ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: creepy crawler on April 06, 2010, 09:31:41 AM
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I have a brake dragging on my 88.5 tintop. I pulled the wheel and compressed the piston with channel locks and the caliper is floating free one the pins. It's only the drivers side thats dragging. So i'm hoping it's not the proportioning valve. I would think if it's the valve both front brakes would be dragging. Am i right? I'm thinking the inside of the rubber flex line has broken loose. And won't let the pressure release off the caliper piston. What do you guys think?
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disassemble the caliper, clean it properly, and rebuild it. compressing it only makes things worse by pushing any debris into the seals, possibly damaging them.
get some brake parts cleaner, and a lot of free time to thoroughly clean the system. its not a bad idea to drop some coin on new braided brake hoses either. they'll improve your feel substantially.
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Proportioning valve is on the rear brakes, I would check and rebuild
the caliper mounts, might be a sticky bolt or piston in the caliper
Wild
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I had the same problem on one of my sidekicks once. Ended up, the rubber oring inside the caliper, that is supposed to slightly pull the piston back into the caliper bore when you aren't pushing on the brake pedal, had worn enough that it wasn't doing its job. I disassembled the caliper, cleaned everything up, put a new oring and dust boot on and it worked perfectly after that. Of course, I had to bleed the brakes too, after I had everything back together.
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I'll rebuild the calipers. When i pushed the Piston in i thought it felt a little snug. I did lift the seal and squrit some PB Blaster in there before i got on it with the channel locks.. That was back when the snow was 2 feet deep and 20 degrees with wind! So it worked for a little while. I've owned it for 10 years and have put pads,shoes,rear cylinders, tune ups,filters and one u-joint in it in that time. Thats it! So i can't whine at all. It's street driven. Except for the mile long washed out(BAD) lane up to the house. Thanks guys
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I have had this happen before, it's the flexible brake line that's atached to the frame and caliper, it gets rotten and swells up inside restricting the flow back to the master cylinder. Replace it, and your problem will probably go away.
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P.S. Never let the caliper hang by the brake line when changing pads, it will damage the line. Support the caliper with a piece of wire.
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I have had this happen before, it's the flexible brake line that's atached to the frame and caliper, it gets rotten and swells up inside restricting the flow back to the master cylinder. Replace it, and your problem will probably go away.
I removed the driver side caliper off the hub. Alen pins were super tight and it took awhile to get them out! Never sieze this time for sure It still seems like a line problem to me. The caliper piston is moving free with little rust and no leaks. I'm gonna have the discs turned and put new pads on both fronts while i'm at it. And repack the front bearings.
I have two questions about packing the front bearings. What size are the spindle nuts? I got the hub nuts off with channel locks. But whoever worked on this car before did not have the lock nut anywhere near tight enough.
Second Question is. Should the inner grease seal on the front hub be installed with the spring side of the seal faceing the backing plate? Thats the way the one in it is installed. And i've never seen one put in that way. The spring side goes next to the grease is all i've ever seen. The Haynes manual only says " To note how the seal was installed". Well i did and it seems wrong to me. Thanks
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The spindle nuts should be 50mm/2".
The inner seal on the wheel hub should have the "open" side (the side you can see the spring on) facing the wheel bearing. The lip on the outside face of the seal is supposed to ride against the backing plate to seal out dirt, water, etc. Be sure to put some wheel bearing grease on the part of the backing plate that the outer lip of the seal rides against.
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The spindle nuts should be 50mm/2".
The inner seal on the wheel hub should have the "open" side (the side you can see the spring on) facing the wheel bearing. The lip on the outside face of the seal is supposed to ride against the backing plate to seal out dirt, water, etc. Be sure to put some wheel bearing grease on the part of the backing plate that the outer lip of the seal rides against.
I thought that seal was in wrong. Had it been right. It would have been the first time that i ever seen it. And i've been playin in the grease for a long time! And Haynes said nothing about greasing the backing plate for the seal too ride against. Good tip. I will do that. And the outer wheel bearing rollers were a cross between the colors blue and purple. That bearing got real hot! Thanks