ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: RampedRaptor on November 20, 2011, 09:36:10 PM
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88 sami
When I got sammy a month ago it would start and idle for a 20 seconds then die. After sitting for a few minutes it would start again and stall shortly after.
Replaced carb with a Harley cv 38mm carb Jets 200 and 45.
Replaced fuel filter plus added a inline fuel regulator set at 1.5
Will start with aid from starting fluid but stall as soon as you stop spraying.
I observe the clear fuel filter "I installled" fill with fuel but when I start to crank it over the fuel from the filter with completly get drained. Once I stop turning the engine the filter takes 30 or so seconds to slowly fill back up with fuel.
Is that normal? "I dont think it is" Any ideas on what the problem may be?
Thanks for all the help in advance. I will appreciate all ideas and info.
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Any ideas fellow forum members?
I blew out the gas lines with compressed air and they seemed to be free of blockages. Im puzzled at where to go from here.
Please help all info/help/ideas will aid in getting this issue solved.
Thanks RR
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Sounds like a weak fuel pump that's where I would start looking first
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take the gas cap off and see if it runs,make sure that you did not plug the gas tank vent off under the hood.
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Can the mechanical ones actually loose performance over time? I thought they were either good or completly bad no in the middle. Is the simpliest way to test a mechanical one with a in line pressure gauge or is there a better way?
Thanks for the reply I was getting worried I was on my own
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they go bad, pull the dip stick first and smell for gas on it and then unhook the fuel line before the reg. and put a hose on it and run it into a can and have a friend crank the engine over for you and see how it looks, the check valves do stick in them some times or the springs in them will rust out.
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mrfuelish: when I got the sammy the hose going to the tank was cut in half and no lid on. Instead a wash rag was jammed in the main tube to prevent garbage getting into the tank. I blew through both lines with the air compresser and no resistance was present.
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noob quesstion: Dipstick for the gas? and the hose before the regulator? I have the main gas line goin from the tank to the pump. The pump has 1 input, an output back to the tank I believe and one that goes to my carb. I have a auto zone regulator between carb and pump and a fuel filter between tank and pump on the main line.
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mrfuelish: when I got the sammy the hose going to the tank was cut in half and no lid on. Instead a wash rag was jammed in the main tube to prevent garbage getting into the tank. I blew through both lines with the air compresser and no resistance was present.
Ahh, the rest of the story!
The tank does need to have some venting! Otherwise, a vacuum will build inside the tank ...
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noob quesstion: Dipstick for the gas?
Pretty sure that was a suggestion to find out if the OIL dipstick had a gasoline smell ....
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ya the dip stick on the engine, when the diaphragm in the pump goes it will leak gas into the engine. the lines that come from the tank, the one with the fuel filter goes to the fuel pump, the other one should run up beside it and not hook to anything if your charcoal canister is missing, does this make sense?
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yep no smell of gas on dip stick just clean oil. As for tank Ive tried it with was rag in or completely out with no restrictions, no difference. I planned on getting a small aftermarket fuel cell anyways maybe its time. Isn't the stock mechanical pump suppose to push around 2psi? I dont have a gauge so ill have to go pick one up. Wish there was a way to get a small in linen electric fuel pump to rid myself of this mechanical mystery to me
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the stock pumps are good I would just replace it.
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ya the dip stick on the engine, when the diaphragm in the pump goes it will leak gas into the engine. the lines that come from the tank, the one with the fuel filter goes to the fuel pump, the other one should run up beside it and not hook to anything if your charcoal canister is missing, does this make sense?
Yep charcoal is still there, Is it necessary though?
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Ill have to see what one cost from the zone or something like that. Anything in replacing one? Its such a simple system I'm surprised I'm having such an issue with it. Besides running a aftermarket fuel cell with a new mechanical pump theres not much more it can be.
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Thanks for all the replies too. Im trying to respond as fast as possible so I dont waste ur time or expertise.
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if your not worried about smog then no you do not need it, just unhook the hose that goes back to the tank from it, do you still have the check valve in line back by the fuel filter?
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No smog concerns here. 100% trail rig. I dint see any type of valve. Just a fuel filter I installed. Does that line need plugged for vacuum purpose?
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OK there should be a small valve in line next to the filter that air might have damaged, I would drop the tank first and clean it out, there is no screen inside the tank, anything in there will plug the line.
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Previous owner must of got rid of valve. I'll drop tank tonight and clean out. Is there a main cover I pull "like on the trackers" to gain access to the inside of the tank?
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there is a round sending unit on top wit about six screws just pull it out and look at the pick up tube to make sure it is not rusted out or blocked, I add more hose on top of the tank for the return line to make it easy for me to get back in by myself, you night have to get help going back in.
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Will see what I can do and Ill get back to you later tonight Back to replacing the mechanical fuel pump. Its held in by two bolts right? Once I pull the bolts with it slide straight out then install the same way?
thanks for the help
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the pump could be good, run a line from the input to a gas can and try it.
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it has been awhile but yes easy, you might have to bump the engine a little to make it easy er to go back in.
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It does spray some but without a gauge I'm not sure what is adequate.
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It might be enough, I would look at the tank if it had a rag in it. but process of elimination works good too.
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Heading out know to do tank. Thanks again for ur time all your help. Ill update once I get the tank removed and cleaned out.
Thanks
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10-4
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Removed tank and cleaned inside out. Little rust flakes but nothing that looks like it would clog the hoses. "much cleaner then I expected on the inside" I poured gas down tube to make sure no debris was in it. I can hook it back up now but i dint expect a change
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ya but you have to know these things look like Tonka trucks to little kids and You would not believe the toys I have Found in some of the tanks.
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I believe you. Instead of installing the old tank I'm going to go get 5 feet of rubber fuel line. Attach it to the fuel pump and run the other end of the hose in a 5 gallon gas can rt in front of me. Beg the fiancee to turn the engine over so I can observe if its pumping at a reasonable rate and see how much is entering the carb.
I had originally asked about the fuel filter being drained and slowly filling back up over a minute or so while not cranking the engine.
Once the fuel system is primed the filter should never be dry of fuel correct?
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correct, that is why they have a check Valve between the gas tank and the fuel filter If I remember correctly. but one should be there.
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OK Ill get the hose tomorrow to narrow down some of the variables. I'll be sure to comment back with what i find and any additional questions.
Thanks again
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You may have an air leak some where between the tank and the pump, which would give an air lock.