ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: jow003 on May 14, 2010, 08:00:36 AM
-
so after 7 years of lookin at this im doin more than tires. I know first and foremost i need to get rid of the rust. my resources are fairly limited due to not having my own welder nor the knowledge to use it but ill learn. any pointers would be much appreciated.
i have:
-ABS panelling for the interior
-speakers and headunit
-SPOA 5" thats somewhere in the mail
-new alternator/battery
-new seats
still in the works:
-front bumper
-rear bumper
-eventually a VW diesel swap
-rhino line outside and floorboard inside
-31"s
-lockers
-gears
-snorkel
-rockrails
-skidplates/diff guards
-fender flares(still not quite grown out of the mud flingin' stage of my life tho so its low on the list)
-
-
New Spark Plugs
New Tach that works!!
New Seats: Installed
Pic to come...
SPOA comes in today and ill start that
-
hey if you don't mind do you think you could take some step by step pics of your SPOA lift.
Also where did you get it from and for how much?
Thanks
Josh
-
I got it from Rocky-road and up until now was plannin on buyin anything i could from them. The customer support (when they are open) is great and they can answer any question you can throw at them but i ordered the 5" bolt-on w/ shocks(mine we ~23years old) and OTT steer. First, it only comes with 2 lower shock mounts, they want you to use the stock mounts for the rear and for me, after i saw the hardcore new ones, the stock ones look like kiddie toys. the directions that they say are "so good" consist of a page and a half for the OTT which were pretty bad (myself and 2 buddies had no idea what it was tryin to tell us to do) and another page and a half for the ENTIRE spoa. granted from what i have done so far, its pretty easy but if its easy, say its easy but still give a good step by step. ill try and scan it and post em and you can say im crazy or im right. Yesterday i ordered some 1.5" OME springs, rear up front conversion, shackles and the other pair of shock mounts from Low Range Offroad, they had everything in stock (unlike RRO) and shipped it same day. They were really helpful, prices were a little more than RRO but if your in the middle of a project like i am and wanna change out other stuff so you dont have to re-disassemble stuff you took apart later or put your build on hold for a week or more, you cant go wrong with them from what i can tell.
going back to the original question, the hardest part thus far was getting the front shocks off (dont laugh :P). Im doin one axle at a time bc my tools and jack stands are limited. the tie rod end was a mother to get off also (i will say RRO advised to use a pickle fork and thats what i eventually had to buy so we'll see if that works). i have a radio that im tryin to fab a box for so i can install it, if anyone has any ideas id appreciate it, im thinkin tryin to use a tuperware thing so its more waterproof but thats kinda .... reggin rigged... but ya.
Best Piece of advice i can give you that i had to learn the hard way, WASH your truck before you work, it sucks havin dirt caked on everything your workin on and it just sucks all the way around.
ill take some pics tonight and post em tomorrow
-
had a quick question about tires, when its all said and done ill have:
5" spoa
1.5" OME springs w/ rears up front
1" shackles....
what size tires should i look at? im plannin on gettin 15x8 wheels
and after those tires will i also need to get new gears?
-
hey... sup dog? as far as your question on tires, it's really up to you. how do you want your rig to handle, where are you going to be taking it? up rocks, boulders, through mud, sand, etc.... gearing goes for the same... what's your ultimate goal? and from there, you can decide on a locker for the rear, or maybe the front as well, with added power steering of course! the wheels don't really matter, until you are going bigger than a 29 or 30" tire. after spending some couple yrs in a tire shop, if your wheels are kinda narrow, say 8" and you put a 10" tire on it, it just bulges out a bit, and there for causes rub if the offset isn't right. looks cool, but are you going for looks, or ????.... see what i'm sayin? get some 15x10 wheels, u can usually get some blk steel krawler ones for like 50 bucks a wheel.. but i'm not sure up here.
any ways, you never did let me know how the ott install went, last I knew everyone was too drunk to do anything lol... did you get any of it done? also, I'm glad you called sean and his bro at LowRangeOffRoad.com, told ya they had everything and were great ppl...
-
ya never could get the tie rod end off. usin a pickle fork and beatin the hell out of it, nothin. i have 29x8.50s on now and i was thinkin about 31x1150s. back home all there was was mud, up here its mostly trails and rocks so i dunno, not all that interested in tearin up everything im workin on with big ass rocks but a little crawlin isnt bad. still wanna be able to drive it on the road altho i wont do that too much or for long distances. i just wanna have fun ;D. anyhow ya, prolly mostly trails, some mud if i can find it.
-
mud is always fun, and even tho u say u don't want to tear it up on rocks... I have been up some extreme stuff rated more than what my last krawler was rated for, and I never damaged a thing. that's what rock sliders, roll bars and what not are for... you can make it a bit more extreme, and still drive it around town too ya know. ;) just needs lights, bumpers, turn signals and other safety stuff.. mirrors etc.... any ways, I haven't even registered mine yet, still doing alot of work to it. I was in the garage last night, thinking to myself, "ya know... I really kinda want to buggy this out and cut it u a bit, but it's too clean and I want a BLVD BUGGY along with the capabilities of a nice krawler too"... I'm not afraid of hitting the rocks and trails and hammering down. you will find out that once you do it... it's more addicting than you hoped for, and bam!!!! more money spent for the next parts to take you up the trail higher and onto bigger and better rocks and boulders! remember that... lol
-
ya never could get the tie rod end off. usin a pickle fork and beatin the hell out of it, nothin.
as far as the tie rod end, what one? off of the pitman arm? or off of the knuckle its self? the best thing I have ever come up with on getting tie rods out, it this... simply take a BFH... (big fuc|removethispart|@#&*% hammer) and smack right on the front of the arm where it's bolted to... not the tie rod it's self, but the arm it's bolted to, like this...
----------l (tierod end)
smack here and it will pop right out ------>o------- (where tierod goes through. it goes into "the arm off the knuckle, or off of the pitman arm. smack right on the face of it. don't hit the tierod, but the arm it's self, might take a couple of swings)
-
haha ya i need a bigger hammer definately. honestly i just want something that is all around perfect, never loses traction, not top heavy, plenty of power, you know, the basics haha. im gonna work on that and prolly the front springs if i have time tonight. i really need some air tools >:D now if only my checking account would get with it
-
hey buddy, so.. I get off work next wed night. 7 days from tomorrow. any ways, I don't have bills so if it's not done by then, I can make it up there to help out. just keep me informed on how the build is coming. pics here are great too!!! oh... I just got 1 side of my rock sliders done today, finish up the other side next week lol... and then I will post everything up on here.
-
thats awesome man! rock sliders are definately on my list. be safe and if i can quit droppin the ball ill get some pics up here.
my springs and shit came in yesterday and for the life of me i couldnt get the stock ones off, im to the point i may hook up a winch to the end of the wrench to turn it, as for the tie rod end, i have greased it, ripped off the rubber guard to clean it and re-grease it and still doesnt do anything but stare back at me with a fu*k you look, lol if i thought i could get it by the weekend or had the $ for ir id just buy another pitman arm
-
haha no sweat... I wanna come up on this days off and get it done with ya... and the springs... that's why I recommended a sawz-all... lol... most likely, the bolts in the bushings are seized, and... if you get the nut to break loose, the bolt is gonna fight ya anyways..... hence the sawz-all... >:D
anyhow.. I will shoot ya a pm closer to days off and let ya know what's going on, and I will keep an eye on ur build to see if you have any progress with it.
ttyl brotha
-
so this was what i was workin on today, fyi a hack saw IS NOT an acceptable replacement for a sawzall. the tie rod end is still stuck in the pitman arm, gonna get a bigger hammer tomorrow...
here are some pics of the OME springs and the shackles im puttin on and what they are replacing
-
wow.. now I see what u got goin on there with that pitman arm. couldn't see it too well on my phone pic u sent. like I said, if u can't get it by this next weekend, I'm plannin on commin up so we can get it then. anyways, lookin good, just gotta get to installing them parts bud! oh.. and pics during the install are always a plus ;)
-
ha...ha...ha... quit givin me shit for not takin pics of the stuff ON. haha its comin, road blocks im learnin are in every direction! just got a big ass hammer tho so we'll see
-
so the hammer helped me FINALLY get my doors off so they are now removable!! not exactly the immediate goal but its something
-
so, i still cant get the bolt out of the pitman arm, anyone have any suggestions?
-
What bolt are you talking about?
Pickle fork, Big hammer, gear puller, and heat if needed.
Amilla
-
its on the first page in a pic, was connected to the tie rod link connecting to the pitman arm, i cut off the link thinking i could then get a better grip on it with vice grips but its not budgin. tried hittin the end and sides of the pitman arm to get it loose but it didnt seem to do anything. im not familiar with a gear puller but the only heat i have is a crappy soldering iron and my gf hairdryer
-
Cant believe you ORDERED a SPOA kit,I do those EASY with new ($3x4=$12) spring pads.Yea,those leaf bolts are a bitch.Havent had a issue with dropping the steering arm on the passenger side with a Pickle Fork,pops right off.
-
those are good looking spring mounts. my tools and space is pretty limited, see thats what i was told, triend the pickle fork but no luck, and now im realizin how much of a pickle im in.... whatever shut up my mom thinks im funny :laugh:
im thinkin this weekend may try welding a bolt to the end i cut and use a breaker bar
-
Cant believe you ORDERED a SPOA kit,I do those EASY with new ($3x4=$12) spring pads.Yea,those leaf bolts are a bitch.Havent had a issue with dropping the steering arm on the passenger side with a Pickle Fork,pops right off.
FWIW: Those spring perches are horrible for doing a SPOA and can easily result in ripped axle housing and bent tubes with any bit of hard wheeling. They just don't go far enough around the axle tube. On the steering, the easiest way to get tie rods and drag links off is to use a 5lb hammer and hit the arm right on the end of it straight inline with the arm. The shock will 'pop' out the tie rod end. This method only takes 4 or 5 hits max even with rust and is much easier then pickle forks, heat, etc...
Hope that helps..
-Eric
-
ya thanks, i have a 3lb hammer so ill either need to whack it harder or get a bigger hammer >:D
-
ya thanks, i have a 3lb hammer so ill either need to whack it harder or get a bigger hammer >:D
Whatever you do, don't force it... get a bigger hammer!
:)
-Eric
-
c'mon now Oliver.... I will be there on sunday.... I will bring the tools needed, grinder with wire wheel, discs, cut-off wheels, maybe the welder, might have to wire it differently again, but that's ok. hammers, sockets and wrenches. soo.... enjoy your time and let her sit for a couple more days. it's friday now, get ready to go camping and enjoy it, help will be there sunday and I will get the old tierod out, and everything else done in a timely manner..... and it wont be all ghetto either. I'm good at what I do... if there were other members still on here that aren't on much anymore, they could chime in and tell ya, I'm perty darn gud, im egimakated round atomobiles... haha just kidden, but really, I..... we..... will get it done. I live by a saying, "can't get 'er, can't stay" and I always get er done the right way. have faith and go have a beer brotha ;)
-
haha see thats the thing, i have seen your rig and trust your good at what you do, i wanna get as much of the small crap done so you can help with the bigger probs like rust and others. btw if you have a couple jack stands, might not hurt. i have 4 and a floor jack so if you think we might need couple more/have em... other than that all that sounds good, welder might come in handy
-
Soooo... With a shite ton of help sunday from blknight87, got the front end done with the exception of connecting the passenger brake. it looks awesome!!! im attachin pics of whats done thus far, sorry its not any better of a step by step, i get tunnel vision when im workin and forget to snap a couple shots. Other than using RRO parts it went smoothly. speaking of which, they are terrible when it comes to customer service! you can ask em tech Qs and theyll answer pretty well but their CS is close to the worst i have encountered. When i got my 5" SPOA i counted 7 U-bolts that were the correct looking size and 1 that was bigger, i called and said asked in a normally polite way (im a sounthern boy and try to be respectful) they acted like i was an idot, brushed me off sayin its all correct, and to be used on passenger side front axle and everything is double checked before it leaves. sunday when Matt was helpin me we realized that it was the wrong size so monday i called to inform them and get the correct size, they said they'd send it out and bc im in the 2-day bracket id get it wed. since im waiting on that part to finish my build i said since it was their fault they should next day it. in a really snippy attidue they said they arent a "shipping charity" and they dont "charge enough for that kind of customer service." he said they might be able to pay half of the next day price and i could pay the other half.
As soon as i hung up with them i called Low Range, ordered the other parts that i needed (drop pitman arm, shackles for the rear and U-bolt skid plates) they were VERY helpful even tho it was a crazy day, i had to call i think 5 times bc the phones were busy.
as for working monday, i changed rear brake lines and worked on gettin the stock springs off, btw hack saws still suck compared to sawzalls, got almost done with only 1/2 a bolt to cut left when my last blade smoothed out. so i moved to takin off the stock shackles, my socket got stuck on the bolt and when i was yankin on it to get it off i succeeded in gettin it and nailin my thumb on the bumper. The bumper is fine, dont worry, but my thuimb nail is now black (and matt, Aubrey offered me a sesame street band aid, i didnt want to be gay and match so i turned it down :P ). ill post tomorrow with what gets accomplished tonight
-
and more pics
-
sorry about not turnin those pics, these are.
-
Looking good! It's going to be pretty tall. :) What springs are those?
-Eric
-
Old man emu. i have been told they might be a bit light but i already have em so we'll see. im tryin to decide if i wanna go with chromoly axles or just go ahead and jump to yota ones since ill proly end up doin that anyhow
-
haha passed up on the band aid huh, lol... I was a big enough boy to wear it! haha.... Aubrey seemed very sweet, you should get her out there more to wrench with you, thank her again for the band aid.... stupid RRO parts, now I can say, my sweat and "blood" is into your samurai ;) any ways, sorry I didn't leave any tools, sawzall, grinder, etc... tools are tools, and I wasn't sure when I was going to be back up there, and again, sorry the day went so fast, didn't seem like we got much done, not having the right cut on the perches, and lack of hardware kinda screwed us up on time, back and forth to the parts store slowed things down but hey, it was still cool and fun.... glad to hear you got those brake lines apart... that front was a bugger and when I say bugger.... I mean a mother F*&|removethispart|@#R!!!!!!!! any ways, keep us updated, I'm working nights this week, so I will jump on when I can during the day and check up on things..
Laterz................................................ BLKNIGHT87
-
na you helped me a ton! Aubrey wasnt far off when she said you saved me a month or so. as for the tools no worry, i know how that goes. tools, more than just about anything else grow feet and walk off, i need to build my tool library anyhow. i tried gettin her out there yesterday but she was busy doin somethin, those rear brake lines were cake other than havin to work around the gas tank which wasnt hard.
-
so i got all the stuff and gonna get after it today, my goal is to be drivin by sunday so we'll see, worried the spring perches are gonna need grinding but im hopin for the best
-
got the rear springs/shackles and half of the axle remounted, aswell as adding my front shaft spacer. I do have a question tho, when i was tightening my Ubolts one of the 4 is bent to where i cant cinch it down, i got it just over finger tight but the angle that its at i cant get my socket or anything else on it. the others are all quite tight and all 4 have lock tight on them, how sketchy is that?
-
got the rear springs/shackles and half of the axle remounted, aswell as adding my front shaft spacer. I do have a question tho, when i was tightening my Ubolts one of the 4 is bent to where i cant cinch it down, i got it just over finger tight but the angle that its at i cant get my socket or anything else on it. the others are all quite tight and all 4 have lock tight on them, how sketchy is that?
Sketchy.... buy new ubolts all the way around. It's a small bit of insurance. Have you ever seen a rig where the axle fell off? It's not pretty...
Plus having it loose may break the spring.
-Eric
-
they are all new and the other side of the u-bolt is cinched really tight but i cant get a grip on that one bolt. i havent seen an axle come off, but with how tight the others are unless im doin something i have no buisiness doin. is that still not worth the risk?
-
the other side of the axle went on just like it was supposed to with only 1 bloody knuckle (deep well slippin off). think im gonna take it out around the block once its runnin, come back and see if its moved so i can tighten that ubolt.
ALL THATS LEFT TO INSTALL:
-Rear Shocks
-Drop Pitman Arm
-One brake line+fluid (btw if you have an extra bolt that connects the front line to the caliper please lemme know)-refer to pic
-Mount the rear tires
-re check for tight bolts/nuts
am i forgetting anything?
last but not least, a celebratory beer/jager shot
-
So after taking the "Knights" advise, i got my girlfriend at the end of my breaker/cheater while i wailed on it with a hammer and eventually got the old pitman arm bolt etc off, (btw i could get the stock steering stabilizer mount to bend around the new one from LRO, any advice?)put the new one on and got everything connected. went to Napa twice yesterday to get the banjo bolt i was lookin for, apparantly they dont normally carry the one that fits in the samurai... bleed the brakes and rear shocks i think....... looks like im gettin done about 2 weeks shy of what it took you knight >:D were you just bein lazy or what haha
-
After gettin the brakes "done" and shocks put on it ran!!! neither of which are done well and a small note, the u-bolt skid plates from calmini CANNOT go on the rear axle as i was hoping. the shock mount on them sticks out to far to the rear and causes the shock to lean forward which makes the rubber grommets very difficult to go on the perches and also makes the shock hit the gas tank skid. my rear passenger brake bleeder nipple stripped ont the outside so i couldnt bleed that one, didnt think it would be that big a deal but i was largely mistaken. there is also something grinding inside one of the rear brakes and since i didnt don anything to those its questionable. i think and fear that the angle of my driveshafts are too great which is also causing them to bump/grind but im not sure. and as i just now walked back out there to snap a couple more pictures i realized both driverside brakes are leaking, |removethispart|@&$#%!*.... anyhow here are some of what im talking about. Im not a big fan of RRO as most of yall know but they do make a good u-bolt skid/lower shock mount.
-
these are the differences between the Calmini and RRO. Calmini is first, notice how much the shock mount sticks out from the ubolts
-
and gettin to play a little
-
right on! nice pics!! how does the ride handle from the lift? how is the steering? ever get that drop pitman arm on? i think it's cool that your girl goes with you! mine would never go... that's awesome!!! tell her hi, and when we go, (me and you) I don't think she will like it lol... but you can bring her to show me i'm wrong i guess lol... jurry up on gears and a winch!!!
-
haha she said she thinks you underestimate her. it handles surprisingly well, in my opinion not having a steering stabilizer on. got the pitman arm on-broke my first breaker bar and used a new one (thank God for warranties) with a cheater bar, and whacked the shite out of it with my big hammer, after soaking it in PB-blaster for a couple days i only had to hit it about 100 times before it moved lol. gotta get my battery re-charged, got a fire extinguisher, worked on my radio today and i gotta find my title so i can get it licensed but it ran. still need to work on brakes and other clunks thats there now and wasnt before but im excited. i am pissed i think im gonna have to take the rear ubolt skids off and get RRO ones but such is life right?
-
Sooo..... got a question. with the new found tire space that i have would i be able to fit 34x1050s? if i can fit them would it limit what i can do? im not big into rock crawlin but id like to be able to get around/up some. im plannin on getting new 15x8 rims with 2.5 backspace but im not sur if that will give me enough room. I dont have a prob cuttin bc it will save me having to grind off rust but i would like to get front/rear bumpers eventually
-
with 34's, you will rub the leaf springs when you turn lock to lock, I rub with my 33's and I have a 2.5" offset. mine are also 12.5 wide, but when you reduce the tire width, and make it taller in the same distance, you are in the same sense putting it back to where it would be, cut an inch here and replace it there... make sense? height is different, and yes, you might be able to clear 34's just fine in the wheel wells after some trimming, but... do some measurements and go from there. I was not going to be able to clear the 35's with 3" backspacing on the springs, the body was missing about 3" of fender wells.
-
Phuck a duck. i was hopin those would work. they are the LTBs i wanted but not the size i was lookin for
-
so those "34s" are actually 33.6.... not that big of a difference but its something
-
Over the weekend went to 4wp expo and got a set of 33x1250 Mickey Thopson MTZ and Dick Cepek DC-2s 15x8. cant say enough about the customer service at the Denver 4 wheel parts! when i first bought them the pl at the expo said there was no way i could get them mounted same day. went to pick em up at the warehouse and just figured id ask they said no prob, be about 45 min. after about that long a guy came up and said he had some bad news. Mickey Thompson/Dick Cepek put the wrong wheels in the DC-2 box and they only had 2 of the ones i bought. he said i could get the other wheels for the same price(sidebiter gloss black) or wait and they would ship the other 2 wheels ASAP. i decided to wait for them to ship em. he then preceeded to find another $94 in discounts and price breaks that i missed/he gave me for not gettin everything done that day and having to get the other 2 mounted somwhere else. He also didnt charge me for mounting the 2 that were done there. it was a great experience altho i had to drive 2 hours haha. next thing on the docket is gears/wheel spacers- 1.5" up front and 2" in back, any ideas?
-
I would mount them first and see how much trimming is going to be needed before you look at spacers. I ran some crome 15x8 rims with my SJ-410 with a straight SPOA in the front for a few years. There was a little bit of rubbing but a hammer took care of that.
The main difference is my springs are 1.5" inboard over a Samurai so I never have to worry about clipping the springs, just fender clearance.
-
how did you doit inboard?
-
got the other 2 tires mounted on the wheels yesterday and started to pu em on and came to the realization that real wheels (aka not stock samurai wheels) take up alot more space on the lugs. started with the front pass side and cant even get the whole nut on the lug. on top of that the front of the tires rub the springs, ex. wit my 29s i can make 2 full rotations of the steering wheel either way, with these only 1 1/2. would 1.5" spacers alleviate that?
Regarless i think it looks pretty good minus the caked mud and rust which im gettin to :P
-
couple of pics, upgrade difference and glamour
-
cant really tell it rubs by the picture(its hard to hold the wheel as fas as it'll go and take a picture) but the sidewall hits that bolt on the spring
-
2" spacers ordered all the way around, still need gears tho
-
I just don't understand why you are rubbing.... I have ran 33x12.5's and not rubbed at all!!! or even came close... of course they were on some blk rock steel wagon wheels with the proper back spacing/offset... maybe the rims are throwing it off..... just baffles me lol... when do ur spacers come or do you have them already?
-
ought to get them end of the week or beginning of next. still gotta get gears. I really dont wanna spend a G tho, lol to many oter things id rather get than something ill never really see. thinkin i might get that twin stick thing that allows for 2hi/lo and 4hi/lo, what you think?
-
IMHO twin sticks are nice, but.. if you leave your hubs unlocked, and go to 4x you are still turning your front drive gears, just not the hubs inturn not the tires, I myself think the twin sticks are cool, but when do you really need the 2 low option? or the 2 high? if the transfer needs to be shifted, it should be into 4 hi for mud or sand, and then your gonna want all 4 spinning anyways, right? as far as gears, I know you can find cheaper Tcases geared and ready to go for less than a grand. I sold my last one for 500 shipped, if I was gonna spend a grand or so, I would just get the 8:1 for the money and enjoy the hell out of it! but the 6:1's are insane too! keep searching, or check other sites like zukikrawlers.com (http://zukikrawlers.com) I'm over there too and it's another great site.
-
i figured that would break something havin one in 2wd and the other in 4, o well. changed my rear brakes and rear driver wheel cyl which were way past due, ill be puttin on the spacers today and hopefully a test drive around the block then start on taking the t-case out
-
got my gears in and hopefully will have it installed tonight! Went with the color bc... well it looked obnoxiously awesome >:D
-
awesome bud! I actually love the color... my last samurai was that green on the frame and undercarriage! with black on the body it looks sharp! hurry and let us know how you like the gears!
-
ya, i was hoping to install it last night but as it turns out, because i painted it, 3 nuts wont go in bc the holes are clogged with paint and ont of the mounting stock holes is just barely too small to fit the bolt it came with so i gotta go today and get a uni bit and a... cant remember the name but what rethreads and cleans the hole so i can hopefully get it in. and dont worry, as soon as its rollin, you'll know!
-
a tap and die set... tap to tap the hole... a die... and i could be spelling it wrong, but a die cleans up, or re threads bolts or studs.
-
so after 3 hours of tryin to set it, pullin it out and trying to match the 17 holes it has, i only could get 2 at any given time. Called up ZOR and Myron said if i mailed it to him he'd set it in no charge. So... went to UPS and they said it'd be 30 bucks each way, i gritted my teeth and handed over my credit card, and somehow i only got charged for a one way flight. all to say 30 bucks is steep for setting a t-case in a cradle but its worth my peace of mind.
-
haha Myron is a good dude... he takes care of his ppl
-
thats the way it sounded
-
got it back and mounted in.... cant put the gear shift in bc a horizontal bolt that holds it in place was broken, always somethin....
-
Pink and green. Your right, that is obnoxiously awesome. :D
-
it looks pink but its actually red. hopefully it'll be drivin by tomorrow afternoon, assumin i get my bolt in
-
Well.... IT LIVES!!!!!! ran it up 40 miles round trip on a lite trail just to putt putt around and make sure everything was sound.
-In 2wd it was great, 4wd made some weird noise, like the driveshaft was bumpin something when it was turning,
-While in 2wd and hitting bumps the rig would die. almost as tho it was getting either too much or too little gas, it would then take 5-7 min of feathering the gas to get it to balance out which made me think it was flooding but im not sure.
-Speedometer works(the cable i replaced was melted thru) but the needle starts from about 3/4" below zero and then goes up normally from there.
-still no working gas guage/temp guage.
-all in all it was a great ride! Definately need a steering stabilizer tho and some fender flares :P
for 33x1250s is there a good rule of thumb about air pressure?
-
I think your rig looks GREAT! I am going through the same transformation with mine right now. SPOA lift goes on in the near futue. Because of winter comming soon here I am trying to geat as many weather related issues completed ASAP.
Tell me the name and brand of those 10x34's you were looking at. I am wanting to get as tall but narrow of a tire I can within reason.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Tux...
-
they were super swampers... narrow SS have 34x950, LTB which is what i was about to get are 34x1050 but i dont remember.
-
Like you I have been busy.... I finished stage 1 of my front bumper last Friday. I will be adding the outer post to it this Friday. As well as adding a receiver to the rear bumper.
Then I will be adding a swwing away upper cage to the rear bumper..... Much to do before the snow flies..... Whew!
(http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/45830/2691990590081905758S600x600Q85.jpg)
Tux... ;)
-
I run 25 lbs on the road in my SJ and 12 on the trails. 25 gets me quite a bit more power as the rolling resistance is a lot less, but on the trail it tends to bounce me around a bit to much. :)
Are you running a fuel pressure regulator?
-
fuel pressure what-a-lator? :P
if its not stock, no. is it a autozone type part or something id need to order from LRO?
EDIT: fuel pump(low/high pressure)?
-
A fuel pressure regulator, Autozone usually has them in the section next to all the chrome stuff for 350's. It is designed to limit the fuel pressure so you don't flood your carb. It shouldn't be an issue if your running a stock carb with the stock fuel pump. But if you are running a Webber that might be the cause of your issues.
Or you might just need to fix the float. I'm not to big on carb tuning. The little side draft on my 410 works great once I replaced it and my Tracker has FI. :P
-
so... yesterday i didnt have to go to work (God likes me sane), with my spare time i decided to put in my radio, FINALLY. assuming all my wires are water tight(doubtful) i can take water up to the mouth of the white. Speaker boxes i got a RRO and bc they suck and mislead their customers, i had to figure out a place to put them. O, and the red plugs are my switch power, i didnt want to splice into another wire and that was easiest
-
I found the perfect way to solve my carb troubles without having to turn a single wrench on it!!!!
the answer you ask? swapping in a 2.0L VW engine after quitting my job before i start the Police academy in January!!
seems like the perfect idea to me :laugh: so if you need anything off of a stock 1.3 engine ill prolly be taking it out just before Christmas here in Colorado and then towing it down to Riverside, CA.
-
I found the perfect way to solve my carb troubles without having to turn a single wrench on it!!!!
the answer you ask? swapping in a 2.0L VW engine after quitting my job before i start the Police academy in January!!
seems like the perfect idea to me :laugh: so if you need anything off of a stock 1.3 engine ill prolly be taking it out just before Christmas here in Colorado and then towing it down to Riverside, CA.
Awe ..... JEALOUS!!
-
as far as a smart decision for my future its hit or miss with the economy but other than parts and travel its fairly cheap.
only road block i have come to thus far is finding some reliable rollers for the Zuk at a good price
-
My enigne got picked up yesterday!! got it with flywheel/clutch, ECU, harness etc for 550.
Its a 94-95 ish year "aba obd1" for anyone fluent in Vdub :P has about 60K miles on it so not too high. my cousin is plannin on tearin it down and seeing what needs to be fixed so come january it'll be all ready to go. the previous owner had a turbo on it that had some blow by so theres alot of oil gunk on it but the manifold is shiny
If anyone has Qs ill try to answer them, i may have to relay them to the mechanic tho
BTW: my cousin is located in Riverside, CA and is starting his business up working on pretty much anything. if you need something built etc look him up. his website is still bein worked on but it'll give you atleast an idea. exit0customs.com
-
nice car you built.im doing somthing simular here in sweden.but now im fixing a lot of rust,replacing the rear wings both sides and the floor.like your wheels.keep up the good work
-
Thanks. ya, rust has been a common swear word around here.
-
Yes,its the same here.sweden is the land of rust.are going to mount an winch.if so,what kind of winch are you going to use
-
im not sure yet. my cousin that is gonna help me with the engine is also gonna fab me some bumpers. as for the winch i like Warn but i dont have the money for that, i also like the xrc8 comp bc it has the synthetic rope and aluminum fairlead makes it i think 40 pounds lighter. thats gonna be a bit in the future tho. i would rather have everything working right and then build up to the winch than getting a winch but nowhere to put it.
i really like the idea Warn had with the winch that bolts into a hitch, that way it can be used on the front or on the back
-
finally got my custom plates in!! not to shabby imho
-
some better pics of the engine and the cluster-F of the harness i get to adapt
-
and more
-
looks like fun.
-
I cant wait to start it but im kinda nervous about everything fitting together already lol. it has a 90amp alternator on it which im hoping will be plenty to power a winch/more lights.
for anyone who knows VW engines, the specs:
1995 OBD-1 vw jetta ABA 2.0 8v motor
It has an Autotech 260 cam with maybe 2000 miles...
Kent Cam gear
Eurosport Crank Pulley
Autotech 10mm plug wires
polished intake manifold
Also have harness and ECU with Autotech chip installed
-
Sat mornin went for a nice lil drive up a mt road with my girl, good 'ol dirty fun :D
then Sunday got my first duck!!
-
Sat mornin went for a nice lil drive up a mt road with my girl, good 'ol dirty fun :D
then Sunday got my first duck!!
Holy crap how big of a lift is that? Oh and are those the wheels you're selling?
PS. Good dog!
-
Sat mornin went for a nice lil drive up a mt road with my girl, good 'ol dirty fun :D
then Sunday got my first duck!!
Holy crap how big of a lift is that? Oh and are those the wheels you're selling?
PS. Good dog!
If I were a bettin man I would say this is his technical info for the ride......
87 Samurai...
5" SPOA/OTT -RRO
1.5" leaf springs-OME
RUF conversion-Trail Tough
1" shackles
33x1250x15 MTZs
15x8- DC-2s
-
Yeah I'm a retard and didn't remember to read the rest of the post.
Thanks for pointing that out :P :(
-
haha! ya, said and done ~6.5 i think. Yes those are the wheels im sellin :( stood in line and went thru so much crap bein on the fence if i should get those or not and now im sellin em :'( o well lol.
thanks Z3ro, ya she's allright, still has some kinks to work out as far as retrieving a duck thats still kickin a little but she's getting the hang of it
-
Oh she's better than alright, look at that hot FUPA she's got goin on there....
lol j/k.
-
haha ya she likes to hav that face when she's in pics. thought about takin her up when we went up in the samurai but i with my springs not yet broken in yet she would have hated all the bouncing
-
What took me literally months to do, we undid in a matter of an hour and a half....
-
hows the build coming jow its been awhile any updates for us?
-
i have spent a good chunk of time today tryin to load some pics up but for some reason i am not allowed to add them. something about my upload folder being full. i am still workin on it so we'll see
-
ive had that too but on all of the forums so ive had to get an account with photobucket inorder to post picks.
-
test pic.
2am while i was driving, my copilot was slacking
-
success!!
1. old engine
2. tranny bell housing pre cleaning
3. toy axles
-
1. new muffler- thorley $25 cheapo, hopefully it'll sound good.
2. the inside of the front axle :'(
3. more of the same
4. comparison of the front and rear 3rd
-
1. trannys new pain job. FYI a Coors light can is the perfect fit for the top to covers where the trans/t-case shaft goes in
2. new engine
3. with the adapter bolted on. -this adapter is great BUT you have to grind the crank down which basically ruins the resale value of it should you want to in the future
4. crank after being cut off
-
after FOUR hours with a die grinder the trans was ready to bolt on
1. trans attached
2. yayaya i know it was a crappy paint job but its good enough for gov't work
3. test fit, not bad.
4. another
-
WOW this is alittle overwhelming I am starting to get alittle excited :o
-
1. not quite a perfect fit as far as drop in
2. cousins truck he wants to sell. basically 100% custom from the paint in, so cool! wish i could afford it
3. what happens when a grinder wire wheel hits your finger thru a Mechanix glove. hurt alot more than it ended up lookin like
4. Cane's, the best fast food place in the world!!
-
Interesting.
-
when i left it was sitting in my sam but not bolted or anything. got the rust and extra metal that the plastic rockers clip to off, he painted it black. he's finishin up the motor mounts and then axles.
hopefully if there is enough cash in the bank account i can get bumpers also