ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: barlow86 on February 17, 2011, 11:00:02 AM
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Im curious as to what everyone thinks about body lifts as a cheap way to fit bigger tires. I have an 86 sammy, very low budget but she needs some lift. I use the truck as a dd, and i just want enough lift to run around a 33in tire at the most. Ive looked at the sr lifts, and the spoa but i dont have the on hand cash to dump into a spoa, and i drive this rig everyday so letting it sit as i build it is not an option. all thoughts and comments thank you in advanced.
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IMO body lift is ok if u dont go higher than 3". You could do a virtual lift which consists of cutting the fender.
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I absolutely despise body lifts. they are just junk, they offer body on frame movement, screwy shifter attributes and look like hell too. with that being said sometimes there a good answer for motor swap clearance issues but only then I recommend a 1" MAXIMUM.
I have turned down buying vehicles because the had a body lift. just one another reason.
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What is your main use of the vehicle? Does it see lots of street use?
I agree, body lifts should only be used as a last resort for that little bit of clearance you need for (example) motor swaps, etc. or to accompany a quality suspension lift of sorts. I don't like them but lots of people on here run them successfully as their primary mode of lift. Your choice. If you're looking for a super cheap way to just make it look taller, do what you want to do.
On the other hand, another cost effective solution, I don't even like shackle lifts but I'd recommend them over a body lift.
x2 what JLuck said about the shifters...the Samurai shifters are really affected by this.
If you want to spend a little more, do a shackle reversal. You could make it yourself, or use Calmini's kit http://www.puresuzuki.com/shackle_reverse.htm (http://www.puresuzuki.com/shackle_reverse.htm)
It would net you 2" of lift and good street manners. My personal preference. If I ever bought a Sammy this is what I would do to it and run a 29-30" tire and call it good. Makes them look GREAT.
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As djatis57 mentioned you should look at the vehicle requirements. For a daily driver you might want to stay down around 30" tires, a set of OME 2.5" lift springs will allow that and get you a softer ride.
If your looking to run 33" tires your going to need 5" if lift with some fender trimming, minimum. I ran 33x12.5" tires with my SJ with just a straight SPOA with an extra long leaf to help keep the springs straight. But it was a bit tight. You are also going to need a 6.5:1 t-case as well.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SlQUBnJ3UKI/AAAAAAAAEnA/JqMnayBLraM/s640/DCP_0084.JPG)
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Thank you for the posts. I do have one more question regarding "cheap" lifts. I have seen the block lifts they use on pick ups frequently , generally in the 3 to 4in lifts. They block under the or in our case over the axle with a u bolt resulting in the blocks size in lift. Any opinions on that. Just curious again as to what ppl feel about it. And to to add, I think im going to do the spoa. Its gona take a while but i think its the way to go. It seems everyone on here loves them. and it warrants the perfect amount of lift
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that only works if your spring OVER, the samurai in stock configuration is spring under, if you went to do the lift blocks how it is right now its going to LOWER the truck.
to use lift blocks your going to have to do a spring over conversion first.
also, those lift blocks are garbage, they premote spring wrap and most places wont let you lift the front axle with them, (ive seen some trucks FROM THE FACTORY with lift blocks all around with thembeing 3-4"!)
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I agree blocks are butch! And never ever use them in the front!!!! Your life is worth
More than that!
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You should listen to what the guys had said about body lifts are not safe and cause lots of other issues.if you are a fabricator you should change the spring to be over and that is the cheepest way,you can either cut off the old spring purches or go buy new ones for a few bucks and weld them on, but also you will need to realign the drive shaft angle. And if its a dd stay with 30" tires
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Alright sounds good. I was just curious as to what ppl thought of them. they looked sketchy to me being that the focus all the energy into the blocks therefore making a weak point. i think I may start with a shackle reverse its a little on the cheaper side and appears to be all inclusive. the spoa seem to require more and more parts as u go and equaling more dollars lol. not such a bad thing if it werent my dd. i guess start small and work my way up. plus the s/r should give me enough room to run 30's correct? Thank you for all your help folks.
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Yes, you should be able to run 30" tires with the SR setup. A softer ride then stock as well. :)
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Alright sounds good. I was just curious as to what ppl thought of them. they looked sketchy to me being that the focus all the energy into the blocks therefore making a weak point. i think I may start with a shackle reverse its a little on the cheaper side and appears to be all inclusive. the spoa seem to require more and more parts as u go and equaling more dollars lol. not such a bad thing if it werent my dd. i guess start small and work my way up. plus the s/r should give me enough room to run 30's correct? Thank you for all your help folks.
I agree. Especially if its a daily driver. Keeping things simple seems to be best for commuters. With these lightweight trucks you dont need much as they're already quite capable in stock form.
Also the bigger the tires and Everything else means more money for gear changes and/or engine mods or swaps. The smaller tires keep your budget low not only for suspension but powertrain too