ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: zuki87jx on January 19, 2010, 10:14:55 PM
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Ok I have searched and searched but to no avail. My instrument cluster lights don't work, and after doing some research I found out that it is probably the dimmer switch. Being the cheapo that I am, I want to know how I would go about bypassing the switch. I found some topics about it but none actually said "splice this color wire with this other wire".
So if anyone knows how to do this could you help me out here, my current cluster light is my cell phone >:(
Also, if it winds up not being the switch what other places should I check.
Thanks,
Andrew
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Check the bulbs first.
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replaced all just in case already. also check fuses.....
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If it is the dimmer switch ( probably) why not just get another from a "you pull it " type yard? Probably only be a couple bucks. If there's no yard near you I'm sure someone parting out a vehicle in the classified section will have one CHEAP! Then it's just plug n play.
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The only problem with bypassing the dimmer switch is you can't make it darker. But I bypassed mine once it stopped working, it hasn't caused any problems.
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The only problem with bypassing the dimmer switch is you can't make it darker. But I bypassed mine once it stopped working, it hasn't caused any problems.
Yeah, in the years that i have been driving i have never run into a situation where i said " man i wish i could make these instrument panel lights dimmer" so that really doesn't bother me. how did you do it?
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On mine I just unplugged the switch and that took care of it. You might need to hot wire something on yours, I would have to take a look at the wiring diagram. The SJ-410 sometimes has weird electrical changes from the Samurai/SJ-413.
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yeah I unplugged at one point trying to get them to work but im pretty sure the hot for the lights runs through it so it should be fairly easy to splice it to something. I just need to know where to hook it up to make it work
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cant imagine wanting them darker, its hard enough to see them at night now, Im hoping a good clean well help brighten them up.
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yeah I unplugged at one point trying to get them to work but im pretty sure the hot for the lights runs through it so it should be fairly easy to splice it to something. I just need to know where to hook it up to make it work
You can make a short double ended wire with 2 male spade terminals on it and then plug it into the connector that you unplug from the back of the dimmer switch. IIRC, you want to find the 2 wires that DON'T have 12Vs on them (you have 3 wires to choose from) and connect those 2 together with your made up splice wire.
I can look on mine later, if you don't figure it out.
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yeah I unplugged at one point trying to get them to work but im pretty sure the hot for the lights runs through it so it should be fairly easy to splice it to something. I just need to know where to hook it up to make it work
Using Dice's 86-88 Samurai schematic, it appears that the Black wire is ground. The R/Y wire comes from a 5A fuse and the R/G wire is the variable output to the dimmable instrument lights. To bypass the rotary dash light dimmer it looks like you should connect the R/Y to the R/G. I can see no need for the ground connection when/if bypassing.
BTW, the four larger bulbs do get dark with age, and could benefit from replacing. You'll notice the difference. My cluster uses #158 (3.4W/2cp/500hrs rated life) OEM
Brighter replacements could be:
168 (4.9W/3cp/1500hrs rated life) -- 50% brigher & 44% hotter!
194 (3.8W/2cp/2500hrs rated life, 194LL (5000 hrs))
I'd be inclined to start with the #194 (LL) and see if you're satisfied wiith the brightness. If not, try the #168 bulb, but watch out for heat -- the cluster is mostly plastic and you could melt something.
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Not to high jack the thread, but I have a similar problem. Mine don't work either, but I know the dimmer control is good because the lights in the air control change. Bulbs are good. Checked them. Idiot indicators at the bottom of the cluster work fine. Weird. Any ideas?
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corrosion on the traces or the bulb holders, or check for voltage on the traces with
the instrument panel pulled out
Wild
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Ok so I am back I haven't check for new replies to my posts in a WHILE so I didn't know I had any replies sorry lol. Anyways thanks for the info next time I get some free time I take a look at it and use some of those ideas and let you know what I come up with.
Thanks
Andrew
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Don't mean to hijack your thread but my dash lights are out also(both cluster and hvac). I thought it was probably the dimmer so I switched my dimmer with a know good dimmer and no luck. I checked power going to the dimmer switch with a test light and no power. I did not see any listing on the fuse panel for the cluster but all fuses look good.
Is there a fusible link some where That I am missing?
If one bulb goes out do they all go out like a Christmas tree? won't help with out power.
Should I just put the dash apart and start chasing wires? :(
thanks
jason
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Try this:
http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam.htm (http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam.htm)
or this:
http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam_no-hitachi.htm (http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam_no-hitachi.htm)
The last time I looked, I believe that the illumination lamps on inside the cluster are wired in parallel - one burns out the rest stay on.
You might want to carefully inspect the flexible "circuit board" on the back of the cluster for broken traces - especially in the bulb traces.
Cluster Removal tip:
Loosen - not remove - the two Torx bolts that hold the steering column in place under the dashboard. This will lower the "emergency Flasher" switch on top of the steering column assembly enough to allow the dash cluster to pull straight out.
I hope that this helps!
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Don't mean to hijack your thread but my dash lights are out also(both cluster and hvac). I thought it was probably the dimmer so I switched my dimmer with a know good dimmer and no luck. I checked power going to the dimmer switch with a test light and no power. I did not see any listing on the fuse panel for the cluster but all fuses look good.
Is there a fusible link some where That I am missing?
If one bulb goes out do they all go out like a Christmas tree? won't help with out power.
Should I just put the dash apart and start chasing wires? :(
thanks
jason
So did you actually check for power on each side of each fuse in the fuse block? If not, do it.
The lights are not like xmas tree lights. If one goes out, the others will still work.
Since none of the lights are working, I am guessing fuse, open wire, or problem in the multi-function switch (the switch assembly on the steering wheel).
Oh, you did try turning the knob on the dimmer, right? If it is turned all the way one way it will dim the lights completely out.
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Thanks ack and Skyhiranger. It looks like I am an idiot and missed the license fuse when I pulled them all to check them. I did not know that it was the license plate light fuse. I replaced it with a 15amp fuse to check it and it blew the fuse right away. Looks like I will be chasing wires after all. >:( The color diagram is great and helped me out.
thanks
jason
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Thanks ack and Skyhiranger. It looks like I am an idiot and missed the license fuse when I pulled them all to check them. I did not know that it was the license plate light fuse. I replaced it with a 15amp fuse to check it and it blew the fuse right away. Looks like I will be chasing wires after all. >:( The color diagram is great and helped me out.
thanks
jason
If you have a test light, you don't have to pull all the fuses to check them. Just touch each side of the fuse with the test light and make sure it lights up (some fuses are only hot with the ignition switch in the run position). You can also do the same test with a multimeter, but it isn't quite as easy.
What you can do to troubleshoot is to unplug everything that the fuse provides power to. Then put in a new fuse, then start plugging everything back in one thing at a time, checking the fuse after you plug each thing back in. Then when the fuse blows, you know the last thing you plugged in is where the short is. So it is either in that component, or the wire that runs to that component.
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Fixed. I did not have my test light with me when it blew the fuse. I did have a flash light and pliers, so i just pulled them all. All but one I guess. I won't say how I found the shorted wire but I will say it was 99% stupidity and 1% smoke.
The short was caused by the radio ground wire being plugged into the red/yellow wire from the clock plug. I would like to blame it on the previous owner but I installed the radio. I don't think I would have plugged a ground into a hot wire, I am usually a lot smarter than that. Except that one time with a paperclip and a wall outlet when i was six, lots of sparks! The weird thing is, I was driving at night when it blew the fuse. The headlights had been on for at least ten minutes. It should have blown the fuse or smoked the wire as soon as I flipped the switch. Hmm... It is fixed now, but a light burned out last night. It is probably the RRO parts I have that are causing the problems. :-\
jason