ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: jbrydes on January 20, 2011, 11:32:50 AM
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im thinking about getting a sidekick,1990-1995 4 door,after a little research i found out that some were built in japan,some in canada,just wondering if anyone out there has an opinion on which one is better or worse.
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Most of the US and Canada will be the Canada built Kicks and Trackers.... The only difference I have found in my 17 years of Suzuki ownership is a different crossmember and different guts to early model T-cases... For quality of build, either will be fine..
Zig
damn.. really... 17 years already???..... Time flys when your having fun ;D
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Either way you can't go wrong. I've got one of each, a Canadian built 95 2 door TT, and a Japan built ( at least it says so under the hood? ) 93 4 door. Try and find the 95 if you can, all the upgrades but still OBD1.
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im thinking about getting a sidekick,1990-1995 4 door,after a little research i found out that some were built in japan,some in canada,just wondering if anyone out there has an opinion on which one is better or worse.
The canada and japan built ones are basically identical. So one is no better than the other, IMO.
You will want to find a 92-95 four door, since they all had the 16V engine in them. The 91 four doors had the 8V. There is really no difference between the 92-95 four doors. They added a couple of sensors to the later ones, but nothing that made them any better, IMO.
Easy way to tell if it is a canadian built or a japanese built trackick........if the VIN starts with a 2 it is canadian, if it starts with a J it is japanese.
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OK thanks for the info,but what is obd1,also i had a guy tell me one time to avoid the 16v cause when the timing chain or belt goes the motors cooked,he said 8v is the way to go.I had a 98 2 door 16v and it was awsome,it just got to small for my ever growing family.
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Well, unless you are buying a 91 4 door, you don't have the option of getting an 8V in a 4 door. That is, unless you swap one in.
Timing belts rarely break. And if they do, trackick 16Vs are non-interference engines, so no valve damage will occur. At least that has been the experience of the people on here, that have tested to see if the trackick 16Vs are interference engines. If you are worried about it, change out the timing belt, at the recommended intervals, then you won't have to worry about it.
OBD1 and OBD2 are different types of systems found in vehicles, depending on what year they are. I don't recall the year OBD1 was initiated, but it ran through 1995. 1996 and up vehicles have OBD2. The main differences between them on trackicks are OBD2 trackicks have an extra O2 sensor, they have the coil built into the distributor and they have a crank sensor at the front of the engine. With an OBD2 system, you have to use a code reader to get the error codes from the ECM, where as on the OBD1s you just put a jumper in one of the plugs and the check engine light will flash the codes to you. Personally, I prefer the OBD1 trackicks....just a little simplier/easier to work on and not quite as much stuff to go wrong.
Here is some more info, in greater detail, if you really want to know....
http://www.auto-facts.org/OBD-2.html (http://www.auto-facts.org/OBD-2.html)
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thanks,i liked the idea of the 16v anyway,plus finding a doner with a good motor and bad body is pretty easy around here,the one person had mentioned obd1,thats the computer isnt it?did they change to ones you want to avoid?
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awsome im sure ill have more silly questions to come.
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thanks,i liked the idea of the 16v anyway,plus finding a doner with a good motor and bad body is pretty easy around here,the one person had mentioned obd1,thats the computer isnt it?did they change to ones you want to avoid?
As long as it's 95 or older it's OBD 1. OBD = On board diagnostics, simply a way to read engine and transmission codes.
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cool thanks
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I know an 8valve is a non interference motor, but I am almost certain the 16valve is an interference motor. some pople say yes and some say no, but I say it is and hope to never find out. besides most the time a 16 valve gets work out and stops working then breaking timing belts.
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I am positive the 16v is a non interference motor, from personal experience.
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maybe you got lucky or something, but I know the chiltons manual says it is, but what do they know. when I did my first water pump on my first kick I called TT because I didnt have a service book to get the timing marks right, and I think they said it was an interference motor.
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I have a Factory Service Manual and no where does it state it's an interference type motor, but I've heard plenty of argument on the subject in this and other forums and the proofs in the pudding as they say. I've spun my engine under power with the starter motor and by hand, with the timing of the cam off 180 and never did anything hit. But I never dropped a belt at 6000 rpm either, so I guess I can't say what would happen under those circumstances. BTW, Chiltons has got many incorrect statements including their method of timing the cam and ignition.
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I've logged over a half million miles in various Kicks, 91-95, and never had a timing belt break.
If you're concerned about it, when you get one, just replace the timing belt. Be sure to replace the timing belt tensioner, and the water pump, while you're in there.
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I have a Factory Service Manual and no where does it state it's an interference type motor, but I've heard plenty of argument on the subject in this and other forums and the proofs in the pudding as they say. I've spun my engine under power with the starter motor and by hand, with the timing of the cam off 180 and never did anything hit. But I never dropped a belt at 6000 rpm either, so I guess I can't say what would happen under those circumstances. BTW, Chiltons has got many incorrect statements including their method of timing the cam and ignition.
I agree with what your saying bentparts
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you all forgot one thing ::)
in 1990,1991 and 1991 1/2 all four doors with the manual tranny are with the 5:38 gear into the diff :-*
but the best choice is like some people said take a 1995 but upgrade it with the gear of the 1991.
and take it with the manual tranny if you can.
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I got a 91 door, but dont want to sell the gears and the gears are really hard to find.
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you all forgot one thing ::)
in 1990,1991 and 1991 1/2 all four doors with the manual tranny are with the 5:38 gear into the diff :-*
but the best choice is like some people said take a 1995 but upgrade it with the gear of the 1991.
and take it with the manual tranny if you can.
You forgot one thing as well. There were no 90 four doors. The first year for the 4 doors was 91....and all had the 1.6 8V engine....5 speeds had 5.38 diff gears, autos had 4.62 diff gears. It was also the only 4 door to come with a 3 speed auto tranny.
BTW, I have some complete 5.38 trackick thirds I'd sell. They are listed in the "for sale" section.
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you all forgot one thing ::)
You forgot one thing as well.
You forgot one thing as well. I am not left handed!
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you all forgot one thing ::)
You forgot one thing as well.
You forgot one thing as well. I am not left handed!
I didn't forget. I just don't care. :P
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To get back to the subject off interference VS non-interference. I have a 1997 four door and broke a timing belt going 75mph on the high way and it didn't do any damage. Just swapped in a new belt and away I went. Been driving it daily since then for over a year!
My trackkick is a 4 spd auto with the 5.13 gears. LEt say I was able to find some 5.38, would there be a significant differnence. I am running 31's and will most likely not go bigger. With the auto, I find it often needs to downshift on the highway and I am thinking taht extra bit of gearing could help, but I will not do it if the difference would be minimal.
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5.38s would make for about a 200 RPM change at 70. So that may be enough to keep it in the "powerband" and keep it from wanting to downshift. But it's kinda hard to say for sure.
If you went to 5.62s, that would make for about a 350 RPM change at 70.
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Thanks for the info...... I will keep that in mind!
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So would a 91 sidekick with a bad motor but decent body be worth 500 bucks, it is a manual and i have a 95 two door 16 valve TT with an auto that i would like to be a stick. I could also use many of the other parts and sell a couple to my buddy (body parts) so back to my original question, is this kick worth 500 u think?
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Ya, I've seen missing running Track/Kicks go for $500, depending
on the circumstances you might whine about the bad engine and
get another $100 off of it
Wild
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I offered the guy 350 sight unseen and let him sit on it for a month, thin i called him again and offered him 400 seen and he still wont budge he thinks that the tranny is worth its weight in gold and this is the reason he wont budge on it i've seen trannys on here for sale for 80 bucks, i dont quite think thats worth 500 but i want to make mine a stick so i need the petals and clutch and all the other goodies too so...
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Sounds like he knows you want the trans
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If it is worth $500 to you, then buy it. If it isn't, then offer him whatever it is worth to you and leave it at that and look elsewhere. Unless it is a 4 door (with 5.38 gears) then it wouldn't be worth that to me.
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If it is worth $500 to you, then buy it. If it isn't, then offer him whatever it is worth to you and leave it at that and look elsewhere. Unless it is a 4 door (with 5.38 gears) then it wouldn't be worth that to me.
Sounds like a fair price too me.
Or you could try another method; buy it for a fair price for what it is, then piss and moan and crybaby until he gives the money back or even pays you to fix it! :laugh:
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If it is worth $500 to you, then buy it. If it isn't, then offer him whatever it is worth to you and leave it at that and look elsewhere. Unless it is a 4 door (with 5.38 gears) then it wouldn't be worth that to me.
Sounds like a fair price too me.
Or you could try another method; buy it for a fair price for what it is, then piss and moan and crybaby until he gives the money back or even pays you to fix it! :laugh:
Haha, you're funny. I can't help it if you are too stupid to know the condition of the stuff you are selling.