ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Grand Vitara, Vitara, Chevy Tracker (Gen. 2 Platform) 1999-2005 => Topic started by: SlickO on September 12, 2011, 09:35:39 PM
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Hello, I am new to Suzuki. Just bought my first 2000 grand vitara auto, it should be delivered tomorrow ;D. A little about myself I live in Vancouver Wa, and bought the gv for hunting and trail riding. My friend bought a samurai and looking back at my purchase I feel that a samurai would have worked better, oh well at least I have 3 seats in the back.
So I have been looking at my options for lifting it. I would like to get some usable lift for the trail not going to build a full on crawler but diffidently not just for gravel back roads. At the same time will use it to go to work daily. So far from what I read my best option is Jeff's lift and 2" body lift. Then I want to add 1" diff drop brackets, and maybe lengthen the trailing arms in the back (got a friend that can weld pretty well). And will likely run 31' tires.
I was wondering can I get the strut extensions and some junkyard springs xl7 or something else to raise it a bit more? If I extend the trailing arms in the back will I need (not sure what its called) a spacer on top of the rear diff?
Anny suggestions, or anyone see problems with this plan? To sum it up I want to do a Jeffs kit +, so that I can keep up with a samurai on SPOA ~4-5 inch lift. One more thing would like to add I am not interested in buying a ready kit like the calmini or rockyroad some of those cost more than what I paid for the GV, but don't want to cut corners.
(and I did search and read a lot of posts here and on other forums).
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Congrats on the purchase. Is it a 4 or 6 cyl? Might be a dog with 31's depending on the gearing, although probably won't be too bad with a v6. I went with Jeff's kit on my 03 tracker to fit 235s and haven't looked back.
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I agree, Jeff's kit is THE BEST!!!! >:D
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I hate to burst your bubble, but without some serious modifications there is very little chance you'll be able to keep up with a built Sammy off road. This is coming from experience, i have had both trucks.
Don't get me wrong, i love my Vitara - a 2.0L multi-port fuel injected engine is WAY better for daily driving then the 1.3 carbureted lawn mower engine in the Sammy. But the Vitara's and Grand Vitara's are bigger, wider, heavier and not nearly as tough.
That said, get jeff's lift, get a body lift and some bigger tires and your grand vitara is going to be a lot of fun off road! And if your buddie's samurai breaks down out in the bush you'll have room to chauffeur him back to town!
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Thanks for the input. I got the V6 after riding in my buddies samurai this thing got real power :-*. I agree that it would not follow a "built" samurai then again my friends is stock currently, he is planing on SPOA but not going to go wild with it.
Jeff's kit is the best value. I am just wondering what else could be done to get that 1"-1/2" extra, maybe I don't need it once I have the kit on. On another kit it is a aluminum spacer kit they had some sort of bracket looked small about 3-4" inch long to correct some sort of arm placement in the back (can't find the link right now). Do I need that bracket? They were selling it ~50 Canadian separate. If I only go with Jeff's kit 1.5" and 2" back how important is diff drop? From what I hear that 2" lift + 2" body is good to clear 31.
This forum is pretty awesome fond more info here then I imagined. Thanks for your input.
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Thanks for the input. I got the V6 after riding in my buddies samurai this thing got real power :-*. I agree that it would not follow a "built" samurai then again my friends is stock currently, he is planing on SPOA but not going to go wild with it.
Jeff's kit is the best value. I am just wondering what else could be done to get that 1"-1/2" extra, maybe I don't need it once I have the kit on. On another kit it is a aluminum spacer kit they had some sort of bracket looked small about 3-4" inch long to correct some sort of arm placement in the back (can't find the link right now). Do I need that bracket? They were selling it ~50 Canadian separate. If I only go with Jeff's kit 1.5" and 2" back how important is diff drop? From what I hear that 2" lift + 2" body is good to clear 31.
This forum is pretty awesome fond more info here then I imagined. Thanks for your input.
There are two possibilities for where that goes - one is the panhard rod (aka trackbar) which locates the rear axle in a left/right plane - as you raise the vehicle the axle moves right, so it's no longer centered under the vehicle - raise the vehicle high enough and it becomes a problem.
The second possible place is an extension of the LSPV lever arm - there is a load sensing proportioning valve in the brake system - it senses the load in the vehicle and sets the rear braking accordingly - more load, more braking, less load, less braking. It does this based on ride height - more load would normally mean less ride height, but when you add spacers or longer springs, you increase the ride height and that makes the valve think there is less load, so it reduces the amount of braking, and the stopping distance increases.
Do you need it ? Your choice - if it were my car, I'd want it - in both places.
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Good info. I think we should have a thread that deals with lift options laid out for each model covered under this forum.
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You may be talking about the rear differential spacer. It goes on top of the rear end and spacers the upper Y link to compensate for the 2" coil spacers. I make one and can send it with the lift. It is not "needed" but does help get maximum movement out of the rear.
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Thanks for the input. I got the V6 after riding in my buddies samurai this thing got real power :-*. I agree that it would not follow a "built" samurai then again my friends is stock currently, he is planing on SPOA but not going to go wild with it.
Jeff's kit is the best value. I am just wondering what else could be done to get that 1"-1/2" extra, maybe I don't need it once I have the kit on. On another kit it is a aluminum spacer kit they had some sort of bracket looked small about 3-4" inch long to correct some sort of arm placement in the back (can't find the link right now). Do I need that bracket? They were selling it ~50 Canadian separate. If I only go with Jeff's kit 1.5" and 2" back how important is diff drop? From what I hear that 2" lift + 2" body is good to clear 31.
This forum is pretty awesome fond more info here then I imagined. Thanks for your input.
Here is the link to the kit you are talking about, it's also on sale this month: http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=29&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56 (http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=29&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56)
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You only have the LSPV if you do not have ABS.
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So today did about 60 miles off road with my friend in his samurai, got some video that I need to edit and post up. The thing stock is pretty amazing went on atv trails never thought a truck would go there, did I mention its stock with 29" or 28" wheels. Anyways, back to mine I fired it up and it was making noise I thought it was the dreaded timing chain tensioner but sounded like it was coming from the side of the motor. I put in a can of marvel mystery oil and did the 20 minute at 2k rpm and that seems to do the trick, a lot quieter now.
Jeff you said that you can get the diff spacer with the kit, can you tell me how - I was going to order the kit on ebay. Do you have a listing for the spacer or can you include it on the regular listing?
The spacer I was talking about in the previous post is the panhard rod spacer, how important is it with 2" coil spacers? It looks simple enough can I make one or does it need to be precise?
On the brake spacer does anyone have more info on perhaps a link?
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You can buy my kit directly from me and save you a little money vs Ebay. Even if you did use Ebay I will just throw the diff spacer in for free. PM me. I have never used a panhard rod spacer so I really cannot comment on that. It does look easy to make so you probably could just make one.
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You may be talking about the rear differential spacer. It goes on top of the rear end and spacers the upper Y link to compensate for the 2" coil spacers. I make one and can send it with the lift. It is not "needed" but does help get maximum movement out of the rear.
Ahhh - rear diff spacer? Upper Y link?? Are we talking about the same vehicle???
The SideKicks & Trackers have the three link rear end, Grand Vitaras have a five link - I believe the rest of the stuff - spacers, etc., is identical so - let's make sure the kit you're looking at is for the vehicle you have. Not that it won't work, but you might be scratching your head over a part that's not meant for your vehicle.
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Exactly what Foredem said - you don't need the spacer for the y-link because you don't have that on your truck.
I've had jeff's kit on my Tracker for a while now and it has been great. For me, it is just enough lift for the mild wheeling that I do with it. The rest of the time it still rides perfect down the highway. Don't forget, plan on an alignment immediately after installation.
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Sorry guys, I did not pay attention to the year. I should really read s l o w e r. :laugh:
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What are the problems going bigger than 1.5" in the front and 2" in the back? I could get the diff drop brackets or make some to straighten out the CVs, and get some longer brake lines. If for example I put in 2" front and 2.75" in the back would I need drive line spacers and possibly strut extensions (the screw on top shaft type)? What are the limitations for 1.5/2" combo? thanks.
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The limitation is in the IFS front drive design. The CVs have X degree of upward and downward movement, regardless of where the diff is sitting. You can add the diff spacers, which moves the front carrier housing downward, which allows you to use a larger spacer, but you will still have to contend with moving your upper strut mount down (or make artificially longer) to compensate for the drop of the diff.
When you add the 1.5" spacers, when at rest your CVs will be angled down. They aren't "maxed out" in their downward movement, but since they are angled down you have lost some of the downward movement designed into the CV joint. If you add a 2" spacer, your CVs will be more severely angled downward at rest and have virtually no more downward stroke available to them. For example when you are driving on trails and drop one wheel into a hole. The CVs will be constantly operating in a severely flexed position which will cause premature CV failure. On the bright side you would have quite bit of upward movement available to you.
You can virtually "extend" your strut by a using a spacer which Jeff and Mudd Child offer, or you could use a strut extender which basically screws onto the upper end of your stock strut to make it "longer". Which ever you opt for make sure the spacer or extender equals the spacer you use on the spring. If it is too long or too short you will either bottom out or top out your strut which will either cause it to fail prematurely or will grenade on you on hard compression or catching air when wheeling (ask me how I know). The best made extenders (IMHO) are the ones Dave has made and offers for sale on his Bits4Vits web site and on e-bay. His have a small set screw machined into the side which allow you to lock the extender and prevent it from loosening when you are driving.
Another design limitation on these trucks is the rack and pinion steering. The more you space the springs... the more of an angle the front tie rod ends operate in. At some point the seals in the R&P rack will start seeping.
The manufacturers made a major design trade off on modern light duty "trucks" (versus earlier trucks) which was to move away from the straight axle design in favor of the "smoother ride" IFS offers. There are always trade offs. I think the straight axles designs were more beefy and more reliable.
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Ok, I think I understand how the lift works now, thanks for all the input. I ordered Jeffs kit, thanks Jeff. Still sorting out title and registration so the project is moving kinda slow.
So the next thing would be the body lift, can I just use square steel stock drill holes and get longer bolts for the lift? Should the body lift have some give like rubber gaskets to quiet down on vibration? Would a two inch body lift plus spacer lift clear 31" tires?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p9QeBbXcQdI/TnUCdMQdCSI/AAAAAAAAAIE/K61fNSKC6Sw/s576/P1050057.JPG)
To lengthen the steering rod do I replace the link with the two bolts or is there enough space in the link to just pull it out some for 2" body lift.
Just some pic of my new ride.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GxWJfbVkjgU/TnUCdDYyNuI/AAAAAAAAAIA/oai1Xldawx0/P1050058.JPG)
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Here is what you need to do it steering shaft safely:
http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=28&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56 (http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=28&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56)
And the body lift:
http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=27&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56 (http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=27&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56)
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I just got Jeffs lift installed and all went relatively painless. The spacers in the back seem a little tight in the coils like the coils are smaller than they should be and the lip "sticks" out where the end of the coil meet, is this normal? I don't think it will pop out but just struck me as a bit odd. Overall I am happy with the lift, next on to the body lift.
When doing the body lift what do people do with the strut brace? Should I get longer spacers and bolts?
What is needed to correct the brake valve?