ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: hcgalvin on June 24, 2004, 07:10:24 AM
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Just what the title says,
Can you put a 16 valve head on an 8 valve block?
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As a paper weight? Sure why not?
I'd compare head gaskets just to see if the passages match up. Then make sure the passage in the block is the same type of passage in the head....:-/
Probably no help at allllllll
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You would need to change the pistons.
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Wild and I picked up a 16V motor this week from a local yard. I asked him if he could use the 16V head on his 8V motor. I think he said the same as above, the pitstons are different :P I'm sure he will chime in below with much more detail. ;)
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The pistons are totally different. Why not ask a local guru? The pistons have a flycut for each valve. The 16v obviously has a cut for each of the 4 valves, the 8v has a cut for each of the 2 valves. The 16v block is interchangeable either way, but the 8v is only able to accept to the 8v head. Sorry. :(
Also the crank is not interchangeable. The reason for that one is the 16v has bigger counterweights than the 8v. The 16v block is clearanced for the bigger weights, and the crank is a better design and material.
Why are you wanting to know about the 8v block theory?? The one you got, got a problem?? ???
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OK, I had to chime in ;D
The 16V pistons do have cuts for the valves, but
the 8V pistons have dishes to lower compression, (not cuts Idaho)
I think the 16V Combustion chamber is larger due
to the shape required to fit 4 valves in there, so with
the low compression pistons, and a lower CR with the
16V head makes a better turbo engine ;D
You had to know it was heading that way, I mean what
else would I do ???
Yes the crank is counterweighted better, but I don't think
that would affect the block any/much and if it did, it's not
a difficult job to clearance a block, I mean it's aluminum
and not hard to cut.
The block on this 96' has a different shape oil pan for the
Crank Position Sensor, the only thing I can see that is different,
as soon as I get the head off I'll take a look at the CC and
pistons and I'll let you know what I think/find
Wild
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The bottom of the cylinder walls are steel, that is the main thing that is clearanced. There is a big difference in the counterweight size.
And yes, I kinda figured you, of all people, would go there! ;D
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Well if the bottom of the cylinder walls are
clearanced, then the pistons have to be the
same or they would hit (the counter weights are
up when the piston is down) so there might be
more than block clearance needed, cut/shaved
piston skirts will mean the pistons will be lighter
(I like short skirts ;) ) Hmm..... nothing I can't
work with
Wild
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It's not the skirts, it's the cylinder walls that are clearanced.
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"so there might be more than block clearance needed"
Most engines, the piston skirt drops below the bottom
of the cylinder, unless the skirt on the piston is already
clearanced enough, it will need additional matierial removed.
Wild
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This sounds interesting, and has been something I've pondered about for a while. Let us know what ya find, Wild (with pics plz ;D)!
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We've had the head off of the 16v motor, and the only thing I can really see that might pose a problem, is that the pistons on the 16v block are clearanced for the valves (4 valves per piston). I don't know if the 8 valve block is going to have enough clearance. Let me know what you find out Wild!
(http://www.whitepineclub.com/members/kd7hcg/pictures/otherpics/16vblock.jpg)
(You knew I'd take a picture, didn't ya.)
Heather
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"so there might be more than block clearance needed"
Most engines, the piston skirt drops below the bottom
of the cylinder, unless the skirt on the piston is already
clearanced enough, it will need additional matierial removed.
Wild
The counterweights are wider and a little taller than the 8v weights. I have seen it done before, a local engine rebuilder screwed up, and he had to clearance the piss out of the bottom of the cylinder walls and the block material nearby.
And I told you there were valve reliefs on the 16v pistons! 8)
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The 16V pistons do have cuts for the valves, but
the 8V pistons have dishes to lower compression, (not cuts Idaho)
I know, I agreed with you on that, but 8V are not cut
Now I have a good look at Heathers (tks) I see that the
dishes are in the 16V pistons too :P That might mess
up what I had planned, We'll see
Wild
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We've had the head off of the 16v motor, and the only thing I can really see that might pose a problem, is that the pistons on the 16v block are clearanced for the valves (4 valves per piston). I don't know if the 8 valve block is going to have enough clearance. Let me know what you find out Wild!
([url]http://www.whitepineclub.com/members/kd7hcg/pictures/otherpics/16vblock.jpg[/url])
(You knew I'd take a picture, didn't ya.)
Heather
AHhh I see your Problem ......... That Orange FRAM
Oil Filter, >:( And after that whole long filter and oil thread
Wild ;)
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She bought it with a bad head gasket.
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Just to mention guys, this has been one of the most interesting threads I've read so far oddly enough... and I don't normally like the technical jabberwalkie. Hey, by the way, how do I know if I have a 16v or an 8v?? Yes, as I've mentioned before, I'm retarded with this stuff.
steveo
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Easily answered. If your engine has a steel valve cover and the spark plugs go in through the side above the exhaust manifold, you have an 8 valve.
If the valve cover is aluminum and the spark plugs go in from the top of the cover, it's a 16 valve.
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Bah, it looks like I got an 8v.... thanks for the quick reply, just wonder though, should I be sad at this or happy? :-/
steveo
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how do I know if I have a 16v or an 8v?? Yes, as I've mentioned before, I'm retarded with this stuff.
steveo
Well what Idaho said, and the big "16 VALVE" cast into the top
and on the Cam Cover ;)
Wild
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Bah, it looks like I got an 8v.... thanks for the quick reply, just wonder though, should I be sad at this or happy? :-/
steveo
Obviously the 16v would have been nicer, but the 8v works just fine with a couple of tweaks.
Such as, a header, 2-2.5" exhaust, a K&N air filter, a hotter coil like the MSD Blaster2, and good spark plugs and wires.
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a hotter coil like the MSD Blaster2
Filter and exhaust I can do... what about a coil...whats that??
steveo
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On the distributor cap you have 5 wires, right? Well the 4 in the outter pattern go to the spark plugs. The one in the center goes to the ignition coil on the firewall. The coil is what makes the spark that the distributor sends to each spark plug. The stock 8v coil I think puts out about 15-25,000 volts. The MSD Blaster2 puts out like 40-45,000 volts. You get a cleaner burning more consistant running engine. The hotter coil really helps at lower RPMs and also at higher RPMs on the freeway.
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The stock 8v coil I think puts out about 15-25,000 volts. The MSD Blaster2 puts out like 40-45,000 volts. You get a cleaner burning more consistant running engine. The hotter coil really helps at lower RPMs and also at higher RPMs on the freeway.
Holy JEBUS! I had no idea that stuff like that was out there!!! Any other surprises for me?? I think I'll get one of those new coils A-sap! Thanks for the info! How much does one run ya?
By the way, I've noticed that you can swap the engine in Sidekicks from other posts and posts like this, so what options does a guy like me have? There are cheap wrecks all over Grande Praire, so I can find just about anything!
steveo
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How hard are aftermarket coils to wire in?
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Coils are pretty straight forward to wire in. The esiest way to wire one in, if you have the screw terminal version, is look at the factory coil top, I think it is marked with a + sign on one side, the aftermarket coil does too, just unscrew the nuts from the coil, pull off the ring connectors and transfer them over to the new coil and reassemble. Put the new coil into the old coil bracket, you might have to use a small thin strip of rubber to help fill in the extra room in the coil braket, and put it back on the truck. You're done. Start and enjoy.
But, if you have the square style coil, I'll have to get back to you on the wire up.