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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Zuki-Girl on April 11, 2010, 03:13:09 PM
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Ok have a strange problem with my friends 98 Tracker. It's a 1.6 16 valve,it will start and idle with no problem. Go to put it in drive it acts like it wants to die. You can't rev it at idle either. Checked timing and it's on the button. New plugs,wires,cap and rotor. Origional problem was no power while driving,changed the above and now it won't move under power. Any ideas?
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Have you pulled the tube from the TB to the airbox and made sure it does not have any cracks in it?
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tps in adjustmet? clogged fuel filter? any other recent service done?
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had the tube off wasn't actually looking for any cracks,but I'll check in the morning. not sure how long it's been since filter was changed,I'll try that tomorrow also.
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Slipped timing belt? that would really throw a curve to it.
How many miles on it?
Wild
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Not sure on the mileage as it's a Jasper engine that was in it when she bought it. It did have one code showing multiple engine missfires (Acton OBD II reader). So I'll be checking the timing belt today as well as changeing the fuel filter.
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Since this problem showed up after you changed some parts, I would bet it is either an installation or new part issue.
Make sure the spark plug wires are connected correctly (on the right plugs) and that they are pushed onto the plugs and cap good. When you push them on the plugs, they will make a "snap" sound when they seat.
It is possible to put some rotors on in any of the 3 positions....but if it is installed in either of the 2 wrong positions, I don't believe you can get the engine to even run, without turning the distributor to adjust the "timing".
You did gap the spark plugs, before you installed them, right? There is no such thing as "pre gapped" spark plugs. What kind of plugs did you install? NGKs or Nippon Densos are the ones that you should use (the spark plug number should be on the label on the underside of the hood).
A fuel filter change won't hurt.
It could also be that you got a bad part. I have never had one...but I have heard a few people that have had bad parts right out of the box.
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It had a running poorly problem before changeing anything. I'm running Autolite plugs in it,just like my 95 sidekick and 88 Sammi.
They are gapped at .040 per Autolite's instructions. Fuel Filter looks to be origional,pulling it now.
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It had a running poorly problem before changeing anything. I'm running Autolite plugs in it,just like my 95 sidekick and 88 Sammi.
They are gapped at .040 per Autolite's instructions. Fuel Filter looks to be origional,pulling it now.
Yes, I know it was running poorly before you changed anything, but at least it was running/driving. Now it won't move under its own power....so now it is running even worse, right? That is why I am thinking it has something to do with the new parts or the new parts install.
.040 doesn't sound right for the gap. Look at the sticker on the underside of the hood, it should tell you what the gap should be.
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Ya, that was my thought, should be closer to .028-.030 gap.
This could be the cause of the random misfires
The plugs called for are NGK BKR-6E, at least in my older book
The only plugs I have used that did come pre gapped are Bosch, not
that the gap is correct for the application but are all the same plug to
plug
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Ya, that was my thought, should be closer to .028-.030 gap.
This could be the cause of the random misfires
Yep, me too.
I have had old plugs cause misfires (from the gap opening up too much). I bought a trackick once and it would sometime miss. I pulled the plugs and they were worn enough that the gap was close to .050 :o I regapped the plugs and it ran great after that.
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ok changed out fuel filter,re gapped plugs to .029,checked wires for proper posts. It starts and idles beautiful,will move Tracker at"idle" speed only. As soon as you go to step on skinny pedal it wants to die.
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Pulled timing cover and belt is fine and on the mark both top and bottom. Starts better than ever and idles beautiful,just no power at skinny pedal.
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Sounds like a fuel starvation issue, checked the fuel pump pressure?
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Sounds like a fuel starvation issue, checked the fuel pump pressure?
Sure sounds like a possibility. I have ran across a weak fuel pump before....it idles all day long, but give it any gas and it coughs, spits, sputters and won't move under its own power.
But what I find odd is, they said it at least ran and drove (albeit crappy) before they put on new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor....and they say it won't even move under its own power now....so that makes me think either installation issue with one of the new parts, or a bad part.
zuki-girl....have you checked for error codes, since you swapped the new parts on?
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Yes and everything comes up normal. Could there be a possibility of a partialy clogged converter?
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No, the cat wouldn't cause the off idle cough and stall.
I think you need to test the fuel pressure, it should be
43 PSI, most injection systems run lower at about 36, even
if it were at 36 it would be running OK.
Weak fuel pump, an internal leak between the pump and the feed line
inside the tank, or the fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator is bad, when
you pinch off the fuel return line it should go when you apply throttle, if it's
the same, I would say you got a bad pump or an internal leak inside the tank
Wild
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ok pulled the plug at the front of fuel rail and mounted a gauge there. Turn the key on and the pressure climbed up to about 48-50lbs. I pulled the crank sensor to see if it was broken or anything. Outside of tons of oil and silicone on it everything looked fine.The oil pump seal is leaking very badly,but can't find anything else wrong up front. Brought the timing marks up to top dead center and checked rotor position,it was on the mark.The idle that was there yesterday is gone now as it won't even start. I'm just ready to send it to the local
chevy dealer and let them figure it out.
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Codes don't say crank sensor is bad? it's got to be a sensor
problem of sorts, the other potential problems you have checked
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ok pulled the plug at the front of fuel rail and mounted a gauge there. Turn the key on and the pressure climbed up to about 48-50lbs. I pulled the crank sensor to see if it was broken or anything. Outside of tons of oil and silicone on it everything looked fine.The oil pump seal is leaking very badly,but can't find anything else wrong up front. Brought the timing marks up to top dead center and checked rotor position,it was on the mark.The idle that was there yesterday is gone now as it won't even start. I'm just ready to send it to the local
chevy dealer and let them figure it out.
So, did you check the fuel pressure with it running or just turn the key on and check the pressure? If you didn't do it with it running, then you need to recheck it. Just because a fuel pump will build pressure, doesn't mean it will maintain pressure, once you start the engine. Also, rev the engine and see that it maintains pressure.
IIRC, if the crank sensor it bad, it won't run at all.
Check all the fuses, make sure one didn't pop, for whatever reason.
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Ok got it running where I can goose it and it stays running. But the timing with the light is off the scale. It's so far advanced it shouldn't even be running. But I'm remember a post from another site about about the key way on the cranks getting wobbled out. I'm going to look in that direction this afternoon. Any thoughts?
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Did you check the ignition timing with it frozen? or are you checking it against the read out on the scanner?
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Checked it with the jumper wire in place.
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Yes and everything comes up normal. Could there be a possibility of a partialy clogged converter?
had a clogged converter cause this problem on a ford explorer so yes it could be a possibilty