ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: shakydoug on September 19, 2009, 05:34:34 AM
-
Is there a visual que or details on replacing front seal on 87 sammi/
Thanks
-
If its leaking it should be fixed. I replace them the "long way". I remove the oil pump (easier to get the seal out). Replace gasket and install oil pump. THEN I put the seal in. Its a small seal and is easy to manipulate with both index fingers starting from the top and eavenly seat the seal. Apply gasket sealer to the outside of the seal to act as sealer but most importanly lubrication for seating. It is the "long way" but the only way to insure no damage to the crank or oilpump and to insure 100% satisfactory results!!!!
-
PS
factory did not and I do not recommend a gasket for the pan. Only use sealer to insure full seating of the oil pan screws. To many times I have heard of a leaking or loose pan due to thread length or lack thereof due to the thickness of a gasket
-
thanks for the post, kinda like this order
1 remove oil pan
2 remove oil pickup tube
3 clean up oil pan
4 replace oil pickup tube.
5 replace oil pan, no gasket (thanks), sealer only
6 install front seal, sealer on o.d. of seal
When does removal of the oil pump come into play?
thanks
-
I would remove oil pump after pan, and re-install before you put the pan back on!!! (makes for a seamless seal w/ the sealer. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DONT FORGET THE O-RING THAT GOES ON THE PICK-UP TUBE. THAT IS THE #1 CAUSE OF ENGINE FAILURE ON RE-BUILT MOTORS.
-
Use ultra gray silicone only, not the blue stuff, gray is made for oil contact.
This is a pain job, you will need to drop the front axle too, so you might want to
lift the engine instead, get the pan off, then the pump and do a real good job, instead of
having to re-do a bad job 2 more times, ask me how I know. Do it the "long" way and save
yourself tons of time ;)
Wild
-
I laugh when people call and say "I only do it one time". I always say "Yeah but i've learned how to do it better the second time too".
-
Almost ready to tackle the front seal and oil pan leakage. Drop an axle, lose a few motor mount bolts? Hmmmm, With an overhead crane in shop, maybe lifting the engine would be an easier task. Dropping the axle? Good time to upgrade springs, not crazy to sink much at this time, deer season starts pretty soon.
Help me on this one, years ago when I ran a chevy, the guys down at Beaumont frame and front end would re-arch springs, add more leafs and get about 6" of lift, Has any body taken stock Sammy leafs and rearched for a couple more inches. Are the stock springs born the way mine are? reverse arch. Just wandering, some people would take old old bare block and a 20# maul and start beating. A couple of brothers and a 24 pack, they would do it in one evening, and charge me $80 (back in 1982. And then I've heard, domino hall talk, you could use a hydraulic press with a little finesse and re arch the springs.
Any thoughts, still would like a loping, 100 hp sammi,
shakydoug
-
Oh yeah, it's been a while since i did any wrenchin, but when i did i osed the ultra gold sealer on engine rebuilds