ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: Jluck on July 19, 2011, 12:23:20 AM
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were doing a 2.0 swap in a kick out here and just got it running bit #4 cylinder is not getting fuel. therefor motor is running rough and seems to be erratic.Motor started right up but since has had trouble even starting. Is a bad ECM a possibility? or should we be looking somewhere else?
fuel is fresh,pressures good
motor is extremely low miles
timing has never been f-d with
we have known this motor to run flawless in the past and has been sitting for a year+
wiring harness is a trail tough unit.
is this a common issue? I remember reading in the past about #4 cylinder issues but with 16V's
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A bad ECM is a possibility, but so is a bad harness and/or injector - I would start by putting a noid light on the #4 injector if you have one, or swapping the injector for a known good one.
I can probably get you the ECU pin-out if you need it - but I'm a little pushed for time this morning, drop me a line and jog my memory.
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check compression on #4 and make sure it is not a valve issue.
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New harness and now trouble, I would start with the electrics,
a valve doesn't go bad sitting or after a short time running, but
a compression check is always part of a good diagnostic
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so its my rig that is having the trouble... I've checked ignition and have power to the coil, cylinders 1,2,3 all fire just fine. the other problem I am having is that the crankcase is over pressurizing and causing oil to be forced through the pcv into the intake.. any thoughts? also, does anyone have a good way to check signal to the injector? as always the help is appreciated
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Do a compression test, both dry & wet - it will give you a general idea of the engine condition - if the crankcase is "over pressurizing" I would suspect blowby, this would show up in the difference between the wet & dry compression readings, and can be confirmed with a leak down test.
If the motor has been sitting for a year, I guess stuck rings is a possibility.
For injection issues - either a connect a noid light in place of the suspect injector, or swap a known good injector into that position.
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You better check the oil level and quality, make sure someone
didn't fill your radiator from the wrong fill hole, like the oil cap
if you got oil flowing into the intake
Wild
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You better check the oil level and quality, make sure someone
didn't fill your radiator from the wrong fill hole, like the oil cap
if you got oil flowing into the intake
Wild
Huh??? I hope I can fill a crankcase correctly by now..... The oil is going through the pcv valve to the intake tract. It is a bit thicker oil than desired (15w) but I wouldn't think that would make a huge difference. I know people run straight 30w is these motors. (bad idea IMO). The crankcase is building way too much pressure.A compression test will be next.
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Huh??? I hope I can fill a crankcase correctly by now.....
I didn't think there was a correct way to fill a crankcase ;)
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Huh??? I hope I can fill a crankcase correctly by now.....
I didn't think there was a correct way to fill a crankcase ;)
Sure there is. You fill it until oil is at the bottom thread of fill cap. That way you know your valve train is well lubed! And oil won't push out when you tighten the cap down. :laugh:
>please read with sarcasm<
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I did. ;)
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the first thing to do is a comp check , if you are pushing oil out you have a bad piston and or rings .
If it had been sitting a while it is possible that you had a stuck ring and now it is broke or there was a little rust and then that will brake rings and ring lands of the piston.
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It might be the chassis!
:)
-Eric
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It might be the chassis!
:)
-Eric
a curse maybe.... >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D :laugh:
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not funny Eric... >:(
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I got a chuckle....... :P
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It might be the chassis!
:)
-Eric
a curse maybe.... >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D :laugh:
Might need to burn some sage around it and chant a bit while wearing a oilskin loin cloth and body paint.
That oughta do it.
-Eric
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I couldn't find a good compression tester just a old school "rubber nipple" press and hold type so I need to find a better one.
It might be the chassis!
:)
Eric
a curse maybe.... >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D :laugh:
Might need to burn some sage around it and chant a bit while wearing a oilskin loin cloth and body paint.
That oughta do it.
-Eric
I did perform some automotive voodoo on it today....(some seafoam down each cylinder and the rest in the crankcase). that stuff seems to do some witchcraft type things....we shall see.
I figure it can sit in there until I get a good tester and if one cylinder goes dry, it could be a primitive piston ring test. :P
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speaking of pistons and rings.. does anyone know anything about forged pistons for the 2.0? if i have to do some voodoo chanting around it, I'm gonna give it some engine voodoo of my own as in forged and turbo... >:D >:D
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# 2 cylinder was dry of the seafoam that I poured in the other day. So we have a suspect. I hope to get a good compression tester soon.
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I did it!!! got the ring unstuck and went and bought a good compression tester.
1) 140
2)140
3)138
4)140
now all is well except #4 is still not getting fuel, I don't have the specs to electrically test the plug, if anybody does please let me know.
I will change the injector next.
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You want the resistance specs of the injector - from the Suzuki FSM for the early J20A - 13~16 ohms at 68*F.
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I got a new injector and she purrrrs like a kitten now! ;D.