ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: mudhole on October 07, 2009, 12:47:56 PM
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just put a weber 38 on my Sami....at first it did not run much better than the old so I knew something was up...checked compression...leak down test...timing....points/rotor...all seemed good...I checked timing from back side of engine behind flywheel TDM was marked...2 degrees of or teeth from tdm on front side....does anyone think my crankshaft is twisted? ???
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TDM ???
You're more likely to have a damaged keyway on the crank/pulley than a twisted crank. If the crankshaft bolt (holds the timing pulley) runs loose, the pulley shifts and the key wears the keyway on both the crank and the pulley.
Do a quick search of the forum, you should find a couple of threads on the subject.
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The first issue is you put a weeber on it, go with a better fuel delivery system. And I have never heard of a Sami crank "twisting" although I have heard of them breaking in two.
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you could pull number one and number four plug and see if there the same tdc. but I would be more prone to think that the rubber on your harmonic balancer is getting old.
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you could pull number one and number four plug and see if there the same tdc. but I would be more prone to think that the rubber on your harmonic balancer is getting old.
Important point - I am not trying to show off how smart I am with this post. I have disassemlbed my fair share of 1.3 and 1.6 engines and am simply trying to share my experiences and wisdom (what little I have) on the topic at hand.
Not all crankshaft accessory pulleys (notably the 1.3 pulley & the 1.6 too!) have rubber in them. Maybe in V-6/V-8s but not these little engines!
Additionally, The timing belt pulley is fitted directly on the end of the crankshaft - not the accessory pulley, which is attached to the crank timing belt pulley. Thus, the "rubber part of the harmonic balancer being blamed for bad timing" argument will not work.
Wallowing of the keyway that holds the timing belt gear to the crankshaft is a very common event with the 1.3 and 1.6 engines.
Unfortunately the cause is not a design flaw but the acts of a booger-eating Moron mechanic/Previous Owner who tries removing the accessory pulley by removing the bolt in the center of crank instead of the 4 (5 in the case of the 1.6) bolts that fasten the accessory pulley to the crankshaft timing pulley.
If you look at the accessory pulley as the engine is running and you notice ANY wobbling of the pulley, you have a wallowed out crank keyway. You need to check it and see if it can be fixed.
for more info on this procedure, see this link:
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,26263.15.html (http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,26263.15.html)
Back to the topic at hand...
Sarge - the Samurai Weber Guru - once said that "a Weber is only as good as the engine it's installed in." If you have low compression, bad valves, timing problems (see above) and other similar engine wear, a Weber is not gonna magically make your engine run better. Check and fix these problems first - then concentrate on the Weber.
I installed a Sarge-prepared Weber in a newly-rebuilt 1.6 8-valve and got great results by following this wisdom.
I hope that this helps!
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Man thanks guys except the guy that says my weber is no good(just kiddin)...I was beginning to wonder if anyone was going to jump on this...I can see where the guy that had it before me or whoever had a belt wear grooves in the cover...so i am wondering if he is that Booger eating moron...I was hoping Sammypro would jump in here...especially since I got the carb from him or them...and i do know the carb is not the problem but I had checked everything before i bought the carb....all checked good...I just could not figure out that factory carb...and by a process of elimination removing certain vacuum lines i got it to run on all four...at first it just idled on 2 then you could drive it through the bad stuff and she would run fine...I took the big vac hose off that went to the tcm and she would idle much better...but then when you shift from 1st to second it would slam your head into the steering wheel well maybe not slam but you guys know what I mean...that last comment of see if it can be fixed....not real sure I understand that...couldn't I just replace the keyway?....thanks again guys
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TDM ??? tdc sorry
You're more likely to have a damaged keyway on the crank/pulley than a twisted crank. If the crankshaft bolt (holds the timing pulley) runs loose, the pulley shifts and the key wears the keyway on both the crank and the pulley.
Do a quick search of the forum, you should find a couple of threads on the subject.
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im awake, still problems?
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Just wondering if you had any thoughts? on what is going on...no wobble on pulley...
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adjustment scews on the carb? what did you set them at?...have you been able to isolate the problem to fuel delivery?
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All I have are 16 valve engines and they do have rubber on the pulleys (under them) and if it slips it will mess with the timing mark on the pulley to the cover mark. has nothing to do with the running of the engine unless you try to use those marks.
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TDM ???
You're more likely to have a damaged keyway on the crank/pulley than a twisted crank. If the crankshaft bolt (holds the timing pulley) runs loose, the pulley shifts and the key wears the keyway on both the crank and the pulley.
Do a quick search of the forum, you should find a couple of threads on the subject.
mr fordem...you get the prize ...key way was damaged...having to fix it with jb ...it was not as bad as some I have seen since I have been looking for the fix...I hope this works...
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I get a prize !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad I could be of help buddy.