ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: chriscouto on September 18, 2011, 06:08:08 PM
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has anyone ener just had crank pully fall off, i just did i think the bolt sheared but it to hot to touch and i have to go back with my trailer tomorrow to retrieve it
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There are 4 or 5 bolts, depending on what you are driving that
hold the front pulley on, those probably came out and the pulley
fell off, hopefully they came out, and you don't need to remove
the crank sprocket to get broken bolts out
Wild
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looks like they sheared off maybe they were loose ill have to get into it more but thanks
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What are you driving? Samurai or Track/Kick?
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They kinda look like special Bolts to me also.
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The bolts depend on what year, same size but different heads. If the bolts sheared off it gives you an excuse to replace your front main seal and timing belt.
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If the engine is a 1.6, there are 5 bolts holding the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft timeing belt pulley which, in turn, fastened to the crankshaft via the large bolt in the middle of the crankshaft. On a 1.3 engine there are 4 bolts.
Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG BOLT ON THE END OF THE CRANKSHAFT FIRST! Remove the 5 (or 4) bolts first THEN remove the big bolt IF IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY (ie. the big bolt is somehow damaged)!
see this post: http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,89816.0.html (http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,89816.0.html)
I hope that this helps!
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Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG BOLT ON THE END OF THE CRANKSHAFT FIRST! Remove the 5 (or 4) bolts first THEN remove the big bolt IF IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY (ie. the big bolt is somehow damaged)!
Ack,
The BIG bolt. Is it lefty loosie, righty tighty? I was told you could break the bolt loose by putting a socket and breaker bar on it, then hit the starter. Sounds to me like an accident waiting to happen.
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Yes that's how some have got it off, but it just holds the cam
timing sprocket on, it does not hold the fan belt pulley
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Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG BOLT ON THE END OF THE CRANKSHAFT FIRST! Remove the 5 (or 4) bolts first THEN remove the big bolt IF IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY (ie. the big bolt is somehow damaged)!
Ack,
The BIG bolt. Is it lefty loosie, righty tighty? I was told you could break the bolt loose by putting a socket and breaker bar on it, then hit the starter. Sounds to me like an accident waiting to happen.
That is the method I have used on many an engine, dont try it with a cheap small breaker bar, 1/2" drive or better required. I have also transcribed the crank pully's 5(or 4) mounting holes to a piece of 1/4" steel to fabricate a crank holder tool.
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From kick-fix.com website
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From kick-fix.com website
That is exactly what I fabricated, thnx for finding and posting that up!!!
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they forgot one hole in it for the locating pin.
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mrfuelish, is that just for the 1.3?
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they forgot one hole in it for the locating pin.
What locating pin? There are none on trackick and samurai crank pulleys.
If you are talking about the keyway slot, I was guessing they drilled the center hole big enough to clear it.
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make sure to use the proper torque on the pulley bolts when reinstalling, I have seen/had pulleys on numerous vehicles shear the bolts, not due to any harsher driving conditions, but because the bolts had been overtightened which stretchs and greatly weakens the bolts, and it takes very minor stress to get them to fail.
The replacement crank timing cog that lowrange shows in their repair kit does have a locating pin.
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make sure to use the proper torque on the pulley bolts when reinstalling, I have seen/had pulleys on numerous vehicles shear the bolts, not due to any harsher driving conditions, but because the bolts had been overtightened which stretchs and greatly weakens the bolts, and it takes very minor stress to get them to fail.
The replacement crank timing cog that lowrange shows in their repair kit does have a locating pin.
The torque is only around 100 IN.LBS for the crank pulley bolts (don't recall the exact spec off the top of my head).
For the lower timing belt cog, the center bolt needs to be torqued to 94 FT.LBS.
Ok, well if it has a locating pin, then it doesn't need to be there and can be ground off or removed. Since the crank pulley will only go on one way, because of the crank keyway.
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The replacement crank timing cog that lowrange shows in their repair kit does have a locating pin.
Ok, well if it has a locating pin, then it doesn't need to be there and can be ground off or removed. Since the crank pulley will only go on one way, because of the crank keyway.
I am referring to the locating pin that is on the face that the drive pulley bolts to on the timing belt cog. The crank keyway doesnt impact/touch the drive pulley at all.
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The replacement crank timing cog that lowrange shows in their repair kit does have a locating pin.
Ok, well if it has a locating pin, then it doesn't need to be there and can be ground off or removed. Since the crank pulley will only go on one way, because of the crank keyway.
I am referring to the locating pin that is on the face that the drive pulley bolts to on the timing belt cog. The crank keyway doesnt impact/touch the drive pulley at all.
Oh, yeah, you are right. The newer ones have the roll pin and are smooth around the outer edge of the raised lip, unlike the older ones like shown in my pic.
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We are both correct! LOL,
What year did they change the design?
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We are both correct! LOL,
What year did they change the design?
Yep we are...LOL. I deal primarily with the older stuff (pre 96) and samurais, so that is why I forgot about the different design on the newer stuff.
I am not sure when they changed it. 96s have the "new style" timing cog and crank sensor, so it was changed by then. That pic is of a 95 8V, so it could have been in 96, or it could have been hit or miss on the style in earlier years.
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here's mine from a 96 1.6 16 valve.