ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: chrisvitarasport94 on April 05, 2004, 11:56:08 PM
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I finally fitted the Spec Prods Ez Cam XR 81250 bolts today - good instructions, only took an hour all in.
I set them to create maximum negative camber, to correct the positive camber caused by the lift.
I can certainly recommend this as an easy, cheap & effective modification - there is no reason not to do it!
As an aside, I saw on a "lowering" camber adjustment page that 1" of drop generates 1 deg of neg camber, so if the reverse applies my lift must have created 2.5 deg of positive camber. The bolts can correct +/- 1.75 deg, so that might bring it back now to within the factory spec of 0.3 deg +/- 1 deg
The wheels have been visibly corrected and now appear upright and parallel to the rears when view from the front, but I must get a proper camber check done.
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Nice one Chris, got any pics? Before you go to get the alignment done be sure to check that they actually know how to operate the equipment. I went to a local Stop 'n' Steer place and they checked the toe-in but didn't know how to check the camber with their hugely expensive equipment. I may just try a straight edge against the wheel rim, a protractor and a plumb line. Pretty much the way I used to set up my front suspension when I raced bikes.
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thanks for the tip, I'll speak to the head honcho and explain what I've done. and what I want.
Still haven't bought a digi camera yet sorry!
The instructions on the Spec Prod web site give a good picture of the fitting and adjustment.
http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_TRUCK.html
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Now had the aligment properly checked after fitting the camber correction bolts;
camber was within the +/- 30' !!!
caster un affected
toe in slightly out, could be due to lift but probably due to 10 years wear and tear - now put right.
Vitara has now been set up with -ve camber and toe, within specs, to give best off road control, and drives very well now!
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Did you notice any difference in under/oversteer on the road?
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I'm running the OME supension plus coil spacers and the camber adjustment bolts allowed the alignment to come back in spec after fitting the spacers. It handles just like it used to standard just higher and firmer.
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Yes James, it seems to run smoother & with less effort than before - the previous resistance I put down to the MT's!, but evidently "perfect" alignment really makes a difference.
As I thought when I fitted the bolts, and it's like getting your shifters done after a body lift, it really is worth the extra effort to finish the job properly.
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Do you have the information on where to find the camber bolts? About how much did they cost? Any pictures of the kit?
Thanks,
Michael
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see the web site mentioned above; Spec Prods EZ Cam XR. search the web also for Monroe ( Munroe?) Magic Cam
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just picked up a set today. i can't wait to see the results.
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hey guys u don't have to buy camder bolts. just cut out the top strut hole where it bolts to the shoot the word evades me right now. anyway it will alow you to adjust the camder just make sure you measure it out first struts aren't that cheep.
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struts aren't that cheep.
but the camber bolts were ;D
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What exactly are camber bolts (the link above was no help)?
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http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_TRUCK.html
I think if you follow this link it should make it clear
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( COPIED FROM A SIMILAR RECENT POST )....
A-Arm offset bushes- step 2 in camber correction!!!
http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cgi?category=645&product=1004300113&sc_add=1004300113&
- you might like to consider these Oz modifications as were recommended to me, but which I haven't needed to try or to consider any further.
If you do try them, or anyone else has, how about some feedback please
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but the camber bolts were  ;D
A_O...did you get the camber bolts from the link provided? If so how much were they?
Thanx
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A_O...did you get the camber bolts from the link provided? If so how much were they?
Thanx
I went to a local auto supply store called Lordco. They first brought out a set from monroe that cost $40 each but it had plastic sleves which I didn't like, so the guy said he had another set which cost $40 for the pair. I noticed it was the SPC #81250 bolts that Chris bought so I bought it. I'll probably have to wait untill next weekend to install them though.
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Thanks for the info A_O. If I can't find them here in Edmonton maybe I could get you to pick up a set for me there and send them out?
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sure
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I believe LordCo is also PartsAmerica,Checker auto and Advance Auto Parts here in the U.S.? I found them listed at the parts america website.
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=SP4&MfrPartNumber=81250
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Well my last couple of posts on this subject got lost in the server crash, so I'll update. Last weekend I installed the udjustable camber bolts, which aloud for connsiderable adjustment both ways.
So today I took it to a alignment shop to get a professional alignment done. I had an appointment for 10:00 am, it ended up taking untill 3:30 pm long story there. The down side is when I got it back the steering wheel sit a little to the left now which bugs the hell out of me, but I was too tired, and stressed to take it back and complain. The good side is that my alignment is straight the camber looks right, although the guy told me I need to replace some of my steering components as they're showing signs of wear.
So all said and done I'm happier now that my camber looks correct, and the alignment is done which should reduce unessesary tire wear.
:)
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Just remove and turn the steering wheel,
that's all they are going to do, and it won't
take another 5 hours to do yourself :)
Wild
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yup that's what i was thinking. i'd probably need a steering wheel puller though. i'm sure i cand find someone with one to lend me. :)
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Naw, just grab that sucker and pull, mine
has come off every time, even when it was
new and I had to get it off, it came off with
a big pull, POP and it was off
;D
Wild
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I believe LordCo is also PartsAmerica,Checker auto and Advance Auto Parts here in the U.S.? I found them listed at the parts america website.
[url]http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=SP4&MfrPartNumber=81250[/url]
After calling my local checker auto parts and being told they would have to order them and it would take 10 days,i checked for camber bolts on Ebay and bought some from this guy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33581&item=2428584099&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V
Ordered on Monday and recieved on Wednesday!!
Had Tracker aligned on Thursday evening. Came out real nice,steers and handles straight,new tires ride real smooth. ;)
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Glad you're pleased with the result as I was - we should encourage all other owners to do it.
Re STEERING WHEEL -
1st... before removing the steering wheel get the road wheels lined up straight ahead and mark TDC on the threaded bolt with a punch.
then 2nd.. when removing the boss nut leave it on the thread, just flush with the top of the threads and tap it firmly with a hammer to release the splines. This couples with the WD40 and a sharp pull should release it.
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Good tip, but be careful with the punch
as to not mess up the threads, you might
also use a marker instead
Wild
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yeah i know all about damaged threads.
years ago i built a austin mini into a road racer, well i bought a momo steering wheel for it. so trying to remove the stock wheel i pounded on the stud with a hammer. i finally got the wheel out, and the momo on, but the nut wouldn't go on because the threads were damaged, so i drove it without a nut :)
then one day while sitting at an intersection behind a pinto waiting for it to make a left turn, i looked in my rearview mirror, and saw a white van getting bigger, and bigger knowing it wasn't going to stop :o well i held on tight with my arms straight holding the wheel. then bam i get rear ended, i slam into the car in front of me shoving him out of the way. then my little mini starts racing towards the curb. with 10" tires it didn't jump the curb it came to sudden stop slamming my face into the wheel, then i flung backward pulling the wheel out, and smacking myself in the face again :o
the moral of that story, is i won't make that mistake twice ;)
lol, i'm a good bleeder ;D
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(http:// http://forum.htmlfacile.net/images/smilies/roflmao.gif) ........... :P
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You know they say the biggest problem with most
cars is the loose nut behind the steering wheel
;)
Wild
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*2nd.. when removing the boss nut leave it on the thread, just flush with the top of the threads and tap it firmly with a hammer to release the splines. This couples with the WD40 and a sharp pull should release it. *
This is all good except one thing you gotta pull on the steering wheel before you hit it.
If you have a air hammer it works better just use a pointed tip and drop it into the dimple just don't keep hammering until the shaft swells. :o
Also be advised some steering gear boxes have a high spot in the center where the gears mesh tighter for a better road feel . this is not likely the case with these little zukes but is is possible.
If the wheel is just slightly off center it's ok to reposition but check this out and be sure you have full turning radious both ways.
Having said all this this:
The correct way to fix this is to center the steering wheel and reset the toe.when the alignment is done or redone ::)
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i just dont see where these work... am i blind? i backed off the coil spacer route cause i was told that my 90 tracker did not have a way to adjust for the camber that would get messed up. any one got a pic, i just cant see..... :-[
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I was skeptical at first too see my camber looked almost like this \ / but no were near as bad, but it was very noticable as folks would tell me about it. The bolt has a cam lobe on it with an arrow on the bolt face pointing to the top of the lobe. So if you pointed that arrow towards the engine you are at full negative camber, that turned out to be too much as my wheel looked like this / \ exactly way too much. Then I pointed the arrow straight up, and my tires looked like this l l and after the wheel alighnment it rides so much better but the tire grooves in the roads still pull me left and right. Have a looke at a couple of pictures to get an idea of how they work.
(http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_photos/81250.jpg)
(http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_illustra/81250ill.jpg)
(http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_installphoto/81250in1.jpg)
(http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_installphoto/81250in2.jpg)
(http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/prod_dynamic/prod_installphoto/81250in3.jpg)
Now that this fixes one problem it doesn't solve the other remaining issues. You see when you install the Calmini 3" lift you need to add more weight up front cause your actually sitting at about 4" of lift without and added weight. So your control arms are sitting lower,and your springs aren't straight either, and your steering linkage is a little out of wack. Also this problem doesn't give the flex you suspension lift was designed to give you, so it's a trade off. With the steering linkage out of wack it's going to wear quicker.
Look at the front tires of my tracker to get an idea of how my camber was.
(http://members.shaw.ca/wintersam/images/fronthood.jpg)
this picture doesn't do it justice but you can tell that the front camber is out. No more though it looks straight now :)
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WOW A.O. great post! that helps me out alot. im in. and will be including these with the spring lift i am doing.
the good luck for me is that when i do the 3" lift, my homemade tube bumper W/ winch is ver heavy. :) sch 40 tube! 1/4" wall thinckness.
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good for you A.O. - I think we've started something here!!
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good for you A.O. - I think we've started something here!!
hey thanks to you for bringing those camber bolts to my attention :)
every bit of info i can sponge off this site is helping me alot
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good for you A.O. - I think we've started something here!!
Chris did you source yours in the UK?
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yeah i know all about damaged threads.
years ago i built a austin mini into a road racer, well i bought a momo steering wheel for it. so trying to remove the stock wheel i pounded on the stud with a hammer. i finally got the wheel out, and the momo on, but the nut wouldn't go on because the threads were damaged, so i drove it without a nut :)
then one day while sitting at an intersection behind a pinto waiting for it to make a left turn, i looked in my rearview mirror, and saw a white van getting bigger, and bigger knowing it wasn't going to stop  :o well i held on tight with my arms straight holding the wheel. then bam i get rear ended, i slam into the car in front of me shoving him out of the way. then my little mini starts racing towards the curb. with 10" tires it didn't jump the curb it came to sudden stop slamming my face into the wheel, then i flung backward pulling the wheel out, and smacking myself in the face again  :o
the moral of that story, is i won't make that mistake twice  ;)
lol, i'm a good bleeder  ;D
LOL thats a funny story.
stu
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.. Offroading.net.. yes , easy, from their UK supplier,
Haweka (UK)ltd
Unit 5 Beta
Orchard Trading Estate
Toddington
Glos
GL54 5EB
01242 621001 no web/email!!!
Pair EZ Cam XR 81250 12mm bolts 17.28 + P&P 4.50 +VAT 3.81 =£25.59
fast delivery, you won't be disappointed.
where are you in the UK?
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Ta, I am in Malpas, South Cheshire.
Steve
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I'm in Devon - will bear you in mind if ever I go to Wales again
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I've also installed the EZ Cam bolts today.
In the front I have OME springs with a 3/4" spacer, Koni shocks and 235 tires.
That's how it looks BEFORE:
(http://www.jeeptrip.com/upload/g4amywdf-2.jpg)
After home installation:
(http://www.jeeptrip.com/upload/8tf2h4u3-2.jpg)
...And after the alignment shop:
(http://www.jeeptrip.com/upload/tcj3shch-2.jpg)
(http://www.jeeptrip.com/upload/nvzslh5m-2.jpg)
Quick & easy :) 8) :) 8)
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Sounds like the camber bolts are the way to go. When I made my suspension lift, I couldn't find them here(Iowa) at my parts store. I ended up doing like tracker8wr said.
Used a high speed reamer tool that works on a drill or air die grinder,(Northern Tool). I oval'ed out the upper and lower hole along with the 3 bolt holes for the ball joint to allow the bottom of the wheel to adjust out a little more. My camber was WAY off. I used a pair of calipers to measure the holes and get them about the same on each side. I eye'ed the camber and it looks right. Been about a month of driving and the old tires are wearing even. (Still neesd to get the 4" body lift done to fit the 32's), then I'll probably take to an allighnment shop. ;D
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DoRon, nice bumper / winch mod - how did you make it fit like that???
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DoRon, nice bumper / winch mod - how did you make it fit like that???
This is a small Warn Z3500 winch. I don't know if this mod will work with a bigger winch.
The winch plate seats under the front cross member, attached with 2 U-bolts. The plate also have "sidewalls", and they are attached to each framerale with 2 bolts & a peace of metal from the other side.
(http://www.kielbassa.com/pictures/Winch5.JPG)
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neat - is it easy to use being underneath like that?
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Well, if you get stuck in deep water or mud... ::) :-/ I gess it will be hard to operate the winch, but usually when there is a tough terrain ahead, I prepare the winch with the remote cable connected and the main cable is a bit free for easy handling when need to.
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Topic to top for Ed
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Thanks Mike, read it and it helped me, think i'll try this some time.