ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: mac_1981 on June 06, 2011, 11:00:12 PM
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My dad bought the Calmini easy ride lift a little while back. It is the reverse shackle set up came with new shocks springs and a billet drive shaft spacer which we didnt need. It said it would improve ride quality of the sammy and now it rides like a log wagon and the drop pitmam arm it came with is a 3" drop and had the steering way off had to put stock back on to correct it. I was wondering if anybody else had any issues with this company? We called and complained and that was pointless and a waste of time. I think I'm going to do a spoa on mine cut the brackets off the bottom of the axle and weld them on the top and reuse stocks springs and use that 3" drop pitman arm that is just laying in a box of parts so should have time and no money in this lift.
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You might try going to a lighter set of shocks. What sized tires are you looking to run?
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Flat springs will always ride smoother than arched springs.
I would agree about finding some lighter shocks. Gabriel reds (I believe Chevy Chevette rears and old Toyota FJ40s fronts) are properly valved for Samurais and give a good ride.
For the SPOA swap, I recommend buying some new axle pads. If you try to cut off the original Samurai ones, you will likely weaken the axle tube or cut through it trying to remove them. The axle housing is only 1/8" thick or possibly less. I prefer the axle pads that self align and lock into the original pads.
Lots of good info out there. Research online before you buy or do anything to your Samurai.
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you n eed to keep in mind that these lifts are intended for off road machines that have heavy bumpers and winches on them, therefore they raise the spring rate. these companys should have 2 options... one for serious off road, and one for posers!
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OK, I Want to hear the reason why arched springs will ride softer than a flat spring !
I see he fixed it!
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OK, I Want to hear the reason why arched springs will ride softer than a flat spring !
x2
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Oh, jeez. I meant the opposite! :laugh: Flat springs will ride softer than the arched springs. I fixed my post. :police:
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dang! I was hoping leaf springs made a huge advancement I didn't hear about. ;)
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I appreciate all the info from you guys. As for my spoa lift I plan on doing, I have thought about buying the axle pads instead of cutting them off a buddy of mine cut his off and it worked well. I will be taking a chance by cutting them off and thats something I have thought alot about. I took some measurments and it should give my sammy 4.5" of lift. I plan on running 30-9.50-15 tires, I know I could go up to a 32 but with the little 1.3 liter I dont want to be lacking in power. I also plan on getting the webber carb and doing away with the computer and all the emissions. I like hearing your guys idea's. I plan on posting pics as the build progresses.
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put out the few bucks for some quality spring pads. like the ones that "wrap around" the axle tube. its is a wise idea for the Sammy tubes in particular.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/suspension-parts/sky-hd-sky-self-aligning-spring-over-axle-pads.html (http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/suspension-parts/sky-hd-sky-self-aligning-spring-over-axle-pads.html)
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Yes, spend a few bucks for the axle pads.
If your carb is working well, keep it on. The weber is much more troublesome and it doesn't like inclines.
If you're only going with 30" tires, I think the SPOA is too much (32"+ tires IMHO). A mild spring like Old Man Emu will give you enough lift for 30" tires and yield better flex and ride over stock.
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I might go for a 31" tire but my buddy has 32" on his and it is stuffed in the fender wells and rub at certain angles.
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its more than likely the tire width that's screwing your buddy. that's usually more of the problem than tire height but doesn't seem to get the attention it deserves. stay with a 10.50 or narrower to have a better driving and just as capable rig.
my .02 ;)
also there is usually a substantial money savings between 31's and 32's, take that saved money and get a locker,winch,or???.......
and you will have a much more refined and impressive rig on and off road.
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Yep, the 31" vs 32" tire costs can be substantial sometimes since 32" is not really a common size.
I would be that your buddy hasn't moved his front axle forward 1". I think that is a neccessity for all SPOA rigs so that the tire will not rub in the back of the fenderwell.
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I'll add in an argument for buying a new set of spring pads. Specifically pick up the ones from Sky Manufacturing that wrap around and attach to the lower pads. The main reason for this is it helps you avoid ripping the spring pad off with heavy axle wrap. The second is it takes the work out of lining your pads up since they just drop in place. A little more money but worth it to avoid having to weld your axle tube back together:
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=109 (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=109)
You could just get a traction bar instead, but this is cheap insurance. I recommend picking up their full Stage 2 kit, it comes with the spring pads, half of an OTT steering system, drive-line spacers and longer brake lines. I have been running that steering setup for a few years on my SJ and have been pleased with it.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=92 (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=92)
Sliding the axle forward isn't required, and I ran 33" tires with just some pounding in of the fenders. But a RUF conversion, rear springs up front, makes the ride quite a bit smoother. But it does require new shock towers.
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However, if you installed RUF springs in the original spring hanger hole, you did effectively move your springs forward 1". ;)
I know that I couldn't run my 32" MT Pro Comps on 15x8, 2.5" backspaced rims on a stock SPOA rig without severe tire rub in the rear of the fenderwells-even after some BFH work. So, I moved the axle forward 1" and it works mucho better. I have a little rub in the front of the fender well at full stuff (I do run bumpstops), but it's not bad at all.
Besides, moving the front axle forward 3/4" or 1" is super easy. Especially with the Sky Axle pads.
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Re the Calmini 3.5 inch lift,I did basically the same thing but used the OME springs with the SR instead. I put on Cheapo Gabriel shocks and did use the drop pitman. Calmini has a rep for stiff springs and I'll bet their shocks are too. I have 235 tires on it(29") and had to address the backspace issue because of tire rub on full turns. If I hit hard I can rub the back of the wheel well on full stuff. But doesn't happen that often and I flattened the pinch weld inside the wheel well so nothing gets hurt.
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I would ditch the Calmini SR and just run the OME springs. They will give you enough lift for 235s and you will not have the rub issues. The problem with the SR is that is pushes your tires back into the wheel well.
FYI, I ran the OME spring SPUA with 30" ATs/15x7 rims for many years. I only had tire rub at max flex, although I did not ever extend the bumpstops.