ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Mikerpm4x4 on May 12, 2004, 11:57:12 AM
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(http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/Ssideby.jpg)
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(http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/Sstan37.jpg)
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(http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/Sunder.jpg)
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ITS HUGE!!! ;D ;D ;D first personne on 38's wins a mystery prize!!!! :P :P :D :D
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ENGINE
Type: 16 valve 1.6 liter stock
Aspiration: 2 inch cat back (not finished)
DRIVETRAIN
Transmission: 5 speed
Transfer Case: 4.23 to 1 Calmini Rockcrawler
SUSPENSION
Front: Calmini 3 inch widened 2 inches and modified to 5 inches of lift
Rear: Calmini 3 inch modified to 5 inch lift - long rear arms Shocks: Rear: 11 inch travel Rancho / Front Old Man Emu
AXLES/DIFFERENTIALS
Front:Center mount Ford nine inch with Detroit locker
Toyota PU cv shafts.
Rear: Ford 9 inch ? spool - 31 spline
Ring-and-Pinion: 6.50 to 1
WHEELS AND TIRES
Wheels: 15x10 American Racing Chrome
Tires: 37-12.50-15 Goodyear MTRs
OTHER MODS
There are many. here is a short list of mods
Homemade front and rear bumpers with line X coating
Toyota 4x4 Van knuckles with dual piston calipers
Calmini idler brace
Rear: disc rotors from front Tracker / calipers from rear Saturn / working parking brake
Roll Cage
Rocker skids connecting to a Full Belly Pan (still being built)
4" gas tank lift
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it almost makes me sad that i'm only rolling on 34s. its a bad bad day in VT. :'( you have any more info on the front 9in?
stu
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you have any more info on the front 9in?
stu
Its a totally custom one off unit. Lots a machining ... and thought, went into it. Not something that would be very easy to do much less explain.
Mike
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ENGINE
Type: 16 valve 1.6 liter stock
Aspiration: 2 inch cat back (not finished)
DRIVETRAIN
Transmission: 5 speed
Transfer Case: 4.23 to 1 Calmini Rockcrawler
SUSPENSION
Front: Calmini 3 inch widened 2 inches and modified to 5 inches of lift
Rear: Calmini 3 inch modified to 5 inch lift - long rear arms                    Shocks: Rear:  11 inch travel Rancho / Front Old Man Emu
AXLES/DIFFERENTIALS
Front:Center mount Ford nine inch with Detroit locker
Toyota PU cv shafts.
Rear: Ford 9 inch ? spool - 31 spline
Ring-and-Pinion: 6.50 to 1
WHEELS AND TIRES
Wheels: 15x10 American Racing Chrome
Tires: 37-12.50-15 Goodyear MTRs
OTHER MODS
There are many. here is a short list of mods
Homemade front and rear bumpers with line X coating
Toyota 4x4 Van knuckles with dual piston calipers
Calmini idler brace
Rear: disc rotors from front Tracker / calipers from rear Saturn / working parking brake
Roll Cage
Rocker skids connecting to a Full Belly Pan (still being built)
4" gas tank lift
Hey Mike,
Looks nice. Is the upper 3-link on the rear stock Calmini?
-Eric
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That's kinda what I was contemplating doing... modifying the Calmini lift from 3" to around 7-8" so I could remove my body lift... Looks like this guy knows what he's doing though, as I'll never do that. Plus, the 9" diffs must rock! :o
edit: It also doesn't look like it's sitting much higher than your rig, Mike...
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The Trackick looks GREAT!
Do you have any pics of the belly pan/rocker sliders?I would like to add a belly pan a rocker sliders...I'm looking for ideas.
Did you drop the front diff to add more lift to the IFS?
Rod
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Hey Mike,
Looks nice. Is the upper 3-link on the rear stock Calmini?
-Eric
No he made a longer one and painted it to match the kit.
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That's kinda what I was contemplating doing... modifying the Calmini lift from 3" to around 7-8" so I could remove my body lift... Looks like this guy knows what he's doing though, as I'll never do that. Plus, the 9" diffs must rock! :o
edit: It also doesn't look like it's sitting much higher than your rig, Mike...
7 or 8 inches! :o That would take some serios fab work. His rig does sit around 2 inches higher than mine. Our suspension is very similar. most of the height difference is in the tires.
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The Trackick looks GREAT!
Do you have any pics of the belly pan/rocker sliders?I would like to add a belly pan a rocker sliders...I'm looking for ideas.
Did you drop the front diff to add more lift to the IFS?
Rod
This isnt my rig. Its a friend's. I probabally have a pic of my bellypan around here somewhere. As for the diff drop/ added suspension lift its pretty much all built from scratch.
Mike
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7 or 8 inches!  :o That would take some serios fab work.
Which is why I decided against it.
Originally I was thinking that it would be fairly simple and straightforward, then I started studying the front suspension stuffs, and realized that as soon as I started, I'd be way in over my head.
Which is why that guy's rig is so cool... but I imagine that he still has rubbing problems even with cut fenders/moved floorboards?
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([url]http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/Ssideby.jpg[/url])
SWEET LOOKING TRACKER......HE NEEDS A ZUKIWORLD WINDSHIELD DECAL.......STU, HE'S GOT YOUR HOOD SCOOP ;D........ MATTY 8)
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yea i saw that
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i seen that hood scoop today at no limit auto, (custom shop here in town) i shoudl seen the price, there cool, heh i think anyways.
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hey can u post some more pics of the suspinsion. if possible some measurements and possibly some geometry angles. if the pics r to big u can send them to tracker8wr2003|removethispart|@yahoo.com. any info u can provide would be very helpfull. i want to run 35" to 36" swampers.
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Your friend's Trackick looks great and the color clashing between the 2 in the pics is fantastic!!!
Notice his mirrors and door handles are painted to match, hummmm. Even the shadow flames.....
Anyways, from the pics, it looks like the body is lifted off the frame pretty good, that there is a custom front subframe which the Calmini arms bolt to, same on the custom 9" mount and running the 6.50's (real cool), then the rather large coil spacer on top of front coil, that there is a trailer plug above the rear axle, hard to tell if there is a slip in the rear ds, then steps on the faces of the bumpers.
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Since it's kinda related to this topic, I thought I'd ask ya a quick question, Mike: Do those Ford 9" rearends out of older Broncos have the same kind of flange that the stock tracker rear axle does? When you put your 9" rearend in, did you have to have a custom driveshaft made?
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It looks great 8) Good to see he got it done ;) Has he tried it out much to see how the Toy shafts will hold up to the 37's?
LAter,
Zig
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I like the strut brackets.
Always wondered how'd one could keep it align-able.
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it almost makes me sad that i'm only rolling on 34s. its a bad bad day in VT. :'( you have any more info on the front 9in?
stu
wat setup/suspension r u running ?? cuz the highes buyable i can think of is 6 clamini combo and 1.5 inch coil spacers with tirmming
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3 in body lift
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THATS IT????!!!! i thought u could only run like 30's!!!
dude get a 1.5 coil soacers and get like 35's!! or the vitar soring lift thing and run 37's!!
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well i have modded the sheat meatl as far as you can without building new body panels. and after a year of hard running the front springs are sagging bad so i did build some 1 1/2 coil spacers for the front. i would like to get the front end bullet proof before going any bigger. when its all said and done i would like to be running 35in boggers.
stu
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cool cool :)
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hey can u post some more pics of the suspinsion. if possible some measurements and possibly some geometry angles. if the pics r to big u can send them to tracker8wr2003|removethispart|@yahoo.com. any info u can provide would be very helpfull. i want to run 35" to 36" swampers.
Those are the only photos I have. Its not my rig. He lives about an hour away so I dont see him as often as I would like to. The front of the frame is completely custom. No stock control arm or diff brackets were used. This would be very difficult to explain.
To run 35s or 36s you will need to know how to do some pretty wild fabbing or some extensive trimming. 33s are a lot easier to run... not to mention all the axle components that would need to be upgraded to hold up.
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wat r u running? (i thought 35's)
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I am! I also have a lot of weird tweaks to make them fit.
Mike
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wierd tweaks? as in ( i dotn need details just have NO idea wat u r talking about...)
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To run 35s or 36s you will need to know how to do some pretty wild fabbing
Hmm .... Wild Fabrication, sounds like fun
;D
Wild
Ohh, I got the GIF animator, I was going to
mod the Mike Dude Gif, with hair ;)
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Well here is a quick rundown of my weird tweaks to fit 35s.
(1)I cut the lower control arm brackets and dropped them 1.5 inches.
(2)Then I added a 1.5 inch spacer to the coil
(3)Then I tapered the tie rod holes to the top and flipped them to the top of the knuckle, which is 1.5 inches, the reason I chose 1.5 on (1) and (2).
(4)Massive fender trimming
(5)Moved the floorboards back 2 inches
(6)Changed rear suspension angles to match also.
(1)+(2)+(3)+(4)+(5)+(6)=MAJOR PROJECT!!! ;D
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man if i only had money. it would be scary.
stu
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Well here is a quick rundown of my weird tweaks to fit 35s.
(1)I cut the lower control arm brackets and dropped them 1.5 inches.
(2)Then I added a 1.5 inch spacer to the coil
(3)Then I tapered the tie rod holes to the top and flipped them to the top of the knuckle, which is 1.5 inches, the reason I chose 1.5 on (1) and (2).
(4)Massive fender trimming
(5)Moved the floorboards back 2 inches
(6)Changed rear suspension angles to match also.
(1)+(2)+(3)+(4)+(5)+(6)=MAJOR PROJECT!!! ;D
21
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21
BLACK JACK ;D
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....snip....The front of the frame is completely custom.  No stock control arm or diff brackets were used. This would be very difficult to explain......snip.....
From that 3rd picture of looking forward from the rear axle, you can see the custom sub-frame locating the Calmini control arms. You can also see the massively tall coil spacer. As well as the longer outside lower control arms for the rear axle.
What is surprising, the stock setup of the rear ds is a slip at the output shaft of the t-case. When most other short wheelbase vehicles lift high, there is a vibration due to the amount of slip on the output shaft. Jeep/New Process has a stong following and thus aftermarket provides a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) kit for the t-case. I'm surprised the Suzuki market hasn't caught on with the same. One great benefit from a SYE is that you can remove the rear ds without loosing t-case fluid or getting crap into it.
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Well here is a quick rundown of my weird tweaks to fit 35s.
(1)I cut the lower control arm brackets and dropped them 1.5 inches.
(2)Then I added a 1.5 inch spacer to the coil
(3)Then I tapered the tie rod holes to the top and flipped them to the top of the knuckle, which is 1.5 inches, the reason I chose 1.5 on (1) and (2).
(4)Massive fender trimming
(5)Moved the floorboards back 2 inches
(6)Changed rear suspension angles to match also.
(1)+(2)+(3)+(4)+(5)+(6)=MAJOR PROJECT!!! ;D
I recall you stating something of a centered front diff setup. I would hather a wild hairas$ guess it was from this guys setup.
1. So now, you've done away with the stock rear front crossmember where you did the wider track mod and mod'd the stock front crossmember to accept drop brackets. You've added drop brackets for the lower control arms, sort of the kind of lift that ProComp had designed and that other guy on this list did in NC. (Sorry can't recall name but he used a section of another frame to do it.
Q1. If your buddy performed the center diff location, custom mount the 9" housing, custom mounted for lower control arms, why did he use the Calmini control arms vs making his own custom arms, making them longer in overall width length?
Making them longer provides better geometry throughout the suspension cycle. He could also match the steering tie rod length to match the length of the control arms. There is a lot more to this subject, but it appears I've written too much already.
Q3. Have you thought of using heim joints at the knuckles in place of the stock tie rods? Since you have offset rims to keep tires out farther, that stock bend in the link isn't really necessary.
Another front suspension question: If you've dropped the lower control arm with brackets, have added a 3" body lift, are you looking into adding a custom upper control arm to mount on top of the frame (working with the length of the Calmini arms), shape it to connect to the knuckle strut mount (or use an adapter between them) or would you suggest to keep the strut design setup to keep it simple?
Where are the pics? Are they going to come out in another month for Zukiworld?
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I think we need more detailed pics of the front end... this setup is really intriguing, and it's killing me not to be able to see it! >:( :( ;D
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There is some real custom spacing here,
similar to the mod I posted, look at the circled
section here at the strut mount
(http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/sunder0.jpg)
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that spacer is
HUGE
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Jeep/New Process has a stong following and thus aftermarket provides a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) kit for the t-case. I'm surprised the Suzuki market hasn't caught on with the same
I think you could do it yourself, the sami flange has the same spline count and "seal surface" as the tracker slip yoke, so it will slide right on and seal correctly. you would just have to tap the tracker output shafts so you can use a bolt to hold the sami flange on. It wouldnt even have to be a huge bolt, because of the slip yoke being on the drive shaft instead, there would not be much "pull" on the flange
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That or use a Kick flange, also
the front DS from a Sammy is
almost long enough, if you get one
and lengthen it, you got the slip
shaft and a cool easy custom SYE
Downside is the output of the T-case
is not tapped so a custom drill/tap job
is in order, not a biggie for me but some
guys are more intimidated by this stuff.
Wild
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Lotsa questions to answer, so I will cut and paste.
[I recall you stating something of a centered front diff setup. I would hather a wild hairas$ guess it was from this guys setup.]
Actually this was my Idea. I almost did it so I could run 6.50 gears, but decided to stick with the 7.5 for the ground clearance.
[1. So now, you've done away with the stock rear front crossmember where you did the wider track mod and mod'd the stock front crossmember to accept drop brackets. You've added drop brackets for the lower control arms, sort of the kind of lift that ProComp had designed and that other guy on this list did in NC. (Sorry can't recall name but he used a section of another frame to do it.]
I actually dropped the stock stuff rather than fab my own.
[Q1. If your buddy performed the center diff location, custom mount the 9" housing, custom mounted for lower control arms, why did he use the Calmini control arms vs making his own custom arms, making them longer in overall width length? Making them longer provides better geometry throughout the suspension cycle.]
He already had the Calmini lift in this rig before the mod. He is running toyota van balljoint , which widens it by 2 or 3 inches.
[He could also match the steering tie rod length to match the length of the control arms. There is a lot more to this subject, but it appears I've written too much already.]
He did.
[Q3. Have you thought of using heim joints at the knuckles in place of the stock tie rods? Since you have offset rims to keep tires out farther, that stock bend in the link isn't really necessary.]
He did. I chose not to. I dont see the need. I have had no problems with the stock tierods.
Another front suspension question: If you've dropped the lower control arm with brackets, have added a 3" body lift, are you looking into adding a custom upper control arm to mount on top of the frame (working with the length of the Calmini arms), shape it to connect to the knuckle strut mount (or use an adapter between them) or would you suggest to keep the strut design setup to keep it simple?
I like the simplicity and reliability of the strut.
Mike
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What is surprising, the stock setup of the rear ds is a slip at the output shaft of the t-case. When most other short wheelbase vehicles lift high, there is a vibration due to the amount of slip on the output shaft. Jeep/New Process has a stong following and thus aftermarket provides a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) kit for the t-case. I'm surprised the Suzuki market hasn't caught on with the same. One great benefit from a SYE is that you can remove the rear ds without loosing t-case fluid or getting crap into it.
I dont see the need. ??? I broke a rear link once and drove it several miles without a rear shaft. I didnt loose hardly any fluid. As far as drivelive vibration, I have none. If you overrotate the rearaxle and add a spacer, their is almost no angle at all.
Mike
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Thanks for answering the questions......
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Brought to the top for tracker8r
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([url]http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/Ssideby.jpg[/url])
WoW  :o  37's !!!   I'm looking at a 97 2dr 4wd...  Hmmm.
    I know the 4-door isn't done yet.  But a clean 2dr 4wd with ac is cool...
And you only added 1.5" to the lower arm mounts.  by comparison  My 4" drop on the 4-door is huge BUT I'm about 4+ years behind on the tweeks, and twist. ÂÂ
Custom arms, and steering are now a necessity. ÂÂ
Makes me want to go take another look at the 87 4-runner frame with complete running gear & IFS sitting out back.  Hmmmm.
Edit: I traded A sammy for a clean 2dr 4wd with AC.
Test fitting the 33 BFG AT's
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Spyphoto.jpg)