ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: 02CalTaco on October 26, 2011, 08:03:45 PM
-
So, I recently got a 86 tin top, unfortunately under the circumstances I don't feel entirely confident with my purchase. Anyway I'm thinking I'll try to sell it (not sure yet) but there are a few things I would like to take care of to make it more attractive.
First is a oil leak that I still need to track down, I was led to believe its coming from the oil pan gasket. It also has a small coolant leak at the top of the radiator, is there a common failure point on these radiators? Where is a good place to source an inexpensive replacement? Next on cold start up it doesn't kick up to a fast idle, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running and it's rough, smells rich but no smoke. Any ideas on what to check? It starts right up and idles fine when warm. I also notice while accelerating, at lower rpm I feel a slight sputter maybe hesitation, could this just need that tsb venturi? It has a shackle lift, I'm guessing 2", do stock length shocks work with this and what is a common tire size for this size lift? One more question (for now) , where could I find the piece that holds the rear side window on the the hinge, button looking piece?
Thanks.
-
I can only respond to the radiator issue with authority.
DO NOT REPLACE THAT RADIATOR!
Unless I am totally FOS, that is an all-metal radiator - the best kind to have!
All you need to do is take it to a radiator shop and have it disassembled, rodded out then re-soldered back together.
Around 100 bucks later you have a reliable, excellent-cooling radiator that is OEM.
I hope that this helps!
-
I can only respond to the radiator issue with authority.
DO NOT REPLACE THAT RADIATOR!
Unless I am totally FOS, that is an all-metal radiator - the best kind to have!
All you need to do is take it to a radiator shop and have it disassembled, rodded out then re-soldered back together.
Around 100 bucks later you have a reliable, excellent-cooling radiator that is OEM.
I hope that this helps!
Thanks for the help. I'm surprised your the only person on this forum that has any input.
I was already planning on taking the radiator out and having it checked out, guy at the shop said he would check it for free. Its the cost of the repair I'm worried about, I guess it will be cheaper than another used one or a new replacement.
Now if I can get some info on the other issues.
-
The Carb, if its a Hatachi OEM unit, when they get older with a lot of miles,
can cause all sorts of issues. Also, the ECM uses several sensors to RUN the carb,
If even one sensor is out, you will be "Chasing Ghosts", so take it to a Good Shop,
to see what needs to be replaced or repaired. Then go from there.
CAPT
-
Another thing you can do before piling on the money it, re-plumb the Hiatchi's vacuum lines. less than 15 bucks for 3 feet of vacuum line...
Check out this page for vacuum line info:
http://www.acksfaq.com/Samvacuumlines.htm (http://www.acksfaq.com/Samvacuumlines.htm)
I hope that this helps!
-
You can get a new radiator for $100, so be careful there. A new one is still better than a 25 year old one that may just got again.
Check the back of the block under the distributor for oil. A common leak and it will run down the block coming out all over.
-
On the last carbed samurai that I replaced the vacuum lines on, it took about 10 feet of vacuum line. If you are going to replace some of the vacuum lines, you might as well replace all of it.
-
I'll take a look at the vacuum lines, but wouldn't a bad vac line cause it to run rough all the time, not just on cold start up?
I havnt looked yet but after reading some posts it seems a common oil leak place is the crank seal.
I need to do a timing belt service soon and like to use factory brand parts (aisin, denso,ngk etc.). Where are some good sources for factory parts at good prices. Or timing belt kits that include quality parts that people have used and trust, at a good price.
Another thing ive found is that the fuel gauge is not accurate, sending unit? And the sensor light and 4wd lights don't come on when the key is turned on. Can this just be a bulb or not likely?
-
still no answers.....well i got some time today and started the oil clean up underneath,it will be a little while before I can find where its coming from but as of now I would say from the front. I was also able to see where the radiator leak is but wasnt able to make it down to the shop to see if its repairable.
It looks like the choke plate isnt closing but it moves freely with my finger. This is probably part of my cold start problem. I see a small amount of coolant coming from the piece that I think is supposed to close the choke. I noticed a couple other things that dont look right in the engine bay, ill try to post pics if I get a chance.
Im really starting to stress on this rig, Im not really in a position to take on an older vehicle like this, Im afraid its going to eat up too much time and money :'(. If I wasnt in cali it wouldnt be as bad, but I have to try and smog this thing still.
-
You can get a new radiator for $100, so be careful there. A new one is still better than a 25 year old one that may just got again.
The problem with a new radiator is that you can't get one that is all metal without paying a lot!
Plastic is a wonderful substance, but the first time your plastic top or bottom cap gets smacked by a flying stone or the adhesive job fails, you end up with a large $100 paperweight. I had a plastic radiator in a 4-door '93 sidekick fail on me when the adhesive seal on the top cap disintegrated.
My 23-year-old all-metal Samurai radiator is running perfectly after only one dissassembly and cleaning - which cost 75 bucks in 2003.
Naturally, you mileage may vary, some settling may occur during shipment, 0.9 percent APR available to well-qualified buyers...
-
What about a Spectra copper core radiator, it looks like its all metal and about $100?
http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/apps/ecat/mainfile.php?vehicle_id=1271102&model=SAMURAI&year=1986&make=SUZUKI&splash=false&action=search_by_vehicle&module=product_catalog (http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/apps/ecat/mainfile.php?vehicle_id=1271102&model=SAMURAI&year=1986&make=SUZUKI&splash=false&action=search_by_vehicle&module=product_catalog)
-
Your link didn't turn up anything that matched for me... Pesky Internets!
That said, if you can buy an all-metal replacement radiator for your tintop for aroound $100, I'd say "Go for it!"
Just letting you know that you DO have a workable alternative to a new radiator in your old radiator if your existing one isn't damaged in the heat exchanger area...
-
Your link didn't turn up anything that matched for me... Pesky Internets!
That said, if you can buy an all-metal replacement radiator for your tintop for aroound $100, I'd say "Go for it!"
Just letting you know that you DO have a workable alternative to a new radiator in your old radiator if your existing one isn't damaged in the heat exchanger area...
The screw is pointing to the area where it leaks, a hairline crack about 4" long. I'm not sure what would cause this.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y130/yamahablue/photo-24.jpg)
-
A Bad thermostat will do that, it's called oil canning like the oil cans that they used in the old days for oiling stuff where you push on the bottom of the can to get oil out, A bad Thermostat will do the same thing to your radiator as it opens and closes.
-
When you said the fuel gauge is not accurate, you mean it doesn't work or just not very well? A lot of issues on the Samurai electrical system can be traced down to bad grounds, since everything is ground driven. Make sure you have good grounding straps and check the grounds under the dash if you have random electrical issues.
For timing belts, I just go with Autozone specials and replace them every 60,000 miles. But if you want a good source for OEM parts, Hawk Suzuki and Low Range Off-Road are both good choices. Low Range has a great web sight and quality customer service, and Hawk Suzuki can get you just about any part and make sure it is right the first time.
Leaks from the front of the engine are usually the front main seal, leaks in the back are usually the distributor o-ring. Both relatively easy fixes.
As for the response time, give it a full day at least. It takes a while for people to get on the board and take a look depending on what real life is throwing around.
-
I was told that when the tank is full the gauge reads full but when it reads around half tank it's empty.
-
So, I took the radiator to the shop today and was told it was not repairable. I was told that a bad/going bad thermastat could have helped make this happen and after seeing that the cap was bad, blocking flow to the expansion tank, that could also have been a cause by allowing more pressure build up.
-
Sounds like a bad sender or bad grounding to the tank making the resistance off.
-
So, the radiator issue is delt with now the cold start problem, If im understanding right the thermowax unit is what closes the choke plate. Since the plate does not close when cold this meens the thermowax unit is bad or could it still be something else? As far as I can tell the thermowax unit is not replaceable so whats the fix?
-
its been years since I had a sammy with a carb but here is what I remember. First get a Factory service manual. you can down load them at some websites. I think suzukiinfo.com. The carb has three idle settings. First you need to set the warm slow idle-the normal idle. then you can set the other two. the cold idle the car must be cold. then the idle up idle for electrical loads. Plus A/C if you have that. then see it the choke is working. You have to have the stock choke in CA to pass smog.
Honestly, you will be money ahead to swap to a kick EFI. I usually find the whole set up here at zuki world for less than the cost of a rebuilt carb, and you probably will never touch it again.
-
I'm not sure about the thermowax unit being on a carb, I thought that was for the 1990 and newer f.i. rigs. on my Sammie with the stock carb I have allways had to warm it up, shut if off for five minutes or so to get everything under the hood warmed up and then it would run just fine, so maybe it does have some wax in there but I think that the carb could get heat from an exhaust passage if not electrical, I have not messed with mine in a long long time, I might have to see if I can get it running again has been sitting in my barn for a while.
-
I took this from a cold idle adjustment write up. Is the piece in the middle that the cooler lines go to the thermowax element? Does it control cold idle speed and close and open the choke plate? Also is easily removable?
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y130/yamahablue/carb2A.jpg)