ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: fieroboy_gt on December 13, 2010, 09:31:08 AM
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I just bought a rust free sammi tub. Not sure of the year but i want to put it on my 88 fram an what not. How hard is somthing like that to do if u never done one. It also came with the fenders hood a new 3 inch body lift for only 200 dollars. Doors. Winsheild an what not. Its a steal of a deal.
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Let's be honest, it is a pain in the ass. Especially if you are swapping years or one tub is wire free. The easiest way to perform the swap is to pull your dash and all existing wiring then transplant it to your new tub. Trying to swap just 'what is needed' usually ends up in chasing down electrical gremlins.
You will probably want to pull your drive-train out as well.
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Yea i was planning on swapping out the dash an what not cause the tub is just that there is no interior one dash nothing there is no drive train an i would def swap that since my other one is lifted with the oldman emu spring lift has a spooled rear end , 8.1 transfer case gears . The only problem was rott. I was thinkin bout not even using the heater ducts an just makin my own heater core box out of some plywood an dryer hose just to make it easier. Cant wait to get this thing torn apart an what not. An put back together .
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Ok so i have started the tub swap . An i am looking at the electical an i was thinking what if i just cut the harness an lable it all then spliced it all together later an sealed it an what not with but connectors. Cut it on the engine side of the fire wall.lable everything an then splice it all together. I think it would be easyier then pulling the harness threw the fire wall. Whatcha think
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what would be the point of it? pull it through the wright way and no need to have electrical nightmares later. it would take alot longer to cut and splice than pull them through. I am not seeing a advantage what so ever to cutting.
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Ok so i have started the tub swap . An i am looking at the electical an i was thinking what if i just cut the harness an lable it all then spliced it all together later an sealed it an what not with but connectors. Cut it on the engine side of the fire wall.lable everything an then splice it all together. I think it would be easyier then pulling the harness threw the fire wall. Whatcha think
Honestly....stupid idea.
Pull the harness the right way. It isn't hard to do, especially if you have the dash out. The dash isn't hard to pull, if you don't have it out yet.
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Yea i got the dash out an i have the old clip an fenders off almost having a problem with the screws on the inside of the door james im jut gona sawzall them off or grin them off. But ill probable just lable everything an full it threw . Atleast u guys arent scared to call me a dumb ass ;D
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Operation tub swap is going im probably 1/4 of the way there. Got the engin all un hooked an the fenders an old clip off. Tomorrow after work im gonna get underneth an see what needs to be un hooked from there. Exhaust an what not. If anyone knows any thing that would be helpfull or use full just let me know. The harness was alot easyier then i had once thout it was gonna be. I dont even know if im gonna use the dash or not. I probably will but id rather just use a sheet metal skin ill get to that later. thinkin bout pulling the head while im here cause the motor smokes. The only problem is that the motor has great compresion 140 lbs across the board so im thinking the vavle seaps might be shoot on the head . Since the motor did sit for 5 years with out running. It runns great now just smokes :(
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More pics
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So its been a year an I just started finishing what I started . Nothing went the way I wanted but what ever did all the break lines an fiberglassed the body on the underside still got to do the fiberglass on the inside but it will be fine for now.so last weekend I started putting the new body on the frame stripped the frame of old breaks an fuel lines an ran new break lines. I'm not running any new fuel lines since my old tank rotted an I'm just gonna put a fuel cell in behind the drivers seat.. so I'm thinking I can eliminate the charcoal canister an all the other vapor lines an what not. I bought a set of the rockyroad poly mounts but decided not to use them an I just did a 2 inch body lift instead. So if u guys know any one who needs a poly kit I'm looking to trade an add cash for a top looking for either the wind hammer an taho cover. Or a sprinter top. I'd really like a removable hard top but I can't find one anywhere. But any way some pictures
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An more
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It's coming along!
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Operation tub swap is going im probably 1/4 of the way there. Got the engin all un hooked an the fenders an old clip off. Tomorrow after work im gonna get underneth an see what needs to be un hooked from there. Exhaust an what not. If anyone knows any thing that would be helpfull or use full just let me know. The harness was alot easyier then i had once thout it was gonna be. I dont even know if im gonna use the dash or not. I probably will but id rather just use a sheet metal skin ill get to that later. thinkin bout pulling the head while im here cause the motor smokes. The only problem is that the motor has great compresion 140 lbs across the board so im thinking the vavle seaps might be shoot on the head . Since the motor did sit for 5 years with out running. It runns great now just smokes :(
I too have 140 psi comperssion on all 4 cylenders. But what Im told from several shops (T.T. included) is that avrage is 170 psi! & anything under 150 means your motor needs rebuilt.........
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Holy shnikies batman, I got all the harness hooked up now to the best of my memory an notes an tape clusters an markings. Before I do dash an interior an what notim gonna try an start it. If its all the way it was last year it should start just fine. I'm using a boat fuel cell for the time being so I'm thinking I just need one fuel line an I should be able to plug the rest off if I'm not mistaken . It is a self venting fuel cell. So with that being said do I need the charcoal canister at all ?. I'm also eliminating the old heater system. I'm not sure exactly what I'm gonna do . For now I'm just gonna loop it threw the body with hose an coper tube. I'll figure out heat at another time case it def will be needed.ill probably just make a sheetmetal box with a hole on it an run a heatercore threw it an use a GM mouse wheel there very cheap an blow like a bastard. All well. Just got to Roy le check grounds an wire in the lights front and back. Also need a distributed cap. But its like 70 % probably. But here's some pictures I like the stance it has . I think I could run 32 inch tires .I have 30 right now an the other picture is a question really. Do I need these for it to run. One is the.charcoal can . Idk what the other is.
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The way it sits
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Which carb are you using?
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Weeber
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Here's exact model.
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Success hooked her up an she fired up. Had a super high idel at first but then I figured out the pedals bolt needed to be removed. Also drove it around my yard today. So now all that's left to do is hook up all the wiring for the lights . I'm super happy . Here's a question for u people on the ba k of my instrument gauge there's a google switch was wondering if u guys might know what it is for . Also had to cut some of the sheet metal in front of the transfer case shifter case it wouldn't go forward enough to get in to two wheel drive .
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Here's a question for u people on the ba k of my instrument gauge there's a google switch was wondering if u guys might know what it is for . Also had to cut some of the sheet metal in front of the transfer case shifter case it wouldn't go forward enough to get in to two wheel drive .
The toggle switch is for turning off the check engine light when it comes on because the odometer has reached a specific mileage interval. If the CEL has come on because of an actual error code, flipping the switch to the opposite position will not make the CEL go off.
You can also just unhook the switch and the CEL will not come on unless there is an actual error code.
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So I got my door hinges cut today an doors installed. My tailgat plasma cut to receive the new tail lights its getting on Friday. An the new an improved 10 gallon fuelcell . It's comin along. Now I just need to finish the lights an wirin in the front an install a horn. Also I'm trying to figure out what this bracket was for can't seen to remember an it was taped with a note which is wired. Maybe it doesn't belong to the sammi
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Also I'm trying to figure out what this bracket was for can't seen to remember an it was taped with a note which is wired. Maybe it doesn't belong to the sammi
That bracket is a transport tie down bracket that is bolted to the front of the frame rails. It is not needed. I wouldn't even put it back on, that way you don't have to worry about accidently hooking a tow rope or chain to it (it is not strong enough to pull on).
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Worked out all of my wiring front to back lights work an or the wireing that goes to the lights work . Waiting till Friday for my new led tail lights. Trimed the YJ fender flare just need to go get bolts to put them in. Got some random stuff in a box that came with the tube maybe one of you guys can help me figure out what the stuff is.
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Also was wondering if someone can help me with the flow of brake line from the front to the back . There are no arrows to show the direction of flow on the power dividers an what not an I was the one who took all the lines off. I have put on the lines for the most part. But if some one knows or has a diagrahm of the flow starting from the booster to the rear axel.
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So the Sami is close to being done still waiting for a new vacume advance so I'm hoping that that fixes my running like shit issues. But what a project havnt had much time in the past month since I been workin a tone of overtime but this week I will get a bunch of the little stuff done .
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Wow,really sounded like alot of work switching that tub,but good to see your gettin there!!My Samurai came with a removable Hardtop,its pretty cool!!