ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: djlantis57 on February 19, 2011, 10:29:01 AM
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Reading based off these instructions: http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm (http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm)
If I wanted to change over the pass. side to a driver's side shaft assembly, I would need to cut a pass. side axle at the cup, and a driver's side inner shaft at the flange. THAT I understand perfectly.
But in these instructions, it says to cut two more driver's side flanges. I realize these instructions are meant for the widening mod...
If I'm not doing the widening, do I need to cut two more flanges? Or, since it's not widened, I can just use the cup-and-flange assy. and bolt on a new driver's side axle to that?
I'm thinking the two extra flanges are for the widening only. But I'm trying to do the axle mod ONLY, not the widening...
Anyone has an answer, thank you.
DJ
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I do not think there is enough clearance to just make the stub shaft axle, and use drivers side CV.
Even if doing the Hagen widening mod, I am not sure what the extra two flanges would be for. Maybe you could make up two spare stub axle shafts, and give one to me.
So I am interested in the answers also.
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The two flanges are for a spacer between the "new" stub shaft and the axle assembly.
You can also just make a spacer out of steel, aluminum, whatever. I guess they just say to use the flanges because 2 make the thickness correct and the bolt pattern is already drilled in them.
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Sooo, if you didn't do the widening mod, or use the extra spacers, would you be able to run the drivers side CV on the modified stub axle shaft?
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Sooo, if you didn't do the widening mod, or use the extra spacers, would you be able to run the drivers side CV on the modified stub axle shaft?
Maybe. I don't know. I've just made parts for people...never actually done the mod on any of my trackicks. You might check with bentparts, he has done the mod. But he also has the widening mod. But he may be able to give you an idea on whether or not you can just use the modded stub and and regular drivers side axle shaft, if not doing the widening mod.
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Sooo, if you didn't do the widening mod, or use the extra spacers, would you be able to run the drivers side CV on the modified stub axle shaft?
That's basically the question I am asking. I didn't get the part about cutting two spacers...do you use one for each side when doing the widening? If so, why not cut the cup of the pass. side axle a little longer and add one flange instead of adding three flanges? Didn't make sense, unfortunately those instructions weren't clear there.
Reason why I'm asking is because my pass. side CV was the culprit for noise, but a new one is not available for awhile unless I pay a freight charge, but I'd rather wait for it to ship in, considering changing it over at this time.
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Ok, I am remembering a little bit more about it now. The doubled up spacers (cut off axle flanges) are for the drivers side, not the passengers side. So they do make up for the added width, when the hagen widening mod is done. So if you didn't do the widening mod, you wouldn't need the doubled up spacers.
The single spacer (cut off axle flange) is for welding to the cut off passengers side stub shaft (so you can bolt the "new" drivers side CV shaft assembly to it. Again, you could make a spacer, instead of cutting up an axle shaft for the flange.
As I said before, you can use pieces of metal to make the spacers, instead of cutting up a bunch of axle shafts. Here is the link to bentparts pics that show how spacers can be used, instead of cut off axle flanges.
Passenger side stub shaft (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts/427356059/#)
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That's what I was thinking. It'd be easier to cut out two extra spacers out of a plate, instead of cutting up three long side stub shafts.
I guess it's a matter of comparing the overall length of the passenger side axle to the driver's side axle and make the "new" axle to match the length of the existing pass. side assembly, that would make the most sense. Luckily I have an entire extra parts car to pull axles out of to compare them.
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Don't cut those axles if they are 26 spline, you will want those in 1 piece ;)
Wild
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Sorry guys haven't been online in a couple days. While I was modifing the Calmini control arms I first assembled them in the stock mounting position ( no widining ) with the modified D/S axle and stub shaft in place, and it did fit and cycle through the range of movement without binding. So it is possible to use the stub shaf/DS axle in the stock location but I can't say for sure how it would act fully loaded.
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I tried it with stock arms and no widening and made the right stub axle so short that the bolts that bolted the axle together hit the diff mount. Even then the right axle was still to long to be able to get it in place when the suspension was loaded. When I say loaded I mean when the axle is straight or level or horizontal or at it's longest length. I then did the widening but only about 3/4 of inch because I was running a stock frt bumper which still needed minor trimming with 31's. I saw that Bentparts used counter sunk bolts in his right stub axle to gain clearance to pass the diff mount. He's a tricky little bugger!
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Why thank you Gearjam, Tricky little bugger I am :laugh:
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Don't cut those axles if they are 26 spline, you will want those in 1 piece ;)
Wild
How would I know that? That's 96-98, right? The parts car is a 1995.
I saw how bentparts used countersunk bolts, great idea...that would depend on the amount of clearance needed. Sounds like it's a trial-and-error type project...
...measure twice, cut once :laugh:
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I think you guys are on the right track here. I have done the mod a couple times and yes it's definitely a measure twice and cut once process. It is not difficult if you have some basic tools, a welder and some time. CV cups are really really hard and take some time to cut through. Clearance issues with bolts need to be checked for sure. Also make sure you tac your parts together and assemble them into the car. Cycle your suspension up and down and make sure that your CVs are not bottoming out. There is some level of lengthening and shortening that occurs as the suspension cycles. If the compression of the axles through the cycle of suspension cause the the CVs to bottom out per say the the insides of the CVs will actually cut there way through the cover place on the outside of the CV (where the 3 bolts are) also you can remove the snap ring on the outer portion of the CV and run a bolt and washer. This eliminates the need to have snap ring pliers on the trail..
good luck and done right this mod works well.
Hutch
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This is a great mod, but so far, knock on wood, I've never had to change out a cv on the trail. sure is a bunch easier though if you have to.