ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Mike71 on July 10, 2004, 12:33:58 PM
-
ok after a long debate over turbos..and bimmers mercs and lades i have decided today to not buy a new car..but to go solid instead ;D idaholwb is the one to blame for that =)...going full kicker 3...duel t cases locked front and rear =) bout 6" sus lift with a 3" bl =) will run 35"s on the street and 33"s for the trail =)
idaholwb will have to chime in on any specifics since we didnt really get into huge detail..we are going to start with the sammy case and front housing in 2 weeks =)
yay yay yay...also on a side note im finall going to get a damn vent for my moms car!!!! lol
ldaho..you da man =)
-
We need plenty of pictures! ;)
-
another SAS, man Idaholwb must be making some good paper off their SAS swaps. ;D i still wana go SAS but i think i might run into the same probs i'm having right now. i'll sty IFS for the time being.
stu
-
We need plenty of pictures! ;)
Isn't that a requirement for a project this big? ;) :)
Hope everything works out for ya on your project, Mike ;D
-
Paper's not in the bank yet, still stuck in the wind.
;D
The more the merrier(I am)! 8)
-
Be sure to get extra width and strength in the axles.
The stock width and strength just isn't enough.
If I had it to do all over again I'da gone with the toyota t-case kicker, and fullsize landcruiser axles.
You'll thank me.
~Nater
-
In the coil front suspension theory, the rubbing problem you have, won't be a problem. As far as strength goes, as far as I know, you have only broken a rear stock axle shaft, right?
And doesn't Toy stuff still break birfs with 4 cyls. anyway? And aren't the Toy axles like very expensive to regear??
Just a thought.
-
well im pretty sure idaho will be taking plenty of pics of his 4door so i can learn =) and ill send him a disposable or 2 so he can take pics of the axel build up =)....and ofcourse when its all paid for and finally shipped to me i will take pics of it going in
it looks like itl take 3-4 months starting in 2 weeks =) thats everything..gears tcases everything but tires lol
the way we were talking i will run 35"s on the street and 33"s to wheel
hmmm what else...cant think of anything =) and suggestions post away
oh yah..i think that idaho was talking about maybe making a sas kit =) (hehe now ur in for it idaho lol)
-
i know this may be dumb..but when i go SFA do i still need locking hubs?? im kinda confused on that
-
i have heard about longfeilds but never took the time to reserch them. what are they and where could someone buy some(for a yota, not tracker).
stu
-
In the coil front suspension theory, the rubbing problem you have, won't be a problem. As far as strength goes, as far as I know, you have only broken a rear stock axle shaft, right?
And doesn't Toy stuff still break birfs with 4 cyls. anyway? And aren't the Toy axles like very expensive to regear??
Just a thought.
And you speak with what experience ?
-
Kimball,
This isn't a flamer, its just that I think that everything you just said is totally wrong.
In the coil front suspension theory, the rubbing problem you have, won't be a problem.
Um yes it will.
I still rub on the frame front, AND back. So no matter what coils I choose, I'll still rub with the stock sidekick width. This means that I need a couple inches wider. Wheel spacers or more backspaced rims, both of which are harder on bearings.
As far as strength goes, as far as I know, you have only broken a rear stock axle shaft, right?
Broken plenty of these babies, even at idle. (no kidding here people). No matter what Sidekick axles I choose (custom aftermarket, etc) breakage with my puny little motor is inevetiable. So if I went bigger to start off with and Then custom on top of it. I might not have as many problems.
And doesn't Toy stuff still break birfs with 4 cyls. anyway? And aren't the Toy axles like very expensive to regear??
Well when I've already paid for totally cutom stuff and it can't handle the mustard. I might have started with bigger custom stuff to begin with. With a 180:1 craw ratio, I don't think that anything Suzuki sized is going to handle it.
So fullsize landcruiser stuff might be a better solution (only thing I know of with the proper offset diffs, which is bigger then what I've got)
Just a thought.
And how much money did YOU spend for this 'thought"? Seems to me that your truck with the standard solution has NEVER been driven. The only prototype that's been generated from 'IDAHO' and actually trailed, (lightly mind you) has been plagued with problems.
Just a thought and an opinion from a guy who's really been there and done it.
Again,
If I had it to do all over again I'da gone with the toyota t-case kicker, and fullsize landcruiser axles.
That way, I'd have all of my width and strength issues already taken care of without going totally custom. THEN if I needed something stronger I could find other solutions.
But as it is right now, what I've got is just about as good as I can get, no more upgrade path here. Just more broken parts.
You'll thank me.
~Nate
-
gesh this topic heated up quite quickly..
the axels that will be used have a life time garentee..so they should be prety strong
couldnt u fix the rubbing by going with smaller tires??
-
the way we were talking i will run 35"s on the street and 33"s to wheel
Why not 35's for trail(more ground clearance) and 33" for street(quicker acceleration than 35")??????
Fredo
-
i dont really want a HUGE lift..so clearing 35s would be a little harder
-
gesh this topic heated up quite quickly..
the axels that will be used have a life time garentee..so they should be prety strong
couldnt u fix the rubbing by going with smaller tires??
I don't know if I'd say 'heated'. I'm just trying to make sure that that people know what they might be getting into with this setup.
The dream of "lifetime axles" That'll be the day...
Does anybody reading this have any experience with "lifetime axles"?
All I can say is, good luck tracking down the shop owner after they are out of business in say 5 years to warrantee those axles.
The ONLY truely "LIFETIME" anything that I know of might be the Craftsman brand. (they've been around for a few generations now and still warantee their tools) Can you say that about the company you are buying your axles from?
Besides. I think in the long run, I'd rather NOT have to warantee my parts.
The though of having to carry those types of spare parts in the field knowing that they'll break just to get them warranteed or face the alternative of being stranded in the middle of no-where, leaves me wanting parts that just don't break, ever.
*boggle* Smaller tires? *boggle*
Gasp at the thought.
I need to go 36s, just to get the speedo close to being right with my existing setup. (or ~4.62's with 33s)
I think that after all of the work I had to put into going SAS in the first place. Especially since almost everything was built from scratch, I should have gotten it right the first time, rather then having to re-do it later because of the lamer idea of "Well this is good for now, lets go with it."
Good luck,
~Nate
-
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/[/url]
hummm, makes me think about SAS again. i hate you guys. ;D
-
what year landcruser axles would be best?
stu
-
Funny, I didn't think that a company that has been in business for better than 60 years that currently produces the Newfield joints for Toyotas that are "Lifetime guarantee", is considered a fly by night company. I would think that they would be called a stable bet for future business. Wouldn't you think, Nate?
The joints are only going to be sold by www.roadlessgear.com and me. Retail is $580 plus shipping.
I thought you guys only rubbed on the coil buckets on the rear and the shock mounts? Wasn't aware that you rubbed on the frame too.
And even with all the breakage of rear shafts you've had, why do you still run stock shafts in the rear and continue to complain about the "weak" Suzuki shafts? Why not go with a good quality chro-moly shaft and get it over with? The only thing that was done with your rear end vs. stock was a locker and some housing beefing, right? Stock brakes and shafts, right?
Even the Toy stuff breaks. The low Toy axle gears, 5.29s and lower, are not very strong, just ask anyone on the Toyota forums. Even with the 4 cyl. engines they break. Toyota Land Cruiser axles are very expensive to do anything to, lock, shaft upgrade, regear, etc. And if you do end up redoing things with the toy stuff, you don't need Toy cruiser axles if you do the kicker2, the Toy case you use is a truck case, with a centered rear output. The only Toy truck rear that is as wide as a kick is 88 up IFS rear end. It is 3" wider than the earlier Toy truck rear axles. The Toy birfs are just as weak as the sammy birfs when they are turned, but they cost a lot more to replace and are harder to change out.
True, since my truck was put together, it hasn't wheeled as hard as I used to, but I also got married since then and haven't had a lot of time to do that at all. I have wheeled it reasonably and been very happy with the results after different mods.
And why would you have to go with 36s to make your speedo correct? I have the same setup in my lwb with 35s and the speedo is spot on.
Who told you the Toy stuff never breaks? Read it over thoroughly on other forums, you'll find the Toy stuff still breaks with that kind of torque.
-
And it doesn't matter what axle you have, if you have insane gearing, bigger tires, and a locker, you are going to break stock axle shafts, that is just how it works. No OEM parts supplier uses chro-moly in their factory axle shafts.
By the way, OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer.
-
Thank you for making my point. Which is why I said in the first place, Go wider and stronger and you'll thank me.
But you did bring up another subject, I do need higher gears then 5.12s, not lower. I'm already way over revving. So what a better time to do it then when I get wider and stronger axles. Not expensive custom, stuff. Just stronger and better.
But I do need to just to ask another question of which I already know the answer. When was the last time you drove 75 down the freeway in your truck?
When it was stock? Before you went 33s ? Certainly not since you put in your kicker 3. I say this because it's been in pieces ever since. So the "solution" can't be working out that well for you either. You don't drive it at all since its all over your front yard.
Kimball, I'm just saying that if I had to do it all over again. I would NOT have chosen the solution I did. And I have some very specific reasons of which you can not argue with.
If anybody would like to ask me why, or hasn't already figured it out already, and want to ask. Please feel free to do so.
Thanks,
~Nate
-
ok so i am going full floater in the rear =)
-
ok ok ok ok ok =)....soooooooooooooooooooooo as long as everything pans out my kick will go under the knife to breathe life into a LWB sami!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! =)
again idaho will have to breif the world on the specifics....but itl but just like the kick..2"wider with the kick 1.6(turbod soon)
-
:)
*smoke*
&
*mirrors*
;D
I told you so.
~Nater
8)
-
smoke and mirrors what??
the only reason it is going to be any wider is because it will rub on the springs in the sami...would have been fine in the zuki
-
Mike,
I would say if your going to undergo a huge project, the bigger the better. Use whatever the meanest lift, drivetrain and gears your time and budget could afford. If you can do it, get nate's Landcruiser setup if you can. Go big man. If you like Idaho's setup better, it's your rig man. Good luck and make it hurt!!
-
well it will be big..and it will be strong..there are differing oppinons of strong i know..but a full floater has chromoly axel shafts in it...so really itl be just like the front in that the hub will blow before anything else (atleased from what i understand)
it will be big and it will be beefy..it will not be sky high though since i want to keep the off camber pucker to a minimum lol like i stated before it will most likely run 33"s on the trail and 35"-37"s on the street (bigger is better right idaho? =))
it will have chomoly front axel (shafts??) with front and rear lockers..the hubs will be those warn hubs that have the fuses in them
there will be a full kicker 3 upgrade done to the t-case so i will have a nice crawl ratio
hmm what else what else...looks like itl run a full cage from front to back an ingenious seat/storage/sub box interchanble deal that idaho has come up with..down the road itl run on board air and on board water blatter as well as a nice winch =)
the driveshafts will be specially made someplace in AZ (forgot the name offhand idaho??)
oh also...i am still wanting to run a turbo setup on it..that is 8-9months away now though
i have told idaho that if it comes to saving money and ditching strength i will gladly fork over the extra doe to do it right the first time =)
that is all i can think of here...anyone having any commments or questions post away (please keep them civilized and no bad mouthing please) that is the plan =)
-
I'd like to hear more about this seat/storage deal....Idaho??
-
picture this..u have 2 racing type high back seats..same as in NC-Zukes orenge sami
each seat has its own square frame that it sits on...there are 8 bolts coming out of the floor of the truck...on each seat frame there are 4 bushing that correspond to the bolts..u get that right? that makes each seat easy to take out and put in..that way u can have 2 seats or 1 seat and a cooler (cooler is bolted in with the same bolt patter) or no seat and a large tool box..whatever u wanted just aslong as the bolt patters lined up
i belive the bushing (if soft enough) would help alliviate tool rattle or whatever u had in the large tool box...also it will make it easy to run seatless if u wanted to
could also be implimented in a SWB sami or kick =)
-
Hmm, an interesting concept.  Almost makes me rethink my swing out-Chevy Avalanche-like rear saddle box idea ???
-
Where are you getting, or did you get, the LWB Samurai?
:)
-
well nothing is solid yet..but the sami will be from canada =) but legaly itl be a 90 SWB sami =-)
-
so what are you doing with the tracker?
stu
-
dont know yet...wont be much left after i gut it..gunna miss the little thing to...it is my first car :'(
-
I'd like to hear more about this seat/storage deal....Idaho??
Make a rear cage in your truck with mounting tabs so that you can have individual substructures with separate seats or racks or speaker boxes? The mounts would make it so you would have a totally modular system that everything would be solid and stable. You could use either rear seat or both, or one speker box and a seat, or two racks? Whatever you wanted. The Bracket mounts would be essentially control arm mounts with the crossmember setup having polyurathane bushings to help isolate the ride of the seats. You could use a quick release pin style.
-
:)
*smoke*
&
*mirrors*
;D
I told you so.
~Nater
8)
What are you talking about, Nate?