ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: JDMCRX on June 20, 2004, 03:45:14 PM
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Front wheel bearing how hard they to do? 92 sidekick 4x4
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If you have the same setup as the Vitara model, you'll need a special tool to remove the bearing locknut. It's a circular tool with 4 fingers. The fingers fit into the nut. You'll need this to set the proper torque on the nut for the loading of the bearings.
Some just use a screwdriver and hammer to remove and install the locknut.
How did you determine the bearings need replacement?
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special tool hamer and a punch the tool i got cost $50 and 5 days it brook while i was using it.
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Well im not sure there is a bit of play in them and i wanted to change them for the hell of it
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i always thought the front small and the large (behind bearing) snap rings were a pain in the butt. cause the pin holes are different sizes, and that one behind is a BIG snap ring.  other wise its not really that hard.  just keep track of the order everthing comes off 8)
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if you have done alot of deep water crossings them they might not come off too easy. i did alot of deep water crossings and it washed all the grease out of the bearing. then i drove 50 miles home on it. bad thing. it had heated up the bearing so it expanded then it shrunk(sp) when it cooled off. b!tch to get them off after.
stu
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i always thought the front small and the large (behind bearing) snap rings were a pain in the butt. cause the pin holes are different sizes, and that one behind is a BIG snap ring.  other wise its not really that hard.  just keep track of the order everthing comes off 8)
Are you saying there are two snaprings on the bearings? One Front and one Rear.?
If so, I'm missing one ;D
Changing one this week. Need to press out the bearing race.
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Hawk will rent the socket for about half the price of buying. You may want to pay it. Think big bubba standing on the cheater torque on those nuts.
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the main bearings are easy to remove but there is a sleeve that needs to be removed and then has to be pressed back in.
thats the bad bit .. this sleeve is the running face for the new bearings.
i had a huge price quoted to replace the sleeve and supply fit bearings. so i bought 2 hubs from a breaker and fitted these instead.... only cost me a 5th of the price of the new bearings and if i go through them as i have been doing then the second hand ones don't get time to wear out as the mud and water soon wrecks them anyway
hope this is of use ;D
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sorry i guess when i refer to the smaller one i am talking about the only one on the outside, that holds the shaft in place.
the larger one in back is the one that holds the sleeve mentioned above in.
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sorry i guess when i refer to the smaller one i am talking about the only one on the outside, that holds the shaft in place.
the larger one in back is the one that holds the sleeve mentioned above in.
Thats a relief.
I found NAPA had the bearings for 50 bucks and the chevy dealer had it for 198, WTF. My driver side bearing spun on the shaft so I'm in the middle of fixing it. My lil Bro works as a Mech so pressing out the old sleeve was easy But he sandblasted the hub, Now I gotta paint it ;D
(http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/front%20spindle%20small%202.jpg)
Guess I should paint the dust cover too ;D
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there are 2 tapered roller bearings that hold the hub in place.
these wear and the sleeve they run on wears as well.
you need to replace the 2 bearings and have the old sleeve pressed out and a new one pressed in .. other wise the play will still be there.
you need to remove the central hub and have the sleeve pressed as hotrod did.
i tend to wash the bearings out with mud before they wear due to road miles ...
so i find it more economical to fit used hubs complete ... its only a 10 minute job then
;D
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when you got the bearing pressed out how did you do it? did you drive the truck to the shop or did you take in the spindle or what? i just orderd the 4 pin socket to take off the nut. just wondering what im going to need to do to get it done. and can i press out the bearing myself or not? thanks for you help
shane
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I had my lil bro take it to work after I took it off. (I have another car) You could press the bearing out if you had your own press or your big into shade tree mechanic. I would say it would be better to have someone with the right press to get it out. You can call around to shops and see if you brought them the hub they could poress it out and the new one in for a little fee.
Were did you find the 4-pin socket and how much?
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hawk suzuki 100.00 bucks cheapest i could find it. if you ship it back they will give you 75 bucks back but the way i see it is i will probably need it again sometime so i might decide to keep it.
shane
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hawk suzuki  100.00 bucks cheapest i could find it.  if you ship it back they will give you 75 bucks back but the way i see it is i will probably need it again sometime so i might decide to keep it.
shane
Mmmm. Something to thnk about. I'll rather do it the right way than guessing.
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TRACK_THIS
NAPA has a 3-pin socket that they say fits the nut and its 50 bucks.
Dealership is No Frinkin help.
WTF
Guess I'll just have to guess on torque and do the wobble test. ;)
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if you have a haynes book....hold on im gonna get mine they give the torque for that nut.....well depending on the year you have: Ft-lbs
92 and earlier...........89 to 148
93 sidekick................180
93 tracker.................155
94 and later(all models)............159
hope that helps
shane
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TRACK_THIS
NAPA has a 3-pin socket that they say fits the nut and its 50 bucks.
Dealership is No Frinkin help.
WTF
Guess I'll just have to guess on torque and do the wobble test. ;)
I had p/n for this before, dealership wanted $160 for it. I'll check out NAPA, got their p/n?
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I had p/n for this before, dealership wanted $160 for it. I'll check out NAPA, got their p/n?
Not with me, I ordered over the phone when I got home and checked with dealer. . It was a factory BackOrder. Meaning I don't know when I'll ever get it or not :-/
But what they (NAPA) showed was a 3 pin socket for 97 and up years but the dealer said ( :-/) its the same part # for the wheelnut from 95 to 97 and it should work :-/
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hmmm thats kinda wierd i have a 94 and it has four pins on the nut and the socket i ordered had four pins also, have you looked at the wheel bearing nut too see if it has three pins?? i would be concerned about putting 150 some ft-lbs of torque on three pins instead of four. just a thought.
shane
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Yup. Just put mine together and there is 4-pin holes for tightening so I son't know where they came up with a 3-pin socket. Thats a Chevy dealer for ya ;D
"O"Well, I'm back on the road and will test it out tomorrow ;D
Maybe I'll have to call Hawk and order a 4-pin socket, Never hurts to have too many of the RIGHT tools around ;D
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Important lesson learned.
BUY THE RIGHT TOOL!!.
Got it back together, wheeled it sunday b-4 last (6/27) didn't drive it all week. Went to wheel it last Sunday. the tire didn't quit look right but I figured the spring was getting soft. Wheeled the crap out of it. Got home and decided to jack it up and check for freeplay and find a squeek. Damn! :o guess I'm lucky I got home.
We didn't have the right tool and tighten it the best we could and found out it got hung up and wasn't on all the way (about 1/8 inch).
Now we're getting the right tool and redoing it. ;D
But. I still had fun and it didn't slow me down the whole time I was wheeling ;D
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Heres the tool ;D
Lil Bro made it at work (on his breaks ;D)
He saved me a 100 bucks. ;D ;D
(http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/wheel%20tool%202.jpg)
So, If anybody is in my neck of the woods and needs to borrow one, Let me know ;D