ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Drone637 on January 29, 2010, 05:50:58 PM
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Introduction to Project: Trouble. So named because building a race rig for the Zukiworld Challenge is probably exactly that. :)
1991 Geo Tracker
2 Door Soft Top
Manual Transmission, 4wd
The goal of this build is to make a Zukiworld racer. Watching 2_dogs_inc run last summer showed us that you don't need to build up the rig to have fun and be competitive. Combined with the relatively short build time available we are trying to stay as close to stock as possible, adding parts to the vehicle as required to meet the racing requirements and add strength to known weak points.
Say hello to Trouble as she arrived fresh from the car lot that took her as a trade in:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S2CsZ_d5u8I/AAAAAAAACkU/3p37JKRpCeo/s512/CIMG0309.JPG)
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First item on order was a new set of seats. 2_Dogs_Ink liked his EMPI Race Trim seats so a pair was picked up from Jeepswag.com on sale.
Picked up a spool from Velocity from the Classified section, it arrived on my apartment 3 days later. It certainly won't be installed that quickly.
Ordered some Bilstein front struts from TireRack.com. Team Zukspeed ran them at the last Zukiworld Challenge and they held up well. I like them enough on my DD Tracker and they certainly look beefy so on Trouble they go. Special order part, it will probably take a month to get them. Should still be plenty of time.
Spent a day in the Garage helping BRD HNTR on the V6 installation, started stripping out the interior:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S2CrpFDVCUI/AAAAAAAACjs/RMpCytFDr6Q/s512/SSPX0403.jpg)
There she sits, with the tow bar removed and soft top pulled.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S2CroijuisI/AAAAAAAACjg/12kBitTJ2os/s512/SSPX0400.jpg)
Look ma, no seats.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S2CroYVFCRI/AAAAAAAACjc/0sGxXDqEpUA/s512/SSPX0399.jpg)
That is a lot of rug.
This weekend is busy but next weekend is scheduled for more work. Need to get tubing for the roll cage and plan my seat mounts. Should be fun.
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Awesome!! I cant wait to see your progress... I'vr got a list of honey do's that is keeping me from working on my project. May be a week or two... Keep the pics coming!!
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Whaddya gonna do for MORE POWER?
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Whaddya gonna do for MORE POWER?
Nothing! :D
It's being designed for the Zukiworld challenge. We might drop some lower gears in it if we can find them for an affordable price but the goal is to get her to the race track.
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Whaddya gonna do for MORE POWER?
Nothing! :D
It's being designed for the Zukiworld challenge. We might drop some lower gears in it if we can find them for an affordable price but the goal is to get her to the race track.
I thought the goal was to RACE her on the track. You can get her there, then I can RACE. Sounds good to me.
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any chance you want to get rid of that grill? it doesn't match the paint anyways. ;D
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hey i really need that tow setup i have the brackets that go to the sidekick, but not the hitch or cross member. 70 bucks?
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http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/classifieds/91-soft-top-plus-hardware-and-tow-bar/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/classifieds/91-soft-top-plus-hardware-and-tow-bar/)
Was looking to get $150 for it, but for just the hitch setup I'll take $100 and you pick up in Seattle area, or further north.
And I'm keeping the grill. :D
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ya i am in puyallup. Harbor Freight has them for 70??? Why 100
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ya i am in puyallup. Harbor Freight has them for 70??? Why 100
Does Harbor Freight really have a tow bar for that price for the Sidekick? Do you have a link or a part number? I have people asking about them all the time and don't really have an inexpensive answer.
Thanks, Eric
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Cool another challenger. I really like the idea of the Zukiworld Challenge, and I bet it will be a lot of fun.
I was just thinking....I guess you dont mind telling your challenger/s what you plan on running? I guess its just friendly competition anyways, so maybe everyone who enters should start a build thread....
Good luck, and keep us posted, I know I will be following this thread.
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[Does Harbor Freight really have a tow bar for that price for the Sidekick? Do you have a link or a part number? I have people asking about them all the time and don't really have an inexpensive answer.
Thanks, Eric
You still need to build a frame:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94696 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94696)
The main reason it is for a 100 is I don't want to part with just half of it, as I have no use for the other half. But I would probably take 90. Or less if you have a tow hitch. :D
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Cool another challenger. I really like the idea of the Zukiworld Challenge, and I bet it will be a lot of fun.
I was just thinking....I guess you dont mind telling your challenger/s what you plan on running? I guess its just friendly competition anyways, so maybe everyone who enters should start a build thread....
I'll be working on the project this weekend. If it makes other people want to build rigs and join the race I'm more then happy to share as much info as needed. :D
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I found one of those harbor freight hitches for CHEAP and picked it up. I have used it to tow all kinds of things. the last time I used it I was pulling a 4 door kick. I don't have the brackets, so I took the front bumper off and welded a 1/2'' by 3'' flat bar across the frame rails and drilled holes to match the tow bar. I might be interested in the brackets, but I would want them to be a somewhat easy bolt on and off setup. If you don't want to just let one piece go you could sell me the brackets and S.Sidekick the tow bar. what do you want for the whole thing and what do you want for just the brackets.
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Cool another challenger. I really like the idea of the Zukiworld Challenge, and I bet it will be a lot of fun.
I was just thinking....I guess you dont mind telling your challenger/s what you plan on running? I guess its just friendly competition anyways, so maybe everyone who enters should start a build thread....
I'll be working on the project this weekend. If it makes other people want to build rigs and join the race I'm more then happy to share as much info as needed. :D
YES, please keep 'em coming!!
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Came up this weekend to work on the project, had a box waiting for me. New struts have arrived:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S3hYcOYU8QI/AAAAAAAACnc/NJdSFFPAht8/s640/SSPX0416.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S3hYcFmcORI/AAAAAAAACnY/TOCnXhlWSQc/s512/SSPX0417.jpg)
We have done a test fitting for the seats, placing it 3" above the floor looks to be just about perfect. I hope to have a mock up of the mounting brackets finished this weekend.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S3hYcbnI7EI/AAAAAAAACng/H5Q_4PwxSCA/s800/SSPX0411.jpg)
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Nice work.. Hey, I think I recognize those seats.. Did they come from jeepswag.com? He's got a smoking deal on tan and beige racing seats...
Hutch and Kevin really liked those Bilstein struts on their ride. It'll be interesting to see if they work as well for you too!
-Eric
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Those would be the seats, the high back tan seats. Including shipping they run at $280, sadly he was out of black but you can get gray for another $65. They are pretty comfortable at 6'4 and fit just perfect in Tracker. I don't think there is enough room for the wide version of the seats but I could be wrong.
I'll post some pictures of the difference in size between the Bilstein and the stock struts. I've been happy with them on my DD so I'm looking forward to giving them a proper workout.
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For those of you interested in the difference between a stock OEM strut and the Bilstein:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S3sBUPao3KI/AAAAAAAACn0/a6kaT3VPsOY/s512/SSPX0419.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S3sBUMtx0MI/AAAAAAAACn4/xRaxcrUxVCw/s512/SSPX0420.jpg)
Which do you think will hold up better in the long run? :D
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WOW that is a big difference. my only question is it a solid shaft or hollow? It look way over kill compared to the oem strut. just wondering how much do those struts cost compared to the cheap ones?
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also, is there any difference in travel?
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Travel is the same and they are quite a bit more expensive then a cheap replacement at $275 for the pair including shipping from Tirerack.com. But I have had a cheap strut blow out after one trip, so it's a trade off. The part number is F4-V36-0399-H0, you can find them cheaper sometimes on-line if you search around.
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Finally had some time to dedicate to Project Trouble this weekend. First job was to pull the dash, which was surprisingly easy. The biggest pain was to disconnect all the wires for the stereo system that were attached to cable wraps on the dash.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_zEAujsI/AAAAAAAACyU/y9Ldwl7RHrw/s512/CIMG0484.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_0ytkk5I/AAAAAAAACyc/S7JrbNT7ttU/s512/CIMG0485.JPG)
Using a piece of PVC pipe as my size guide it looks like the cage can be installed on the passenger side. We will have to modify some of the mounting brackets for the dash but all should fit in place:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_2v-sSYI/AAAAAAAACyg/34Ej2_x0K78/s512/CIMG0486.JPG)
It won't quite fit on the drivers side though, the computer gets in the way:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_3ulujEI/AAAAAAAACyk/x8mYealBsOI/s512/CIMG0487.JPG)
But there is room if we move the computer slightly to the right. So a new bracket will have to be modified:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_4vGZUoI/AAAAAAAACyo/iiOaz-4s9nY/s512/CIMG0488.JPG)
Next we decided to take a look at the roof situation. A stock roof or equivalent must be in place. So we found a stock roof from a 4 door and trimmed it up:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_6fFwMjI/AAAAAAAACys/ug2GkOHoEto/s512/CIMG0489.JPG)
Made some marks and mocked it up. The roof will not be welded in place until the cage and everything else is installed but it looks like it will work. Now I am tempted to make a 'factory' fast back. The dent in the roof pops out easily enough, but without the extra welding the roof doesn't have any strength itself:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_8D8jEtI/AAAAAAAACyw/5r9HfLX6nMQ/s512/CIMG0490.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51_9qERT5I/AAAAAAAACy4/0_wzrYHeUOs/s512/CIMG0491.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S51__Y2fKBI/AAAAAAAACy8/OW0T74L5vsU/s512/CIMG0492.JPG)
Next week we hope to have the bender mounted and to be able to start building the cage.
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Great writeup so far Drone, keep it coming! BTW, those Bilstein struts look Bombproof compared to the Old Man Emu' I'm using. I guess the only advantage the OME'S have is a bit more travel. Don't forget to build some kind of downtravel limiter ( like a strap) into your front suspension. It's the topping out at full extension that destroys the struts, and I imagine your going to see some airtime!
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Great idea on the roof!
-Eric
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hey can you show how you set up your seats. i just picked up some with 5 point harnesses at last weeks swap meet. i also was planning on putting the front seats in the back, has anyone done this.???
Jon K.
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Cool this looks like ALOT of fun. A way cool fab job so far. Are you going to use the stock dash? or one of the nice aluminum ones?
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A stock dash is required by the rules. I'm planning on having the stereo wired up as well, but I'll probably bypass most of the factory wiring just to make things easier. :D
For the seats we are building new mounts but they are going to be bolted down and not have a slide rail. We should have them mounted next weekend.
After putting seats on my SJ-410 I decided the easiest thing to do when putting in 'racing' style seats is to just unbolt your existing seats and weld an adapter onto your existing frame. That way you keep the stock slide and it fits your rig properly. They had a great deal on seats down at the swap meet but by the time I got there they only had drivers side ones left.
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To funny, we got the same seats and shocks/struts. Also our car is red, and right now the dash is pulled for the cage. We had to take out all the dash vents to get the cage in there though. Pictures coming maybe tomorrow.
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To funny, we got the same seats and shocks/struts. Also our car is red, and right now the dash is pulled for the cage. We had to take out all the dash vents to get the cage in there though. Pictures coming maybe tomorrow.
96 vs 91, so I need to notch the dash instead. 2_dog_inc ran his cage through the speakers, just like you are doing.
And I have a black grill, so I'm special. :D
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ya i got brand new CSI racing seats, black and 5 point harnesses red, for 240. seats are reclinable and have sliders on them.
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I looked at those 5 point harnesses down at the swap meet. They work for street/trail rigs but unfortunately they were inspected in 2008. So not legal for racing. :(
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haha will they work?? lol theyll have to, and we all know that no harness can save our lives when we are driving a beast like these suzukis, :laugh:
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I thought the rules said anything after 07 was ok?
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First pics from the bender, now in place and the first trial bend for the cage. We'll see how much BRD HNTR decides to do without me. :)
It is a JD2 bender (jd2.com) with an aftermarket hydrolic arm attached to it rather then the manual crank. Setup for 1.5" .120 tubing.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S6CI1EKvmCI/AAAAAAAACzg/8Wtgr5jyog0/s512/CIMG0493.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S6CJHqeyhvI/AAAAAAAACzw/o32sDK3g8HI/s512/CIMG0494.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WIV2vVCibx0/S6CJH-YnrZI/AAAAAAAACz0/w4wlJdYh8mk/s512/CIMG0495.JPG)
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Please stop copying me. ;)
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Construction of Trouble's Roll Cage.
I had fun showing progress on something. To start bending tubing I had to make the pointer for the degree wheel, so my degrees may be slightly off.
For drivers side from floor I went 24" to a 43 degree bend, then from end of bend I went 17" to another 43 degree bend and I turned the tubing about 10 degrees to make this bend have a slight kick in it. Then I went 32" to the back Roll Cage.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIUaPKeoI/AAAAAAAAGbk/-gnDvKzX7w4/s800/CIMG0498.JPG)
Same thing for the right side, except be sure to turn the tubing with the kick going opposite direction as drivers side.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIQopAqNI/AAAAAAAAGc4/RCJOUqrCSdc/s576/CIMG0496.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LISiTicnI/AAAAAAAAGbc/iHg9pN_Wahk/s800/CIMG0497.JPG)
As things were going good, why not keep going? For back roll bar I bent drivers side from frame up, and it went great for the first half, then had an 1 1/2 extra in top crossing. So here is what it should be as my design, measured from Center line. [A 90 degree bend is |removethispart|@ 10 1/4" of tubing, and I did not use any 90 degree bends. I give this as reference as I do not have any total length figures.]
CL go 2" past CL and bend 10 degrees through CL (I wanted a bend in center, and I DID NOT COUNT THIS BEND). CL to first bend 70 degree at 15". End of first bend to second bend 21 1/2" with a 35 degree bend. End of second bend to frame mount 18".
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIXp01M5I/AAAAAAAAGb0/_C7Hzg7VS64/s800/CIMG0500.JPG)
Tacked back hoop in place, it will need to be cut out to drop cage down for welding front cross bars and braces.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIZQoRQdI/AAAAAAAAGb8/_XpqrZzBEjw/s800/CIMG0501.JPG)
Bottom bar is 45", top bar is 39".
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIa32eSMI/AAAAAAAAGcE/Y2vRLZguhEo/s800/CIMG0502.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIcu93VjI/AAAAAAAAGcM/p-J24b7GInY/s800/CIMG0503.JPG)
This is what is tacked up for now.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6LIeZMjCqI/AAAAAAAAGcU/M3Yg3_QDaag/s800/CIMG0504.JPG)
We have used Two 20' sticks of 1 1/2" 0.120 DOM, and will use the better part of another stick for back braces, cross braces, more braces, ect. We will cross brace the back roll bar from the frame on both sides.
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Why do I even bother driving up north on the weekends, you seem to get more done when I'm not there. Looks great! We also need to decide what color we are going to paint it. ;D
Remind me to remove the visors, doesn't look like they will be much use in their stock position. And do my eye's deceive me or did you decide to weld the roof in place as well? Do the doors still close properly?
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Hey Drone, who's your young helper? Sure seems to know what he's doin'!
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Why do I even bother driving up north on the weekends, you seem to get more done when I'm not there. Looks great! We also need to decide what color we are going to paint it. ;D
Remind me to remove the visors, doesn't look like they will be much use in their stock position. And do my eye's deceive me or did you decide to weld the roof in place as well? Do the doors still close properly?
I get started earlier than you. Of course photos look good, IT IS ONLY BENT & TACKED IN PLACE. Welding has yet to be done. No work on roof, might need access.
I thought your rides were RED and REDDER.
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But I make allowances for the roll cage. I would say go with the same color as on the SJ, but that paint does tend to rub off rather easily. Maybe go with the grey stuff we have down in the garage?
bentparts: That would be Grandpa. We try to get at least three generations working on the vehicles to make sure they are done right. :)
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bentparts: That would be Grandpa. We try to get at least three generations working on the vehicles to make sure they are done right. :)
That's awesome.
Any plans for this rig after the challenge?
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The next years challenge? :)
One of the reasons we are leaving the windshield and heater in place is in case we want to convert it at some point in the future. We'll see how things go this year.
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Hmmm I'm in need of a usable transfer case that's 91-98 but will have a fine spline output shaft (91-95), so I can install a 4:1. I'd gladly trade you cases from my '90 since you won't be using low gears ;D
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If you want to drive up and do the work. :D
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Hmmm I'm in need of a usable transfer case that's 91-98 but will have a fine spline output shaft (91-95), so I can install a 4:1. I'd gladly trade you cases from my '90 since you won't be using low gears ;D
Do you need the case, or good gears? I have a good set of gears, and good tail shaft case, out of either a 93 or 95 tracker. I cracked the fwd housing (by drop checking it) so that section is not useable.
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project trouble is looking mean!!! hey i made my brackets for the seats. i ended up taking the bottom frame of the seat like someone said, then took two peices of 1" square tubing to run across my seats horizontaly instead of vertically then welded them to the seat frame. the seats sit 1" higher than stock but fit perfectly! ill get some pics soon. anyone want to buy my old cushins They're like new!!
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project trouble is looking mean!!! hey i made my brackets for the seats. i ended up taking the bottom frame of the seat like someone said, then took two peices of 1" square tubing to run across my seats horizontaly instead of vertically then welded them to the seat frame. the seats sit 1" higher than stock but fit perfectly! ill get some pics soon. anyone want to buy my old cushins They're like new!!
Thanks for the compliments! You should post a How-To with pictures on your seat frame modifications. I have been looking at new seats for my daily driver and threw out the seats from Trouble before taking a really close look at how to add the mods. :)
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k will do, i am doing a coolant intake leak job right now on my Sonoma 4.3 so once i am done with that ill get some pics and post it.
Jon K.
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Do you need the case, or good gears? I have a good set of gears, and good tail shaft case, out of either a 93 or 95 tracker. I cracked the fwd housing (by drop checking it) so that section is not useable.
Not too sure. I'm still unsure about doing anything to my t-case and which way to go. A '93 just popped up for sale locally that says "make offer" it doesn't run and he said there's water in the oil and it stopped running on him. Could just be a head gasket but either way if it's a 4wd Tracker I can rob the case and make my money in parts if I get it for $500!
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Well if you need them, just let me know. It is not that hard working on the Transfer case especially if you have access to a FSM. Not a piece of cake, but doable. There is a gear in the front section that you need to pay attention as to the way it came out. There is a front side, and a back side (very little difference), and it only works right the right way.
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That's good news to me since I got the original 1990 FSM and an "electrical diagnosis" accompaniment manual as well when I bought my Tracker ;D
The '93 ended up being a 2wd, oh well. As usual, best to concentrate at the projects at hand right now (especially since I have a gaping hole in my backyard to finish making a pond out of!)
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Some pictures from the last weekend. We ran into a small problem with the paint not setting up properly forcing us to loose a day on the cage installation, but BRD HNTR was able to get the rest of it installed this week.
Pictures of the front hoop before installation:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6mahB1_URI/AAAAAAAAGgk/5p_ttFFgHjw/s512/CIMG0506.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6makfTEQkI/AAAAAAAAGgs/TLt92WB84Yg/s512/CIMG0507.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6manouL_XI/AAAAAAAAGg4/18OHVWR10Es/s512/CIMG0509.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6map0UtK4I/AAAAAAAAGhA/STTPo2ZoDfw/s512/CIMG0510.JPG)
And the rear cage install. The cage was mounted by cutting holes in the floor then building a table for the for the tubing to mount to on the frame. This allowed us to run the cross bar to a flat surface along side the main rear hoop. We will be frame mounted in 4 points, with the option of adding an additional 2 points in the rear if we require a 6 point frame mount.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6marqiCmdI/AAAAAAAAGhI/tIpSUD14qgA/s512/CIMG0521.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6mat1c1GPI/AAAAAAAAGhQ/5wn4ROggf8s/s512/CIMG0522.JPG)
A quick shot of the finished front cage in the vehicle:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S6mazO9LwUI/AAAAAAAAGhs/mwbKOjVsDZ4/s512/CIMG0525.JPG)
Full size pictures are being migrated to http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/RaceCar (http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/RaceCar) so you can check there for larger pics and for additional photos.
Main job for this weekend is the dash installation and to finish up the wiring.
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Hey, it's looking good!
I noticed something in the pictures and was wondering, how are you going to attach your racing harness?
-Eric
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Hey, it's looking good!
I noticed something in the pictures and was wondering, how are you going to attach your racing harness?
-Eric
The harness is going to be installed after the seat's are mounted. that way we can make sure that our harness is in the correct position and all the angles are setup correctly. We will add a lateral bar on the B-Pillar and weld the mounts to that.
That's the current plan anyway. :D
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How's it going guys?
-Eric
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How's it going guys?
-Eric
Put tube braces w/slide stops across X braces in roll cage for Safety Harnesses. Roll cage & seat mounts painted. Seats will go in today, and Harnesses should be here today also. Tires are mounted and on car. After spool in diff is installed it should be ready for FIELD TEST this weekend.
Still lots of smaller stuff like Fire Extinguishers, orange safety light, etc.
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Hey Drone, I thought you were trying to lightin' that rig up, what are those door panels still doing in there? They must weigh a pound at least. And how about the door windows? Really though, nice work so far.
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Not sure if we are going to strip these doors or not. I have found a second set of doors that we might pick up and cut down for installation along with the safety nets. Or vice versa, cut these doors up and keep the old ones for spares. That way if we decide after the season to turn it into a full wheeler we still have some good doors and glass. We even have a working stereo. :D
The Dash has been re-installed and the battery cut-off switch put in place on the passenger side for easy access. We still haven't decided what to do with the rear shocks yet though.
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BRD HNTR posted some picture updates. First is of the dash installed:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S71SiDodxuI/AAAAAAAAGkA/HHWZTT5JvsM/s512/CIMG0535.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S71Sjlqk0SI/AAAAAAAAGkI/LhY_Tg52Gwk/s512/CIMG0536.JPG)
Next is the roll cage with the drivers seat in place and the a safety harness in place. They shipped the wrong seat belt mounts, so the actual seat belt portion is not mounted yet. But the upper straps and crotch strap are in place.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S71SlZ_IUmI/AAAAAAAAGkQ/WK05Gm90WuM/s512/CIMG0537.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S71SneM1qmI/AAAAAAAAGkY/w2F9aLHEq38/s512/CIMG0538.JPG)
Realized that the Scout Project that hasn't taken off had a nice looking set of 30x9.5 tires on it, they are now mounted on the Tracker rims and are in place. Still a lot of work to be done, but it all looks doable.
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Another update from up north, the seats are not in place. Using the stock seatbelt mounting points for two of the lower belts.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S76XqgUm94I/AAAAAAAAGlU/IOIjNxi-bxc/s512/CIMG0544.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S76Xrv8IVzI/AAAAAAAAGlc/tiiTIZTJVMc/s512/CIMG0545.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S76XtbTThwI/AAAAAAAAGlk/u6O3mXLl5BI/s512/CIMG0546.JPG)
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The seats ARE in place, grade 8 bolts. Also last photos show shoulder harnesses installed correctly, as the earlier single seat photo has incorrect fastening of shoulder straps.
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Have you tried buckling in yet? Also I talked to Eric and David about the nets. They have to be able to open.
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Yea, fit nice and snug in the seats. I had to loosen the crotch strap up just a bit, if that is to snug it tends me make things a bit uncomfortable. :D
The net also needs to be mounted to either the cage or body, it can't just go to the top of the door frame. I also forgot to put one of the things I learned on here. When cutting the strap holding the drive-shaft out of the way when installing the spool be sure to hold onto the drive-shaft and don't let it fall on your face. It hurts.
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good one drone. so whats this setting you back so far? If you dont mind me asking?
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Most of the costs are listed, plus the vehicle. The main component is time, BRD HNTR has put a lot more in then I have due to Trouble being stored in his garage. Only having the weekends to work on the rig slows things down a lot. I also ordered a driving suit, gloves and such from Summit Racing and already had an approved helmet. I'll find out next weekend. :D
Windows netting is done, roof is on but may redo some of the mounting bolts, and the battery is tied down. When starting on the clutch work the adjustment nut snapped the threads, so we put a different clutch cable in. Clutch feels better so instead of replacing it we rebuilt the exhaust to 2 1/4" using parts from the Green Tracker. After looking at the Tim Robbel's pre-runner we decided to trim the bumpers up, looks great.
Hopefully the clutch won't need replacing, if so we can work on the little things and getting the rear safety light wired up.
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Clutch took 6 hours on Saturday, just didn't want to go in. But we were able to do some great work today. Added all the bracing, finished the wiring, riveted the roof in place. The only thing really left was to put on numbers and mount the safety light so we took it out for a test run.
Strut brace and strap to stop the strut from over-extending:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8veragKqWI/AAAAAAAAGsA/d4if1yoBnUk/s512/CIMG0556.JPG)
Brace for the idler arm on the steering.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8ves9OZ4UI/AAAAAAAAGsQ/MGnUJUKlSHE/s512/CIMG0558.JPG)
A-Arm brace and possible future skid plate mount.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8veuYUldKI/AAAAAAAAGsY/ezPgqfsbuXk/s512/CIMG0559.JPG)
Picture of successful test of the bracing and roll cage.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vevEzkFyI/AAAAAAAAGsg/b-4wb2rQZ_U/s512/CIMG0560.JPG)
Safety equipment safely thrown from the back of the vehicle, keeping itself safe.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vfAmfSwkI/AAAAAAAAGto/dvYij3xVsPM/s512/CIMG0569.JPG)
Slight bit of damage.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vfEkixzvI/AAAAAAAAGuQ/lExr67A4960/s512/CIMG0572.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vfDgHr77I/AAAAAAAAGuI/nQlpsEoy1vA/s512/CIMG0571.JPG)
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Power drifts through the field with the spool in back, playing with both 2wd and 4wd. Everything was running great. Jumped out of the drivers seat, let BRD HNTR drive. Took a long drift to the left, didn't have enough speed apparently and we caught a clump of grass and stuck instead of blasting through it. Went over, bounced once and did another full spin in the air and landed on the passenger side again. Head is a little sore as I wasn't strapped in as tight as I should have been and wonked my head on the first roll.
The start of the rebuild:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vfQMBtCLI/AAAAAAAAGvc/7xrwc9UNBbU/s512/CIMG0581.JPG)
And me with a funny hat to keep ice on the ear:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vfF0Qg7JI/AAAAAAAAGuY/VBrGxwmWawg/s512/CIMG0573.JPG)
Full pictures are on-line at http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/RaceCar# (http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/RaceCar#)
Also need to order a new shifter sheet, the transmission is a little loose and doesn't like going into 5th and reverse.
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HOLY COW!
Dude, you've got to wait until racing time to do that!
wow...
-Eric
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Well, now at least you have a reason to get rid of the windshield.
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I guess the name fits!
-Eric
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Since this was a trial run for the race, does it count as having the first roll-over of the year for the Zukiworld Challenge? Jay won the award last year. :D
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Time for the heavy equipment.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S81OqqDn6VI/AAAAAAAAGww/N-1I7cP6cGs/s640/CIMG0585.JPG)
Seems to have worked, we can now use both doors. Tomorrow I will try to fit the hood off the Brd Hntr, seeing as it will not fit properly with the envisioned motor change. Then the Project Trouble will look like the Drones ear probably does Dark Blue, Green, Red, & Black.
Loaded the campers on Trucks today to get ready for Race Day. It will be in good enough condition to race by this weekend.
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Sure am happy you guys are going to make it...
Dedication is spelled "t-e-a-m t-r-o-u-b-l-e"
8)
-Eric
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Another round up updates from the dedicated half of the team, the guys from up north.
Monday - Straighten body, fit fenders, adjust door:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8vfLCRXVFI/AAAAAAAAGu8/sF1UiaGvdyY/s512/CIMG0577.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-weXF_cUI/AAAAAAAAGyk/EkiW4iM-qB8/s512/CIMG0587.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-wf73eUDI/AAAAAAAAGys/kv2wjMums3s/s512/CIMG0588.JPG)
Tuesday - fit hood, mask & cover, paint:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-wkFeuu9I/AAAAAAAAGzE/Su0Lr0LPWCw/s512/CIMG0592.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-wnAKQq8I/AAAAAAAAGzU/eGMwmIX0iTY/s512/CIMG0594.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-wrzfjQYI/AAAAAAAAGzw/Md7G-fpTYwQ/s512/CIMG0599.JPG)
Wednesday - repaint hood, remove masking, put lights and trim on, put decals on:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-wyhlvP0I/AAAAAAAAG0c/b3CoX7TyEpc/s512/CIMG0605.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-wzzSOkvI/AAAAAAAAG0k/yrU4dGgcHsg/s512/CIMG0606.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-w5tnAsXI/AAAAAAAAG1E/ibi-jJkNMGo/s512/CIMG0610.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-w1MVbWoI/AAAAAAAAG0s/S42kfPZKwQE/s512/CIMG0607.JPG)
It's a wonder I head up north at all. They seem to get all the work done when I'm not around. As always, full size and additional pics available at http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/RaceCar (http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/RaceCar)
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Nice come back you guys. That thing was pretty messed up, but now it looks great.
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The project is looking better and better....even after a rollover. I really like the hood logo, nicely done.
So was the drifting session to determine the driver? ;)
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Hey Drone, as I read the rules you have to put the number on plates in a certain place. Just a FYI for ya.
"Numbers must have one inch of space between them.
Numbers must be a minimum height of eight inches and be a minimum of one and
one half inches wide.
Minimum number plate size is ten inches high by fourteen inches long.
Numbers must be located in the following positions: On the rear of race vehicle, high
and close to the back of the cab and on both sides of the vehicle."
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Looks pretty awesome guys! 8)
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Hey Drone, as I read the rules you have to put the number on plates in a certain place. Just a FYI for ya.
"Numbers must have one inch of space between them.
Numbers must be a minimum height of eight inches and be a minimum of one and
one half inches wide.
Minimum number plate size is ten inches high by fourteen inches long.
Numbers must be located in the following positions: On the rear of race vehicle, high
and close to the back of the cab and on both sides of the vehicle."
As I read it you had to have numbers that are 8 inches high and a minimum of 1.5 inches wide with and least 1" between the numbers, one on each side and one on the rear of race vehicle high and close to the back of the cab. We put it on the tailgate as we are actually running one without a spare tire on it.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S8-w3vTJQWI/AAAAAAAAG08/ymZjsg7oqBc/s512/CIMG0609.JPG)
The rules don't say anything about where to place the number on the side of the vehicle. Just that you have to have one that is easily visible and identifiable by the scoring table.
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Miraculous recovery!
-Eric
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Before the race I put on a set of 'high end' Gabriel shocks from Autozone. They seemed to hold up, could have used a bit more travel and cushioning when coming off of a jump or hitting bumps at high speed after going down a dip. Still, they worked well enough.
Successful race. During pre-running we almost overheated as the electric fan stopped working but BRD HNTR noticed it in time. Ends up there was a dent from when the vehicle was rolled that was catching the fan blade. Some time with pliers and a mallet fixed that. We also broke one mirror off and the air horn filled up with dirt and stopped working by the time I actually had a reason to use it.
The front wheels look to have the same alignment as when we started, so the bracing worked and the front struts stayed working without issues all day.
Some teaser photo's from the race. More pictures and video to come as time moves forward.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S9XQ_Lpn32I/AAAAAAAAG2E/1WICePlokCM/s512/IMG_2725.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S9XQ_yxmCHI/AAAAAAAAG2I/0fZ8ROX4WG8/s512/IMG_2726.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S9XRArQYKYI/AAAAAAAAG2M/9guq7HyTGOE/s576/IMG_4886.JPG)
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Looks like a blast!
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It was. I recommend people build their own rig up and come out to the next race if they have the time. :D
I forgot to mention my sponsor!
Fuzzy Mutt - fuzzymut.net - All natural Dog snacks, shampoo, toys and other items for your favorite animals.
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With three races in the books I figured it was about time that an update was posted to the build thread.
Damage from the Race:
Rear Shock Mount
Missing Rear Spring
Front Hubs
Radio
It looks like the rear bump stop was destroyed, that meant the shock was acting as the bump stop. And caused the failure mentioned in the article available at http://bit.ly/c3PzXK (http://bit.ly/c3PzXK)
No idea about the front hubs, but neither one is engaging at the moment. That caused BRD HNTR to go off the track as he claims the vehicle didn't pull through the corner like he was expecting. We will never know the truth as I forgot to turn the camera on during his version of Mr. Toad's Wild Ride on the first lap.
The radio fell inside the dash again. I'm debating removing it. Or building a better mounting brace.
How Project Trouble Held Up:
The Bilstein Front Struts were great on the first race and held up half-way through the second. But with the rougher coarse the front struts were all but gone by the third lap. I talked to Bilstein's warranty department about this and they offered to rebuild the struts for $75 with racing oil which should handle the temperatures. So those are to be sent off next week for repair, we'll see how they hold up.
The rear shocks that managed to hold up admirably during the first race were no match for the constant pounding and gave up about half-way through the first lap, causing a much rougher ride. The Eddieville tracks smoother sections probably gave them time to cool down, something not available at Goldendale. But she was still drivable.
The front strut tower bracing hasn't moved yet, so it looks like adding the internal re-enforcement was a success. It was certainly easier then putting in a strut tower brace.
Low Range is where it is at. It is rare that I top out on 5th gear and the close mesh of 3rd and 4th make for much better racing then trying to jump between 2nd and 3rd.
Thoughts on the Project:
If your doing this, secondary bump stops are a must. Especially on the rear. This would have saved our rear end and allowed us to probably run the entire third race, even in 2wd mode. So when you build your rig, pick up a set of bump stops to throw under the frame.
2wd is easier. Less stuff in the way and you don't have to worry about your front end breaking. It is probably best to get a 4wd Tracker and convert it though, welding a cover over the front output shaft. That way you get low range. But there is something fun about having a 4x4 racer. :D
Power Steering wouldn't be bad. Not so much for easier steering, I have never had a problem with my arms getting tired. More for the quicker steering it provides allowing you to cut back and forth faster. Of course, it is just another thing to go wrong.
Rear Shocks are a tough one. Without building new mounts you can't really get the shocks you need to keep cool, even expensive shocks are going to get eaten alive. Until your ready to build something for the back end cheap replacement shocks and an understanding they are going to fade is probably your best bet.
What's Next:
We have some pretty cool things in mind for Project Trouble v1.5. We are limiting our changes to the rear end and keeping them simple for now. Borrowing (stealing) the modified 3 link from BRD HNTR's V6 project and going with a slightly different spring and shock setup. Look for updates as we get closer to the end of August!
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Excellent update! Thanks...
-Eric
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Great info.. Thanks.
Zig
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What a serious project. I like the design of roll cage. Really good repair and paintjob after crash.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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What things have you done to get ready for this year??? ???
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Nothing yet. :D
For the rear:
Last year we installed some dual-rate springs in the back, that should take care of the bottoming out issue. The lower links have been extended to help soften up the ride and the 3-link modified to allow more droop.
I picked up some 14" travel remote reservoir shocks that will need to be installed along with some limiting straps so the springs won't fall out. Then add some bracing to the rear axle, possibly replace the upper 3 link with a triangulated 4 link setup.
For the front:
Switch to one-piece hubs from a Vitara.
Possible Plans:
Looking into what can be done internally to beef up the rear axle. We'll see what we end up with.
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Sound good. I wasn't sure how much you can alter the suspension.. Sounds like you can do whatever you want so long as you use suzuki axle housing and non-coilover shocks.. Aside from remote mounting the shocks. I'm thinking long travel 4 link rear and custom dual a-arm setup up front!!! I gotta chat with Eric to make sure that fits within the rules.....If so, I'm gonna be joining you at the races!!! ;D
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Not only is it within the rules, but that is what Eric has on the Zukiworld 2wd racer. :)
One item of note is that this year is the races we are running. A fuel cell is now required and we aren't running on quite as rough of a track. You also are not allowed to use external bypass shocks. The internal bypass shocks will probably also be made illegal.
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Not only is it within the rules, but that is what Eric has on the Zukiworld 2wd racer. :)
One item of note is that this year is the races we are running. A fuel cell is now required and we aren't running on quite as rough of a track. You also are not allowed to use external bypass shocks. The internal bypass shocks will probably also be made illegal.
Great news! I'm gonna build one then!! I even have a couple buddy's that are interested in putting together a team.. Just gotta find a good donor car ???
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Any updates on project trouble?
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The dash is torn apart at the moment, getting new wiring. We broke the dash mounts off in the last race so we decided to pull out the heater and re-wire things in a more race car like manner.
Found a broken motor mount, so the engine is currently being held up by the hoist while we get a replacement in place. We also need to fix the exhaust.
So it's going to be a busy couple of weeks. :)
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You might consider chaining down the engine. Eric broke a mount on the very 1st race 2 years ago. Having seen that I chained mine down.
So you guys are coming to the dunes then?
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Going to try. I have the weekend off so we should either be down there or finishing the rig up. We are looking at either building new mounts or running lag bolts through it.
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Rear shock is mounted on one side, not on the other yet. The engine is back in the car but the new mount hasn't been built yet. Everything that isn't needed under the dash has been torn out but I still need to build the new switches and such for lights. It's going to be a busy weekend when I get back up north to work on the car with BRD HNTR.
And we are hoping to have it done in time to take the 4th of July weekend off to do some fishing and light wheeling with the SJ. :D
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Bummer, I will miss the picnic table full of good beer. ;D
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Bummer, I will miss the picnic table full of good beer. ;D
By 'good beer', is that the stuff that was stashed in my ride as I said my good bye's to head cross country in the Tracker? 8)
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Bummer, I will miss the picnic table full of good beer. ;D
By 'good beer', is that the stuff that was stashed in my ride as I said my good bye's to head cross country in the Tracker? 8)
I'll make it up to you next October and in Reno. :D
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Oh, dont get me worng. We drank them on the way back.... some were tasty, and STRONG!!!
Zig
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Yea, they can be like that. :)
What is your preference? Other then cold and free?
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Ok, a lot of work done this weekend. Shock mounts are finished, new engine mounts are in place. Basic wiring for the rear lights is done and we have tracked down another headlight.
Fuel Cell has arrived and we know how it will be mounted, but hasn't been mounted yet or plumed in. Neither has the fuel pump.
Wiring needs to be completed, relays and switches need to be setup to run the headlights, brights, running lights and brake lights.
Side protection bars need to be installed. Then the front seats re-installed.
Pictures from some of the updates will be coming later.
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Picture Theater Time:
New jack from harbor freight, much easier to drag around:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iS13SuxG6h8/Tgv-CyQrTpI/AAAAAAAAJI8/ASeeWQ1bW44/s512/IMGP0983.JPG)
Shocks from the outside:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UVbIXXkWzjc/Tgv-D589ATI/AAAAAAAAJJA/NB9d3Zda4m4/s512/IMGP0984.JPG)
And looking at the inside:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-12YizbuD_VM/Tgv-E0snnQI/AAAAAAAAJJI/HF4lZMNlCLw/s512/IMGP0986.JPG)
The other member of Trouble Racing, my brother:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pfN6YAvEwc0/Tgv-KTjRSKI/AAAAAAAAJJc/eNZ0puLideI/s512/IMGP1003.JPG)
Hood pins:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wC4ITnVchsg/Tgv-GHZQJhI/AAAAAAAAJJM/lC5bTi_pVPY/s512/IMGP0988.JPG)
And one piece hubs so they don't fail like last time:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kTxzkKn8C9I/Tgv-HK3rFlI/AAAAAAAAJJQ/Mq3F-pay9Xk/s512/IMGP0996.JPG)
Full pictures online at https://picasaweb.google.com/105298426119042245963/RaceCar#
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You are going to love those rear shocks. What valving did you get?
mine
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d35/bigzook/CHerry%20Bomb/_MG_5372.jpg)
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You are going to love those rear shocks. What valving did you get?
mine
([url]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d35/bigzook/CHerry%20Bomb/_MG_5372.jpg[/url])
So much more room under there w/o the fuel tank. I was concerned about running the shocks on the outside of frame because we had tire rub on upper inside of wheel well, and the shocks would be right there. We have longer springs now, but to stay safe we ran them inside. Also raised the mounting points to keep from catching them on rocks and things. Didn't like them sticking that much below axle.
Your looks good under there.
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You are going to love those rear shocks. What valving did you get?
mine
I'll have to look it up. They feel pretty good back there though.
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Ok, I have no idea what my current valving is on the shocks. I'll have to try and track that down.
So work from this weekend. So upon further testing we found that the switch on the key was bad, the 'on but not when starting' option was broken, but it ends up the power section of the key is pretty easy to rebuild. So we now have a working ignition system.
The re-wriing of the motor from pulling the dash out is almost done. But we have the motor running with the new fuel pump and the fuel lines run. Now we need to finish up the plumbing (thanks Bigzook for the info) and mount the tank and the drivetrain should be just about back to where it was last year. So the next major hurdle is wiring up the lights and mounting everything. Then fixing the roof and some touch up paint.
Nothing like wrapping up at the last minute.
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Ok, I should read more threads. Fuel Cell and Firewall is in. A little overkill on firewall, but was going from rules. It is in and only a few gaps around roll cage. Sealed the floor, so spilled gas can not get into drivers compartment.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fF8SJJI_ELQ/ThU9Js7XUCI/AAAAAAAAJL0/EJqwTUoUFYs/s912/2011-07-06_21-32-32_125.jpg)
I know vent has to go outside of car, but that is the length of hose at hand for now.
Where to put spare tire now?
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Wiring is done, dash is ready to be put back in. Was stuck doing work for work all Saturday and slowed things down.
Not sure how pretty she will be when we get to Reno but we should be there. But it's going to be tight...
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So it ends up that the old radiator had a leak in it. I can only assume it was one of the three radiators we tried out, all that had leaks in various places. So another radiator goes in tomorrow. It will match the water pump that started squealing at us. So a busy day tomorrow as we are trying to get ready to leave.
Things to install:
Rear limiting straps
Emergency gear
Wiring for secondary lights
Headlights
Boat letter Z on all the numbers.
Then we probably call it good, load up and head down.
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Ok, it was done. Now that the race is over we can officially unveil why everything else took so long. I would like to introduce the second half of Project Trouble:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kdTXQX5V-sM/TipUa4Tk3CI/AAAAAAAAJNk/1d1S9lEKySs/s512/IMGP0030.JPG)
Yea, a 2003 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.0L rated for 155hp.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-12KG6-1HAKI/TipUbYz8P5I/AAAAAAAAJNs/W3sFrlhoMsw/s512/IMGP0033.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u_JJGGxaHf0/TipUtvYHINI/AAAAAAAAJOE/CAr9HZZ0wyg/s512/IMGP0968.JPG)
BRD HNTR sizing up the exhaust.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZllgwSx0r3E/TipU1x3Nn9I/AAAAAAAAJOM/8rYls207H4s/s512/IMGP1000.JPG)
Derek hard at work with the new motor mounts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EvRPdZ5SIDA/TipU_7gtXuI/AAAAAAAAJOU/HmPkMYarMKo/s512/IMGP1018.JPG)
A shot of our drivers side motor mount, one of two on that side. No worries about breakage there.
The difference? Massive. I was able to hit 85 on the straight stretches before I backed back down. Anything over 65 I had to be in 4wd or the rear end started to move around to much. Details on the next thread.
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2.0L installation:
Bolted up to the stock transmission using a modified flywheel from Trail Tough. The stock clutch worked fine, but did heat up a little on the initial 40 miles when doing a lot of climbing in 1st gear, so a 4 door clutch at the least is recommended, probably a Centerforce. I stayed in high range the entire race.
Stock passenger side motor mount is used, but a mount coming from the motor was used. For the drivers side two custom mounts coming off the frame were made using bushings instead of the stock rubber block. They will not move. After making them we realized they should be on the same plane on the frame to allow the engine some more movement, but it was to late. For a dd we would design a bit differently.
Exhaust uses the stock pre-cat. This allows us to keep the stock electronics in place. We then go down to a flange with springs attached, a great way to keep your exhaust in one piece. I ripped 3 mounts off the muffler and smashed in a 3rd of it on something, with the old exhaust we broke two studs off the header. On this one, we just strapped the muffler back in place with some wire and went on our way.
The cooling system was an issue. Due to the water outlet going straight back we had to cut a hole in the firewall and do a 180, then bring the cooling line back above the exhaust and route it into the stock radiator. With a 2.0L Tracker rear outlet it is already coming out 90 degrees, and you could keep the lines inside the engine compartment. Without a heater our way worked just as well. And faster. The electric fan relay is wired to an AC over-ride that kicks on at 215 degrees. A bit hot but serviceable. We didn't need the fan as long as the car was running above 25, it air cooled nicely. Stock radiator and the fan is from an AC Tracker.
Computer wiring. This was done by BRD HNTR with experience gleaned from his V6 build. Everything runs into the stock Aerio computer, just on the passenger side instead of going in the drivers side. The engine does not run error code free, partially due to this being an automatic. If we were using a manual then many of the error codes would be gone. But we were able to monitor everything via the ODBC II connection, it all ran.
The dash is stock. The tach was connected to the computer and stock speedometer is used. The oil light should work, but the temp gauge did not. So BRD HNTR plumed in a new temp sensor, we wired the temp gauge directly to it and it works fine. It's not an exact gauge, but it works.
Serpentine belt, didn't work quite right. By default there is an AC pump and Power Steering box, neither of which we use. So we had to track down an AC bypass pulley to install where the power steering pump normally went. A custom bracket and it bolted up fine, but a bit to tight. Eric helped us find out that the reason for an idler pulley squealing was the belt was to tight. A 1" longer belt and she ran great, until the belt disintegrated 55 miles into the race. The stock belt went back on, stretched out and ran without issue for another 80+ miles. So chalk that up to a bad belt.
Air filter is an off the shelf K&N. It was coated with dust and then some by the time we stopped. Next time we need to build a housing for it and route it into the cab to help keep as much dust off as possible. Or at least run a pre-filter.
Hood pins. The hood is held on by pins, I thought they were left off at a pit stop, but thanks to my GoPro HD Camera I can watch one slowly back out and the second fly off when I hit a big bump. Then up comes the hood! So next time, locking hood pins.
Final thoughts: A lot of work, but she was wicked fast. A shame BRD HNTR didn't get a chance to drive it.
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Sneaky! That looks like a decent donor car there. That should be a screamer. I like that family of engines.Waaay cool
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Sneaky! That looks like a decent donor car there. That should be a screamer. I like that family of engines.Waaay cool
The donor car had just been T-boned. Price was right, and then I stripped and sold parts, and rest of car to start the conversion at par. It is a sweet engine and has much more power than Drone's 1.6 16v.
Also needed to change out oil pan and pickup tube.
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Video of the first 1:30 of the race:
2011 Vorra USA 500 - Start to Break (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz1PiPiBty0#ws)
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Man that looks like big time fun! You were doing great what happened? Also, how do you know where the course goes? I didn't notice any markers. And what was the last thing I heard heard on the vid? :laugh:
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What last thing? I think it was static. :D
Later on you can see course markers, they did a really good job on making sure we went the correct way.
There was a bad weld on the modified rear center link. We knew it wasn't the greatest but figured it would hold, one of those 'if we had more time' things. Luckily BRD HNTR was able to get it repaired and we went back out just over two hours later. We were eventually taken out by losing the transmission from driving 70 miles without a clutch.
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Bummer, but it looks like you guys are getting closer to the hot setup. That type of racing looks like a total blast, makes me want to move out west even more.
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Tore into Trouble this week. The skid pan had about 50lbs of dirt on top of it and the reason we lost a clutch was it was filled with dirt. Ends up we didn't have a dust shield after the engine swap, probably because the stock one no longer fits. Also, the exhaust was destroyed. I took out about 3/4 of the muffler. Slight flow issue there.
In either case, she is up and running again. Need to do some wiring, put the passenger seat back in, paint up the scrapes and such and get some new front springs.
Next year the skid plate is going to have some speed holes cut in it so the dirt can fall out.
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What ended up with the transmission? Will we be ready in a couple of week? might be able to sneak over Sunday but no promises lot going on here on the island.
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It was exactly what we thought it would be, the tab on the shift lever broke off, they have that little dog leg thing that moves the shifter forward about a foot. We actually cut off the transmission tunnel, I will work on making brackets to put it back on. This way we can get into the top of the transmission earlier in the future.
BRD HNTR made a new dust shield, since the oil pan on the 2.0 meant we couldn't use the stock one. We'll see how it holds up.
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We actually cut off the transmission tunnel, I will work on making brackets to put it back on.
Please work your magic to keep the engine compartment separate and maintain your firewall.
:)
-Eric
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Yep. It was just the top of the transmission tunnel, we wanted to be able to get to the shifter mechanism without having to drop the transmission. We ended up having to drop it anyway. :D
New front springs go on today along with wiring work.
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It's got to get pretty dusty in there while racin, how do you keep all the dust and dirt out of you?
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With a driving suit. :D