ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: mboy1981 on September 17, 2010, 02:19:54 PM
-
I have a 1990 tracker with the 6in calmini lift, rugged ridge hubs,31/11.50/15 super swamper ltbs. any time I get on it a little I snap the right front cv axle,anybody else ever run into this? ??? ???
-
I have a 1990 tracker with the 6in calmini lift, rugged ridge hubs,31/11.50/15 super swamper ltbs. any time I get on it a little I snap the right front cv axle,anybody else ever run into this? ??? ???
Things that come to mind are: did you modify the kit to get more droop?, did you use the diff drop brackets and if so, did you heat and beat the crossmember so that the diff doesn't hit it?, is your center diff broken maybe a little?
One thing that you can do is upgrade to 26 spline axles that are in 96-98 Sidekicks. Also, you can get a steel center section and 3rd member from a manual transmission GV or XL7 to add even more strength.
Hope that helps... -Eric
-
When you say right front CV axle, you mean the outer part, the CV part
not the inner stub shaft, right?
If so the CV angle is too steep, the inner axle can only take a max of 20*
and that's pushing it.
Did you do a strut mount flip? if so, undo it, that's too much drop
Wild
-
nothing on the lift is modified, I did not modify the crossmember, the inner loint on the cv shaft is what is seperating
-
Ya, I had the same trouble with my home brew lift. Did you change out the cup CV (passenger side in US)
to a flange? is that the side that is separating? as you did not specify tho I realize it could be both.
I added a spacer to my drivers side, but I also have the Hagen widening mod, so that created the problem,
have you done that mod too???
I had trouble with the balls in the CV pulling the shaft on the pass side, and the bearings ride on the wire retainer
ring to the point that it gets all bent and won't go back in if removed.
I ended up building an extended cup on the one side and a 1" spacer on the other, but have since gone to
a single CV shaft, (flanged both sides) and a GV long side axle shaft which is slightly longer than the OE shaft
so the spacer is only like 1/2" now.
Wild
-
it is the rightside(passenger) shaft, what it is doing is over extending the shaft and seperating it at the axle housing side. I thought about cutting the shaft and sleeving it but I dont know how smatr that would be
-
That wouldn't work, there is no room and it wold be too weak anyway.
You need a modified cup CV joint or to replace the cup with a flange
and run 2 driver side CV shafts, that should fix your trouble
Wild
-
That wouldn't work, there is no room and it wold be too weak anyway.
You need a modified cup CV joint or to replace the cup with a flange
and run 2 driver side CV shafts, that should fix your trouble
Wild
how do I make it run 2 driver side shafts, and can I buy a modified cup cv shaft. I just went out and opened the cv boot and only 1/8 inch if the shaft is in the cup
-
To run two driver side shafts you have to cut the cup off and weld on a
flange from a broken long side axle, or sacrifice a good axle for the flange.
The other method would to be, cut the cup off, add a section of the same
dia. heavy wall tubing like DOM, and weld the cup to the end of the tubing,
this gives you the CV range of motion you want and need
Wild
-
"The other method would to be, cut the cup off, add a section of the same
dia. heavy wall tubing like DOM, and weld the cup to the end of the tubing,
this gives you the CV range of motion you want and need"
Wild
[/quote]
any pics of this wild?
-
I'll look, but I don't know where it is
-
so does the flange on the housing just pop out on the driversside?
-
Yes, the flange side is the long side axle shaft, it goes all the way to
the center, all 1 piece, so you have to get a broken axle or sacrifice
an axle to get a flange.
Depending on the circle clip on the inside makes a difference of how
hard the axle shaft is to get out, the last one I removed wouldn't come
out until the clip broke in half after 30 min of beating on it, the best ones
pop out with a big flat screw driver, or a prybar and maybe a hammer whack
or 2
Wild
-
I know I am asking alot of questions, I have built several Jeeps however with the economy the way it is they are a little out of my range. I thought the tracker would be a more cost efficient toy.
-
Ehh, that's what the forum is for
;)
-
You need an ANVIL.
-
Hey Tim, long time no see you on here.
Where you been lurking or just busy?
Wild
-
.... did you heat and beat the crossmember so that the diff doesn't hit it?....
Hope that helps... -Eric
Sorry to jump in late on this thread. I haven't heard of this "Heat and Beat" ....are you talking about bending up the crossmember where the "3rd" member sits? Is this to increase clearance between the two?
how do I make it run 2 driver side shafts, and can I buy a modified cup cv shaft. I just went out and opened the cv boot and only 1/8 inch if the shaft is in the cup
Hagen Documented the widening and the use of "2" driver side CVs here.
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm (http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm)
I think that would solve your problem, like Wild suggested.
any pics of this wild?
Wild show it off in another thread. Basically he lengthened the inner cup, to allow the CV range to be more acceptable. This is different from using "2" driver side axles as linked above......I've seen before....took awhile to dig.....
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/hagan-widening/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/hagan-widening/)
pic from that thread is below.
(http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/suzuki01.jpg)
So about this "Heat and Beat"....