ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: trialspro on June 24, 2004, 06:42:48 PM
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hey guys, a fellow samurai owner has made up a couple bars that bolt from one shock mount to another, and have new mounts welded in the center... making it a very easy bolt on to inboard the shocks with..
he gave me one, im deciding if i should use it
for flex it would be much better of course, but will it ride worse or function properly when driving normally?
anyone ever done this?
any other better ideas? cause i think my stock shocks are limiting me with flex.
i have a 5inch spoa btw
thanks, Andrew
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Shocks operate best in the direction of the movement. Meaning that if the movement is directly vertical up/down, then the best mounting choice would be vertically. However, most suspensions don't operate this way do to the geometry design of the suspension and the movement of the axles.
For a Sami, moving the shocks inboard is putting lesser function in the shock so a real stiff shock may feel like a better ride.
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You will love the flex and the ride, it softens the valving. But you will notice a little more body roll around corners. But it's not so bad you can't live with it. Just don't inboard the rear springs, the handling just sucks bad!
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inboarding the rear shocks allows you to use a longer shock aswell ;D
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...  But you will notice a little more body roll around corners. But it's not so bad you can't live with it...
Lies, all a pack of filthy lies.
You'll notice a HUGE increase in body roll.
Do you like to drive corners AT or below the speed limit?
I like to at least drive them at the posted cornering speed limits. ÂÂ
Inboarding them would prevent this.  I've trialed with Kimball plenty of times and can directly attest to the fact that ever since he inboarded his shocks he can't corner at posted limits.
Sorry Kimmy.
~Nate
P.S. Isn't that what your mom calls you?
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Sorry Kimmy.
~Nate
P.S.  Isn't that what your mom calls you?
:P ::) ;D
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lol damn, mixed reviews...
i think im running the stock height shock for the sami, so just buying one thats 5inches longer to fit the lift should help a lot i guess
what limits most of you with flex? springs, shocks... fenders ;D?
cause with the proper size shocks for the lift it may solve the problem
i wouldnt think the spring could flex too much more, theyre pretty short
Andrew
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i run my 413 with long inboarded shocks,with lift springs (rears up front) and terraflex hypershackles front and rear,plus lockrights. 31 10.5s and mine goes round corners no problem.its my daily driver and i love it!!!! ;D ;D ;D
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sway bars with disconnects?
stu
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Lies, all a pack of filthy lies.
You'll notice a HUGE increase in body roll.
Do you like to drive corners AT or below the speed limit?
I like to at least drive them at the posted cornering speed limits. ÂÂ
Inboarding them would prevent this.  I've trialed with Kimball plenty of times and can directly attest to the fact that ever since he inboarded his shocks he can't corner at posted limits.
Sorry Kimmy.
~Nate
P.S.  Isn't that what your mom calls you?
I inboarded my springs, not my shocks. Then I re-outboarded the springs and noticed no loss of flex with dramatically improved stability over inboard. That is why I said to avoid inboarding the SPRINGS. Inboarding the shocks within reason would be fine.
I'v known a few people over the last few years that have inboarded their rear shocks to different degrees with various results. Anywhere from softer and a little body roll, to too much body roll and almost invisible shocks....like the they weren't even there.
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Here is a quote from Brent at Trail Tough. This is some excellent info ;)
There are some very important elements to consider when selecting and mounting shocks. Shock placement affects much more than just up and down motion of the chassis in relation to the axle. For this reason, on spring over applications we do NOT suggest leaning the tops of the rear shocks toward the center of the chassis. Firstly, leaning the shocks into the center of the vehicle is completely unnecessary and will not improve travel. What it DOES do, however, is place your chassis upon a peak at its center (like a teeter-totter) therefore, no side-to-side body roll or cornering oscillation can be effectively dampened ie; the weeble-wobble effect on uneven road surfaces. Secondly, most off-the-shelf shocks are valved 30% compression and 70% extension. This is why they should not be mounted on the FRONT of the rear axle housing where axle wrap compresses them with very little resistance or dampening as opposed to being mounted on the REAR of the axle housing where axle wrap creates EXTENSION of the shock and dampens some axle wrap motion. We would suggest mounting the shocks on the rear on the original upper mounts and mounting the bottom of the shocks about 1" to 1 1/2" in from the inner u-bolts and at the bottom level of the axle tube with about 2" to 2 1/2" of up travel. Contrary to popular understanding, this in NO WAY limits wheel travel in this circumstance and here inlies the reason we choose to use the Doetsch Tech 8000 Prerunner shock - which come with built-in bump stops right on the shaft. How this works is when a wheel is driven up onto an obstacle (remember that the wheel travels much more than the shock) the shock bottoms out on the bump stop. However, the wheel continues upward - the axle simply cantilevers around the shock and bump stop - and forces the downside wheel down. Therefore, the weight of the body and chassis is transferred more evenly toward the downside wheel providing much more balance and even tire contact pressure. When shocks and placement are not tuned in this way, the downside wheel simply hangs of its own weight less the resistance of the bowed spring instead of actually FORCING the downside spring to be bowed and the tire to be pressed on the ground. These same forces apply to the front as well. The front generally has MORE wheel travel than the rear. Therefore, shock placement on the front will be a little different than the rear. The upper shock mounts should be as high as possible in the front wheel well. (We cut off the original upper mounts and use the Ford-type shock towers to achieve this). The lower front shock mounts should be on the top of the axle housing - about 1/2" in from the weld that attaches the knuckle ball to the axle tube. It also helps to have the shock eye approximately 1 1/2" toward the back of the axle tube. This configuration keeps the shock from colliding with the spring and ubolt plate when the axle is at full twist - as would take place if the shock was mounted below the axle housing. Again, the shock length should be tuned so that there is approximately 2" to 2 1/2" between the shock bump stop and shock body when the vehicle is sitting flat on its own weight. Tune your shocks correctly in this way and you will end up with shock travel left over at full droop. Better balance, better traction, and fewer broken axles!