I like the flat black hood it looks good with the green. I would paint the small pieces between the hood and the mirrors flat black as well though. But it looks cool!
Wow! Nice work on that head and valve cover! I like the patience and attention to detail. Makes me want to rebuild a 16 valve motor and replace my old worn out 170k mile 8 valve in the 1991 Tracker.
Keep up the good work! You won't be disappointed.
Heck, it makes me want to just take off my valve cover and polish it up... :D
i like the jeep fenders. what was the jeep that they came off
Looks great, where did you get the new suspension stuff? I may nee dthat for my 1998 Chevy Tracker.
NICE WORk the thing I want to know/ see is how you mounted the bumper to the kick.
could I see some pictures?
([url]http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Gallery/Tracker/OffRoading/4-7-10/1.jpg[/url])
This Saturday like 5 of us are going up to Raush Creek. I guess a Jeep forum is going to be up there, I'm taking the Tracker for one last 4x4 fling prior to tearing down the bottom end due to poor compression (90, 92, 75, 107) cause the rings are shot at only 113k miles.Are you going to work on the Turbo at the same time since you'll basically have a fresh engine?
I have diagrams for that winch; pm me an emaill addy and I'll send you 2 pdf's; there were two 5k configurations.
Are you going to work on the Turbo at the same time since you'll basically have a fresh engine?
The REALLY bad crossmember (whats left of it).
makes me wounder how rusty the rest of the rig is.
Really bad... that is one way of putting it. :D
Do you know what the factory called that paint color? Any chance you would know the paint code?
I've seen that style before, but I can't tell you which year rig I saw it on. So basically, I'm no help at all. :P
Looks good though, I like the snorcle coming straight up rather then off and to the side. Looks good when all polished up. Have you ever thought about getting an ARB style square top for the snorkel?
Was this engine just high mileage and worn out, or what? Did you use a certain kind of oil that deteriorated?
Was this engine just high mileage and worn out, or what? Did you use a certain kind of oil that deteriorated?
Engine is original to the Tracker, 117k miles, 60-70k of which was under my ownership. I always used 5w-30 oil and usually Castrol GTX and a few times Penzoil. Oil filter was usually STP and a few times Bosch, air filter was replaced twice in my ownership, currently have a Fram for the last ~1,000 miles.
35k miles worth or so it had blue smoke at startup, that stopped after head rebuild/machine work and new seals but under hard accel it still had a faint smoke, compression test resulted in low numbers, put 2 caps of oil in each cylinder and it bumped it up like 40-60psi each cylinder so I knew it was rings now and I also had developed a low oil pressure at idle (light would flicker) so I was about to stop driving it and it threw the timing belt. The new front main seal pushed out after ~1-2k miles and dug itself into the crank pulley and sprayed a little oil back there so IDK if that had anything to do with the belt walking forward and melting/eating itself after ~5k miles. It was a new Gates belt and tensioner set to factory specs via AllData.
umiami80,x2. Honda Odyssey FL350, my father and brother had those years ago, and had pistons that looked like they were melted. The Castrol GTX didn't hold up and was found to be a huge failure, especially in that engine.
I have heard horror stories about Castrol oil, may want to switch oil. just my .02 cents
KJ
Nice build up you make it look easy. FWIW I have been using castrol oil for 22 years and never has a problem, after the oil lite started to flicker you should have stepped up to 20w50.
Was this engine just high mileage and worn out, or what? Did you use a certain kind of oil that deteriorated?
Engine is original to the Tracker, 117k miles, 60-70k of which was under my ownership. I always used 5w-30 oil and usually Castrol GTX and a few times Penzoil. Oil filter was usually STP and a few times Bosch, air filter was replaced twice in my ownership, currently have a Fram for the last ~1,000 miles.
Was this engine just high mileage and worn out, or what? Did you use a certain kind of oil that deteriorated?
Engine is original to the Tracker, 117k miles, 60-70k of which was under my ownership. I always used 5w-30 oil and usually Castrol GTX and a few times Penzoil. Oil filter was usually STP and a few times Bosch, air filter was replaced twice in my ownership, currently have a Fram for the last ~1,000 miles.
Did you ever have any coolant loss? The reason I ask is that the color of your oil stains on the crank and rods is quite brown, which usually happens when you have coolant mixed in the oil. Ideally, the staining should be more to the blue/black color. Of course, I've never pulled down a Suzuki motor, so maybe that is a difference, but I've torn down a lot of other makes, and when I first saw the pic of yours I thought you must have had a head gasket leaking coolant into the oil for a while. That also would explain why your oil pressure was low at idle.
Any brand of oil doesn't do well when it has coolant mixed in. ;)
I used to know, but all I could find is 139.57 mm but it might be wrong,
for a 1.6 engine, both 16V and 8V engines have the same rods
Wild
I used an aftermarket head gasket on the turbo motor, no problems
The shorter rod will reduce your compression ratio, but are you still planning on building a turbo motor? or are you just looking for stronger rods?
I would look into forged pistons, about $400 for a set designed for the D16 engine, but watch the CCs in the dish as well as the CR of the piston, I ended up buying a set that was too tall and the CR was about the same as a stock cast Suzuki piston, not that it is bad, the stock CR is about 9:1 which is acceptable for a turbo motor, but I was looking for 8.5:1 or a little lower, I let the info on the piston specs cloud my thinking, it was advertised as 8.5 but what is really most important is the dish volume of the piston and the volume of the chambers of your head, that is what will give you your CR not the advertised CR of the piston.
Suzuki rods are plenty strong, and will easily take 200HP turbo motor application.
Wild
You saw the lightly spun or he told you it was? why did it spin? got to be oil delivery related, could be a junk crank if not for the Suzuki having much smaller main and rod journals.
Rebuild the rods and get the crank mains turned down to stock std. Suzuki journals and have it rehardened if needed, I'm not sure if it's needed on a crank or if it's just extra protection. Now you have a turbo worthy low compression bottom end with short rods
Ohh, and you will need to do something with the flywheel to fit the new crank too
This is a deadly build!! Nice job on everything.
Don't go too crazy trying to shorten the intake between the turbo and the throttle body, I had about 6' of 2" and 3" tubing, plus a Volvo intercooler and there was really no lag so don't put bunches of work into that, do something that is more productive.
Wild
I think 200 HP is a good but conservative figure, but if I were building your engine, I would use the 16V crank, it has double counter weights and is supposed to be better at high RPM by not flexing the crank like a single counter weight can do
Wild
So what was that manifold built for? a Honda or was it custom for the 16V Suzuki
Great detail on this build. Getting all the numbers together and deciphering them must have taken a lot of time. Looking forward to the rest of it.
Way late on asking this, but, back on page 2, you say that you are going to be moding the LCA for camber adjustment. Is the 1.5' x .75" ball joint RE-location mod, or are you doing something different?
What the hell, it'll make a good template! ;D Oh, any pic's of your control arm mods? I seem to remember someone doing something similar, maybe it was you. I've been searching this forum looking for pics, without luck. BTW, regular steel is fine for a manifold, just paint it with some of that ceremic high heat paint, Duplicolor works good.
Thats a good price for pistons, I had to go look them up, but those are cast not forged, on some other forums guys are running them high, like 12 PSI and more, and they say they are holding, they also say the pistons are noisy and sound like a diesel, but that was from large clearances like .035 for heat expansion, I think that's a little wide, but these are cast, and will expand more than forged pistons.
I paid about $400 for forged pistons, and those didn't include rings
Go easy on the boost, no more than 8 PSI boost on these would be my advice, but these could be those new Hypereutectic piston type too and those are stock in new Chevrolet vehicles
Wild
I'm in NJ too, always get some looks asking for premium, but I think it's just the modified Tracker.
Get that rig running so we can go out!I'm in NJ too, always get some looks asking for premium, but I think it's just the modified Tracker.
Nothing like cruisi around in the Pine Barrens for hours listening to music and relaxin with friends! One buddy is in Tabernacle.
you wont have to worry about it if you never get it done! :P
chop chop!! :laugh:
When you get funny looks asking for premium, just say it's got a turbo,
then they will probably want to see it, unless you don't have the time
to chit chat.
Wild
you wont have to worry about it if you never get it done! :P
chop chop!! :laugh:
Look who's talking! you ought to use velcro fasteners on your engines Jluck :laugh: :P
DAMN! What happened to that # 4 crank journal? Looks like it welded itself to the rod.
Any updates on this?