ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: zaggy on May 14, 2005, 03:23:46 AM
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This is a question for the hardcore engine performance gang out there. I'm new to forums in general but not new to Suzuki, been building and playing with the engines since 1991. But this one has got me stumped.
1990 G16 8 valve, this engine is built to the max..
balanced, blueprinted, ported polished, nitrided, beam polished, crank knife edged it's got it all.
9.0: compression ratio
Stock camshaft/rockers
Calmini tri y header
Custom hand made intake
(2) CD 175 Stromberg carbs
Crank fire ign..max advance 36 degrees |removethispart|@ 7000rpm
  The engine was designed with the intent of producing
100hp |removethispart|@ 6000rpm/105 ft/lb of torque |removethispart|@ 4500rpm approx
all systems have been throughly checked and are operating perfectly...
  I've built 5 other test engines, all 1300's same combination, never had a problem. This 1600 has got me stumped.
  On the test bench, under load, I'm out of power |removethispart|@5000rpm. The 1300 * valves peaked at 80hp |removethispart|@ 6500 rpm. I really want 6000rpm.
  I repeat all systems ignition, carbs, exhaust, compression are perfect. I am thinking ether I have installed the cam out a tooth (unlikely but not impossible) or I need more cam...your thoughts.
I specifically used the stock cam as it should have put the power and torque where I wanted it.
This engine is being used on an airboat, and I am loading using a prop designed for the application.
I am also building another same spec for my 2WD tracker I am building for my daughter.
Zaggy
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The 1300 * valves peaked at 80hp |removethispart|@ 6500 rpm. I really want 6000rpm.
what does the * mean ???
Did you use 1300 valves or a 1300 head ?
if this is the case I see a flow thru the valve
problem, 1300 valves are a little smaller than
1.6L valves
Your list of engine mods looks impressive, except
you skipped a few performance mods, like a Cam
and some higher compression pistons, 9.0:1 is
below stock (9.1:1) and if you ported too much
with small valves and/or a stock cam you don't or
won't have the desired intake charge velocity to
make the power you seek.
Get back to me or post some more details,
I might be able to help your thirst for power
Wild
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I thought stock compression was 8.9:1 ???
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Thank you for the response wild...
The * was a typo, should have been 8 valve.
The head is a 1600 8 valve, stock valves. Porting was a clean up and polish, not apprecaibly increasing the size of the runners. Light pocket porting in the valve bowls.
  The valves and seats are a five angle grind that we have played with, gives good flow, really good life.
  The camshaft is the stock 1600, chosen as it makes peak power at the target rpm and peak torque should have wound up where I wanted it. I'm not after monster power...just good power, extreme reliability at 4500-6000 rpm, thats why all the mods.
  Once the engine reaches 2/3 throttle it is at 5000rpm, opening the throttle more gets "0" more rpm. There is no ignition break up, compression, valve clearances etc all one the spec. It runs really well at 5000rpm, it just won't go higher.
  The plug colors, timing curve, max advance (36 degrees) are all on the money, spark intesity you could almost weld with.
  All systems excellent. After working over the system the last 10 days I'm narrowed down to three things possible...
- Carbs waaaay to large, but I don't think so from the
 throttle response and plug color, but possible.
- I've got the cam advanced 1 tooth, I'm an experienced
 builder so I don't think so...but everyone makes
 mistakes.
- Not enough camshaft for the combination. I'm not after
 big rpm (over 6000rpm) power so I felt the little more I
 wanted would not need an aftermarket cam, but
 maybe I'm wrong. The carbs normally feed a 2.0l car, maybe the effect of reduced velocity and stock cam are fooling me. But again, excellent throttle response and it runs so good.
Has anyone every tried retarding the stock cam 1 tooth?
I'm certainly open to any observations as this one is a bit of a mystery.
If I don't figure it out soon I'm going to pull the engine back out and start rechecking cam timing marks etc...but it runs so good I thought I'd try the forum cause I must be missing something.
Zaggy
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The difference in the engine size from the
carbs intended engine and the 1.6L Suzuki
engine are not an overkill in my opinion, I do
however think the stock cam is really peaked
out at 5000 RPM, and you would see some
increases with a performance cam.
I had the stock cam reground by Engle Cams
in Santa Monica Ca. they can't change the duration
much, but the lift is increased, I wish I could find the
new spec that it is ground to, but I have moved 2 times
since and never recalled seeing the paperwork, so
without using a dial indicator and a degree wheel
I would be just guessing, but it seems to me the
lift was increased by about .125/inch made a big
difference in power, I don't think I could make 100
HP with just a cam, I think you will need high CR
pistons and a better cam, remember you want to
see 6000 RPM, so the cam needs to be more wild
than you think.
Also an airboat runs at a more or less constant RPM
as compaired to a road vehicle, so you can target
a specific RPM range, like 5500-6000 and have a cam
that really works well there.
The other thing is I don't know what your custom
intake looks like, did you build the runners to maximize
the RPM band you want ?
Shorter runners like the stock TBI intake are for
a 3000-4000 RPM range, which is where the Track/Kicks
spend most of their freeway speed life.
I have some tables and charts to help dial in tuned
length runners and camshaft profiles that will get
you close to where you want that engine to run.
My best guess is that you are going to get 85-90 HP
out of your setup, without a cam and higher CR you
are basicly running a stock 1.6 with a header
What is your reduction ratio to the prop ? 3:1 ???
what pitch ? is it too much for a 100 HP engine ?
How many blades 2 or 3 ?
So many variables with this application
Wild
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I agree with Wild that you should really look to doing some cam work as these motors respond well. Isky do a torquer cam for the 1300/1600 8v motor but there should be a number of alternatives then look at making/buying an adjustable cam gear to put the power where you want it in the rev range. I also think an increase in compression is required.
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Thanks Wild and CJ for your replies.
  Is the G16 that much more sensitive to the cam than the G13? The reason I ask is this is the 5th engine of built over the last number of years on this project.
1) Stock G13 8valve, dyno'd* to destruction as baseline
  - proven 68.5 hp |removethispart|@ 6000rpm as claimed by Suzuki in
   Canadian Metro (ok thye claimed 70hp)
2) G13 8 valve built same spec as this G16 but with (4)
  motorcycle carbs and modified stock distributor, stock
  G13 Metro camshaft
  - tested to destruction, 94hp |removethispart|@ 6400 rpm*
3) As above rebuilt and tested on airboat (still going
  after several years)
  - proves out at 85hp |removethispart|@ 6000rpm based on prop
   being used
4) G10 (early series) turbo (thought it would work out
  lighter, I was wrong by a bunch)
  - about 90hp |removethispart|@ 5800rpm based on known prop that
   was being run based on know prop that was been
   run. (but boy did it end up heavy)
5) This engine..
  Wild, you asked about the drive, it's 2.222:1 cog belt
  the prop is 3 blade set to the same spec as used on
  Rotax 912S (claimed as 100hp from Rotax)
  Based on the prop rpm I am getting I would est I am
  currently getting 85-90 hp |removethispart|@ 5000rpm, max it will
  turn. The combo should make a great engine for the
  rag top I'm building for my daughter.
  I've built alot of engines over the years (raced everything from 850cc FIATs to 360ci Chevy's in Sprint cars) including a bunch of various Japanese makes. Got turned on to the Suzuki's after taking them apart in the Auto recycling business (liked the way they were made).
  That's why I'm surprised that this one is apparently being so cam sensitive. The L-16 Datsuns and 3TC Toyotas always seemed to have more than enough cam at this level of mod.
  Is it your experience that the G16 is more cam sensitive than the G13 and other engines I've mentioned. Oh yes I'm not sure I made myself clear..the intake system is two 1 3/4 inch inlet Stromberg side draft carbs.  Quite a jump over the stock throttle body. The runners are about 3" long feeding into a balance tube then to the carbs (2), it's a compromise to fit the engine bay. (would have liked about 6" according to my math)
(*Dyno was a local Super Flo computerized and corected to sea level).
Thanks again for your thoughts, it's really appreciated.
I'm used to ether building nice stock motors or full tilt race engines. building this realitivly low rpm mid range engine is a new experience. This project has cost me a fortune but I gues it keeps me out of the bar.
Zag
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Well lets see, the 1.3 engine is a much shorter
stroke, so they tend to rev quite a bit more.
the 1.6 is a stroked 1.3, the piston is 1mm larger
bore, but 15mm longer stroke.
I put a 1.6 head on a 1.3 engine, didn't really do
much, the valves are a little larger, ohh I guess
about 2mm, but I don't think the lift is much different.
a 1.6 with a basic cam profile from a 1.3 would be a
good torque maker.
I added a turbo to a 1.6 with my special cam and
got 93 MPH in the 1/4 mile on 30" tires with 5.83
gears, with a vehicle + driver weight of 2700 Lbs this
equates to about 150 Crankshaft HP, and 125 to the street at about 8 PSI boost.
I think you could use a high lift cam, not the off the
shelf Calmini or Hawks cams, as these are designed
around the use of the engine in a 4 wheel drive and
off road appilcation. I would contact a reputable
camshaft grinder and have one ground to your specific
RPM and HP needs.
The Cam, Intake and exhaust is what makes a motor,
all the othe stuff like the knife edging and nitriding is
gravy over the heart of the engine, and I know a stock
cam is not going to give you the HP you want without
some sort of supercharging.
Your HP specs and my guesstimate were pretty close
so I think your cam is timed right, you could play with
a little retarding of the cam and report back any increases
or losses, this would be a great tuning guide for tweeking
the power output of these little engines, the Prop works
like a dyno, which none of us have really any access to,
at least without paying lots of $$ for test time.
Advance the cam 1, 2, 3 teeth, and then retard and
see what happens, if I recall correctly retarding the
cam will help the RPM band move up, see if you can
get your RPM and HP to climb, then try some other
cams if you want.
I have my special cam that is not going to be used
in the 16V engine I'm redoing, I would be interested
to see what it does in a dyno situation like you have
Wild
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Someone on here did retard the cam a tooth and reported a very noticable gain in performance. You might be able to find the thread doing a search. I don't think theres a lot of difference between the 1.6 cam and the 1.3 cam in terms of duration. I think thats why the 1.6 makes its peak torque much lower down so you aren't likely to get the same kind of rpm from the 1.6 without cam timing changes. I would love to see pics of the twin Stromberg set up.
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Thanks for all the resposes guys I really appreciate it.
I will post pictures of the carb set up as soon as I get the engine working right. I hate showing stuff that doesn't work to my expectation. Based on the fighting I had to do to get them to work right I feel one size down
(CD150's) would be better for the street.
As for my glitch...after doing more runs, advancing and retarding the ignition (dramatically) and the advice I've gotten here I am going to do a cam swap. The goal is still the same 100hp|removethispart|@6000, peak torque at 4500rpm or so. The combo I'm running now is what I'm going to put in my daughters rag top. (but with the smaller CD150's) I think it will be more than enough for a 16 year old. The way the long block is built I don't think she will ever be able to hurt it.
Any suggestions on camshafts to meet this goal would be great.
Thanks Zag
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Someone on here did retard the cam a tooth and reported a very noticable gain in performance. You might be able to find the thread doing a search. I don't think theres a lot of difference between the 1.6 cam and the 1.3 cam in terms of duration. I think thats why the 1.6 makes its peak torque much lower down so you aren't likely to get the same kind of rpm from the 1.6 without cam timing changes.  I would love to see pics of the twin Stromberg set up.
I retarted my cam/crank one tooth and noticed my power band moved a bit and increased. Now it starts better, idles better and Pulls like crazy from about 4500 to 5500. I put it back to stock and tried to tune it to get the same power but just couldn't, So I took it back a tooth again.
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Thanks for the response Humzuki.
I thought about just playing with retarding the belt, but I'm thinking that to get to the 6000rpm target it won't be enough.
Any thoughts out there. I feel I'm close to my power but need the additional rpm.
Zag
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For your application I assume that you generally run at a fairly constant rpm. You may find that a tuned length 4 to 1 header would suit your needs better much like your tuned length intake manifold. The tri-y is great for our application offroading but may not be what you need especially as you are searching for power at the top end of the rev range.
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Thanks for the input CJ
  You're right that the rpm remains fairly constant...
4500-6000 range. At the same time I chose the tri y as a way of maintaining the torque at the lower end of the range. With a prop you want to be able to get "on the step" per say right fast, but have the torque maintained a little lower so you can maintain a fast cruise by using a coarser prop pitch...it's a compromise. For the rag top (2wd, lowered) I'm building for my daughter, it means really good throttle response and mid range torque.
  "Wild" was right on the money when he said a prop make a great dyno. It lets me check loaded throttle response and get good estimates on peak power by comparing to know combinations.
  This combination has given me almost everything I want (except peak power where I want it) and I think it will be a good driving combination. Right now I'm researching camshafts and have found a 226/395 duration cam with about .050" more lift than stock that is looking like it will fill the bill, but I'm real tempted to try Calmini's cam  with 288/288 duration. Has anyone out there tried it and what kind of rpm were they able to get?
  I'm thinking with the extra breathing from the twin Strombergs it might get me the 6000rpm and maintain high torque at the 4500-5000rpm range that will let me run a higher pitch setting for cruising. Hawk has a 272 cam they recommend but I don't have the exact specs yet (tommorows project).
  Any other input out there?
  The other thing I noticed and would like some opinions, I was going through "Readers Rides" and noticed fantastic  efforts in suspension technology and design, but not too many get involved in building more power. I'm an old road racer, rallyist, drag racer and thought that unusual, or am I just behind the times?
Zag
Againthanks to everyone for their input.
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On my Camshaft usage chart I have
listed 260 duration |removethispart|@ .050 lift is good
for 4000-7500 RPM with a rough idle
and 250 duration |removethispart|@ .050 lift is good
for 3500-7000 RPM with a rough idle
This might give you a starting point to
choose a cam for your project
Wild
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I'll think you'll find around here that making the rigs more capable offroad is a priority ie. lockers, suspension etc. The Suzuki's benefit from light weight and gearing chages to the diffs and or transfer cases are used to bring back performance. Apart from the obvious header/exhaust changes and free flowing filters not to much else is done in the name of reliability. Cams do help the 8v engines though. I'm currently changing my cam in my 16v and have also fitted an adjustable cam gear. The 16v head flows pretty well. A few such as Wild have played with turbos or engine swaps ie. 8v to 16v or even the 2.5 or 2.7 V6. The motor can be overbored to 78mm and I've recently seen a 79mm but you do need to resleeve and machine the rods to take the larger piston pin for the new pistons.
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Thanks CJ and Wild for your replies..
I appreciate your views on the camshaft selection, I'm definitely getting an education on how the Suzuki SOHC responds to cams. I think I'm going to try the split duration cam, seems to be the best compromise to hit the targets.
I also appreciate the input on engine mods. I've always been a 2WD/RWD kinda guy and it's a real treat to see a different side of things. I feel sorry for my wife, shes got a 94 SideKick 4dr 16v 4 by 4, and I'm starting to think we need to check this stuff out. I was going to check into lowering it (we only use the 4by4 for the deep snow we get here) but maybe it's time to try something different. She won't let me go beyond the Cold air induction and 2 1/4 exhaust I've already installed...but maybe some agressive tires and off roading are in the future.
Thanks again
Zag
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I vote for a lift
;D
(http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/suzuki-rock.jpg)
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The Sidekick/Tracker cam is designed for low down performance for offroad use. There was an 8V Sport model sold in the UK that had a higher state of tune (95bhp) and an 8V carb Swift that had a 115bhp engine. I would imagine the cams from either of those models would be better for top end power.
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Thanks again for the replies:
Did another series of runs last night (ok I like playing with it) and went through my old cam books. I also went back over the flow bench notes from back in 95-96 and came into the shop and looked over a bare head.
Came to the conclusion that the 226/395 is probly the right cam for both applications I'm messing with. So I've starting pulling the engine again. I'll report back with the results so the next guy has a bench mark to work with.
Really appreciate the input from everyone this is a great group. When I've got it finished I'll post the final specs, results and pictures (if I ever figure out how to work the digital camera).
But on a final note:
I had an evil thought for an off roader...
- G13A long block fully prepped (balanced, ported
polished, etc)
- G10 (early) turbo pistons
- Hawk or Calmini torquer cam
- lightened flywheel
- Custom made TPI manifold
- SDS electronic fuel injection
- My dual crank fire ignition
- Turbo from a Isuzu 1.5l I-Mark
- Dodge Colt inter cooler
- about 12psi boost
-Wonder how it would work off road?
-In a lowered 4wd 2dr 89-90 Sidekick/Tracker for
rallying?
I think I may feel the next project in the works...
Zag
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I am curious why you have never built a 16 valve motor? Too much wiring and plumbing for the mpi? They seem to be the hot ticket for samurai's around here.
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Good question Elburrobigzook...
When I started with the original project the 1.6 16 valve wasn't out and the 1.6 8 valve was really hard to get and very expensive, so I started with the 1.3 8 valves from the Metro's. The 1.3 16valve was a bunch heavier (about 30lbs if I remember) and made peak power way too high to make the prop effective with out extreme reductions and associated power loss.
The goals were a little lower back then too 80-85hp |removethispart|@ 6000rpm / 90-95 ft lb torque |removethispart|@ 4500rpm. I felt that by starting with the 1300 most of the development would transfer to the 1600 when they became available, and for the most part (headers, ignition and intake) I seem to have been right.
When the 16/16v came out I took a hard look at it, good engine but...
- about 20lbs heavier
- All the injection and computer wiring would make install
tough and heavier
- Wasn't alot of great info around on performance data.
So I stayed the course.
It's been quite a hobby so far about 12 years) and began with the idea of putting it in an aircraft a freind and I were building (I'm also a pilot). I looked at what another company was recommending for aircraft applications and really did not like what I saw so I went my own way.
The 1300 never went in the airplane, but we built a Gen 2 turbo 3 cylinder that did...mistake, it was waaaay heavier than the 1.3 or 1.6 by the time all systems were installed. It did perform great, but was damaged in an soft field landing due to a nose gear failure. The install was also extremely complex with all the computer related wiring.
The airplane is almost rebuilt now so I am looking at the airboat engine with an eye to maybe going that way this time. Thats one of the reasons that the engine is built with so many internal strenghting mods. But unless it is absolutely bullet proof it won't happen.
Interesting stuff that's come out of the project
- Dual crank fire ignition, (2) completely independent
direct fire ignition systems on one engine. Works great.
- Dual Carb system, compact and works really well now
that it's sorted.
- redrive and mount system.
The 16/16v is on my radar for down the road but it really needs TPI to work well. The stock system is too complex and SDS has a great system but I think it's expensive. Plus I've got to finish:
- The airboat engine, and have some fun
- The rag top for my daughter (she's 14 I've only got 2
years)
- I've just started my own business and that as you can
guess is a time killer.
- We also just had the pleasure of a new born son
So many projects...so little time
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post some pics of the airplane.
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Sure I think i've still got pictures of the airplane with the 1.0 turbo in it and I've got some pictures of the 1.6 being built...I'll try to do that tonight after we finish working on the engine.
Zag
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sweet
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Zaggy, you mentioned maybe doing a build with a lightened flywheel on the 1.3. It reminded me of something I was told once. You can use the 1.3 flywheel on the 1.6 as it is a lighter wheel but still fine on the 1.6 even for offroad work. Would help get some throttle response. Depending on your needs and what accessories you are running you could also look at underdrive pulleys. Adam on this site does nice work http://www.occracing.com/pricing.htm and he might be able to give you some pointers too.
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Thanks for the tip CJ
I run a very custom flywheel that is heavily lightened and machined to accept a belt drive. Then add a 15lb propellor at a 2.222:1 ratio to mess up all that hard work. I machined a set of under drive pulleys that reduces the speed at the alternator and water pump to keep tham from over speeding, but now I know someone out there is doing it next time I'll just buy them.
The engine comes off tonight and I've ordered a cam, I'll post back here the results. Meantime I've promiised some pictures so I will post them here as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks guys
Zag
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How are you turnin a prop 6000 rpm??? what psru are you using.
Thanks
Wayne
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The prop doesn't turn 6000rpm. I use a psru that I designed, it uses a gates polychain belt, 11.25 offset and a 2.222:1 ratio.
So in the end the engine turns 6000 rpm but the prop only turns 2700rpm.
The hardest part of building the psru was working out the math and the forces on the upper spindle are wild. When you work out the centrifical force from the rpm, add a maximum 4g bump/turning load factor, the spinning prop creates 2894 pound of torque loading (approx I'm going from memory), now ad a minimum 50% safety factor. It's mean.
You need to keep the prop speed to a max of .78 mach tip speed to maintian efficency so thats why the psru.
Remember all that high school math we thought we ould never use...I found a use for it.
Thanks Zag
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You might give Hawk or Trail tough a call on the 16 valve wiring when you get ready to take that step. They make custom harnesses to go into the samurai. I cant see it being alot more difficult to make a universal harness. I have driven a sami with the 16 valve that had a 1.3l flywheel. Man o man that thing revved right now! I think there rev limiter is t 6,500 rpm though. If you use the facotry computer that is. I know I have had a couple 1.3's up to 8,000 before. Though not for more than a couple seconds.
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Hey Zag, you ought to check out
http://www.msefi.com
a home built EFI system that will cost
you about $200 to put together, a whole
bunch less money than a SDS, and now
the MSII daughter card is out for ignition
control and boost retard, Ohh did I mention
it's laptop programable and is all open source
code, and the software is all free, including
the data logging program
Wild
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Hey thanks to "Wild" and Elburro
The tips on the fuel injection is great stuff wish I had it a year ago. Injection is really the answer for alot of what we get into, especially when you involve turbo or super charging like "Wild" has. My hat is really off to "Wild" for putting together an injected turbo combo that works off road, it had to be a challenge, I'd love to know more about it.
By the same token I still like my carbs for simplicity adn tunabiltiy that I really understand. Got thhe engine off tonight and pulled the cam. "Wild" was right i had it bang on the timing marks. Now it's waiting till I get the split duration cam. I really think it will solve the problem I've got.
Sorry I didn't get the pics on I will try for tommorow night.
Thanks to all.
Zag
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I have a web page setup that goes thru
the basic buildup, the pitfalls and sucess
http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/zookmods
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The prop doesn't turn 6000rpm. I use a psru that I designed, it uses a gates polychain belt, 11.25 offset and a 2.222:1 ratio.
  So in the end the engine turns 6000 rpm but the prop only turns 2700rpm.
  The hardest part of building the psru was working out the math and the forces on the upper spindle are wild. When you work out the centrifical force from the rpm, add a maximum 4g bump/turning load factor, the spinning prop creates 2894 pound of torque loading (approx I'm going from memory), now ad a minimum 50% safety factor. It's mean.
  You need to keep the prop speed to a max of .78 mach tip speed to maintian efficency so thats why the psru.
  Remember all that high school math we thought we ould never use...I found a use for it.
Thanks Zag
Yeah been there done that sounds like the Harley drive belt conversion. It works well but the belt can change with environmental changes , add it to your preflight ;D. What airframe are you or did you fly it on?. and we are getting great performance from smaller props turnin around 3k direct drive on our corvair convesions. I am building a Kr2 with my dad, his second.
Thanks
Wayne
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Thanks for all the replies guys...
The engine is now off waiting for the new camshaft.
I'm sorry I haven't got the pictures up but I can't figure out how to paste them in. (I'm not the most computer literate) But will keep trying till I get it.
Zukizzy...thanks for the comment on the belt drive. We don't run into the tempature problem with the belt. The belt is different stuff than the Harley style so it's doesn't change, but what does shange with running temp is the pulley diameter. As the Aluminum pulleys get warm they expand a few thou...wiped out an upper shaft figuring that one out. We have compensated and added a tensioner system to keep everything right. KR2 is a neat airplane (single place if I'm in it) flown in a couple. You're probly familar with William Wynne |removethispart|@ flycorvair.com. I can honestly say he seems to be one of the very few good sources of info on auto conversions for aircraft.
"Wild" I really enjoyed your web page, neat sytem you built, I lot of work and thought in that one. The info on the Mega Squirt is great, I'm too far down the road on this one but I can see it would be good for the 16v. Wish I had known earlier.
Gotta go, but I will keep working to get the pic's up
Zag
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Thanks for all the replies guys...
    Zukizzy...thanks for the comment on the belt drive. We don't run into the tempature problem with the belt. The belt is different stuff than the Harley style so it's doesn't change, but what does shange with running temp is the pulley diameter. As the Aluminum pulleys get warm they expand a few thou...wiped out an upper shaft figuring that one out. We have compensated and added a tensioner system to keep everything right. KR2 is a neat airplane (single place if I'm in it) flown in a couple. You're probly familar with William Wynne |removethispart|@ flycorvair.com. I can honestly say he seems to be one of the very few good sources of info on auto conversions for aircraft.
 ÂÂ
Gotta go, but I will keep working to get the pic's up
Zag
Zaggy yes I know william and have been to a few corvair Colleges he calls em. everyone could learn a few things about reliability from him as well as doning more with less. that is why I choose a zuk to wheel instead of a Heep. I like going places they say I can't, and flying 180 mph behind a VW.
thansk
Wayne
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See results of cam change under "Pics of Zaggys engine"
Zag