works really well and just uses the standard tow plug i belive
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Are you talking about surge brakes? I'm not sure I follow. I did accidently wire the adapter plug (4-pin to 6)backwards so the trailer's brake lights pulled a ground thru the trailer brakes. Stops the rig very well, but the brake lights didn't work so great.
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it is a little box that sits infront of the drivers seat on the floor..it has a built in compressor and an air cylinder that pushs the break down inside the car...so when u apply ur breaks the car does also
wait u put it on a trailor?? or u flat tow it?? the break buddy will only work if u flat tow lol
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Hmmm...
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/loadedup1.jpg)
Sounds cool though...
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that jimmy must be pissed!!! :o
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why dont u just flat tow? would save the weight of the trailor wouldnt it??
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For one reason you can not back up when you flat tow.  I have never had to unhook the trailer to turn around, even when towing it with the 32' motor home turning around on a narrow country road. I can put the trailer exactly into a drive way while backing up and turn it around precisly where I want to. I have about 20 more good reasons, but the trailer works well for me. ÂÂ
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 I have about 20 more good reasons, but the trailer works well for me. ÂÂ
One of them wouldn't involve the rear driveshaft blowing out allowing only the "plastic" driveshaft spacer to survive? ;D
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LOL!!!  Yep, That was Justin and his industructable Plastic drive shaft spacers....  Or the one where I broke the upper 3rd link the Night before Zuwharrie (Trying to force in a set of TJ coils) and the rear axle (in the picture) is only located by the 2 lower links.  I almost lost the coils by the time I got to Zuwharrie the whole works shifted so much.
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Well, according to Sean Deskinney a trailer isn't much safer ;)