ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: Thirty-Nine on June 15, 2011, 02:31:40 PM
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I toook my '95 Sidekick (16V) through Oregon DEQ (emissions) today, and failed due to excessive hydrocarbons: 324ppm and 395ppm (2nd idle)
I just replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, filter, timing belt, and water pump a couple months ago. There is still a small bit of hesitation when cold, however.
My first guess would be EGR ports need to be cleaned. Sound about right?
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Never hurts to clean up the EGR but I say vac leak(s). 8)
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How many miles? Might be time to swap the 02 as well. Maybe reduce the timing a bit.
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HC is due to rich mixture or from a cylinder missing and pumping out the
unburned gas into the exhaust.
EGR will lower Nox, so if the Nox was OK, don't mess with it until you pass.
Change your oil, the vapors are drawn into the intake, and dirty oil has lots
of HC potential, if that isn't enough, then an O2 sensor and a cat would do
the trick.
How much over were you? you didn't post the max allowed passing emissions
Wild
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Had the same problem here in CT. Replaced all those things including the o2 and failed. Finally broke down and replaced the cat. Passed with flying colors You can get an aftermarket cat for $150 and its bolt on. Just don't break any bolts and you should pass!
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Here are the numbers (1st idle and 2nd idle)
Hydrocarbons: 324, 395
CO: 0.1501, 0.8947
CO2: 14.2, 13.3
FYI, it also says on the sheet:
- CO STD is 1
- CO+CO2 is 6
- Oil was just changed about 1,500 miles ago.
- 140,000 miles on the engine
This is the first time I've had to bring a car through Oregon emissions, by the way.
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Had the same problem here in CT. Replaced all those things including the o2 and failed. Finally broke down and replaced the cat. Passed with flying colors You can get an aftermarket cat for $150 and its bolt on. Just don't break any bolts and you should pass!
Is there a sure-fire way to see if it's the cat? I don't hear any rattling (well, at least not from under the car ;D), and no rotten-egg smell.
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Checked the EGR last night. Did "the stall test," and it nearly died when I pushed it up.
Took the EGR off last night, looked pretty clean; just a bit of black on the inside. Took a wire an cleaned out the ports as well as I could. They didn't seem blocked (I have the internal EGR ports on my '95 16V). Oddly, the EGR valve didn't have a gasket on it; looked to be some left-over gasket builder, though. Guess I'll need to get another one.
Pulled a couple plugs; both were gray (not black or brown).
I doubt the O2 sensor has been replaced (140,000 miles on the engine). I should probably replace that anyway.
I can unbolt the cat and check to see if it's toasted, too.
I'll also do a compression test to see what it is.
The engine does seem to have a bit of a stumble to it, too, which I've been told isn't normal. (Duh on my part, I guess :P)
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Had the same problem here in CT. Replaced all those things including the o2 and failed. Finally broke down and replaced the cat. Passed with flying colors You can get an aftermarket cat for $150 and its bolt on. Just don't break any bolts and you should pass!
Is there a sure-fire way to see if it's the cat? I don't hear any rattling (well, at least not from under the car ;D), and no rotten-egg smell.
Yes if you have a temperature gun. You can point it at the exhaust just forward of the cat. Then measure the heat just behind the cat. There should be a significant difference in temperature. Cooler behing after the cat.
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Had the same problem here in CT. Replaced all those things including the o2 and failed. Finally broke down and replaced the cat. Passed with flying colors You can get an aftermarket cat for $150 and its bolt on. Just don't break any bolts and you should pass!
Is there a sure-fire way to see if it's the cat? I don't hear any rattling (well, at least not from under the car ;D), and no rotten-egg smell.
Yes if you have a temperature gun. You can point it at the exhaust just forward of the cat. Then measure the heat just behind the cat. There should be a significant difference in temperature. Cooler behing after the cat.
I do have a temp gun and will try that.
I did replace the O2 sensor; the old one didn't seem to be in very tightly, as it came out easier than any O2 sensor I've ever changed. Found out that I have a California emissions-equipeed vehicle, too (four pin O2 sensor). That car still creates a lot of exhaust stink even after getting the cat nice and hot, so my guess is the cat is toast; I'm going to pull it and check it out. Of course, not sure if that's root cause. I'll have to do some more testing.
Going to do a compression test this week to see if all that's up to snuff.
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You know, you mentioned a bit of a stumble... I just went trough a trouble shooting excercise where I had a 'kick that would stumble right off idle, would sometimes die when coming to a stop light during warm up, and then got so bad that it'd die everytime I stopped at a light... It would cycle between a rough trying-to-die idle and a fine idle... Anyway, it turned out that the MAF sensor was corroded? Weird, right? Anyway, tried cleaning it.. didn't work, replaced it... all better.
So, if you have some of these traits maybe that's a problem for you too? I'd say pull it out and look at it, maybe it needs cleaned?
-Eric
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I'll definitely check that out. Thanks!
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Learned a lot yesterday.
First thing I learned is that it appears I have a cracked exhaust manifold. That can't help anything.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Tekka_Maki/Sidekick/cracked.jpg)
Also did a compression test:
#1 179
#2 160
#3 181
#4 168
Numbers 2 and 4 are a bit low, but they don't see too terrible.
Checked the timing using a timing light, and according to the scale (assuming the little scale reads like this (10 lll 5 lll 0), mine appeared to be just right of center at 4 degrees. It should be at 8, correct?
EDIT: My buddy just said he thought the scale on the cover was 20 lll 10 lll 0, winch case it'd be at 8, which would be correct.
Idle speed was about 900 RPM.
First step looks like it'll be finding a new manifold ...
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don't forget to by pass the ecm while you check your timing.
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Well, I discovered another thing. One of my vacuum lines wasn't attached (the big hose on the bottom of the EGR modulator, I believe). Hmm ... EGR not working? We'll see. Still going to pull the cat and check it out.
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It passed! New O2 sensor, reattached vacuum line seemed to do the turck. Also patched the crack on the manifold with furnace cement. So far, so good, and I won't have to worry about emssions testing again until 2013!
Thanks for all your advice.