ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: explosivo on July 13, 2004, 02:01:23 PM
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So I'm changing my brake pads tonight, and according to the service manual, I'm supposed to compress the piston with a C-clamp. Problem is, the piston won't fucking budge, and I can't get the caliper over the new pads and disc. >:(
WTF... is there something I need to do to release some pressure somewhere? Am I doing something wrong?
Hep, hep :(
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caliper is froze. :( you eather have to try and get it moving by trying to get some grease or PP oil under that rubber boot and pressing the piston back in or get some new calipers. :(
stu
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Did you take the cap off the master cylinder?
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Did you pull the top off of the MC resevoir?
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Beat ya to it Jerry ;D
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Did you take the cap off the master cylinder?
Beat me by TWO full minutes! I'm getting slow in my old age :)
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Beat ya to it Jerry ;D
OK, that's twice, but only ONE minute this time. I'm typing as fast as I can so maybe I'll get you this time ;D
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You got me (http://www.anchoredbygrace.com/smileys/mgcoonskincap.gif)
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i just removed the whole caliper and used a hammer handle to push the cyl in while pushing it up aginst something. mine were just stiff.
Did you take the cap off the master cylinder?
wow does having the cap on really matter?
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Yes it does (http://www.anchoredbygrace.com/smileys/mgyes.gif)
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Why not just open the bleeder screw then compress?
Going to bleed them after anyhow right?
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Chances are if its a 100 car, You might want to think about doing calipers anyway.....probably pretty rusty.
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I finally got them to move... I had to take them off and put em in the bench vice, though, so now I've probably opened up an entirely new can of worms. :(
How do you bleed the caliper? Do you bleed it out of the bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper, or just use the normal bleeder nipple?
And yes, I had the cap off ;)
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OK guys, the easy way for next time.
Get the wheel off and take your big ass
slotted screw driver, and stick it in between
the rotor and the pad, now pry the piston
back into the caliper, forget the cap, it's
vented anyway, now you can change the
pads with no problems.
Wild
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I've always taken the cap off the Master Cylinder and used a big "C" Clamp to compress the piston but Wild's screwdriver trick works great too. Just be careful and not scratch the rotor.
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Sometimes there is more brake fluid than the resivour
can hold, so the cap might be a problem in that case.
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I finally got them to move...
If you didn't open the system (replace a hydraulic part) you won't have to bleed your brakes.
You are going to want to rebuild those calipers or you'll probably be doing this whole job (again) in about 8K miles. If they are that stiff, they are gonna cause your pads to rub on the rotors... and probably overheat/warp them.
You can buy rebuild kits... mostly just the rubber O ring & dust cover. Put a block of wood inside the caliper & step on the brake. That'll pop both pistons out part way so you can work them out. (Put a bucket underneath to catch the fluid.)
Before you put them back together, lightly shine the calipers w/ some ruge paper or crocous cloth. Lightly "oil" the rubber ring w/ your finger dipped in brake fluid... and the piston should push back in easily.
(GM had thousands of bad brakes in the early 80's due to a slight roughness of the pistons. This fixed the prob every time.)
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Yeah ive used that trick alot faster then trying to use a big ass c clamp to compress them lol
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Well, the brake light has finally turned off... the pads don't seem to be rubbing. However, after I got it to move just a bit in the vice, it seemed to move a lot free-er than before.