ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: carl_hannes on July 08, 2010, 10:19:54 AM
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Hi everyone :)
My name is Hannes, I'm 16 years old and living in Sweden.
Of course I have to start with an apologize for my bad english.
I started a build on a suzuki SJ413 in spring 2009 when I was 14. It's a low budget project. Trying to combine time for studies, lack of money and time for my girlfriend with this project. ::)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/340201094701Af2ae.jpg)
This was my SJ413 from the start - in really bad condition. I think it wasn't one part of the sheet metal in the body that didn't have any rust. To be honnest it was surprising that the body just didn't collapse. I was held together with plastic filler and paint.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/e60201094746Aa1f6.jpg)
But it was very very cheap so it was suitable for my means. The goal was and still is to build as cheap as possible. I have to buy second hand and manufacture as much as possible myself. It's a terrible scarcity of money but my time is for free. I can sleep when I get old ;)
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Looks like a fun start to me. You don't have to worry about wrecking the body if it is already rusted out. :)
Have you done anything to it since last year?
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I decided to start the body makeover in the front right corner.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/008200911340538eb.jpg)
The previous owner had repair all rust with parts of textile sacks and polyester filler. Perhaps he never have heard of the possibility to join pieces of metal together by welding.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/318200911355298ce.jpg)
So when I used a bodywork hammer and pounded on the fender everything just fell of.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/d38200911372082b4.jpg)
So I carefully screw the fender away and found more proffesional repairs behind it that fell of just as easy as on the fender.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/f482009113827fdc2.jpg)
So here was where I started.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/9e8200911390772cb.jpg)
So here i have started the repair by welding some sheet metal.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/539200931933P4092.jpg)
Here the rust hole is history. After welding and grinding I did put on a thin layer of zinc and after that two component epoxi primer.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/38820091139511235.jpg)
And this is me in the middle of that work :)
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Fenders for Suzuki Sj's are far to expensive for me. So I had to build it myself from what I got.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/770200954714P6a81.jpg)
So first thing was to make the front corner and to rebuild the inner fender. I'm allways trying to be as near to the original that my ability and knowledge allows. This was a little tricky.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/e00200954924P5df2.jpg)
I'm lucky because my father has a SJ410 in perfect condition. That means that I allways can look at his Suzuki how things shall look like. I'm allways doing templates in paper for the sheet metal. Often I'm doing the templates from his SJ410.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/700200954850Pd159.jpg)
So here I have started with the inner fender.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/ec200994709PM214c.jpg)
This is a picture of the sheet metal I've made for the sides of the fenders, You can also see the template made from my fathers SJ410. I also made the profile that should be along it and above the fender flare. That is done in a machine and in swedish that is a "sick". I don't know the word in english for it.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/7d200940551PMa3df.jpg)
So here the inner fender is done with some zink on it.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/a7200940701PM86e3.jpg)
After that the sheet metal on the side was welded into place. Also some small pieces under the front corner are in place.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/622009121529Pa34d.jpg)
I also have to do repairs in front of the door behind the fender. Here it is with epoxy primer on. I hate this color of the primer so later on I did buy some gray instead :)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/351200952946P4734.jpg)
Here the fender is rebuilt with zink on it...
(http://forumbilder.se/images/853200951452P075f.jpg)
and here with epoxi primer and fender flare. Before that I used tin/lead as filler and of course a lot of grinding and sanding.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/e13200951533P4e20.jpg)
"Before and after" pictures are funny :)
That is all for today ::)
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Looks good. Thanks for sharing. Also, your English is actually very good.
-Eric
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Thank you Drone637 and ebewley for your pleasant comments :)
Time for bed. The time is about 32 minutes after midnight in sweden :sleepy:
/Hannes
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Very, very good work! You have a skill that no one can take away from you. I will be watching the rest of this build....
David
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Thanx for the positiv feedback Hillbillydave :)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/d85200922233Pbc08.jpg)
I took the opportunity to fix the brakes on the right side now that the wing easily could be removed to make the caliper easy to access.
Yoke and the cylinder had been jammed together.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/a45200922342Pde18.jpg)
Renovated the brake cylinder and replaced brake pads with new ones.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/5e5200922418Pb717.jpg)
Here's the remounted brake.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Great work... You have some excellent metal fabricating skills... I must agree with Eric, good English too.. Probably better than mine ;D
Zig
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Really GREAT work. Not many people (myself included) know how to use lead over here. You will be able to fix cars for a long time with your ability.
This is going to be a project to follow.
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Thats some VERY nice work carl.
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Thank you for your kind comments Zukipilot, BRD HNTR and TNTracker. Doing bodywork with lead isn't rocket science BRD HNTR. It's a myth that it is difficult. Anyone can learn. I learned that in just some days by my father.
Filling with thick layers of polyester is actually a problem in the long run. Plastic and metal, as steel, do have very diffrent thermic properties. That means that they expand and shrinks very differently when it turns from warm to cold to warm (in Sweden we can have +40 centigrades in summer and -40 centigrades in winter). So it's a big risk that the plastic will loosen from the sheet metal. Also if there is microscopic holes in the welding water will come up between polyester and steel by the capillary effect. So it's a big risk that the rust is comming back in a short time. Tin/lead, on the other hand, has thermic properties near steel and will attach by other physical laws.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/435200982210Pb0d8.jpg)
Here is the local blacksmith shop. That is a good place searching for cheap surplus steel.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/4d5200982332P3005.jpg)
Here I have found a 3 meter long 80x80x4 millimeter square pipe. Hmm... what could that be used for? ;)
Kind regards from
Hannes
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You're 16 and you did that yourself? Thats some real skill there.
00:32, never mind it'll be probably be light again in about 10 minutes :D Whereabouts in Sweden do you live?
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;) Ya got skills kid! Your going to go far, good for you!
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I'm glad you like my project Rhinoman and bentparts :) but I'm not going to work with restoring cars. It will be studies in computer science. Cars are funny as a hobby though.
I'm living 270 kilometers north of Stockholm. It's a bit south ( I dont know maybe 600 km) from the polar circle but in mid summer the sun is just dipping down under the horizon (so we are near the polar circle enough). So in practice we have daylight 24 hours for some week and very short nights rest of the summer (but it's not real midnight sun).
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When I pulled away the plastic side panels under the doors large parts of the sheet metal under it (is it called rockers in english?) was non-existing :)
So I decided to replace everything there with the 80x80x4 square pipe. I think that will have strength enough for hard driving in the terrain.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/c05200985241Paeb6.jpg)
So here I have started to make place for it on the right side
(http://forumbilder.se/images/6f5200985407Pf36d.jpg)
The paint that the former owner had used was some cheap shit so I have to remove that. That paint will dissolve by the two component paint that I'm using. Also I want to be sure that it isn't rust under it.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/645200985320P476f.jpg)
The floors are also rusted out. So I have to make new ones later on. Here I have just cut out a bit of the floor on passenger side. It's easer to make a new beam that iattaches the body to the frame this way.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/667200983526P80f5.jpg)
So this is the new made beam (also with zinc on it). I have to make this before the 80x80x4 square pipe is welded in to place though it also must be welded in to the beam.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Looks good, we replaced the rocker panel on BRD HNTR's Tracker with 2x4 square stock and it has held up pretty well.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/8282009124124a611.jpg)
Here's the square pipe welded in to place. This is after I formed the ends and closed them with some sheet metal, lead filling and grinding/sanding and zink.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/68200942639PMb9b7.jpg)
The floor was rusted out so I had to fabricate a new one.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/98200912536PM42aa.jpg)
It should also look nice from the underside. Here you can see the rocker, beam and floor from an underside view. Zinked and painted.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/4c200912641PM774d.jpg)
The floor and rocker seen from back to front.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/65200912610PM6cb1.jpg)
And here's the rocker from underside in a view from front to back. As you can see there's also rust in the floor under the seat so it has to be done something about that. Also the beam under seat isn't what it should be.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/d6200912736PMa29b.jpg)
Floor and beam under the seat must be rebuilt.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/9672009105049a51b.jpg)
So I fixed the floor under the seat.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/998200952321Pe26d.jpg)
And this is rebuilt floor and beam from underside view.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/b98200952159P03f6.jpg)
Final result floor rebuild with paint on
(http://forumbilder.se/images/708200952238Pd1d0.jpg)
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Once again Carl, very nice work! Your doing a great job bringing that rig back to life.
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Both doors are totaly rusted out. Was very lucky because I could buy three doors for 150 kronor (that is about 20 dollars). It's one left door and two right doors. The right door is ok when it comes to rust but have a lot of dents (is that correct english for damages in sheet metal?). One of the left doors has rust in the buttom and the other one is a half done safari door. I'm going to do one left door of the two.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/59200912804PM25b0.jpg)
So this is the old right door. Rusted out in the buttom and fixed on the outside with textile sacks and polyester filler. So I'm going to replace it with the "new" right door after I've pulled out the dents on it.
(Please correct my english if I'm using wrong words or very bad grammar.)
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/a80200931837Pd3dc.jpg)
The only rust I found on the left replacement door was under attachment for the hinge.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/a10200931915P483e.jpg)
So I started with fixing that. With some lead this is going to be invisible :)
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/bf0200931950Pe32f.jpg)
Next was pulling out the dents. After that some shrinking and straightening of sheet metal. Some lead, grinding and sanding will finish the job.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/7e0200932028P6b36.jpg)
The result. I'm not so happy with the profile near buttom. It's not as straight as I want it to be. I have to fix that in the final preparation for paintwork.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/421200944904P2b1c.jpg)
I was a bit surprised that the replacement door didn't fit directly. I did spend almost an hour for adjustments.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Quality work as always. Nice job pulling the dents out of the door. :)
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Amazing work, not too many guys left that can do real body work.
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Thanx for all your positive feedback bentparts, Drone637 and TopHeavy96. I hope that you also will tell me if I do something that is not so good :)
I'm now continuing with the left side. That is even worse then the right side.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/b78200952356P2f78.jpg)
Not so much left of the fender :(
(http://forumbilder.se/images/8a8200952435P0cf8.jpg)
From here you can easily see the street from inside.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/c02200924228P2111.jpg)
So I started with welding the inner fender and the bottom front corner.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/664200951042P92e5.jpg)
It's not so good under the fender in front of the door either. On this side I have to fabricate a new peace for the fender under the hinge.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/f44200951139Pdaa5.jpg)
Like this.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/654200951210Pb088.jpg)
Welded in position.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/424200951244P844c.jpg)
My hammer set for sheet metal :)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/a45200915331Pe795.jpg)
More sheet metal in place on fender.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/0f6200932102P0f33.jpg)
This is a paper template for the strip that the fender flare is going to be attached to.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/126200932201Pe13f.jpg)
Fender completed with zink on.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/906200932239P97ae.jpg)
As said I had to do a big repair behind the fender infront of the door.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/216200932312P5d06.jpg)
Next was to prepair the 80x80x4 square pipe to become a new rocker.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/a6200962415PMc674.jpg)
The new rocker welded in place and everything is repaired behind the fender. Also the firewall. In fact I'm a little bit pleased with the result with this side myself :)
Hope you like it.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Hmm... No comments since last time. Maybe you are tired of looking at pictures of rust repairs? ;)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/03200912922PM4d27.jpg)
Here most of it is prepared for 2K epoxi primer.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/4a200913032PMa5a7.jpg)
Was a lot of rust in the left corner under the window frame. I'm not very pleased with the repair of it. Was very late when I welded this so I was tired. I should have stop working with the jig some hours earlier. But I'm not going to redo it. So I will fix my mistakes with lead.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/92200910308PM9e90.jpg)
Like this.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/6f200910337PM6873.jpg)
Fender in place.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/c0200993514AM600a.jpg)
This is the machine that has been used for doing the "profiles" on the fender sheet metal.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/3d0200971457P3598.jpg)
A view from front and underside. Here you can se thenew front beam for attaching the body I made. It's welded in to the rocker.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/070200971425P7991.jpg)
New made floor. I have manufactured tools for making these holes for water runoff from an old brake disc and some other scrap I found. :)
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/1f6200911020136c3.jpg)
Before and after pictures of floor on the driver side.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/f92200934237P8ef1.jpg)
The floor from an under view.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Hmm... No comments since last time. Maybe you are tired of looking at pictures of rust repairs? ;)
([url]http://forumbilder.se/images/03200912922PM4d27.jpg[/url])
Here most of it is prepared for 2K epoxi primer.
([url]http://forumbilder.se/images/4a200913032PMa5a7.jpg[/url])
Was a lot of rust in the left corner under the window frame. I'm not very pleased with the repair of it. Was very late when I welded this so I was tired. I should have stop working with the jig some hours earlier. But I'm not going to redo it. So I will fix my mistakes with lead.
I am still impressed with the work and skill you have been doing.
Sometimes during long term projects not a lot is commented on, but if you are watching the VIEWS on your link, numbers are increasing at a good rate showing a lot of interest. I am amazed at the Rust Buckets some of our members have revived you included, because here in the NW we can still find Samurai's with decent bodies at a modest price and sometimes great bargains. Your attention to detail and following factory placements for things like the drain holes, and floor strengthening depressions is awesome.
You must have a pretty good array of shop machinery to work with, and very good skill at using it and hand tools (from my viewpoint). I would be interested in your jig for the floor plan drain holes. One should be able to created something similar for use in a hydraulic press, vise or just a heavy hammer.
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I'm still reading with interest. Many people don't post but it looks like your number of views is still increasing.
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great work i enjoy your thread its the first thing i check. I'm in so. California so no rust here
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Yes, BRD HNTR, Rhinoman and losidriver2003, I can see that there is an interest for my little project, and that is nice. :) I think most of us that are publishing our projects in forums want to have feedback. That is a good way to learn from other people that have more knowledge and experience.
I wish we had more machinery in our shop BRD HNTR. As it is right now I often have to borrow equipment from friends or from my fathers friends. Often I have to spend to much time making temporary tools and solutions.
In Sweden salt is used on roads in wintertime to keep them clear from snow and ice. It's just in the very northern parts of the country salt isn't used (because it's pointless though it is to cold there in winters). That means that some cars made before middle nineteens, before they started putting zink all over car bodys, are often rusting as h*ll. I would say that japanese cars from these years rusted more than others (and Suzuki 4x4 like Vitara, Samurai, Sj410 and Sj413 from the eighties was some of the worst).
Back to my project ;)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/ea0200971638Pddee.jpg)
Also this side needed a brake makeover. So I did the same here as on right side.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/b90200971612P60c5.jpg)
And this is a sample what salt on roads in winters can result in. ::) This is the floor under driver seat from underside.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/772200935714P5a7a.jpg)
So next is to do something about the floor here and left rear bracket for the seat.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/dc6200982651P0728.jpg)
First I had to fix a rust hole in the inner back fender infront of the wheel. So here is a before and after picture...
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/206200982728Pb4b3.jpg)
Here bracket for the seat and floor along the rocker is repaired.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/dc2009105107P0c0f.jpg)
All rust on floor under driver seat fixed and painted.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/a00200911380518d0.jpg)
This part of the floor seen from underside back-to-front view...
(http://forumbilder.se/images/4702009113836cf82.jpg)
...and front-to-back view.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Amazing, that's all I can say. That is a REAL restoration you've got going on. I've seen 70 year old cars here that weren't as rusted out go to the scrappers. Your bringing that one back from the grave!
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Absolutely amazing work here Hannes! I had a good deal of rust to fix on my 96 tracker, I wish I had the skills and detail you have demonstrated in your build. When complete, it's going to be the nicest sammi in Sweden.
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Thank you bentparts and hegemon. Your kind feedback keeps me struggling :)
And the most amazing thing about it is that it has been used under 40 000 km and so rusted out. :o But as I said, it's cost was nearly nothing (that fits my economy) but my time is for free (and surplus sheet metal is cheap and sometimes for free). ::) Also the machinery in it is really ok. :)
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Vary nice! I wish I could do that to my 82 sj410 and 89 sidekick. but I'm not near as good as you, I'm just using aluminum to patch my floors/firewall.
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That is some great work.... My last vehicle was rusted (but not that bad) and she was sent to the scrap yard during the build of my current ride :'( But, I have no tools (or skills) to do something like that.
Zig
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Keep up the good work, nice to see the Sami spring back to life.
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Thanx for positive feedback Jordan, Zukipilot and grats :) I don't think the work is so good that Chip Foose will make a call but I'm satisfied with the results so far ;)
I sanded the hood free from all paint. The old black paint on the whole car was brushed and of a type that will dissolve under 2K paint. So that paint has to been taken of everywhere.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/f84200973501P5f1d.jpg)
Some welding in the front of the hood. Here with 2K epoxi primer (now I have bought a gray primer :) ).
(http://forumbilder.se/images/922009105031P56bb.jpg)
Also the front panel had a lot of rust so I sand blasted it. The "shining" parts you can see on it are weldings and grindings.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/f6200960752PM0de6.jpg)
Everything put together.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/10200960821PM36b0.jpg)
The original seats are not going to be used but I've mounted them temporarily just to make sure they fits after all work I've done with the floors and brackets.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Not only good work, but fast work too.
That hood looks good. I have some hood work I would like to have you do, but as shipping would kill me, I'll have to attempt myself.
Keep up the good work, I enjoy your build.
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I think BRD HNTR that it's a matter of self confidence to try. In my case I have nothing to lose if I want a useable zuki. Then it's just some common sense and to have access to people to ask (in forums and IRL). If it doesn't get perfect at first attempt it's just to do it again and do it correctly. ;) This is my first own big project but I've helped my father and learned in his projects. That of course helps...
Kind regards from
Hannes
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Yes Carl don't lose faith. You may not see a lot or replies but a lot of people are reading it...I am too! I think body work is just about the only thing I'm afraid of trying to do myself...but you're not only doing it, you're doing it right, and dealing with a huge rust problem too!
Good job
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I really appreciates djlantis57, that all people here in the forum are so kind and encouraging. Body Work is nothing to be afraid of and as everything else it's a matter of getting started and practice.
As I said in a previous post, I bought three really cheap doors. Two left doors have to be one.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/10200960850PM17c6.jpg)
This left door is ok except for rust in the bottom.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/9f200960930PM6902.jpg)
This is a half done half door that has a good bottom. This door is the donor for the bottom transplantation. ;)
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I am absolutely amazed at the quality of work. I had a samurai from Alberta (I live in Southern British Columbia) and rather than do body work, I had my father bring a new body up from Arizona. Our roads get a lot of salt here in Canada, too, and within four years the fenders were starting to rust, even with constant washing. The body on my 90 tracker is toast as well, so i am just replacing it as well. Keep up the good work. Your english is quite good. It's nice to read english without lots of slang!
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Thanx danycat for your feedback. We are learning english in school from the age of seven in Sweden. That is typical english oxford-english. In Sweden we have no dubbing of sound on english speaking movies or tv shows as in many other european countrys. More than 50% of tv time is english speaking with swedish text translation (on swedish TV channels and then we have all the 100 % english speaking channels on cable or satelite). So we get a lot of practice. :) But still... english is not my first language, that is swedish. So sometimes this is not so easy...
Back to what to do....
I have to do the cuts exactly the same on both doors so that the donor bottom fits. Then remove some spot welds and open the foldnings in the edges (see the drawing below).
(http://forumbilder.se/images/69201042332PM9c79.jpg)
Kind regards from
Hannes
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wow.....very dedicated and impressive.
what are the yellow,green and red switches in side the cabin? please explain and show better pics please. (even in a pm if you don't want to sidetrack your post) thanks ~Jared 8)
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Nice work as always. How much of the donor door are you going to cut off?
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I did like this, Drone637.
I made a paper template that I used for marking and cutting out on both doors.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/24200994123PM01d4.jpg)
This is the door with the piece from the donor door that is cut exactly to fit. As you can see I have opened the folding in the edges.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/c4200994156PM0b4c.jpg)
The piece in place fasten with some spot welds. I have also folded back the outer panel over the inner panel.
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(http://forumbilder.se/images/7b200994239PM4a6f.jpg)
Then I finshed up the welding and grinded it.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/59200994315PMa4f2.jpg)
After some lead, sanding and zink I painted it with primer. That was about three hours work.
Kind regards from
Hannes
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That looks good. I noticed on my SJ-410 that with the older window felts water was able to get inside the door and was sloshing around. I drilled a couple of holes in the bottom of the door to give the water a way to drain out to help stop it from rusting in the future.
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Yes Drone637, drain holes in the doors are important especially when driving in the terrain. I have done this to make it look like stock. The oblong holes is original for that purpose. The small holes is for fastening of the rubber.
I'm comming back to you Jluck in a later post about the colored switches inside the cabin. :)
(http://forumbilder.se/images/b332009111354e025.jpg)
After some adjustments the door is in place.
(http://forumbilder.se/images/b7320091115457f1e.jpg)
This is how the jig looks like at this stage. As you can see the window frame is totaly rusted out. Also the window has a crack. I'm trying to get a used cheap frame with an unspoild window. To much job to fix it (even for me :) )
Kind regards from
Hannes
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I didn't even notice the oblong holes down at the bottom. Nice work!
I recently replaced my Windshield frame as well, the old one had been slid into a few trees by someone and broken off twice causing the windshield to be destroyed. No idea how that could have happened. :D
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lets see some more.....`ya are not grounded are you? :P don't forget about the cabin switches too. thanks
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I've really enjoyed following your build hope to see some more of your work.
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;) Kid's got skills.
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Where have you gone Hannes? I want to see more of your fine craftsmanship. Your thread has been quite educational. thanks c