ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: jookycola on June 14, 2004, 10:45:44 AM
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well it's finally time.
next week i'm driving off to California for good, and i've done everything but change my timing belt. as strong as the tracker is running i doubt it really needs one right now but...just in case i have one handy and of course i'm NOT moving without my tools so i'll have my tools with me if i really need them.
however my question is, how difficult is it really. As i'm pretty familliar with Zuki engines, but i won't have anything fancy with me to test the timing belts tension and whatnot. basically i'll have the tools to get at it, remove the old one and put a new on, but not to sure if it's just that simple?
any help, tips? Tricks? Warnings?
1995 Tracker LSi
16v 4x4
2-door
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changing the cambelt is pretty straightforward.
http://www.e-toolbox.com/application/9088/9088.htm#essential.htm
go here and goto engine mechanical,then timing belt and pulleys for full info.
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it's pretty much that easy, just get familiar
with the timing marks so you can line them
up on the highway if needed, I have never
had one break and I have over 270,000 miles
of driving a Zuke, have a good trip, and check
in when you get here, where you coming to ??
I'm a Cal resident too
Wild
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if i buy a new motor then the first thing i do is change the cambelt.at the same time it gets plugs/oil/filter/tappets set.
if it throws a timing belt then the valves can bend.you dont want that.the belt is cheap,the job is easy,DO IT.
you get no warning when the belt goes.rubber stuff deteriorates with use and age.low mileage on an old belt dont mean sh*t.
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8 Valve engines don't bend valves,
but 16V engines do, good point
xamtex, you have a 16V you might
want to do the job where it's light and
the timing is right, not on some rainy
dark highway
Wild
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Yeah, he says 16V. (Thanks for the tip, Wild. I wondered about bending valves.)
BTW, you probably won't get any warning if it's gonna snap. If it does, you can count on it snapping on the FW, halfway up some hill, w/ no shoulder, semis blasting past, in the rain. (Weather is optional... snow/sleet/hail. The only chance of sunshine will be in Death Valley, 120 degrees & no water in sight.)
What will take you a few hours in your driveway will become a major prob. Oh, and you'll probably forget your 14mm socket, or something similar. ::)
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This is like a 1 hour do it project,
biggest PITA is the little hex wrench
crank pully bolts, looks like they switched
to different ones on the 94 I pulled a
head off of
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Yeah, Wild i talked to you a while back when this move was only in the planning stages. We'll be local, i'm going to be Anaheim, where i grew up and i also lived a good many years in Riverside. So basically i'll be passing right by you as i come through the desert on 15....or is that 215, jeez it's been a while.
and i'll just knock it out before i go, my biggest pain is i know nobody with a timing gun, and my moving buget is tight, so i can't splurge for a timing gun at the last minute, it's bad enough i desperately need an alignment done before i go at $40.
No doubt about how it suddenly becomes a worse scenario once on the road though (rain/sleet/hail/tornados) LOL.
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Would you need a timing light?
BTW, Wild is a lot better at this than I am. It took me about 4 hours to swap out mine the first time around. I found it handy to have a Sharpee marker & old butter tubs to keep the bolts sorted out. (Many are similar in size but different lengths.)
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Ya, you don't need a timing light, just
stop the motor, pull the fan, and shroud,
loosen the alt belt, and slip the belt off,
take off water pump pulley, and remove
the crank pulley, and then the cover, now
you can see the belt and tensioner, loosen
the tensioner, and slip off the belt, replace
with the new one, and re assemble. If you
think the tensioner is too tight remove the bolt
and slip the belt on, but what ever you do don't
move the engine when the belt is off, make sure
the belt is tight between cam and crank, put tensioner
back on
Not too bad
Good Luck
Wild
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and replace the waterpump. ;D
just easier with it already apart.
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I used a small mirror to get the socket on the bolts in the crankshaft pulley. PITA to see where you're putting it. Oh, and getting the nuts off the fan clutch was tedious, but the rest of the 16-valve belt R&R is pretty easy.
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Ah, I see how you get it done so quickly.
The book calls for loosening all the rocker arms and pulling the spark plus before pulling the belt.
After you put in the new belt (and adjusted the tensioner) it's a good idea to give the engine a couple spins... then recheck the tension. I'd also recommend some locktite on the tensioner pulley bolt. (Trust me, you don't want it coming loose later on.)
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??? I don't take off the valve cover to do
the Timing Belt, it's not in there, it's outside
Wild
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Personnally I always just take everything off the outside like the cover, fan and shroud, alternator belt, and power steering belt, and then just put the marks straight up with a socket and breaker bar before I take anything apart. It makes the job a lot fatser, safer, and easier.
I've done so many over the last few years that it only takes me about an hour and a half do to an 8v with power steering.
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???  I don't take off the valve cover to do
the Timing Belt, it's not in there, it's outside
Wild
Correct... it's not inside. I think they do those steps so that compression and/or valve springs don't move things around. (The other reason is to make it easier to manually revolve the engine... not really needed on the 4 banger.) It's always a good time to adjust the valves, though.